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THE 



PICTTJEESQUE TOURIST; 





BEING 





\ GUIDE 

THROUGH THE 

iNORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES 



AND 



CANADA: 

GIVING AN ACCURATE DESCRIPTION OF CITIES AND 
VILLAGES, CELEBRATED PLACES 

OF RESORT, ETC. 
WITH MAPS AND ^LUSTRATIONS. 



EDITED BY 0. L. HOLLEY. 



NEW-YORK : 
PUBLISHED EY J. DISTURNELL, 

NO. 102 BROADWAY. 

1844, 



•i^--'-. ;v 






Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1844./ 
" '. •* I . * -^z Joar CisTURNELL; in the Clerk's Office of the Dislrici 
'^ «'Jv .<>0«rt for, tbe Southeru District of New- York. 

ccc««««t ' 



ALBANY: PRINTED BY C VAN BENTHVYSEN A.VB CO- 



^ 



^1^ 



TO THE READER- 

The arrangement of the Picturesque Toueist, will 
be found to differ, in some respects^ from works of the 
same class. 

The general object of this book is to furnish a conve- 
nient and faithful guide for strangers^ whether travelling 
on business, or for pleasure, or health, through the North, 
ern and Eastern sections of the United States, and the 
Canadas. 

The City of New- York, as being the principal com- 
mercial emporium of the country, and the chief centre of 
resort, in the first instance, for distant travellers, whether 
native or foreign, is chosen as the point from which the 
Tourist is supposed to commence his excursion. Starting 
thence, this Guide will conduct him along the principal 
lines of travel North, West, and East. Northward he 
will proceed up the Hudson river, through the flourishing 
cities at the head of navigation, to the famous Springs at 
Ballston and Saratoga — thence to Lake George, and by 
Che way of Lake Champlain into Canada. Westward 
through the rich midland and western counties of the 



TO THE READER. 

State of New- York, to Niagara Falls, and Buffalo — thence 
to Chicago. Northerly through Canada, passing over 
Lake Ontario and down the St. Lawrence to Montreal, 
Quebec, and the Saguenay river. Eastward through the 
states of New England ; noticing, on each route, the pla- 
ces and scenery most worthy of the attention of the Tour- 
ist, either for memorable events, or for local attractions, 
and aiming, in the accounts of them, more at simple ac- 
curacy, than at embellished description. Such are the 
scope and design of this Traveller's Guide. 

0. L. H. 

Albany, June, 1844. 



CONTENTS. 



Description of the City and Island of New- York. 

Page. 

Situation and Extent, , ^ 

Discovery and Settlement, 10 

Streets and AvenueSj 13 

Parks and Public Squares, , . . . . 15 

Public Buildings, 16 

Churches, 19' 

Literary and Scientific Institutions, 20 

Benevolent Institutions, - 23 

Places of Amusement, 23 

Hotels and Public Houses, 25 

Hackney Coaches, Cabs and Omnibusses, 27 

Markets, 27 

Trade and Commerce, 28 

Buildings in 1840, 28 

Croton Aqueduct, • ■ ■ • 29 

Fire Department — City Courts, 33 

City Police — Ferries, ' 34 

Steamboats and Packets, 35 

Railroads, 35 

Stages. 36 

Fashionable Places of Resort in the Vicinity N. York, 37 

Eastern Lines of Travel through Long Island Sound, 42 

Housatonic Route betvreen New-York and Albany^ 43 

Hudson River and its Vicinity. 

Jersey City — Hoboken, 45 

Weehawken — Bloomingdale — Manhattanville, 46 

Fort Washington — Fort Lee — Palisades, 47 

Yonkers — Hastings — Dobb's Ferry, 48 

Piermont — Tappan, . . ., 49 

Tappan Bay — Irving — Tarrytov^^n — Nyack, 50 

Rockland Lake — Si«g Sing,. 51 



IV COKTEIVTS. 

Page. 

City of Rochester, 16^ 

Avon Springs, 16S 

Batavia — Attica, 170 

Brockport — Holley — Albion — Ridge Road, 171 

Knowlesville — Medina — Gasport — Lockport, 172 

Tonawanda — Black Rock, 173 

Niagara Falls, 174 

Levviston — Fort Niagara, 177 

City of Buffalo, 178 

Steamboat Lines leaving Buffalo, 1^1 

Table of Distances from Buffalo to Chicago, : 182 

A trip from Buffalo to Chicago — Lake Erie, 184 

Dunkirk — 'Barcelona — Erie — Conneaut, 186 

Ashtabula — Fairport — Cleveland — Sandusky, 187 

Toledo — Perrysburg, 18S 

Monroe — Amherstburgh — Detroit, . . » = 189 

Lake St. Clair — Fort ^Gratiot — Lake Huron, 190 

Point aux Barques — Presque Isle— Mackinac, 191 

Lake Michigan — Mihvaukie — Racine — Chicago,... 192 

Michigan City— St. Joseph— Green Bay, 193 

Sault de St. Marie, 194 

Lake Superior, 195 

Pictured Rocks, • 196 

First Vessel vi^hich Navigated the Western Lakes, ... 1 97 

Statistics of Steamboats, 202 

Tour Through Canada. 

Fort Erie— Waterloo— Grand Island, 211 

Navy Island — Chippewa, 212 

Falls of Niagara — Drummondsville, 213 

Queenston, 214 

Niagara, 215 

Fort George— Welland Canal, 216 

Karailton — 'Dundas, 217 

City of Toronto, 218 

Steamboat Lines leaving Toronto, 219 

Port Hope— Cobourg, 221 

City of Kingston, 222 

Rideau Canal, 223 

Table of Distances betvi'een Kingston and Montreal, 226 

Thousand Islands, » 226 

Gananoqui — Well's Island, , 227 

Brockville — Morristown — PrescG'tt, 228 



CO/NTENTS. V 

Page. 

Ogdensburgh, 229 

Galop Rapids — Dickinson's Landing — Cornwall — St. 

Kegis, 230 

Lake St. Francis — Coteau du Lac, Cedar and Cas- 
cade RapidS; 231 

Beauharnois Canal — Canals in Canada, 232 

City of Montreal, 234 

Excursion to Caledonia Springs, &c., 238 

Lachine — St. Anne's, 238 

Lake of the Two Mountains — Carillon — Point For- 
tune, 239 

Caledonia Springs, 240 

Georgian Springs — By town, 242 

Steamboat Route from Montreal to Quebec, 243 

Rapids of St. Mary — Varennes — William Henry, . . • 244 

Lake St. Peter, 245 

Port St. Francis — Three Rivers — Richelieu Rapids, 246 

City of Quebec, 247 

Excursions in the Vicinity of Quebec, 259 

Falls of Montmorenci 260 

Chaudiere Falls — Cape Rouge, 261 

St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers, 262 

Island of Orleans, 263 

Madam Island — St. Thomas — Isle aux Coudi'es,. • ■ • 264 

Goose Island — St. Anne — •Kamouraski, 265 

River Du Loup — Red Island — Tadousac, 266 

Saguenay River, 269 

T^te du Boule, 271 

St. Louis Island — Eternity Point — Cape Trinity,. . . 272 

Statue Point — Tableau — Ha-Ha Bay, 273 

Chicoutimi, 274 

Value of Colonial Moneys, 275 

Eastern Tour. 

Table of Distances from Burlington to Concord,. . . 277 

Lake Champlain, 278 

List of Steamboats built on Lake Champlain, 280 

Montpelier, 280 

Eastern Lines of Travel from Whitehall and Albany, 281 

New Lebanan S.prins;s — Shaker Settlement, 282 

Pittsfield—Dalton— Washington— Becket, 283 

Chester— Westfield— Springfield, 284 

Northampton — Mount Tom — Hadley, 286 



VI CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Worcester, 287 

City of Boston, 288 

Vicinity of Boston — Dorchester, &c., 296 

Brookline — Brighton — Cambridge, 297 

Mount Auburn — Charlestown, 298 

Breed's Hill— Battle of Bunker Hill, 299 

Chelsea— Boston Harbor, c 302 

Nahant, 303 

Railroad Route from Boston to Concord, 304 

City of Lowell, 305 

Nashua — Concord, 308 

White Mountains, 309 

Routes between Boston and Portland, 314 

Railroad and Steamboat Routes, 315 

Lynn — Salem, , 316 

Beverly— Ipswich — Newburyport — Portsmouth, . . . 318 

South Berwick, 319 

Wells — Kennebunk — Saco — Portland, 320 

Lines of Travel from Portland, 322 

Augusta- — 'Bangor, 324 

Lines of Travel between Boston and New- York,. . 325 

Providence — Newport, 326 

Stonington, 327 

Norwich — New London, 328 

City of Hartford, 329 

City of New Haven, 331 

Railroads i& New-England, 334 



TABLE OF ROUTES OP TRAVEL, 

THROUGH THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES, ANTi 
CAJTADA — GIVING- THE DISTANCE AND THE USUAL 
TIME. 



RotJtEs. Miles. Hours. 

1. New-York to Philadelphia, uta New- Jefsey > 

Railroad, 86 6 

2. New-York to Baltimore, rt'ct Railroad routes 182 13 

3. New- York to Washington, t;ta " " 220 16 

4. New- York to Boston, via Stonington and 

Providence Railroad, 224 14 :| 

5. New- York to Boston, via Norwich and 

Worcester Railroad, .*.... 237 15 

6. New- York to Springfield, Mass., via New- 

Haven and Hartfoifd Railroad, 143 

7. New- York td Albany, ijitiHousatonic Rail- 

road, 200 14 

8. New- York to Albany, via Piermont, by 

Steamboat, Railroad and Stage, . 166 28 

9. New- York to Albany, east side Hudson 

River, by Stage, » 154 ^S 

10. New- York to Albany, by Steamboat Route, 145 10 

11. New-York to Dunkirk, via line of New- 

York and Erie Railroad, 475 

12. Newburgh to Barcelona, on Lake Erie, by 

Stage, .387 

13. Albany to Boston, via Railroad Route, .. . 200 12 

14. Boston to Portland, via Eastern Railroad, . 105 5| 

15. Portland to Bangor, by Stage, 129 20 

16 » Portland to Quebec, via Augusta and Nor- 

ridgewoek, by Stage, 300 



Vlll TABLE OF ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 

Routes. Miles. Hour*. 

17. Boston to Bangor, by Steamboat Route, .. 245 18 

18. Boston to Montreal, via Concord and Bur- 

lington, Vt., by Railroad, Stage and 
Steamboat, 317 

19. Albany to Montreal, via Lake Champlain, 

by Stage, Steamboat and Railroad, .... 250 36 

20. Montreal to Quebec, by Steamboat, 180 12 

21. Albany to Buffalo, by Railroad Route, ... 325 28 

22. Albany to Buffalo, via Erie Canal, 364 96 

23. Schenectady to Buffalo, by Canal Packet, . 334 72 

24. Utica to Binghamton, by Stage, 94 16 

25. Utica to Ogdensburgh, by Stage, 125 24 

26. Ogdensburgh to Plattsburgh, by Stage, 126 24 

27. Syracuse to Niagara-Falls, via Oswego, 

by Canal Packet, Steamboat & Railroad, 187 20 

28. Rochester to Niagura-Fails, via Lockport, 80 12 

29. Rochester to Clean, by Stage, 98 18 

30. Rochester to Buffalo, by Railroad Route,. . 74 6 

31. Rochester to Buffalo, by Erie Canal. 95 19 

32. Buffalo to Kingston, Canada, via Lewis- 

ton, by Railroad and Steamboat, 222 24 

33. Kingston to Montreal, via St. Lawrence 

River, 212 24 

34. Lewiston to Detroit, through Canada, by 

Stage, 263 72 

35. Buffalo to Detroit, by Steamboat, - 372 30 

36. Buffalo .to Chicago, via Detroit and St. Jo- 

seph, by Steamboat, Railroad and Stage, 640 60 
■.?7. Buffalo to Chicago, -yia Lakes Erie, Huron 

and Michigan, Steamboat Route, 1047 72 



DESCRIPTION 

OF THE 

CITY AND ISLAND OF NEW-YORK. 

SITUATION AND EXTENT. 

The City of New- York stands on an Island of the 
same name ; in n. lat. 40 deg;. 42 min. 43 sec. ; in e. 
LON. from the Washington meridian 3 deg. 1 min. 13 sec, 
and w€st from Greenwich, England, 78 deg. 59 min. 
46 sec. Its distance from Washington is 220 miles, by 
one continuous line of railroads. 

The Island is 13| miles long, north and south, with an 
average width of 1 ^ miles, the greatest width being 2^ 
miles. On its east side it is separated from Long Island 
by a continuation of Long Island Sound called East River, 
and on the west by the Hudson River from New-Jersey. 
The two rivers unite at the southern point of the Island, 
and form the spacious Bay of New- York, the distance 
across which, and through the '' Narrows" to the Atlan- 
tic ocean, is 16 miles, with a channel sufficient for the 
largest ships. East River connects with Long Island 
Sound through the formidable strait, called by the Dutch, 
^' Helle-Gat." On the north, the Island is separated from 
the main land by the Harlem River, which opens into East 
River, and by the Spuyten Duyvel Creek opening into the 
Hudson, forming a continuous but winding water-way 8 
miles long. The southern termination of the island and 
city is a spacious esplanade called the "Battery," once 
fortified, but long since dismantled ; planted with trees 
and laid out with public walks. A fine view from the 
Battery forms the frontispiece of this book. 

B 



10 DESCRIPTION OF 

In the Bay, fronting the Battery, at the distance of lit- 
tle more than half a mile, and separated from Long Is- 
land by the Butter-milk channel, is Governor's Island ; 
while toward the Jersey shore and looking up the Hud- 
son, are Bedlow's and Ellis's Islands. These all were 
long since ceded to the United States, (reserving the ju- 
risdiction of the state and city for the service of legal pro- 
cess,) and are strongly fortified. 

In the East River, and extending in succession towards 
Hell-Gate, areBlackwell's, Great-Barn, and Randall's Is- 
lands, all belonging to the city of New- York ; and on the 
first named are the City Penitentary and Lunatic Asylum. 

DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 

The Island of New-York was discovered in 1609, by 
Henry Hudson, who was then sailing in the service of 
the Dutch. It was formerly called Manhattan, from the 
native inhabitants — a name, says Schoolcraft, descriptive 
of the singular whirlpool of " Helle-Gat," the most ex- 
pressive feature in the neighborhood, and which may be 
translated, " the people of the whirlpool." 

The first settlement of white men on this Island was 
made by the Dutch in 1613, who then laid the foundation 
of the city, under the name of New- Amsterdam, which 
it retained till its conquest in 1664, by the English, who 
changed the name to New- York. Being reconquered in 
1673, by the Dutch, they gave it the name of New- 
Orange ; but on being again surrendered to the English by 
treaty, in 1674, the name of New- York was restored, 
and has been retained ever since. 

The municipal authority of New- Amsterdam was vested 
in two Burgomasters, five assistants called Schepens, and 
a Schout or Sheriff. The English changed the city go- 
vernment to its present form, under a charter granted in 
1665, Nicolls being governor of the province. In 1686. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 11 

under Gov. Dongan, the charter was enlarged, and again, 
in 1730, under Gov. Montgomerie. Under these charters, 
the mayor was appointed by the governor, and the alder- 
men and assistants were elective. The charter of 1730, 
as amended by acts of the state legislature, is still in force. 

From 1674 to 1783, the city and surrounding country 
were in possession of the English, under the administra- 
tion of governors appointed by the British crown. Dur- 
ing that period the city increased slowly in numbers, hav- 
ing, in 1750, only about 10,000 inhabitants. When the 
British evacuated the city, November 25, 1783, it con- 
tained about 24,000 inhabitants ; which, in 1790, had in- 
creased to 33,131— in 1800, to 60,489— in 1810, to 96,373 
—in 1820, to 123,706— in 1830, to 202,089, and in 1840, 
to 312,710 ; being at the present time by far the most 
populous and important city on the continent of America. 

The city was originally built up without any regular 
plan, and its streets were for the most part narrow and 
crooked. As late as 1783, Chambers-street was the limit 
of the city on the north, and Catharine-street on the east 
towards Corlear's Hook. But the anticipated growth of 
the city, soon after the close of the revolutionary war, 
and especially on the adoption of the present Federal Con- 
stitntion, led to great public improvements, which were 
conducted in a systematic manner, being greatly facilitat- 
ed by the extraordinary powers exercised by the corporate 
authorities for the assessment of private property. 

Wide and commodious avenues and streets have thus 
taken the place of the narrow and irregular thoroughfares 
of the olden times. Hills have been levelled, rough 
places made smooth, and bogs and marshes filled up, until 
the city now presents a uniform grade throughout. It 
extends about three miles from the Battery towards the 
north, and across the Island from river to river. The 



12 



DESCRIPTION OF 



style of building has improved from time to time, and 
within the last ten years has reached a high degree of ele- 
gance and convenience. The upper or north part of the 
city has been laid out into spacious streets, with wide and 
convenient sidewalks, formed of large flag-stones ; and 
the houses, built of brick in uniform blocks, with marble 
steps, and highly ornamented balustrades of cast-iron in 
front, present an imposing and agreeable aspect. This is 
now the fashionable quarter, the lower part of the city 
being comparatively deserted even by old residents, whose 
former mansions are converted into boarding houses, or 
have given place to shops or warehouses. 

The City is now divided into 17 Wards; each Ward elect- 
ing one Alderman, one Assistant Alderman, two Assessors, 
one Collector, &c. The following table shows the com- 
parative population of the Wards at different periods : — 



WARDS. 


1825. 


1830. 


1835. 


1840. 


First, 

Second, 

Third, 

Fourth, 

Fifth, 

Sixth, 

Seventh, 

Eighth, 

Ninth, 

Tenth, 

Eleventh, .... 

Twelfth, 

Thirteenth,*.. 
Fourteenth,* . 
Fifteenth,t'. . . 
Sixteenth,t . . . 
Seventeenth, § 


9,929 

9,315 

10,201 

12,210 

15,093 

20,061 

14,192 

24,285 

10,956 

23,932 

7,344 

7,938 


11,331 
8,203 
9,599 
12,705 
17,722 
13,570 
15,873 
20,729 
22,810 
16,438 
14,915 
11,808 
12,598 
14,288 


10,380 
7,549 
10,884 
15,439 
18,495 
36,827 
21,481 
28,570 
20,618 
20,926 
26,845 
24,437 
17,130 
17,306 
13,202 


10,629 
6,394 
11,581 
15,770 
19,159 
17,198 
22,982 
29,073 
24,795 
29,026 
17,052 
11,652 
18,571 
20,235 
17,755 
22,273 
18,619 


Total,.... 


166,086 


202,589 


270,089 


312,710 



* These two Wards were constituted in 1826, the 13th being taken 
from the lOlh, and the Wh from the 6th and Sth Wards, 
t Taken from the 9th Ward, 1832. 
J Taken from the 12th or out-ward, 1836. 
§ Taken from the 11th Ward, 1837. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 13 

STREETS. 

The principal street is Broadway, extending in a 
northerly direction from the Battery a distance of three 
miles along the centre of the city, and intersected at right 
angles by streets that slope gradually to each river. It is 
80 feet wide, with spacious side- walks that afford a fa» 
vorite promenade in fine weather for the gay and fashiona- 
ble. Here are to be found the most extensive hotels, dry 
goods stores, fancy shops, confectionaries j jewellers, 
booksellers, grocers, tailors, milliners, and in general all 
the various establishments that furnish the elegancies and 
luxuries of life in the greatest perfection. 

The Bowery is about two-thirds the length of Broad- 
way, but is a much wider street. The name is derived 
from the Dutch bouwery, signifying a farm, and the street 
was originally called Bowery- lane, from itsleading through 
the public farms. It runs nearly parallel with Broadway, 
on the east, and being chiefly a business street, has a 
lively and animated appearance. It is the great thorough- 
fare for country wagons and market people from West- 
chester county, with which it communicates by the Har- 
lem Railroad and Third Avenue. 

Chatham- STREET, (named from the Earl of Chatham,) 
connects the Bowery with Broadway and Nassau-street : 
an immense population pours through it at all times from 
the eastern part of the city, and Broadway, below its junc- 
tion with this street, is often so thronged as to render it 
hazardous, if not impracticable, for foot passengers to 
cross it. 

East Broadway is a spacious and elegant street on 
the east side of the town, and parallel with it are Henry, 
Madison and Monroe-streets, all handsomely built up 
with private residences, in the neighborhood of East Ri- 



'14 DESCRIPTION OP 

ver. The principal streets crossing Broadway and termi- 
nating at East River, are Grand, Broome, Houstoun, 
Fourth and Eighth-streets. 

On the west side, Greenwich and Hudson-streets 
are the most spacious and fashionable : they run parallel 
to the Hudson, and are about two miles and a half in 
length. Washington and West-streets are of the 
same length, and have a parallel coursej the latter ex- 
tends along the river. 

Between the lower part of Broadway and East River 
are Nassau, William, Pearl, Water, Front and South- 
streets, intersected by Fulton-street, Maiden-Lane, Li- 
berty, Cedar, Pine, Wall and Broad-streets, all of which 
are occupied with the great commercial interests of the 
city. A considerable part of this quarter of the city was 
destroyed by the great fire of December, 1835, but it has 
since been entirely rebuilt in a much superior style. 

Wall-street contains the Merchant's Exchange, Cus- 
tom House, and numerous other splendid edifices, recent- 
ly built, occupied by insurance and banking companies. 

The Avenues (so called) are sixteen in number and 
extend from the upper parts of the city to Harlem river ; 
they are in general 100 feet wide, as laid out, but are not 
lall graded. They are crossed by streets running from ri- 
ver to river, some of which are of equal width with the 
Avenues, The Third Avenue leads to Harlem bridge, 
and being m.acadamized throughout its whole extent, 
(about 7 miles) affords a pleasant drive from the city. 
The Harlem Railroad is laid upon the Fcxtrth Ave- 
nue. The Bloomingdale road, (a continuation of Broad- 
way,) is another favorite route for drives in pleasant 
weather, leading to the villages of Bloomingdale and 
^lanhattanville, along the bank of the Hudson. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 15 

PARKS AND PUBLIC SQUARES. 

Of the public squares the Battery is the principal. 
It affords a fine view of the bay and harbor, and of the 
adjacent islands and opposite shores. It contains about 
eleven acres of ground, laid out in gravel walks and or- 
namented with trees and shrubbery. As a public pro- 
menade it is, probably, not surpassed in the beauty of 
its situation and general attractions by any other in the 
world. A castle, built on a mole in the harbor, is connect- 
ed with the grounds by a bridge, and is now used as a 
place of amusement, and for the exhibition of fire works. 

The Park is a triansrular area of about ten acres, 
handsomely disposed into grass-plots and walks, and con- 
tains the City Hall with other public buildings. It is 
an ornament to the city, and is much thronged on gala 
days ; especially on the anniversary of American Inde- 
pendence, and other public occcasions. The Fountain 
which now adorns this Park is greatly admired. 

Washington Square, of about the same extent as 
the Park, is in the upper part of the city, between Fourth- 
street and Waverley Place. The University and a new 
Dutch church in the Gothic style, front on this square. 

Tompkins Square, on the east of the Bowery, be- 
tween Seventh and Tenth-streets, is handsomely laid out, 
and afifords a fine view of East River and the opposite 
shore of Long Island. It is a place of great resort dur- 
ing the warm season, especially on Sundays, and is a 
favorite parade ground for the military corps of the city. 
Stages are constantly running between this square and the 
Battery, and improvements are rapidly going forward in 
its vicinity. 

Union Place, at the common termination of the 
Bowery, Broadway and University Place, between Four- 
teenth and Seventeenth-streets, is laid out in a tasteful 



16 DESCRIPTION OP 

manner and surrounded by an elegant paling of cast iron. 
Madison, Hamilton, and Stuyvesant squares are not yet 
open to the public. 

The Bowling Green is a small enclosure at the foot 
of Broadway, near the Battery. It is ornamented with 
a beautiful Fountain — a view of which embellishes this 
work as a vignette. 

Hudson Square or St. John's Park, in the central 
part of the city, between Hudson and Varick- streets, be- 
longs to Trinity church, and is open only to privileged 
persons. It is a beautiful green of about four acres, filled 
with shrubs and flowers, enclosed by a high iron paling. 
St. John's church, (a chapel of Trinity,) with its lofty 
spire, 240 feet high, fronts on the east side of this square, 
and adds to the beauty of the situation. 

PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 

The public buildings are numerous, and many of them 
are justly admired for their architectural beauty and sub- 
stantial character. The new Merchants' Exchange, 
erected on the site of the former, which was destroyed by 
the great fire, is the largest and most costly edifice in the 
city. The material of which it is built, is the dark blue 
Quincy granite, {sienite •) no wood is used in any part 
of the building ; the whole is solid masonry. It occupies 
an entire block of ground fronting on Wall-V*reet, being 
about 200 feet in length by 171, and 144 feet in depth. It 
is 77 feet high to the top of the cornice, and 124 feet from 
the foundation to the apex of the dome. In front is a re- 
cessed portico with eighteen massive columns of granite, 
beautifully wrought in the Ionic style. These columns 
are 38 feet in height, and 4 feet, 4 inches in diame- 
ter, each weighing thirty- three tons. They are said to be 
the largest monoliths in the world, excepting only the co- 



NEW-YORK CITY. 17 

lumns of a church at St. Petersburgh. The exchange 
room or rotunda is in the centre of the building, 100 feet 
in diameter, and 90 feet in height to the top of the dome. 
The dome is solid masonry, 80 feet in diameter, sup° 
ported in part by eight Corinthian columns of beautiful 
Italian marble. These are 41 feet in height, and 4 feet 
8 inches in diameter. A more magnificent apartment is 
seldom seen. The effect on the beholder when first seen, 
is grand and sublime. The entire cost of the building, 
including the ground, is stated at $1,800,000 ; the origi- 
nal estimate was one-third of that sum. It was erected 
by a company called the Merchants' Exchange Company, 
incorporated in 1823, with a capital of one million. 

The new Custom House, is another recent addition to 
the public edifices of the city. It is modelled after the 
Parthenon at Athens, and is nearly of the same size as 
that celebrated temple. The external walls and the roof 
are of white mai-ble, and the entire building is finished 
without wood, so as to be completely fire proof. It is 
200 feet long by 90 wide, and about 80 feet in height.* 

It has two fronts ; the principal one on Wall street, at 
the head of Broad-street, and the other on Pine street ; 
each containing a row of finely wrought marble columns 
32 feet high, of the Doric order. The business hall oc- 
cupies the centre of the building ; it is a rotunda sur- 
mounted by a dome, supported by sixteen beautiful Co- 
rinthian columns 30 feet high. The diameter of this room 
is 80 feet. The architectural ornaments of the interior 
are numerous, beautifully designed, and exquisitely finish- 
ed. This superb edifice was commenced in May, 1834, 
and finished in May, 1841. The cost, ground inclusive, 
was $1,175,000— building alone, $950,000. 

• The dimensions of the Parthenon were 217 feet long, 98 broad and 
65 high. 



18 DESCRIPTION OF 

The Hall of Justice, built in the Egyptian style, is 
a remarkable structui'e. It fronts on Centre- street, and 
occupies a block of ground 253 feet long by 200 wide, in- 
cluding, however, in this space a prison, which is detached 
from the main building. Its massive Theban columns 
with their gigantic palm-leaved capitals, and its cornices, 
ornamented with winged globes encircled by serpents, 
give a singular effect to the building. The criminal courts 
of the city and the city prison are to be found in this 
gloomy pile, which has gained the sobriquet of the 
'' Egyptian Tombs." The building was finishedin 1838, 
being constructed of light colored granite. 

The New-York University, on Washington Square^ 
is built in the Gothic style, and has a commanding ap- 
pearance. It is 180 feet long by 100 wide. The front is 
composed of a centre building with wings flanked by 
towers, one on each of the four corners of the edifice. 
The centre rises above the wings, and contains in front a 
large Gothic window of stained glass, 50 feet high by 24 
wide. This part of the building contains the Chapel, 
which is much admired for its architectural beauty. Its 
lofty ceiling adorned with Gothic tracery, and the richly 
carved columns and pannelings of oak, give it an antique 
air, and produce a striking effect. The wings of the edi- 
fice are four stories high, and the towers five : the last 
are surmounted by embattled parapets. The main en- 
trance is under the great central window, through a deep 
portal of richly moulded stone, and a door of massive 
oak. This building is of recent date, having been com- 
pleted in 1836. 

Among the older public edifices, the City Hall, is 
pre-eminent. It is situated in the Park, and consists of 
a centre building with wings, principally of the Ionic and 
Corinthian orders. The entire front is 216 feet long, by 



JfEW-YORK CITY. 19 

105 deep ; the front and ends are built of white marble, 
and the rear of free stone. It is chiefly occupied by the 
civil courts, and the common council, both branches of 
the latter and the mayor having their respective apart- 
ments. The United States Courts are held in a large 
brick building in the rear of the City Hall, originally 
built and occupied as an Alms-House. 

At Bellevue, on East River, 2| miles from the City 
Hall, are several public buildings, as the new Alms- 
house, a large stone edifice, well adapted to the purposes 
for which it is used ; a Hospital connected with it for the 
sick and insane poor ; the House of Refuge for juvenile 
delinquents ; and a Penitentiary for the punishment of fe- 
male convicts. An Asylum for the insane poor of the 
city has been recently erected on Blackwell's Island, 
Vv'here there is also a Prison for male convicts. Opposite 
Blackwell's Island are the Long Island Farms, where are 
schools and nurseries for pauper children, liberally sus- 
tained in connection with the Aims-House. 

CHURCHES. 

The number of Churches is about one hundred and 
sixty, as follows : Presbyterian, thirty- seven • Episcopa- 
lian, twenty-six ; Methodist, twenty-three ; Baptist, six- 
teen ; Dutch Reformed, thirteen ; Roman Catholic, nine ; 
African, ten ,• German Lutheran and Reformed, six ; Jews' 
Synagogues, four ; Quakers or Friends, four ; Universa- 
lists, four ; Unitarians, two ; and others, seven. 

Many of the Churches are handsomely built ; of these 
are the new Dutch Reformed Churches on Washington 
Square and La Fayette Place ; the Church cf the Meg- 
siah, (Unitarian;) St. Peters, (Roman Catholic ;) French 
Protestant du St. Esprit ; the Church of the Ascension, 
St. Paul's, and St. Peter's, (Episcopalian ;) Presbyterian 



20 DESCRIPTION OF 

Churches on Duane, Grand and Mercer- streets ; First 
Baptist Church on Broome-street, &c. 

The Church now building on the site of old Trinity, at 
the head of Wall- street, will far surpass all others in the 
city in its extent and architectural splendor ; its length is 
189 feet by 84 in breadth ; height 64 ; height of tower 
and spire, 264 feet. 

There are congregations of French, Germans, and 
Welch, who have religious services conducted in their re- 
spective languages. 

LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. 

Columbia College the oldest literary institution in 
the city, was founded in 1754, and was originally called 
King's College. It is situated on a beautiful square ad- 
joining Park Place, west of the City Hall, where the col- 
lege buildings were erected in 1760. For a considerable 
period there were no other buildings of any kind in the 
immediate neighborhood of the college, which thus en- 
joyed an extensive and unobstructed view of the opposite 
shore and country of New-Jersey, Long Island, Staten 
Island, and New- York Bay. &c. This college has always 
sustained a high character as a seminary of learning, 
having from the beginning enjoyed the services of emi- 
nent scholars in the various departments of instruction. 

The University or the city of New- York, is a 
youthful institution; it was chartered in 1831, and is rapid- 
ly increasing in importance and favor. Connected with 
it is a Medical School of high reputation. Its location 
is unrivalled, fronting Washington Park on the west, 
which is ornamented with shade trees and laid out with 
gravelled walks. 

The General Theological Seminary of the 
Episcopal Church, is situated on Twentieth-street, cor- 
ner of the Ninth Avenue, near the Hudson, 2 miles north 



NEW-YORK CITY. 21 

from the City Hall, a part of the city known as Chelsea. 
There are two handsome buildings of stone for the ac- 
commodation of the professors and students ; the board 
of trustees consists of all the bishops, and one other trus- 
tee from each diocese in the United States. The institu- 
fion is well endowed, and in a flourishing condition. 

The New- York Theological Seminary near the 
University, is under the direction of the Presbyterian 
church, although open to all christian denominations. 
Its library is of great value, consisting of 16,000 volumes, 
formerly the property of a German clergyman, Rev. 
Leander Van Ess, after whose decease it was purchased. 

Of the literary associations, the oldest is the New- 
York Society Library, founded in 1754, which occu- 
pies a new and beautiful building recently erected on 
Broadway, corner of Leonard-street. The library is 
the largest and most valuable in the state, and is con- 
stantly increasing ; it now consists of nearly 40,000 vo- 
lumes. An extensive reading room is connected with it, 
in some respects the best in the city. The institution is 
governed by a board of twelve trustees, who are annual- 
ly elected by the shareholders. 

The New-York Historical Society, formed in 1804, 
at present occupies a suite of rooms in the University, 
where its library, comprising about 12,000 volumes, is 
situated. It has published several volumes of historical 
collections, and ranks among the most active and distin- 
guished literary associations in this country. 

The Lyceum or Natural History, established in 
1818, has done much for the promotion of natural science 
in this country. The building in which its library and 
cabinet are deposited, is on Broadway, near Prince- 
street ; it was erected at the expense of the Lyceum. 



22 DESCRIPTION OF 

The Mercantile Library Association is formed 
chiefly of merchants' clerks. Its library consists of about 
22,000 volumes, connected with which there is an excel- 
lent reading room. The number of members in 1840, 
was over 5,000. An annual course of lectures is de- 
livered before this association at Clinton Hall, where 
the library is also kept. 

The Apprentices' Library in Crosby-street, contains 
about 12,000 volumes. It was established in 1820, by 
the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen. 

The American Institute for the encouragement of 
American industry, formed in 1828, has a valuable li- 
brary of about 5,000 volumes, situated in the spacious 
building in the rear of the City HaU. Under the direc- 
tion of this Institute annual fairs are held in the city at 
Niblo's Garden, for the exhibition of American manu- 
factures in every department of human industry. 

The Mechanics' Institute occupies rooms in the 
basement of the City Hall, where it has a library and 
reading room ; a course of lectures is also given under its 
auspices every winter. 

The National Academy or Design, established in 
1826, for the encouragement of the fine arts, occupies 
rooms in the Society Library's building, where are held 
its annual exhibitions of paintings. The Apollo Asso- 
ciation, incorporated in 1840, for a similar purpose, is a 
popular institution. 

Other miscellaneous associations, are the Sacred Music 
Society, for the improvement of church music ; the 
Chamber of Commerce, formed in 1768 ; the Board ol 
Trade ; the Board of UnderAvriters ; the Board of Stock 
and Exchange Brokers ; the New- York Lyceum, with a 
library and reading room, and annual lectures ; together 
with many other institutions of less note. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 23 

BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 

Among the benevolent institutions of the city, is the 
Institution for flie Blind situated on the Eighth Ave- 
nue. having seventy-two pupils ; the Institution for 
the Instruction of the Deaf and Dumb, incorporated in 
1817, on Fiftieth-street, 3| miles from the City Hall, 
containing by the last report, 152 pupils ; the Lying-in- 
Asylum ; the Female Assistance Society, for the relief 
and instruction of the sick poor ; the society for respec- 
table aged Indigent Females ; the Orphan Asylum, es- 
tablished in 1806, situated on the Hudson at Blooming- 
dale, five miles from the City Hall, where great num- 
bers of indigent orphan children are reared and educat- 
ed ; the Protestant Half Orphan Asylum on Twelfth- 
street ; the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum on Prince- 
street ; the Asylum for Colored Orphans, &c. 

The foreign residents have associations for charitable 
purposes, as the St. George's Society, composed of Eng- 
lishmen ; St. Andrew's, of Scotch ; St. Patrick's, of Irish ; 
St. David's, of Welch ; the French, German, Spanish and 
Hebrew Societies ; the St. Nicholas, composed of the 
descendants of the early Dutch inhabitants and others, 
and the New England Society. 

There are also numerous religious associations, as the 
Bible, Tract, Missionary, Sunday School, Education, 
and Seamen's Friend Societies, most of which are sus- 
tained by particular denominations or sects, each having 
its own distinct organization. 

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 

There are four Theatres in the city of New- York, be- 
sides numerous other places of amusement. 
Park Theatre, 

Situated on Park Row, facing the Astor House, is an 
old and fashionable place of resort for those fond of 



24 DESCRIPTION OF 

theatrical entertainments. It was first erected in 1798, 
and the interior destroyed by fire May 24, 1820 ; it was 
rebuilt, except the walls which were left standing, and 
opened in August, 1821. This Theatre is calculated to 
seat about 2,000 persons. 

The Bowery Theatre, 

Was first erected in 1826. It was burnt in May, 1828, 
and immediately afterwards rebuilt, and opened in 
August of the same year. It has since been destroyed 
by fire, and again risen phanix-like, from its ashes. 
The new building is a fine specimen of the Doric order 
of architecture ; the interior being elegant and fitted up 
in a superior style. 

The Olympic Theatre, 

Situated on Broadway, above Canal-street, is a much 
frequented and popular place of amusement. 

The Chatham Theatre and Circus, 

Is situated on Chatham-street, and is an entertaining 
place of amusement. 

A new Italian Opera House, has recently been 
fitted up in Chambers-street, over the Arcade Baths, in 
the rear of the City Hall, and is called Palmo^s New- 
York Opera House. 

The Bowery Amphitheatre, or Circus, situated 
on the Bowery, near the Theatre, is also much fre- 
quented. 

Theatrical entertainments are given during the sum- 
mer at NiBLo's Garden, 576 Broadway, and at Vaux- 
hall Garden, 408 Bowery. 

Castle Garden, at the south-west angle of the Bat- 
tery, is also a place of much attraction, where is occa- 
sionally given a grand display of fire works. 

There are also several other Public Gardens, in dif- 
ferent parts of the city. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 25 

The American Museum, 
At the corner of Broadway and Ann-street, is an old 
and popular place of amusement and instruction. It was 
founded by the late John Scudder in 1810, and now con- 
tains an immense collection of natural and artificial curi* 
osities, which have been brought together by the arduous 
and unremitting exertions of its proprietors, during a period 
of more than thirty years. It is now said to contain over 
half a million of specimens, arranged in six splendid halls, 
each measuring upwards of 100 feet in length. 

The New- York Museum, 
Formerly called Fettle's Museum, is situated on Broad- 
way opposite the City Hall. This is an extensive and in- 
teresting collection of natural and artificial curiosities, 
taken from every part of the world ; the whole being 
handsomely displayed in several spacious apartments. 
It contains also a Gallery of Portraits, and other paintings 
by eminent artists. "■' 

HOTELS AND PUBLIC HOUSES. 

No city is more amply supplied with Hotels and other 
Houses, for the accommodation of travellers and perma- 
nent boarders, than New- York. The most noted are sit- 
uated on Broadway, and they are usually thronged with 
pei'sons from all parts of the Union, and from foreign 
countries. 

The AsTOR House, built of granite, is a very exten- 
sive and imposing edifice ; being five stories high, and 
calculated to accommodate 400 guests. It is situated on 
Broadway, between Barclay and Vesey-streets. 

The others of note are included in the following enu- 
meration : 

The American Hotel, Broadway, corner Barclay-st. 
,. Athenjeum Hotel, 347 Broadway, corner Leonard-st. 

C 



26 DESCRIPTION OP 

Atlantic Hotel, 5 Broadway, near the Battery. 

Batteky Hotel, 8 Battery- Place, 

Caklton House, Broadway, corner Leonard-street. 

City Hotel, Broadway, between Cedar and Thames- 
streets. 

Clinton Hotel, Beekman, corner Nassau- street. 

Ckoton Hotel, (Temperance,) 142 Broadway. 

Dunning's Hotel, Cortlandt, corner Washington-st. 

Eagle Hotel, 61 Broadway. P 

Franklin House, Broadway, corner Dey-street. 

Globe Hotel, QQ Broadway. 

Howard's Hotel, Broadway, corner Maiden-Lane. 

Lovejoy's Hotel, Park-Row, corner Beekman-street. 

Mansion House, (Bunker's,) 39 Broadway. 

Merchants' Hotel, Cortlandt, near Green wich-st. 

Northern Hotel, Cortlandt, corner West-street. 

Pacific Hotel, 162 Greenwich- street. 

Pearl^Street House, 88 Pearl-street. 

United States Hotel, Fulton, between Pearl and 
Water- streets. 

Washington Hotel, Broadway, corner Reade-street. 

Waverley House, 56 Broadway. 

Western Hotel, 9 Cortlandt- street, near Broadway. 

Tammany Hall, Nassau, corner Frankfort- street, and 
several other Public Houses, are kept on the European 
Plan, of letting out rooms by the day or week, and the 
occupant getting his meals when and where he chooses. 

There are numerous private Boarding Houses, in dif- 
ferent parts of the city, affording all the quiet and comfort 
that can be desired, varying in their charges according to 
their situation and style of living. 

There are also a great number of Restaurants, or 
Eating Houses, in the lower part of the city, which are 
much resorted to by citizens and strangers, — the bills of 
fare being generally good, and the charges reasonable. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 27 

HACKNEY COACHES, CABS AND OMNIBUSSES, 

Throng the principal streets, especially Broadway and 
the Bowery. Regular lines of Omnibussesrun between the 
upper and lower parts of the city, affording a cheap and 
certain mode of conveyance. Hackney Coaches and Cabs 
are to be found at the various stands in different parts of 
the city, and at the Steamboat landings. In order to 
guEflfd against impositions from their drivers, it is neces- 
sary that the stranger should make himself acquainted 
with the rates of fare allowed by law, to violate which 
subjects them to a fine. These rates are — for conveying 
a passenger any distance not exceeding one mile, 37| 
cents ; and for every additional passenger, 25 cents, in- 
cluding ordinary baggage. 

MARKETS, 

The largest and most important Markets are, 

Fulton Mabket, situated on South-street, between 
Fulton and Beekman-streets. 

Washington Market, on West-street, between Ful- 
ton and Dey- streets. 

Catharine Market, in Catharine- street, running 
from Cherry to South- street. 

Centre Market, between Grand and Broome-streets. 

Essex Market, on Grand-street, corner Essex-street, 

Clinton Market, at the foot of Canal-street ; be- 
sides Jefferson, Union, Greenwich, Tompkins, Gouver- 
neur, Monroe, and Franklin Markets, situated in different 
parts of the city — all being abundantly supplied with 
every variety of meats, fish, fruit and vegetables that the 
country affords. 



28 DESCRIPTION OF 

TRADE AND COMMERCE. 

The trade and navigation of the city of New- York are 
immense. The average number of arrivals, American and 
foreign, amount to about 2000 annually, independently of 
coasters from different parts of the Union. A great num- 
ber of steamboats also arrive and depart daily, carry- 
ing passengers and merchandize. The wharves are 
crowded with vessels, sometimes exceeding one thousand 
in number, from all countries and of almost every size 
and rig, giving constant employment to a great number of 
mariners. 

The number of wharves or piers for the use of the ship- 
ping, on the East River, is 60 ; on the Hudson, 53. The 
numerous packet ships, and most of the foreign vessels lie 
in the East River. 

The amount of capital invested in marine insurance is 
over three millions of dollars, exclusive of companies for 
mutual assurance. There are twenty-three Fire Insur- 
ance Companies, with an aggregate capital of six millions. 

The number of Banks is twenty-nine, having a capital 
of about twenty-five millions. 

There are two Gas Light Companies, with a capital of 
$1,500,000. The Farmers' Loan and Trust Company 
Las a capital of $2,000,000, and the Life Insurance and 
Trust Company a capital of $1,000,000. 

The rapid increase of the city in population, wealth, 
trade and navigation, during the last fifteen or twenty 
years, is attributable for the most part to the opening of 
the Erie canal, and other internal improvements. 
BUILDINGS. 

The number of dwelling houses in the city in 1840, 
was 16,458 ; dwellings with stores, 6,614; stores and of- 
ces, 3,855 ; other buildings, 5,189 ; making a grand to- 
tal of 32,116 buildings of diff'erent kinds. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 29 

CROTON AQUEDUCT. 

This Aqueduct, for supplying the city of New- York 
with pure and wholesome water, is one of the most ad- 
mirable works of the kind to be found in any country. 
Excluding the Grand Reservoir, 5 miles long and having 
an area of about 400 acres, occupying the bed and valley 
of the Croton river, the length of the Aqueduct, from the 
Dam which forms that Reservoir, to the Distributing Re- 
servoir on Murray Hill in New- York, is 40^ miles. The 
Dam is placed, in the Croton river, about 6 miles from its 
confluence with the Hudson ; and it elevates the water in 
the Reservoir 40 feet to the level of the Aqueduct Head, 
or 166 feet above the top line of mean-tide in the Hud- 
son. Passing from the Dam down the Croton valley 
about 6 miles, the Aqueduct turns into the valleyof the 
Hudson and runs southerly through Westchester county, 
32.88 miles, to the verge of the Harlem River valley. 

Throughout this distance the Aqueduct is a continuous 
conduit of stone and brick masonry. The width of the 
the Harlem valley, at the height of the conduit level, is 
about 1,450 feet, or a little more than } mile ; and the A- 
queduct crosses it in cast-iron pipes of 3 feet bore, on a 
level 114 feet above the ordinary high- water surface of 
the river. On reaching the southern verge of this valley, 
on the Island of New- York, the pipes give place again to 
the conduit of masorry, which thus continues for 2 miles 
and a fraction over, to the verge of the high ground over- 
looking the Manhattan valley. At that point the conduit 
level is 102 feet higher than the bottom of the valley, 
which, at the height of the level, is a fraction ever | 
mile wide. The conduit passes this valley in cast-iron 
pipes, of the bore already stated, following the valley- 
curve ; and on ascending to the southern verge of the 
curves the pipes again give place to the conduit of ma- 



30 DESCRIPTIOW OF 

sonry, which, crossing the Asylum ridge in Blooming- 
dale, and the Clendenning valley, runs a little more than 
two mil^s, to the great Receiving Reservoir, on York- 
Hill, 5 miles and a little over from the City Hall. 

This Receiving Reservoir includes an area of 35 
acres, being 1,826 feet long by 836 feet wide, measuring 
from the external angles of the enclosing embankment, 
and it is divided by a cross wall into two parts of unequal 
capacities. From this Reservoir the Aqueduct, with a 
conduit of cast-iron pipes of the size before mentioned, 
continues a fraction over 2 miles, to the Distributing 
Reservoir at Murray Hill. Itis 420 feet square, as mea- 
sured on the cornice of the outer wall ; it contains an area 
of a little more than 4 acres, divided into two equal parts 
by a partition wall ; its enclosing walls have an average 
height of 44^ feet above the adjacent streets, and it is 3 
miles from the City Hall. 

From this Reservoir the water is drawn in large cast- 
iron pipes called the Great Mains, which lead through 
the central parts of the city, and from which the distri- 
bution of the water for use, is made by pipes of various 
dimensions, diminishing in size as the ramifications ex- 
tend. 

The aggregate length of the Great Mains is about four 
miles ; and if they be included in the linear measure- 
ment, together with the Croton Reservoir above the Dam, 
the entire distance falls but little short of 50 miles. 

Of the excavation required for grading the line and 
constructing the Aqueduct, the larger moiety was of 
rock, and amounted to somewhat more than 400,000 cu- 
bic yards. 

The shape of the country for much of the way presents 
a succession of transverse ridges and ravines, to be cut, 
tunneled, or embanked, and swelling the cost of the work. 



NEW-YORK CITY. 31 

The whole number of tunnels is 16, varying in length 
from 160 feet to 1,263 feet each, and making a total of 
6,841 feet, with roofs varying from 25 feet to 75 feet in 
vertical depth. 

In Westchester county 25 streams are crossed, with 
beds from 12 feet to 70 feet below the grade line of the 
Aqueduct, to say nothing of many small brooks, and all 
requiring, for the safety of the work, culverts of mason- 
ry. The whole number of culverts is 114, varying in 
span, from 1| feet to 25 feet each, and making an ag- 
gregate length of 7,959 linear feet. 

The grandest structure is the Bridge over the Harlem 
River and valley. The width of the river itself is 620 
feet, and that of the valley a little more than a quarter 
of a mile, which is the length of the Bridge. The arches 
over the river are 8 in number, with a span of 80 feet 
each, springing from stone piers 20 feet wide at the spring- 
line, which is 60 feet above the surface of the river at 
high- water mark ; and the arches being semicircles, the 
spring is half the span, making the whole height 100 feet 
from the river surface to the soffit, or under side of the 
centre of these arches. On the north side of these 
large arches are 6 others and on the south side one, of 50 
feet span each, resting on piers 7 feet wide, which, with 
the abutment at each end, complete the supports of the 
Bridge. The parapet walls and the whole superstructure 
are of stone j the whole width at the top of the parapets 
being 21 feet, and the height at the same line being 114 
feet above the water. These dimensions give the exter- 
nal aspect of this magnificent work. 

The Receiving Reservoir at York Hill, is formed 
with vast earth embankments perfectly puddled, protect- 
ed externally by massy walls of stone masonry, and de- 



32 DESCRIPTION OF 

signed to contain 20 feet depth of water measuring 150 
millions of gallons. 

The Distributing Reservoir, at Murray Hill, is 
formed with double and hollow walls of heavy masonry. 
Their least height is 39 feet and their greatest 49 feet, 
strengthened at the corners with pilasters, or buttresses, 
projecting from the wall- face four feet and being 40 feet 
wide, while at the points equi-distant from the corners 
these buttresses are 60 feet wide, projecting from the wall- 
face six feet. In both cases they rise several feet above the 
top of the walls, which is guarded all round with an iron 
railing running along the cornice. In the central pilasters 
are doors leading to the pipe-chambers in the walls where 
the cocks are regulated. The inside of these walls is 
strengthened with a sloping and heavy puddled embank- 
ment, faced with rubble masonry and coped with cut stone. 
The bottom of the Reservoir is a dense hardpan, covered 
with puddle two feet thick, and then floored one foot 
thick with hydraulic concrete. 

This Reservoir is calculated to hold 30 feet depth of 
water, with its surface 115 feet above mean- tide, and 
measuring 20 millions of gallons. 

The first contracts for construction, were made in April 
1837, and the work commenced in the next month. The 
whole work was so far completed that the water was let 
in from the Croton Dam, June 22d 1842, and was admit- 
ted into the Distributing Reservoir, on the 4th of July 
following. The event of its completion, so far as to afford 
an abundant and constant supply of water, was celebrated 
with great pomp and parade on the 14th day of Oct. 1842. 
The total cost of this noble and useful work, will amount 
to about $12,000,000. 

But the supply of pure and wholesome water to the in- 
habitants of New- York, for all culinary and household 



JTEW-YORK CITY. 33 

uses, does not, by any means, constitute the whole value of 
this great work. The supply of pure water, in larger abun- 
dance, to public bathing-houses and hospitals — its aid in 
cleaning streets — its utility as a permanent and ready pro- 
tection against fires, and its consequent influence in re- 
ducing the expense of insurance and enhancing the value 
of property — all conducive to the health, comfort, safety and 
economy of life — are important blessings resulting from 
this work, and they are certain to multiply with the 
growth of the city. Nor are these all its advantages. 
Even the means thus afforded for the mere embellishment 
of the city with fountains in the public squares, should 
not be overlooked ; for whatever adds to its attractions as 
a place of residence, is an obvious and substantial benefit 
to all classes, and especially to the holders of real estate. 
Of this mode of embellishment several specimens have 
already been furnished, and the Fountains in the Bowling 
Green, the Park, Union Place, and St. John's Park, are 
celebrated for the height of their jets, and for picturesque 
beauty of design and general eff'ect. 

FIRE DEPARTMENT. 

The FiKE Depaktment is well organized, and cost 
during the year 1841, $76,788.53 ; there were 48 engines, 
33 hose carriages, '48,450 feet hose, 47 ladders, 53 hooks, 
and 7 hook and ladder trucks, belonging to the Depart- 
ment. The number of engine companies was 48, hose 
companies 34, hook and ladder companies 7, hydrant com- 
panies 3, and the number of men in the Department 1,639. 

CITY COURTS. 

The Courts in the city of local jurisdiction, are the fol- 
lowing : The Superior Court, composed of a Chief Jus- 
tice and two Justices ; the Court of Common Pleas, or 
County Court, consisting of a First Judge, and two A&- 



34 DESCRIPTION OF 

sociate Judges, together with the Mayor, Recorder and 
Aldermen, Judges ex- officio ; the Vice- Chancellor and 
Assistant Vice- Chancellor's Courts ; the Marine Court, 
(jurisdiction limited to $100, except in marine cases,) 
and six Justices' or Ward Courts, (limited to $50.) 

CITY POLICE. 

The Police of the city depends for its efficiency on the 
personal character of the Mayor, its head ; but the sys- 
tem is believed to be extremely defective. There were 
confined in the Penitentiary on Blackwell's Island, at the 
close of 1841, 842 convicts — 396 males and 446 females. 
Of this number 230 were sentenced by the criminal courts, 
and the remainder were vagrants committed by Justices 
of the Police. 

The number of Watchmen employed at night, is 956, 
at an average expense of over $200,000 per annum. 

rERRIES. 

The public Ferries, running from the city of New- York 
to adjacent places, are as follow : 

South Ferry, from Whitehall- st. to Atlantic-st. Brooklyn. 
Fulton Ferry, " Fulton-st. " Fulton-st. " 

Catharine Fer. " Catharine-st. '' Main-st. '' 

Walnut Ferry, " Walnut-st. '' Jackson-st. " 

Peck Slip Fer. " Peck Slip, to S. 7th. st. Williamsburgh. 
Grand-st. Fer. '' Grand-st. to Grand-st. '* 

Houston Fer. " Houston-st. to " " 

Hell-Gate Fer. '^ Eighty-Sixth-st. to Astoria, Long-Isla'd. 
Staten Is. Fer. '* Battery Place to Staten Island. 
Jersey City Fr. " Cortlandt-st. " Jersey City, New-Jer. 
Barclay-st. Fr. " Barclay-st. '' Hoboken, *' 

Canal-st. Fer. '' Canal-street '' " ^' 

Christopher-st. Fr. from Christopher st. to Hoboken,N. J. 
Fort-Lee and Bull's Fer. from Canal-st. to Fort-Lee, " 



NEW-YORK CITY. 35 

STEAMBOATS AND PACKETS. 

Steamboats leave the city daily during the greater part 
of the year for Albany, Troy, Hudson, Poughkeepsie, 
Newburgh, Peekskill, Haverstraw, Sing-Sing, Piermont, 
and other places on the Hudson. For Providence and 
Nevv^port in Rhode-Island. Stonington, Norwich, New- 
London, Hartford, New-Haven, Bridgeport, and Stam- 
ford, in Connecticut, by Long Island Sound. For Eliza- 
bethport, Newark, Amboy, New-Brunswick, and Shrews- 
bury, in New- Jersey ; and for various landings on Long 
Island. 

Steamers also plybetween this city and London; Liver- 
pool, and Bristol, England. 

Lines of packet ships sail with great regularity to va- 
rious ports in Europe, the West Indies, South America, 
and the United States. 

RAILROADS. 

New- York and Philadelphia Railroad Lines. 

In addition to the Camden and Amhoy Railroad^ which 
connects with a line of Steamboats, landing near the 
Battery ; there is the New- Jersey Railroad, commencing 
at Jersey City, opposite Cortlandt-street, connecting with 
a line of railroads extending to Philadelphia, 86 miles. 
Passengers leave New-York, by the latter route, from 
the foot of Liberty-street j being conveyed to Jersey City 
in a commodious steam ferry boat. 

Elizabethtown and Somerville Railroad. 

Passengers by this Railroad and Steamboat Line, leave 
New- York from the foot of Battery Place, touching at 
New-Brighton and Port Richmond, on Staten Island. 

Paterson and Hudson Railroad. 

Passengers going to Paterson, N. J., 17 miles by rail- 
road, leave New- York from the foot of Cortlandt-street. 



36 RAILROADS AND STAGES. 

Long-Island Railroad. 

Passengers by this route leave New- York from the foot 
of Whitehall-street, for different places on Long-Island. 
This railroad is now finished from Brooklyn to Smith- 
town, Suffolk county, a distance ol 47 miles. 
Harlem Railroad. 

Passengers leave the city from near the City Hall, for 
the different places on the line of the Harlem Railroad, 
which is now finished to Williams' Bridge, a distance of 
14^ miles, on Bronx river. • 

New-York and Erie Railroad. 

A Steamboat leaves New-York daily, from the foot of 
Duane- street, for Piermont, a distance of 24 miles; con- 
necting with cars running on this railroad to* Goshen and 
Middletown, in Orange county, a further distance of 53 
miles. 

Stages for Milford, Honesdale and Binghamton, run 
from the cars on their arrival at Middletown. 

STAGES. 

A line of Stages run from New- York, through New- 
Jersey and into Pennsylvania ; thence to Binghamton in 
the state of New- York, connecting with a line of travel 
north to Utica, and west to Owego. 

Stages usually leave Cortlandt- street, during the winter 
months, for Albany and the intermediate places on the 
east side of the Hudson river ; while a line runs from the 
New- York and Erie Railroad, diverging from Turner's 
Depot, on the west side of the river. 

Stages leave the Bowery several times daily, for Har- 
lem, Manhattanville and difl'erent places in Westchester 
county. 

Stages also leave Franklin Square and Brooklyn, for 
Flushing, Jamaica, Fort Hamilton, and other places on 
,Long Island. 



VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. 37 

FASHIONABLE PLACES OF RESORT IN THE 
VICINITY OF THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

In the vicinity of New- York are mjmerous places of 
resort, which are easily reached by means of Steamboats, 
Railroads and Stages. Among the most favorite Steam- 
boat Excursions, may be named a trip to any of the va- 
rious places on the Hudson river — to Staten Island — to 
Shrewsbury and Long Branch — and through the East Ri- 
ver, to the various places on both sides of Long Island 
Sound J being all delightful, especially during the warm 
season. 

The resorts on the Hudson, most worthy of a visit, 
are fully described under the head of the " Hudson Ri- 
ver and its Vicinity. ^^ 

Staten Island, lying about six miles to the south of 
the city, surrounded in part by the beautiful bay of New- 
York, presents many attractions, and is much frequented. 
Steamboats leave New- York several times during the 
day, from the foot of Whitehall- street, for Tompkins- 
ville and Stapleton, both facing the Quarantine Ground ; 
also, from the foot of Battery Place, for New-Brighton 
and Port Richmond, on Staten Island Sound. 

The Ocean House, near Sandy Hook, is much re- 
sorted to during the summer months. 

Shrewsbury, Red Banks and Tinton Falls, all 
situated on a stream called Shrewsbury River, which emp- 
ties into the ocean near Sandy Hook, are also favorite 
resorts. A steamboat leaves New- York daily, from near 
Fulton Market on the East River, for the above places. 

Long Branch, 30 miles southof the city of New- York, 
is on the eastern shore of New- Jersey, facing the Atlantic 
Ocean, and affords a grand view of the coast for many 
miles. This is an old and fashionable resort for those 
who are fond of fishing or sea bathing, for which pur- 



38 VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. 

pose it is considered equal to any resort in the vicinity of 
New- York or Philadelphia. 

Cape May, at the mouth of Delaware Bay, the ex- 
treme south part of New-Jersey, has of late attracted 
much attention as a watering place ; extensive accommo- 
dations are now being erected for the convenience of 
visiters. 

The places of resort on Long Island are numerous 
and present various attractions during warm weather, to 
invalids and seekers of pleasure. 

The city of Brooklyn, connected with New- York by 
four ferries, on which are placed commodious steam ferry 
boats, is a place of healthy and delightful residence, and 
much resorted to by pedestrians. The United States 
Navy Yard, on Wallabout Bay is well worthy of a visit. 
Greenwood Cemetery, near Gowanus, two or three 
miles south of the city of New- York, is a romantic and 
well selected burial place for the dead. 

Flatbush, on the road to Fort Hamilton and Coney 
Island, is delightfully situated, distant 3 miles from 
Brooklyn. 

East New- York, Union Race Course, and Jamai- 
ca, are all situated on the line of the Long-Island Rail- 
road, and are easily reached by cars or stages. 

The village of Hempstead, 23 miles from Brooklyn, 
by railroad, is celebrated as being a delightful place of 
residence, and a favorite resort. 

All who are fond of sea bathing, the invigorating sea 
breeze, or hunting and fishing, may find abundunt grati- 
fication at 

Fort Hamilton, situated at the " Narrows," where 
has recently been opened a commodious hotel ; at 

Bath House, on Gravesend Bay, an old and favorite 
resort ; or at 



VICIlSriTY OP NEW-YORK. 39 

Coney Island, facing the Atlantic ocean, where are 
several well kept public houses. 

Stages leave Brooklyn several times daily, during the 
summer months, for the above fashionable resorts, pas- 
sing through the pleasant villages of Flatbush and 'New 
Utrecht. 

RocKAWAY Beach, with its splendid hotel, the Ma- 
rine Pavilion, and other public houses, has been long 
and deservedly a favorite resort during warm weather. 
The most desirable mode of conveyance to Rockaway, is 
by railroad cars to Jamaica, and thence by stage ; being 
distant about 20 miles from the city of New- York. 

Besides these, there are other agreeable and still more 
retired retreats on the south side of Long Island, farther 
east. In Great South Bay, extending from Hempstead 
to Southampton, a distance of 50 miles, are to be found 
inexhaustible quantities of scale and shell fish of difFe* 
rent kinds, and countless numbers of wild fowl. 

Montauk Point, the eastern extremity of Long Is- 
land, 140 miles from the city of New- York — with its 
rugged and beetling clifi's — its foaming breakers, and the 
mighty ocean in front, is a spot surrounded by great 
grandeur and beauty. 

Flushing, 9 miles east of New- York, is a delightful 
and retired place of residence and resort. Here is situa- 
ted the LinncEan Botanic Garden, which possesses many 
attractions and is much visited. 

Glen-Cove, Oyster Bay and Cold Springs, on the 
north side of Long Island, are also much frequented in 
summer. 

New-Rochelle, and other places on the Westches- 
ter shore of Long Island Sound, are also well worthy of 
a visit, and are much resorted to during the summer 
months by fashionable visiters. 



40 VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. 

Daily lines cf steamboatSj in addition to stages, run 
from the city of New- York, to most of the places on both 
sides of Long Island Sound, affording cheap and speedy 
modes of conveyance. 

Various places on the Island of New- York, and in 
Westchester county, near the line of the Harlem. Rail- 
road, are also much visited. Stages leave the present 
termination of the railroad at Williams' Bridge, for "West- 
Farms, Eastchester, New-Rochelle Mamaroneck, Rye 
and Port- Chester on the Sound, and White Plains, and 
other places in the interior of Westchester county. 

■ In the neighboring region of New-Jersey, also, are 
several places of much interest, not only to the lover of 
the picturesque, but to the social economist ; and they 
are easily reached by the railroads Vvhich diverge from 
Jersey City opposite New- York, Among these, besides 
Hoboken, Weehawken, the Elysian Fields, and other 
points near the shore of the Hudson, are the Passaic 
Falls, near the celebrated manufacturing village of 
Paterson, distant 17 miles from New-York. The whole 
descent of the Passaic, at this spot, is from 60 to 70 
feet. In the first portion of its descent the river rushes 
over a steep slope of deeply rifted rock, and then makes 
a clear pitch of some 30 or 40 feet into a narrow, wedge- 
shaped and transverse chasm, with a high wall of perpen- 
dicular rock fronting the falls and right athwart the course 
of the stream, compelling the boiling waters to pass out 
of the chasm nearly at right angles with their previous 
direction, into the broad and black pool immediately be- 
low, which is walled in, for many rods on each side of 
the gorge, by perpendicular cliffs cf naked rock 80 or 90 
feet high, greatly augmenting the grandeur of the scene. 
As the river escapes from this magnificent basin, it 
makes another sharp angle, and thus resuming nearly 



VICIWITY OF NEW-YORK. 41 

the direction of the current ahove the falls, it flows away 
with a gentle descent through a fertile and cultivated val. 
ley of meadow, pasture, and arable lands. The con- 
trasts presented by the scene are various and striking, 
greatly enhancing its beauty, especially when the volume 
of the river is swelled by heavy rains. Of late years, 
however, some of the finest features of the place are im- 
paired in their expression by the diversion of much of the 
water, taken out above the falls and led away through 
the village of Paterson, for hydraulic uses. Still, the 
loss thus suffered by the picturesque, is amply compen- 
sated by gain to the useful, and by the associated images 
of individual and social benefit, of improving arts, and 
general prosperity. 

The Morris Canal passes a little to the south of Pas- 
saic Falls, on its roiUe from Jersey City across the state 
to the Delaware river, which it reaches at Easton, dis- 
tant from the Hudson 100 miles by this line. 

Newark, Elizabethtown, New Brunswick, and 
other places on the line of the New Jersey Railroad, are 
easily reached by means of steamboats and railroad cars. 
MoRRisTowN, 22 miles from Newark, is connected 
with the latter place by railroad, passing through the vil- 
lage of Orange, where there is a Mineral Spring of con- 
siderable celebrity. 

Schooley's Mountain, w^hich is usually approached 
from New- York by means of railroad and stages passing 
through Elizabethtown and Somerville, is a place of much 
fashionable resort, during the summer months, owing to 
its high, airy, and healthy situation. The extensive 
prospect afforded from its top, on which is located an 
excellent public house, is perhaps unrivalled. 

Belmont Hall, situated on the highest part of the moun- 
tain, 2,000 feet above tide water, is surrounded by a park 

D 



42 EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL. 

of many acres richly adorned with forest, fruit, and orna- 
mental trees. The proprietor has left nothing undone to 
give general satisfaction to his numerous visiters. A 
short distance from the hotel are Mineral Springs, where 
much has recently been expended for the comfort of visi- 
ters washing to enjoy this pure chalybeate at the fountain. 
The distance from the city of New York to Elizabeth- 
port, by steamboat, is 12 miles ; from Elizabethport to 
Somerville, by railroad, 26 miles ; from SomerviJle to 
Schooley's Mountain, by stage, 20 miles. Passengers 
from Philadelphia, usually leave the railroad cars at 
New Brunswick and proceed to the mountain by stage. 

EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL THROUGH 
LONG ISLAND SOUND. 

There are at present three great lines of travel be- 
tween the cities of New- York and Boston, by steamboats 
and railroad cars. 

1. A line of Steamboats leave New-York for New Ha- 
ven, daily, Sundays excepted, from Peck slip. East River, 
at 6 o'clock A. M. in summer, and at 7 A. M. in winter. 
Distance, 80 miles. The New Haven and Hartford 
Railroad, extends from Hew Haven to Hartford, a further 
distance of 3S miles. 

A line of Steamboats also run direct from New- York to 
Hartford, via Saybrook, daily, Sundays excepted, from 
the 1st April to 1st December. In winter, passengers 
for Hartford are carried via New Haven. 

From Hartford, a line of travel extends up the valley 
of the Connecticut river ; at Springfield, a distance of 25 
miles, it intersects the Western Railroad of Massachu- 
setts, one of the great links of railroads extending from 
Boston to Buffalo, a total distance of 525 miles. 
Distance from Springfield to Boston, by railroad, 93 miles. 
" " Albany, " 102 miles. 



EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL. 43 

2. A line of Steamboats leave New- York for New 
London and Norwich, daily, Sundays excepted, starting 
from Pier No. 1, North River, at 5 o'clock P. M. in the 
summer and 4 P. M. in winter. Distance to Norwich by 
water. 133 miles. 

The Norwich and Worcester Railroad now extends 
from Allen's Point, 7 miles below Norwich, to Worces- 
ter, Mass., a whole distance of 66 miles, connecting 
with the great east and west line already mentioned. 
Distance from Worcester to Boston, by railroad, 44 miles. 
The total distance between New-York and Boston, by this 
route, is 235 miles j usual time, 15 hours. 

3. A line of Steamboats of the first class, leave New- 
York daily, Sundays excepted, in the afternoon, from the 
foot of Battery Place, for Stonington, Newport and Pro« 
vidence, connecting with railroads running to Boston. 

At Stonington, 135 miles from New- York, by water, 
commences the Providence and Stonington Railroad^ 
extending to Providence, a distance of 47 miles. The 
Boston and Providence Railroad, extends a further dis- 
tance of 42 miles j making the total distance between 
New- York and Boston, by this route, 224 miles ; usual 
time, 14 1 hours. 

HOUSATONIC ROUTE BETWEEN NEW-YORK 

AND ALBANY. 

In addition to the above lines cf travel through Long 
Island Sound, and the states of Connecticut, Rhode Is* 
land, and Massachusetts — a Steamboat leaves New- York, 
daily, Sundays excepted, for Bridgeport, Conn. ; distance 
60 miles. During the close of navigation on the Hudson 
River, this is the most expeditious and desirable routie 
between the commercial and political capitals cf the state 
of New- York. 



44 HOUSATONIC ROUTE. 

At Bridgeport commences the Housatonic Railroad, 
which, in connection with the Berkshire Railroad, and 
the Jllhany and West Stockbridge Railroad, unites the 
cities of New- York and Albany, by one connected line of 
steamboats and railroads. Total distance, 198 miles ; 
usual time, 15 hours. 

Distances between New-York and Albany, via 
Bridgeport. 

To Bridgeport, by Steamboat, 60 miles. 

Stepney, by Railroad, 10 70 '* 

Bottsford, 5 75 " 

Newtown, 5 80 " 

Brook-field, 10 90 " 

Housatonic River, 6 96 " 

New Milford, 1 97 " 

Gaylcrd's Bridge, 6 103 '' 

Kent, 6 109 '' 

Cornwall, 12 121 '' 

Canaan Falls Village, 6 127 " 

Connecticut State Line, 7 134 

Sheffield, Mass 6 140 

Great Barrington, 6 146 

West Stockbridge, 12 158 

New-York State Line, 2 160 

Tunnel, (600 feet long,) 2 162 

Chatham Four Corners, 13 175 

Kinderhook, 7 182 

Schodack, 8 190 

Albany, ...... ..0....C. 8 198 



i( 



It 



I'/. / /^ DJ'' cf'hjj^ .// ^ vj.y oy i{ I ' 'J^^R 



AVilh die dJa 




HUDSON RIVER AND ITS VICINITY. 



During the season of navigation on the Hudson, which 
usually extends from about the 20th of March to the fore- 
part of December, numerous steamboats leave the city of 
New- York every morning and evening, for various pla- 
ces on both shores of the river. The boats of the largest 
class, nowhere excelled for comfort and speed, run through 
to Albany and Troy, about 150 miles, in ten to twelve 
hours running time, and touch at the principal villages 
on the way, to land and receive passengers. Usual fare 

•v. 

through. $2.00, including berths in the night boats. 

To the traveller for pleasure and health, the day boats 
are the most desirable, particularly in hot weather, when 
a night's confinement in a crowded cabin is very oppres- 
sive ; and they furnish a fine opportunity to enjoy the 
varied and beautiful scenery of this noble river. 

The panoramic view on leaving the city is extensive 
and grand. Seaward it embraces parts of Long Island 
and Staten Island with the '' Narrows," — the spacious 
Bay of New- York studded with Governor's, Bedlow's, 
and Ellis's Islands — the Jersey shore, on the west, with 
its settlements and cultivated fields — and on the east the 
city itself with its long ranges of wharves and shipping, 
its spires, and its masses of architecture — and as the boat 
rounds out upon the bosom of the majestic river and 
springs forward on her upward course, the view, crowded 
with striking contrasts and full of life and action, is one 
of rare beauty and interest. 

Jersey City opposite the lower part of New- York, 
and HoBOKEN a mile north, are seen to great advantage 



46 HUDSON RIVER 

as the steamboat leaves the wharf. At the former place 
commences the Neiv Jersey j and Pater son Railroads ; 
and the latter place is a delightful and favorite resort of 
the citizens of New- York, during the warm summer sea- 
son, when the commodious steam ferry boats are crowd- 
ed every afternoon with parties of both sexes, seeking 
refreshment from the heated and thronged streets of the 
city, in that charming retreat. 

Weehawken, on the Jersey shore north of Hoboken 
and 3 miles from New- York, a high wooded cliif, with its 
bold rocky bluffs partly veiled with trees and partly bare, 
and a handsome villa on its summit is one of the finest 
points in the scene as you move up the river. At the 
foot of this cliff' and on the margin of the river a small 
obelisk of white marble for many years marked the spot 
where Alexander Hamilton fell in his fatal duel with 
Aaron Burr, on the 12th July, 1804. The monument, 
however, has long since been removed. 

Bull's Ferry, 2 to 3 miles further north, on the 
game shore, is a place of considerable resort, being con- 
nected with the city by a steam ferry. 

Bloomingdale, on York Island, 5 miles from the City 
Hall, is a scattered settlement, in which the most promi- 
nent object is the Orphan Asylum, which, as seen from 
the river, with its green lawn extending to the water's 
edge and surrounded by a fine grove, presents a pleasing 
aspect. 

About 3 miles further up the island, or 8 miles from the 
City Hall, is the Lunatic Asylum, a stately pile stand- 
ing on elevated ground. 

The next conspicuous object on the island, and visible 
from the Hudson, isMANHATTANviLLE, about a mile and 
a half east of which, toward the East River and near 
Hell-Gate, is the village of Harlem. 



AND ITS VICINITY. 47 

Fort Washington, 2 miles north of Manhattanville, 
is elevated 238 feet above the river, being the highest 
point on the island of New- York. This old fort was 
captured by the British and Hessians, in the disastrous 
campaign of 1776, when some two or three thousand Amer- 
icans were either killed or taken captive, and thrown into 
the prison-ships at the Wallabout Bay, where the United 
States now have an extensive Navy- Yard, near Brooklyn. 

Fort Lee, on the Jersey shore, 10 miles from New- 
York, is a place of considerable interest, and between it 
and that city a steam ferry boat plies daily. The site of 
the old fort is on the brow of the Palisades, a short dis- 
tance from the river and elevated about 300 feet above it. 
It was surrendered to the British in 1776, immediately 
after the capture of Fort Washington. 

The Palisades, the most striking and peculiar feature 
of the scenery on either side of the Hudson, commence a 
little north of Weehawken, and on the same shore. This 
descriptive designation has been given to a majestic range 
of columnar rock, varying in height from 50 feet to 3 and 
400 feet, and walling in the Hudson as far as Piermont, 
a distance of 20 miles. Just above Fort Lee they rise, 
almost perpendicularly, from the water's edge ; and as 
the channel of the river, for the whole 20 miles, runs 
very near the west side and along the base of these ma- 
jestic cliffs, they are seen to great advantage from the 
decks of the steamboats. 

Spuvten Duyvel Creek flows into the Hudson 13 
miles north of the City Hall of New- York, and connects 
with the Harlem river on the east, thus separating the 
Island of New- York from Westchester county. Kings- 
bridge, on the great post-road from New- York to Albany, 
crosses this creek about a mile from its mouth, near which 
on the north bank, is the site of old Fort Independence, 



48 HUDSON RIVER 

Here commences a succession of beautifully situated 
country residences, looking out upon the river and across 
it to the Palisades ; the shore itself being marked by a 
succession of narrow valleys and ridges running back with 
a gradual ascent to the north and south range of highland, 
which separates the waters flowing into the Hudson, from 
those which pass off to the East River and Long Island 
Sound. As you advance up through Westchester, this 
north and south ridge becomes more elevated and rocky. 
It is, in fact, the commencement of that extensive and 
lofty range which soon enlarges itself into the Fishkill 
Mountains, further north swells into the still loftier Tagh- 
kanic group, and finally attains its highest grandeur in 
the Green Mountains of Vermont. 

YoNKERS, 17 miles north of New- York, is a thriving 
village in Westchester county, at the mouth of Saw-mill 
river. It contains about 80 dwelling houses and some 500 
or 600 inhabitants, and is the summer resort of many citi- 
zens of New-York, being easily reached by the steam- 
boats which ply daily between that city, Sing-Sing an:l 
Peekskill. It is surrounded by very pleasant scenery and 
commands a fine view of the Hudson and the Palisades. 

Hastings, 3 miles north of Yonkers, is a convenient 
landing-place, at which the smaller steamboats touch to 
receive and discharge passengers. 

Dobb's Ferry, 22 miles north of New- York, is a small 
settlement with a steamboat wharf. This was an impor- 
tant point in the military operations of the Revolutionary 
war. A ferry communicates with the opposite shore at 
the foot of the Palisades, a little north of the boundary 
line between the States of New-York and New-Jersey ; 
and from this point northward both sides of the Hudson 
are in New- York. 



AND ITS VICINITY. 49 

PiEKMONT, formerly known as Tappan Landing, or 
the " Sloat," is on the west shore of the Hudson, 24 miles 
from the city of New- York. It has become a place of 
importance as the terininus of the New-York and Erie 
Railroad. The line of this great work, from Piermont 
to Dunkirk on the shore of Lake Erie, is 446 miles long. 
In 1841, the section extending from Piermont, which is 
in the county of Rockland, to Goshen in Orange county, 
46 miles, was finished and put in operation. Since that 
time, the completion of 7 miles more, extends the road to 
Middletown. At Piermont a substantial pier, more than 
a mile long, has been constructed, extending from the 
shore to the channel of the Hudson. A steamboat plies 
daily between this place and New- York, and connects 
with the cars running on the railroad. At this point, 
also, the Palisades terminate on the north by an abrupt hill. 
This hill, and the extensive pie?" already mentioned, be- 
ing the two most distinguishing features of the place, they 
have been appropriately combined to form the name of 
Piermont. 

Distances on the New- York and Ekie' Railroad 
FnoM Piermont to Middletown. 

To Blauveltville, 4 miles. 

Clarkstown, 5 9" 

Mousey's, 4 13 ** 

SufFern's, 5 18 '' 

Ramapo, 2 20 '' 

Monroe Works, 8 28 " 

Turner's, (17 miles from Newburgh,) . 5 33 " 

Monroe village, 3 36 " 

Chester, 5 41 " 

Goshen, 5 46 '* 

Newhampton, 4 50 '• 

Middletown, 3 53 " 

Two or three miles west from the river is the old vil- 
lage of Tappan, memorable as having been for a time, 



60 HUDSON RIVER 

the Head-Quarters of Washington and the American army 
during the Revolution, and the place where Major Andre 
was executed on the 2d of October, 1780. 

Tappan Bay — or, as it was usually called in earlier 
times, Tappan Sea — heing an expansion of tlie river, 
commences at Piermont and extends northward to Tel* 
ler's Point, a distance of 10 miles, with an average wddth 
of about 3 miles. On the eastern shore of this Bay, in 
the midst of a beautiful landscape, is the favorite country 
residence of Washington Irving. Nowhere on either shore 
of the Hudson is the scenery more distinguished for its 
picturesque beauty, having the Palisades in full view at 
the southwest ; at the west and north a fine range of hills 
jstretching away to the grand mountain masses of the 
" Highlands," with the broad river between. 

Irving, is the name given to a small settlement about 
one mile south of the village of 

Tarrytown, which is beautifully situated on the east 
bank of the river, overlooking Tappan Bay, 27 miles 
north of the city of New-York. It contains about 100 
dwelling houses and 1,000 inhabitants. Steamboats run- 
ning to New- York, touch daily at this place. Immediate- 
ly north is Beekmantown, where is the Irving Institute, 
a school of much celebrity, and a venerable Dutch Re. 
formed Church, erected about the middle of the 17th cen- 
tury. Tarrytown is famed as being the place where Major 
Andre was captured while watering his horse, on his re- 
turn from West Point, and from a personal interview 
with the traitor, Gen, Arnold. Immediately north of this 
village, also, is the famous Sleepy Hollow, where Wash- 
ington Irving laid the scene of his entertaining legend of 
that name. 

Nyack, on the western side of the bay or river, is a 
pleasant and thriving place, between which and New- 



AND ITS VICINITY. 51 

York, a steamboat plies daily. Here Tappan Bay spreads 
to its greatest width, presenting a noble expanse of water. 

Rockland Lake, 2 or 3 miles northwest of Nyack, 
is a picturesque sheet of the purest water, from which 
large quantities of ice are annually sent to the New- York 
market. 

Sing-Sing is handsomely situated on the east bank of 
the Hudson river. It has four landings, from which 
steamboats and vessels ply daily to and from the city of 
New- York, a distance of 33 miles. The main part of 
the village is situated on high and uneven ground, rising 
180 feet above tide water, and overlooking Tappan and 
Haverstraw Bays, the Hudson and Crcton rivers, and 
the surrounding country, including a distant view of the 
Palisades and the Highlands. Sing- Sing was incorporated 
in 1813, and now contains about 2,500 inhabitants. This 
village derives its name from the Indian words " Ossin- 
Sing," meaning in their language, the place of stone. It 
is now celebrated for its marble quarries, which are work- 
ed to a great extent by the state prison convicts, who have 
here erected 2 large prisons, a keeper's house and several 
ranges of work shops, from materials found on the state 
farm ; where is also located a silver mine, which was 
worked to some extent previous to the Revolution^ and a 
copper mine which has been more recently worked. The 
marble found in this vicinity, is of a medium quality and 
almost inexhaustible ; large quantities are annually quar- 
ried and sent to the city of New- York and other places. 

The Mount Pleasant State Prison, situated about 
half a mile south of the village of Sing-Sing, contained 
in 1840, 827 male and female convicts, of whom 60 were 
females. The prison grounds consist of 130 acres of land, 
lying between the villages of Sing-Sing and Sparta ; being 
bounded on the east by the Highland turnpike, and on the 



62 HUDSON RIVER 

west by the Hudson river, which here affords a depth of 
twelve feet of water at the landing. The main prison 
building is four hundred and eighty- four feet in length, 
north and south, and forty-four feet in width, fronting 
westerly on the Hudson, being 5 stories in height and con- 
taining 1,000 cells ; in front and rear are located work 
shops of different kinds, which, together with the keeper's 
house, are all built of rough dress marble. Attached to 
the prison building on the south, is a chapel, hospital, 
kitchen, storehouses, &c. A new prison for female con- 
victs stands on elevated ground, and is built of marble in 
the Ionic order. 

Teller's Point, about a mile north of Sing-Sing, 
separates Tappan from Haverstraw Bay. It projects 
southerly into the river more than a mile, immediately 
above the confluence of the Croton river, with the Hud- 
son. On the opposite side of the river, rises Verdreitje^s 
Hook, a bold headland 663 feet high, forming a beautiful 
feature in the landscape. 

Haverstraw Bay, is another expansion of the Hud- 
son river, 2 to 3 miles wide and 6 miles long, terminating 
on the north at Verplank's and Stony Points. 

Haverstraw or Warren, lies on the west side of the 
bay or river, 35 miles from New-York, to which city a 
steamboat runs daily. 

Grassy Point, 2 miles above, on the same side of the 
river, is a convenient steamboat landing. 

Verplank's Point, on the east side of the river, 40 
miles north of the city of New- York is an excellent land- 
ing place, and memorable from its connection, in the Revo- 
lutionary war, with Stony Point on the opposite side. On 
the latter point is now a light house, erected on the site 
of the old fortification, which completely commanded the 
channel of the river. These points, where the river Con- 



AJVD ITS VICINITY. 53 

tracts to about half a mile in width, were the first im- 
portant positions north of the city of New- York at which 
the American forces attempted to defend the passage of 
the Hudson against the British, in the struggle for inde- 
pendence. During the winter months, when the river is 
closed with ice above, steamboats can often reach Ver- 
plank's Point from New- York, and save the traveller the 
fatigue of passing over a difficult part of the stage road 
between the cities of New- York and Albany. 

Caldwell's Landing, on the west side of the river, 
44 miles from New- York and 101 miles from Albany, is 
the first place at which steam passage boats of the large 
class touch on their upward trip, to land and receive pas- 
sengers. This landing is situated at the south entrance 
of the '' Highlands," and is connected by a steam ferry 
with 

Peekskill on the opposite side of the river, a large 
and thriving village, from which two or three steamboats 
run directly to the city of New-York, carrying large 
quantities of produce, manufactured articles, and pas- 
sengers. It was incorporated in 1827, and now contains 
2,000 inhabitants, 8 churches, 6 public houses, 30 stores, 
and about 250 dwellings. 

On Oak Hill, where is now situated the Peekskill 
Academy, a flourishing chartered institution, is a venerable 
oak tree on which was hung during the revolutionary war, 
two noted spies, Strang and Palmer. Peekskill was then 
the head-quarters of the American army under Gen. Put- 
nam, who here dated his laconic reply to Sir Henry Clin- 
ton, commander of the British forces in the city of New- 
York, who sent up a flag of truce, demanding the release 
of Edmund Palmer, a lieutenant of a tory regiment, who 
had been detected in the American camp. The following 
was the reply sent back by Putnam : 



54 HUDSON RIVER 

'' Head-Quurtcrs, 7th Avg. 1777. 
*'Edrnuii'l Palmer, an officer in the enemy's service, 
was taken as a spy, lurking within the American lines ; 
he has been tried as a spy, condemned as a spy, and shall 
be executed as a spy, and the flag is ordered to depart 
immediately. 

'' ISRAEL PUTNAM. 

'* P. S. He has been accordingly executed." 
Stage Lines east from Peekskill. 

A stage runs from Peekskill to Ridgefield, Conn, via 
Somers and North Salem, every Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday morning : leaving Peekskill at 8 o'clock A. M. 
The same stage leaves Ridgefield every Monday, Wed- 
nesday, and Friday morning. 

A stage runs from Peekskill to Carmel village, via 
Red Mills and Mahopack, every Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday j leaving Peekskill at 2 P. M., and Carmel the 
same days at 8 A. M. 

During summer, a stage leaves Peekskill every day for 
Mahopack Lake, and in the hottest of the season, when 
the lake is most visited, twice a day j leaving Peekskill 
at 12 M. and at 7 P. M. 

Mahopack Lake, is a beautiful sheet of water in the 
town of Carmel, Putnam county ; and is one of the chief 
sources of the Croton river. It is about one mile in 
diameter and embosoms two or three small islands. The 
waters abound with various kinds of fish of a fine flavor. 
It is a place of considerable resort, with good accommo- 
dations for visiters. 

At Fort Independence, opposite Caldwell's Landing, 
on the northeast, near the mouth of the Peekskill, a pub* 
lie house has recently been erected, which is intended for 
a summer retreat. The situation is delightful, facing down 
the river with an unobstructed view for many miles, 



ITS AND VICIKITY. 55 

while immediately in the rear rise the "Highlands" in 
majestic grandeur. It is ccntemplated to make this a 
regular steamboat landing, and also to construct a bridge 
across the mouth of the creek or bay, which separates it 
from the village of Peekskiil. 

On leaving Caldwell's landing, the river takes a sudden 
turn to the west for about a mile ; this reach having the 
local designation of the " Horse Race," and then re- 
sumes its northern course, passing between the bold, 
wooded, and overshadowing hills known as the "High- 
lands," or " Matteawan Mountains." This latter name, 
meaning "'the country of good fur," was given by the 
the Aborigines, and is a fine, distinctive and appropriate 
name for the whole group. 

The " Highlands," the grandest, and next to the 
Palisades, the most remarkable feature of the scenery of 
the Hudson, are about 16 miles in width, and extend in 
a southwest and northeast direction for seme 20 or 30 
miles, covering a part of the counties of Rockland and 
Orange, on the w^est side of the river, and Putnam and 
Dutchess on the east. Several of their summits reach aa 
elevation of 1,000 to 1,685 feet. This maybe considered 
classic ground, as many of the points or eminences in 
view from the river are celebrated in history for being the 
scene of stirring events during the struggle for American 
Independence, 1776 to 1783. 

The sites of old Fort Clinton ojid Montgomery , of revo- 
lutionary memory, are on the west side of the river, op- 
posite the lower Anthomfs Nose, 6 miles below West 
Point. These forts, deemed almost impregnable, were 
erected at this point for the defence of the river, which 
was also obstructed by chevaux-de-frise, boom and chains. 
On the 6th of Oct. 1777, they were attacked by a supe- 
rior British force under Sir Henry Clinton, and captured 



66 PIUDSON RIVER 

after a sharp resistance ; the garrison of 600 men being 
overpowered by a disciplined army 3,000 strong. The 
works were resolutely defended until dark, when the ene- 
my effected an entrance at several places, there not be- 
ing a sufficient number of soldiers in the fort to man the 
lines. 

West Point, is romantically situated on the westbanlc 
of the Hudson river, 52 miles from New-York and 93 
miles from Albany. It is the seat of the United States 
military academy, established by an act of Congress, in 
March, 1802 ; and the land ceded to the United States 
government by the state of New- York, 1826. Here are 
now erected two stone barracks, one of three and the 
other four stories in height, occupied by 250 cadets, which 
is the number authorized by law ; an academic hall, a 
large three story stone building, 275 feet in length, by 75 
feet in width, used for military exercises in winter, an3' 
as a depository of the chemical apparatus, m.odels of for- 
tification, artillery, architecture and machines and as re- 
citation and drawing rooms : a new and beautiful two 
story stone building, to be used for the library and philo- 
sophical apparatus, constructed in the Elizabethan style 
of architecture, and is 150 feet in length by 60 feet in 
width ; the north front has three towers suited for the as- 
tronomical apparatus; the centre tower is surmounted by 
a dome of 28 feet 10 inches in diameter, the whole of 
which revolves on its vertical axis, adapting it to the use 
of a large equatorial telescope ; a chapel, a hospital, a 
mess hall, two cavalry stables, several workshops and 
store-rooms, and seventeen separate dAvellings occupied 
by the officers of the institution. In addition to the above, 
here ara located a magazine, a laboratory, soldiers' bar- 
racks, a store, and about 25 dwelling houses, occupied by 
families connected with the military school ; in all con- 



AND ITS VICINITY. 67 

taining a population of about 900 souls. Here also is a 
convenient steamboat landing, and a well kept hotel^ cal- 
culated to accommodate about 100 visiters. 

No place in the Union probably, exceeds West Point in 
beauty of location and tlie stirring incidents connected 
with its early history, being '' hallowed by the footsteps 
of Washington anJ Kosciusko," during the revolutionary 
straggle — the interest in which, is continued to the pre- 
sent time by its being the residence and school of the fu- 
ture defenders of the Union. In 1777, immediately after 
the capture of Forts Clinton and Montgomery, by the 
British army. West Point was first occupied by the Ameri- 
can army, and fortified at the instance of Gov. George 
Clinton, of Revolutionarj'^ memory. At the present time are 
to be seen the remains of Forts Putnam and Arnold, 
(after the treason of the latter, called Fort Clinton,) 
which is situated on the extreme eastern point of this 
military position, 160 feet above tide water, Vv^hiie Fort 
Putnam is situated on Mount Independence, 1,000 yards 
southvrest, elevated about 500 feet above the river ; 
there are also numerous other redoubts and batteries, 
crowning the various eminences in the vicinity, built un- 
der the direction of the celebrated Kosciusko as engineer. 
In August, 17S0, Gen. Arnold was assigned to the com- 
mand of this important military station, extending from 
Fishkill to Yerplank's Point. On the 25th of September, 
he precipitately made his escape from his head-quarters, 
the Rohinson House, situated tv.'o miles below West Point, 
on the opposite side of the river, his treason having been 
discovered by the fortunate capture of Major Andre. 
From this period, to the close of the Revolutionary war 
in 1783, West Point was garrisoned by a strong division 
of the American army j after which, the garrison was 
reduced, and this location made a depot for the revolu- 

E 



58 HUDSON RIVER 

tionary armament and other military stores. In 1794, at 
the recommendation of Gen. Washington, a military 
school was commenced in a building which was burnt 
down two years thereafter, and the school suspended un- 
til 1802. 

There are now connected with the West Point Academy, 
thirty- four officers and professors, a company of artillery 
and a detachment of dragoons, besides the cadets, who 
generally remain here for a period of four years, in 
which time they are qualified to become subaltern officers 
of the several corps of the army. 

Visiters on landing at West Point, are required to en- 
ter their names on a slate, presented by a soldier on duty 
for that purpose ; it is immediately afterwards taken to 
the commander's quarters, who is thereby informed of all 
arrivals. The departures are also regulated in the same 
manner. No stranger should leave this place without 
visiting the public buildings ; Kosciusko's Monument, and 
a wild and romantic retreat near the water's edge, called 
'' Kosciusko's Garden," the ruins of old Fort Putnam, 
which commands a view of West Point, the Hudson 
river, and the surrounding mountain scenery. The Ce- 
metery, about half a mile north of the hotel, is also well 
worthy of a visit. On the south, tovs^ards Buttermilk 
Falls, about a mile distant, there is a pleasant road run- 
ning near the river, and most of the way through a beau- 
tiful grove of trees. In this vicinity, and most agreeably 
located, is an academy for young men, under the superin- 
tendence of Lieut. Kinsley, formerly an instructor in the 
West Point Military Academy. 

If the visiter tarries through the day at this attractive 
place, any time during the summer months, when the ho* 
tel is usually thronged with fashionable people from 



AND ITS VICINITY. fi9 

every section of the Union, he will have an opportunity 
to view West Point in all its loveliness. 

Cold Spring a mile or more above West Point, on 
the opposite side of the river, is a thriving manufactur- 
ing village. Here are situated the extensive iron works 
commonly known as the " West Point Foundry," and 
supposed to be on as broad n scale as any in the Union, 
and a machine shop, giving constant employment to about 
300 workmen. The largest kind of machinery for steam- 
boat and other purposes, and warlike implements, are 
here constructed. The ore on which the works depend, 
is found in the immediate vicinity ; and there is also a 
quarry of granite of a very superior quality, eas)' of ac- 
cess and inexhaustible. 

Beacon Hill and Bkeakneck, both on the east side 
of the river, are situated immediately above Cold Spring. 
The former, sometimes called the " Grand Sachem," is 
the highest peak of the Highlands, being elevated 1,685 
feet above the river. The latter presents the rocky pro- 
jection called the " Upper Anthomfs Nose." 

Crow's Nest and Butter Hill, are situated on the 
west side of the river. They rise abruptly from the wa- 
ter's edge, the latter, which is the more northerly peak, 
lifts its summit 1,520 feet above the Hudson j and the 
other is nearly as high, 

Pollopel's Island, is a mass of rock lying in the 
Hudson river, near its east shore, at the northern en- 
trance into the Highlands, 6 miles above West Point. 
Here the river begins to widen and expand to the width 
of more than a mile for some 5 or 6 miles, for which dis- 
tance it is sometimes called Newburgh Bay. 

Cornwall, Canterbury and New- Windsor, are 
small villages situated on the west side of the river, im- 
mediately above the Highlands. The last named village 



60 HUDSON RIVER 

being distinguished as the birth place of De Witt 
Clinton. 

Newburgh, 61 miles north of New-York and 84 south 
of Albany, is pleasantly situate J on rising ground, on the 
west bank of the river. It was incorporated in 1800, and 
now contains about 6,000 inhabitants, 1,000 dwelling 
houses, a court-house and jail, this being a half-shire of 
Orange county ; a theological seminary under the direc- 
tion of the Associate E-efonned Presbyterian denomina- 
tion ; an incorporated academy ; a high school, two fe- 
male seminaries and a number of select schools, all in a 
flourishing condition j two large public libaries ; eleven 
churches of different denominations ; three banking houses, 
fourteen hotels and taverns ; 150 stores of different kinds ; 
nine store-houses ; five freighting establishments ; four 
steamboats and two freight barges, running to and from 
the citj^ of New-York, besides a number of sloops trad- 
ing to different places on the Hudson river, and schooners 
and other craft running to southern and eastern ports, al- 
together transporting an immense amount of lumber, coal, 
plaster, and agricultural and manufactured products ; two 
good steamboats also, are attached to the ferry between 
this place and Fishkill on the opposite side of the river, 
which is here about one mile in width. The location of 
Newburgh, in addition to its romantic beauty and healthi- 
ness, is peculiarly favorable as a place of business, being 
surrounded by a rich grazing and agricultural region, 
celebrated for butter and live stock. The Delaware and 
Hudson Railroad, the route of which is located and 
partly graded, com.mences at the village of Newburgh, 
and runs through the county of Orange into the state of 
New- Jersey. It is intended to tap the coal beds of Penn- 
sylvania, intersecting the New-York and Erie Railroad 
at or near Goshen. 



AND ITS VICIIVITY. 61 

Newburgh was for a period the head- quarters of Gen. 
Washington, and at the close of the Revolutionary war, 
the army was here disbanded, June 23, 1783. The cfele- 
ebx-ated Neiohurgh Letters, addressed to the officers and 
men of the army, were here dated, supposed to have been 
written by the late Gen. John Armstrong. 

It is proposed to erect a suitable column to the memory 
of Washington, in front of the old stone house, in the 
south part of this village, where his family resided ; it 
is to be from 80 to 100 feet high, constructed of white 
marble, or granite, at an estimated cost of $50,000. It 
will be in plain sight from the water, commanding one of 
the finest prospects on the Hudson. 

Stages leave Newburgh for Bingharaton, 122 miles dis- 
tant, where they connect with lines running north and 
south, and with a line continuing west, through the 
southern tier of counties, to Barcelona, on Lake Erie. 
Stagk Eotjte from Newburgh to Barcelona. 

MUes.\ Miles. 

Montgomery, 13 Factoryville, 8 162 

Bloomingburgh,. . . . 12 251 Athens, Pa 3 165 

Wurtsboro,.r 5 SOIElmira, 20 185 

MoNTicELLO, 10 40 Corning, 16 201 



Bethel, 10 50 

Delaware River, ... 10 60 

Mount Pleasant, Pa. 20 80 

New-Milford, 22 102 

Great Bend, 4 106 

BlNGHAMTON, 16 122 

Union, 6 128 

Nanlicoke, 9 137 

OwEGo, 7 144 

Smithboro, 10 154 



Painted Post, 3 204 

Bath, 18 222 

Howard, 12 234 

Hornellsville, 10 244 

Angelica, 20 264 

Franklinville, 25 289 

Ellicottville,. ... 10 299 

Seelysburgh, 15 314 

Mayville, 35 349 

Barcelona, 8 357 



FisHKiLL Landing, on the east side of the river, di. 
rectly opposite Newburgh, with which it is connected by 
a steam ferry, is a thriving village containing about 900 
inhabitants, and surrounded by delightful country resi- 
dences. 



<52 HUDSOW RIVER. 

Matteawan, an extensive and celebrated mannfac- 
turing village, is situated on the Fishkill, a mile and a 
half east of Fishkill Landing. 

Glenham, 3 miles fi'om the landing, is also a cele- 
brated manufacturing village, celebrated for its superior 
woollen cloths. 

The village of Fishkill, is pleasantly situated on a 
plain, 5 miles east of Fishkill Landing, and 65 miles 
north of the city of Nev^-York, on the great post road to 
Albany. This road, from Peekskill to Fishkill, a dis- 
tance of 19 miles, traverses the Highlands, and is re- 
markable for its formidable hills and the vi^ild scenery of 
this mountain route. As you approach Fishkill from the 
south, the character of the scenery suddenly changes to 
that of a fertile and cultivated farming district. 

During the Revolutionary war, this village was for a 
period the head-quarters of the American army ; the 
church is still standing here, in which Enoch Crosby, the 
spy of Revolutionary memory, was confined for a time : 
his escape being admirably described in Cooper's ro- 
mance of the " Spy," under the assumed name of Har- 
9ey Birch. 

New-Hamburgh, 6 miles north of Newburgh, is a 
steamboat landing on the east side of the river, where 
Wappinger's creek, an important mill stream, empties 
into the Hudson, 

Hampton" is another landing nearly opposite, being 
connected with New-Hamburgh by a ferry. One or two 
miles north is the village of Marlborough. 

Barnegat, a few miles above on the east side of the 
river, is celebrated for the manufacture of large quanti- 
ties of lime. 

Milton, 9 miles above Newburgh, and 4 miles below 
Poughkeepsie, is a convenient steamboat landing ; the 
village stands about half a mile back from the riven 



AND ITS VICINITY. 63 

PotTGttKEEPSiE, is handsomdy situated on the east side 
of the Hudson, about equi-distant between the cities of 
New-York and Albany, being 74 miles from the lormer, 
and 71 from the latter, by water. It was incorporated 
in ISOl, and now contains about 7,500 inhabitants, mostly 
engaged in mercantile and manufacturing pursuits ; 1,000 
dwelling houses, many of them tasty edifices ; a court- 
house, and jail and county poor-house ; a splendid colle- 
giate building ; the Dutchess Academy ; tw^o female 
seminaries, besides several select schools ; a lyceum and 
reading room ; tw^o public markets : one Presbyterian, 
one Congregational, two Episcopal, one Baptist, two 
Methodist, one Dutch Reformed, one Universalist, one 
Roman Catholic, and one African Church, and two 
Friends' meeting houses; three banking houses, a sav- 
ing's institution, and an incorporated company called the 
" Dutchess Whaling Company," who own one or two 
ships engaged in the whale trade. Poughkecpsie contains 
several well kept hotels and taverns ; 25 dry good stores, 
50 groceries, 3 bookstores, besides a large number of 
other different kinds of stores and shops ; also two brewe- 
ries, one of which is very extensive, perhaps the largest 
in the state, being capable of making 30,000 barrels of 
beer annually, and an extensive pin manufacture. Here 
are owned three steamboats, three freight barges, and 
eight sloops, engaged in transporting produce and mer- 
chandise to and from the New-York market, and other 
places on the river. No place on the Hudson exceeds 
this village for beauty of location ; it is surrounded by 
one of the richest agricultural districts in the Union, and 
may justly be ranked as the queen of villages in the Em- 
pire State. 

The Poughkeepsie Collegiate School, situated on Col- 
lege Hill, about half a mile northeast of the compact 



64 HUDSON RIVER 

part of the village, is unrivalled in its location, command- 
ing an extensive prospect of the river and surrounding 
country, which cannot fail to excite the admiration of 
every lover of picturesque scenery; in addition to the 
collegiate building, which is a splendid edifice, here has 
recently heen erected an extensive gymnasium. This is a 
well established and flourishing institution^ conducted en 
philosophical principles. 

Poughkeepsie, is a corruption of the Indian word 
Apokecpsing , signifying safe harbor. It was early set- 
tled, and in 1788, the state convention met here to ratify 
the federal Constitution of the United States ; previous to 
that date the state legislature frequently convened in this 
village, which has long been considered a favorite place 
of residence. 

The Landing opposite Poughkeepsie, is in the town of 
New-Paltz, by which name it is called. A ferry here 
crosses the Hudson ; a short distance from the river is a 
scattered settlement. Three or four miles above Pough- 
keepsie, is a turn in the river called Crur,i-Elbow. 

Hyde Park, 80 miles from New-York and 65 from 
Albany, is pleasantly situated on the east side of the 
Hudson. The principal settlement is about half a mile 
from the landing. It contains 3 churches, 2 public houses, 
several stores and shops, and 50 or 60 dwelling houses. 
No section of the country between New-York and Alba- 
ny, excels this part of Dutchess county for the beauty of 
its country residences ; among which, the elegant man- 
sion and grounds of the late Dr. David Hosack, were 
conspicuous. This fine seat is now occupied by Mr. 
Langdon. It appears to great advantage from the river, 
standing on elevated ground, a short distance north of 
the steamboat landing. At Staatsburgh, 5 miles north of 
the village of Hyde Park, is situated the country resi^ 



AND ITS VICIIVITY. 65 

(lence of the late Gov. Morgan Lewis. Esopus lleadows, 
as they are called, 6 or 7 miles above Hyde Park, are ex- 
tensive marshes, covered vv'itli water during high tide; 
Ihey lie opposite the town of Esopus on the west side of 
the river. Pelham is a small landing on the same side, 
a little south of the mea Jows. 

RoNBOUT, 89 miles nortli of the city of New- York, is 
situated at the mouth of a large stream of the same name, 
where there is a lighthouse built by the United States 
government. This is a place of considerable trade, con- 
taining an active population of about 1,500 inhabitants ; 
many of whom are engaged in navigation, and others are 
furnished employment by the Delaware and Hudson Ca- 
nal, which terminates at Eddyville, 2 miles above Ron- 
dout. The canal is 108 miles in length, extending in 
connection with a railroad of 16 miles, to the coal 
mines of Pennsylvania. From the mouth of Rondout 
creek a number of steamboats, freight barges, and sloops 
are regularly employed in carrying an immense quantity 
of Lacka waxen coal, lumber, lime, and produce of diifer- 
ent kinds. Stages run from this place to the village of 
Kingston, and to the Landing opposite Rhinebeck, where 
the line boats land and receive passengers several times 
daily. 

Kingston Landing, is situated on the w^est side of the 
Hudson river, 90 miles north of the city of New- York ; 
this landing was formerly called Columbus Point. A 
steam ferry boat here plies across the river. 

The village of Kingston is handsomely situated on a 
plain, through which flov/s the Esopus creek, 3 miles 
west of the landing on the river. It was incorporated in 
1805, and now contains about 2,300 inhabitants, 300 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 Reformed Dutch, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist and 
1 Methodist church ; a court house and jail. 2 bankin» 



iSiQ HUDSON RIVER 

houses, an incorporated academy, in a flourishing condi- 
tion, and a female seminary ; also several well kept pub« 
lie houses. Stages leave this place three times a week 
for Delhi, Delaware county ; a tri- weekly line also leaves 
for EUenville, and accommodation stages are in constant 
attendance, and run to the several steamboats that land 
and receive passengers at Rondout and Kingston Land- 
ing. Kingston, anciently called Esopus, was early set- 
tled by the Dutch, many of whose descendants now re- 
side in this vicinity. 

In April, 1777, the first convention of the Representa- 
tives of the state of New- York met in the village of 
Kingston, and formed the old Constitution of the state, and 
on the 16th day of October following, it was taken and 
burnt by the British army, under the command of Gen. 
Vaughan, while marching to the relief of Gen. Bur- 
goyne, who was obliged to surrender to the American 
army on the following day at Schuylerville. Imme- 
mediately after destroying the village, the British troops 
precipitately retreated to their vessels lying in the Hud- 
son river, and returned to the city of New-York. Some 
of the ruins of the stone buildings were standing as late 
as 1836, when the last of the walls were taken down, and 
the Kingston banking house erected on the same spot. 

Rhinebeck Landing, 90 miles from New-York and 
55 from Albany, is situated on the east side of the river. 
In this vicinity are located a number of beautiful coun- 
try residences overlooking the Hudson. 

The village of Rhinebeck is handsomely situated on a 
plain, 2 miles east of the landing. It is incorporated, 
and flow contains about 1,000 inhabitants. This vicinity 
was early settled by Dutch families, many of whose de- 
Bcendants still retain the habits and language of their 



AND ITS VICINITY. 67 

forefathers, and are a frugal and prosperous class of 
citizens. 

Barrytown, or Redhook Lower Landing, also on the 
east side of the Hudson, is 97 miles from New- York, and 
is surrounded by several delightful country residences, 
The Catskill Mountains, in the west, at a distance of 
some 12 or 15 rniles, may now be seen from the river 
to great advantage ; and the Catskill Mountain House, 
elevated nearly 3,000 feet above the Hudson, is distinctly 
visible in clear weather. It stands near the precipitous 
front of a rockj plateau, of a few acres in extent, called 
Pine Orchard, from the scattered pines which formerly 
grew out from the fissures of the rock. It commands a 
vast and noble prospect, and is a most refreshing retreat 
from the heats of summer. 

TivoLi, or Upper Redhook Landing, 100 miles from 
New-York and 45 miles from Albany, is a regular steam- 
boat landing for both day and night boats. In this 
vicinity are also a great number of beautiful country re- 
sidences. The villages of Upper and Lower Redhook, 
are situated 3 or 4 miles from the river, on the stage road. 
In the Hudson, near Tivoli, are annually taken during 
the months of May and June, large quantities of shad and 
herring. A steam ferry-boat here plies across the river, 
landing on the west side near the iron works at Sau- 
gerties. 

Saugerties, which is a large manufacturing village 
by the chartered name of Ulster, situated on the Esopus 
creek, near its entrance into the Hudson, where is a water- 
fall affording an immense hydraulic power, much of 
which is advantageously used in driving different kinds 
of machinery. The village contains about 2,000 inhabi- 
tants, 300 dwelling houses, 5 churches, and 3 or 4 public 
houses. A steamboat and several sloops run from the 



68 HUDSON RIVER 

mouth of the creek, although the usual steamboat land- 
ing for the passage boats is at 

Bristol, or Malden, 2 miles above Redhook, and 1^ 
miles from Saugerties. A stage runs to and from the 
landing to the village, on the arrival and departure of the 
steam passage boats. 

East and West Camp, a few miles above Bristol, 
are old Dutch settlements on both sides of the river. 

The village of Catskill, 111 miles from New- York 
and 34 miles from Albany, is situated on both sides of 
Catskill creek, near its junction with the Hudson; the prin- 
cipal street being about half a mile back from the steam- 
boat landing. It was incorporated in 1806, and now con- 
tains about 2,800 inhabitants, 400 dwelling houses, a 
court-house and jail, 2 banking houses, 5 churches, and 
several public houses. Here is owned a steamboat and 
4 barges, besides several sloops employed in transport- 
ing produce and merchandise to and from the city of 
New- York and different places on the river. A ferry 
boat plies across the river from the landing at this place, 
to Oak Hill, Columbia county. The Catskill and Cana- 
joharie Railroad commences at this village, and is finish- 
ed a distance of 26 miles. A daily line of stages leave 
Catskill for Delhi, Delaware county, and two tri- weekly 
lines for Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga lake, and Spra- 
ker's Basin in Montgomery county; the latter uniting 
with the Erie Canal and western railroads. A stage runs 
from Catskill to Hudson, via Athens, twice daily, and a 
stage runs semi- weekly to Prattsville, via Hunter and 
Lexington. Stages also run daily during the warm 
weather from the steamboat landing to the 

Catskill Mountain House, at the Phie Orchard, 
distant about 12 miles from Catskill. The following is 



AND ITS VICINITY. 69 

a glowing description of this well known^ and charming 
eummer retreat : 

" Pine Orchard, forming a part of the Catskill moun- 
tain range, is situated about 12 miles from Catskill, 
Greene county. It is elevated 3,000 feet above the tide 
waters of the Hudson, which noble stream^ and the sur- 
rounding country, it overlooks for a great distance, af- 
fording a varied and extensive vievf of the greatest in- 
terest. On the summit is erected a large and commodious 
public house, called the Mountain House, for the accomo- 
dation of visiters, who resort here in great numbers 
during the summer months. In this vicinity are other 
mountain peaks of still greater elevation, and waterfalls 
of the most wild and romantic character, altogether form- 
ing unrivalled attractions, which are well worthy of a 
visit. From this lofty eminence all inequalities of sur- 
face are overlooked. A seemingly endless succession of 
woods and waters, farms and villages, towns and cities, 
are spread out as upon a boundless map. Far in the east 
rise the Taghkanic mountains, and the highlands of Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts. To the left, and at a still 
greater distance, the Green mountains of Vermont stretch 
away to the north, and their blue summits and the blue 
sky mingle together. The beautiful Hudson, studded 
with islands, appears narrowed in the distance, with 
steamboats almost constantly in sight,- while vessels of 
every description spreading their white canvass to the 
breeze, are moving rapidly over its surface, or idly loit- 
ering in the calm. These may be traced to the distance 
of nearly seventy miles vfith the naked eye ; and again 
at times all below is enveloped in dark clouds and rolling 
mist, which, driven about by the wind, is constantly as- 
suming new, wild and fantastic forms. From Pine Orch- 
ard, a ride or walk of a mile or two brings you to the 



70 HUDSON RIVER 

KaaterskiU falls. Here the outlet of two small lakes 
leaps down a perpendicular fall of 130 feet, then glides 
away through a channel worn in the rock, to a second 
fall of 80 feet. Below this it is lest in the dark ravine 
through which it finds its way to the valley of the 
Catskill." 

The City of Hudson, situate on the east side of the 
river, 116 miles from New- York, and 29 miles from Al- 
bany, is a place of much trade and importance. It lies 
near the head of ship navigation, and was formerly cele- 
brated for being largely engaged in the West India trade, 
and more recently in the whale fishery. Hudson v^as 
first settled in 1783, by Thomas Jenkins and others, most 
of whom were Quakers, from Massachusetts and Rhode 
Island. The ciiy was chartered in 1785, and is divided 
into 2 wards ; in 1840, it contained 5,670 inhabitants, 
about 800 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, with a 
beautiful white marble front, surmounted by a domej 8 
churches of different denominations, including 2 Friends' 
meeting houses ; 2 banks, 2 public markets, and 5 hotels. 
The Hudson Academy at this place, is an old chartered 
institution, and the Hudson Female Seminary is a new 
and flourishing boarding school for young ladies ; besides 
which there are several schools, both male and female. 
The Franklin Library Association is a young and popular 
institution, to which is attatched a large library and phi- 
losophical apparatus. The Hudson Lunatic Asylum is 
situated on State- street, on the north side of the city, facing 
the court house on the south. This useful and flourishing 
institution, under the control of the proprietors, Drs. S. 
and G. H. White, contains at present about 40 patients. 
Since the opening of this institution, up to Jan. 1841, a pe- 
riod of eleven years, 503 patients have been admitted, most 
of whom have been permanently cured, or greatly bene- 



AND ITS VICINITY. 71 

\ 

fited. The city is supplied by pure and wholesome 
water by a chartered aqueduct company, who bring the 
water in iron pipes from a spring about 2 miles distant. 
The Hudson and B&rkshire Rail-road commences at this 
place, and extends to West Stockbridge, Mass. a distance 
of 34 miles; running within 7 miles of Lebanon Springs, 
which are much resorted to during the summer months. 
The New-York and Albany steamboats land and receive 
passengers several times daily, during the season of navi- 
gation, in addition to the passage and freight boats which 
run to and from New-York direct, thus affording a speedy 
communication between the cities of New-York and Bos- 
ton, a total distance by this route of about 300 miles, 
extending through an interesting country. 

A steam ferry boat crosses the river from Hudson to 
Athens, a chartered village on the west shore contain- 
ing about 1,300 inhabitants. 

Four Mile Point, 120 miles above New-York, is 
considered the head of ship navigation on the Hud- 
son. Kinderhook ci'eek here enters the river on the east 
side, and near its mouth is situated the manufacturing 
village of Columbiaville. 

CoxsACKiE Landing, 8 miles above Hudson, is situa- 
ted on the west side of the Hudson 22 miles below 
the city of Albany. Here are three seperate land- 
ings within the distance of a mile, altogether contain- 
ing about 1,200 inhabitants, 150 dwelling houses, 1 
Dutch Reformed, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist church ; 
an academy, 4 public houses, 16 stores of different kinds 
and 15 warehouses; 1 steam plaster mill and 1 furnace j 
I^iip yard and 2 dry docks for building and repairing 
vessels; 19 extensive brick yai'ds where are manufactured 
yearly about 30 millions of bricks. This is also a conve- 



72 HUDSON RIVER 

nient steamboat landing, at which steamboats touch seve- 
ral times daily, during the season of navigation. 

The village of Coxsackie, 1 mile west of the landing, 
contains about 500 inhabitants, and is surrounded by fer- 
tile lands, extending to the base of theHelderberg moun- 
tains. 

Stuyvesant, 4 miles further on the east side of the 
river, is a flourishing place of business, from which 
large quantities of produce are annually sent to the New- 
York market, the country in the interior being justly 
celebrated for its fertility. 

A short distance north is the steamboat landing for the 
above place, and for the village of Kinderhook situated 
about 5 miles east of the river, and noted for the beauty 
of its location. It is the birthplace of ex-President 
Van Buren, and his present residence is a pleasant seat 
about two miles south of the village. 

New Baltimore, 4 miles above, on the west side of the 
Hudson, and 14 miles from Albany, is a village of about 
400 inhabitants. Here is a convenient steamboat land- 
ing, where the passage boats usually land and receive 
passengers. 

CoEYMANs, on the west side of the river, 12 miles be- 
low Albany, is the last landing the boats make on their 
upward trips. The village contains about' 700 inhabi- 
tants, and here are owned several sloops trading with 
the New- York market. Barren Island, lying imme- 
diately below the village of Coeymans, is on the south 
bounds of the old colony of Rensselaerwyck, and was for- 
tified and garrisoned by one of the early Patroons, in IQM. 
All foreign traders were here obliged to come to, and 
learn the terms on which the port of the colony might be 
entered. It now presents a rocky and sterile appearance 
being well adapted for the purposes for which it was ori- 



AND ITS VICINITY. 73 

ginally oecTipied, as it completely commands the channel 
of the river. 

Castleton, 4 miles above Coeymans and 8 miles from 
Albany, is on the east side of the river. Here is forming 
a bar in the channel of the river, which is very injurious 
to navigation. 

The Overslaugh, 3 miles below^ the city of Albany, 
has heretofore formed the principal obstruction to the 
free navigation of the Hudson on its tide waters. Here 
were several bars or flats, with narrow channels, afford- 
ing at low tides but a small depth of water — this obstruc- 
tion, however, has of late been mostly removed by an 
expenditure by the United States Government, the depth 
of the water being materially increased, the channel 
made straight, and the navigation much improved, 

Gbeenbitsh, opposite the south part of the city of 
Albany, with which it is connected by a steam ferry boat, 
contains about 900 inhabitants. Immediately above may 
be seen the new depot and buildings attached to the Bos- 
ton Railroad. From th« depot at Greenbush to the city 
of Troy, a distance of 6 miles, a branch railroad is now 
in progress of construction, 

ALBANY, the capital of the State, and one of the 
oldest cities in the Union, is eligibly situated on the west 
side oftheHuQson river, 145 miles north of the city of New- 
York; 325 mites by railroad, east of Buffalo ; 200 west 
-of Boston, and 250 south of Montreal. It was originally 
called " Beaver Wyck" (i, e. Beaver Town,) and after- 
ward '' Williamstadt." It received its present name in 
1664, in honor of James, duke of York and Albany, af- 
terwards James II., in whose reign the original city char- 
ter was granted by Governor Dongan, July 22, 1686, and 
the government vested in ''The Mayor, Aldermen and 
Commonalty of the city of Albany," consisting of the 

F 



^ 



74 HUDSON RIVER 

Mayor, Recorder, ten Aldermen and ten Assistants. 
The charter has been materially altered by recent enact- 
ments of the Legislature ; the assistant aldermen are 
merged in ten aldermen, but the corporate name is still 
preserved. It is now divided into 10 vrards. In 1840, its 
population was 33,721. 

It is indebted for its prosperity to the enterprise of its 
inhabitants, and the impulse given to its trade by the Erie 
and Champlain canals, which unite about 9 miles to the 
north, and enter the Hudson river at the north end of the 
city. A basin has been formed in front of the city, pro- 
tected from the river by a pier one mile and a quarter 
in length, furnishing a safe harbor, for vessels and se- 
curing them from injury by the ice, which in the spring 
freshets, comes down the river in immense quantities, 
sometimes causing great damage. The city is command- 
ing in its situation, and appears to great advantage from 
the river. There are three ravines running from east to 
west, known as the Foxes Kill, the Rutten Kill, and the 
Beaver Kill, on each side of which the land is high, be- 
ing at an elevation of from 140 to 160 feet above, and 
gradually ascending from the river. The view from 
either of the heights is picturesque in the highest de- 
gree. To the north may be seen the city of Troy and 
the adjacent villages, and in the distance tite hills of Ver- 
mont. To the east the beautiful extent of country lying 
beyond the Hudson river, and to the south the Helder- 
bergs, and Catskill mountains. The public buildings are 
of the most beautiful and tasteful character. The Capi- 
tol, occupied by the legislature and the state courts ; the 
State Hall, just completed, for the accommodation of the 
public offices; the City Hall, occupied for city and county 
purposes, and by the United States Courts ; and the Al- 
bany Academy, having 300 pupils, face the public 



AND ITS VICINITY. 15 

square at the head of State-street. This square is form- 
ed by the Capitol and Academy Parks, which are enclosed 
with substantial iron fences, erected on stone bases, and 
are laid out with walks lined with ornamental trees of 
the choicest species. A more delightful spot in the sum- 
mer, is not to be found in any inland city in the Union. 
A few rods south of the square, on Eagle-street, is the 
County Jail and the Medical College. This College was 
incorporated in 1839, and occupies a building granted to 
it by the corporation of the city, admirably adapted for its 
purposes. The College already possesses one of the 
most valuable museums in the country, which has recent- 
ly been greatly enlarged and enriched, by specimens im- 
ported direct from Germany and France. In addition to 
the Academy spoken of, there is a Female Academy, 
which has annually from 300 to 350 pupils. This insti- 
tution ranks high, and occupies a handsome and con- 
venient edifice in North Pearl-street. Connected with 
it is the Albany Library, numbering 9,000 volumes. 
The Albany Exchange, situated at the foot of State- 
street, is a large and commodious building, constructed of 
granite. It is occupied for stores, offices of professional 
men, and the post-office. The Young Men's Association, 
established for "Mutual Improvement," also occupies 
rooms in this buildingj it was the pioneer institution of 
its kind in this slate, and embraces all ranks and profes- 
sions, now numbering 1,500 members. It has an exten- 
sive reading room, supplied with the leading newspapers 
of this country and Englandj also a room, furnished with 
the most popular and standard periodicals and reviews, 
native and foreign; an excellent library of about 3,200 
volumes, and a lecture room capable of seating 300 per- 
sons, in which two lectures a week are delivered, from 
the first of December to the first of March. Strangers 



76 HUDSOIf RIVER 

have free access to all except the lecture room and library. 
There are 4 Presbyterian churches, 1 Associate do., 3 
Dutch Reformed^ 1 Unitarian, 4 Methodist Episcopal, 1 
African do., 3 Baptist, 1 colored do., 2 Lutheran, 3 
Episcopalian, 1 Universalist, 3 Roman Catholic, 1 Inde- 
pendent church, 1 Mission House, 2 Jewish Synagogues, 
1 Bethel and 1 Friends' Meeting House. 

The old State Hall, recently occupied for state offi- 
ces, is converted into a museum for the reception of the 
geological cabinet formed under the direction of the 
State geological surveyors. The New- York State Agri- 
cultural Society, also here hold their meetings in a room 
reserved for that purpose. The other public institutions 
whose meetings are held at Albany, are the New- York 
State Temperance Society, and the State Medical Society. 
There are also, in the city, in addition to those men- 
tioned, various benevolent, religious and scientific institu- 
tions ; among them the Albany Institute, with a valuable 
library and extensive museum, occupying a room in the 
Albany Academy. 

The principal hotels in Albany, are, the American Ho- 
tel, 100 State-street J City Hotel, 23 Broadway; Clin- 
ton Hotel, 19 South Pearl-street; Columbian Hotel, 161 
Market-street; Congress Hall, Park Place, near the 
Capitol; Delavan Temperance House, 77 Broadway; 
Eagle Tavern, 105 Market- street; Eastern Raih'oad Ho- 
tel, 155 and 157 Market-street; Fort Orange Hotel, 153 
Market- street; Franklin House, 136 and 13S State-street; 
Mansion House, 24 Broadway; Montgomery Hall, 56 
Market-street; Plough Hotel, 126 State-street; Railroad 
Hotel, Stanwix Hall, corner of Broadway and Maiden 
Lane; Railroad House, 266 Market-street; United States 
House, 117 Market- street; United States Hotel, 91 Wash- 
ington-street; Washington Hall, 29 South Pearl-street. 



AND ITS VICINITY. . 77 

The trade, commerce and manufactures of Albany are 
very considerable j in the year 1842, 27 steamboats and 
51 tow boats plied regularly between Albany and New- 
York and the intermediate places on the Hudson river. 
The Mohawk and Hudson Railroad, among the first 
roads built in the country, and connected with the Utica 
and Schenectady and Saratoga and Schenectady Rail- 
roads, terminates at Albany. An arrangement is about 
to be made by which the inclined planes, which form so 
great an objection to this road^ are to be dispensed with. 
The Albany and West Stockbridge Railroad connects the 
Western Railroad at the state line between Massachu- 
setts and New- York, forming a continuous line of rail- 
roads from Albany to Boston. In addition to the rail- 
road and steamboat lines, there are eighteen lines of 
stages running from Albany to different places. It is es- 
timated that 1,100 passengers arrive and depart daily. 

The termination of the canals and railroads at Albany, 
renders it the centre of trade and trans-shipment, and has 
opened to the enterprise of her merchants and artisans 
an extent of country unsurpassed in its wealth and re- 
sources. 

Distances from Albany to Boston, by Railroad : 

To West Stockbridge 38 Miles. 

State Line to Pittsfield, Western R.R.) 11 49 " 
Springfield, do. > 53 102 '' 

Worcester, do. ) 54 156 '' 

Boston and Worcester Railroad, 44 200 " 

Distances from Albany to the City of Wash- 
ington, by Steamboat and Railroad Route: 

New- York, by steamboat, 145 Miles. 

Philadelphia, 6?/ raiZ-road, 86 231 '' 

Baltimore, " 96 327 '' 

Washington, " 38 365 " 





16 


Miles 


77 


93 




53 


146 




26 


172 




79 


251 




43 


294 





78 HUDSON RIVER 

Distances from Albany to Buffalo, by Railroad; 

Mohawk and Hudson Railroad, 
Utica and Schenectady " 
Syracuse and Ulica, '^ 

Auburn and Syracuse, " 
Auburn and Rochester, " 

Tonawanda, via Batavia, 

Attica and Buffalo, 31325 " 

Distances from Albany to Montreal, via Sara- 
toga Springs and Lake Champlain : 

To Troy, by stage, 

Ballston Spa, by rail-road, 24 

Saratoga Springs, *' 7 

Whitehall, by stage, 39 

St. John's, Canada, steamboat, 150 226 

La Prairie, by rail-road, 15 241 

Montreal, by steamboat, 9 250 



6 Miles 


30 


li 


37 


n 


76 


(( 



We copy the foliovs^ing extract relating to the early 
history of Albany: 

'' The younger race of fashionables and semi-fashiona- 
bles know Albany, or affect to knoAv it, merely as a big 
city-looking place, full of taverns and hotels, where they 
land from the steamboat, on their way to Saratoga, Ni- 
agara or Quebec. Another set of less locomotive good 
folks, especially in New- York and Philadelphia, have no 
notions about it, but those derived from the old tradition, 
ary jokes upon its aocient Schepens and Schoutens, its 
burly Burgomasters, ' its lofty spires glittering with tin 
and hospitable boards smoking with sturgeon.' 

" But in honest truth, there are few cities of the size 
any where, which can exhibit a greater or a more agree- 
able variety of society and manners. In Albany may be 
lound talent and learning, accomplishment and beauty. 
The towns of Europe of the same size and relative im 
portance, can in this respect bear no sort of comparison 
with it. Then, too, its situation, the prospect from its 



AND ITS VICINITY. 79 

higher grounds and streets abound in scenes meet for 
romantic fiction. Albany is rich also in more sober, but 
equally interesting recollections of our national history. 
There, (to use the once familiar personification in which 
Indian oratory delighted to speak of the French and Eng- 
lish governments,) Corlaer and Ononthio were wont to 
meet and plant the tree of peace, or else extinguish their 
council fire and part in wrath. There, about the middle 
of the last century, (1751,) the governors of the several 
provinces met the chiefs of the Six Nations^ and the am- 
bassadors of the Catawbas and other southern tribes, 
and buried the hatchet between the whole Indian race on 
this, continent, and planted the tree of peace in Fort 
Orange.* There, three years after, was held that first 
General Congress, in which the earliest arrangements for 
national defence were made, and where, by one of those 
remarkable coincidences with which the hand of Provi- 
dence has legibly inscribed the evidence of its own work- 
ings in every part of our national history, upon the fourth 
of July, 1754^ Benjamin Franklin, and other patriots des- 
tined to the highest honors of their country, signed the 
first plan of American Union, and proclaimed to the 
colonies that they were one people, fit to govern and able 
to protect themselves. Why need I speak of the events 
of the Revolution? At Albany, in the most eventful 
periods of that struggle, Montgomery, and Schuyler, and 
Gates, and the elder Clinton, in turns planned or directed 
the operations of war, while the civil wisdom and moral 
courage of Jay, gave new confidence to public spirit, and 
fresh vigor to our counsels." 

*On the spot where now stands the house formerly occupied by the 
venerable Simeon Pe Witt, for many years Surveyor-General of the 
State, and at present known as the Fort Orange Hotel, situated in 
Market-street, near Lydius-street. 



80 HUDSON RIVER 

ALBANY, NINETY YEARS SINCE. 

The foDowing description of Albany, is taken from 
Mrs. Grant's interesting '' Memoirs of an American 
Lady." 

''The city of Albany was stretched along the banks 
of the Hudson 5 one very wide and long street lay paral- 
lel to the river, the intermediate space between it and the 
shore being occupied by gardens. A small, but steep hill 
rose above the centre of the town, on which stood a fort, 
intended (but very ill adapted,) for the defence of the 
place, and of the neghboring country. From the foot of 
this hill, another street was built, [now State-street,] 
sloping pretty rapidly down till it joined the one before 
mentioned that ran along the river. This street was still 
wider than the other ; it was only paved on each side, 
the middle being occupied by public edifices. These con- 
sisted of a market place, or guard-house, a town hall, 
and the English and Dutch churches. The English 
church stood at the upper end of the street; the Dutch 
church was situated at the bottom of the descent where 
the street terminated. The town in proportion to its 
population, occupied a great space of ground. This city^ 
in short, was a kind of semi-rural establishment; every 
house had its garden, a well, and a little green behind, — 
before every door a tree was planted, rendered interest- 
ing by being coeval with some beloved member of the 
family." 



The City of Troy, 151 miles north of New- York, is 
pleasantly situated on the east bank of the Hudson river, at 
the head of tide water and steamboat navigation, 6 miles 
above Albany. Its existence as a village, may be dated 
from 1790. It was incorporated as a city in 1816, when 
it contained nearly 5,000 inhabitants ; it has recently 



AND ITS VICINITY. 81 

been made a port of entrj, and contained in 1840, 19^334 
inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in commerce, naviga- 
tion and manufactures. Since the completion of the Erie 
and Champlain canals in 1825, v/hich, opposite this place, 
at the village of West Troy, unite the waters of the 
lakes with those of the Hudson, Troy has rapidly in- 
creased in wealth and population. Here are a fine court- 
house, built of marble, in the Grecian Doric order j a 
jail constructed of brick ; a county poor-house, to which 
a farm containing about 200 acres is attached ; the Rens- 
selaer Institute, founded by the late Hon. Stephen Van 
Rensselaer, where the sciences are practically taught ; 
the Troy Female Seminary, a flourishing chartered insti- 
tution ; the Troy Academy, also an excellent classical and 
chartered institution for the education of boys, besides 
several select schools for males and females. Troy con- 
tains two new, finely modelled and expensive market 
buildings ; seven Presbyterian churches, three Episcopal, 
two Baptist, two Methodist, one Catholic, one TJniver- 
saiist, one Friend's meeting house and an African church; 
six banks, with an aggregate capital of $1,568,000 ; two 
insurance companies ,* onelyceum of natural history, with 
a choice scientific library, and an extensive collection of 
minerals and collections in various branches of natural 
history ; a Young Men's Association for mutual improve- 
ment, with a large library and extensive reading room. 
The public houses in Troy are numerous, and several 
of them celebrated for being well regulated establish- 
ments : The principal hotels are the American Hotel, 
Fourth, corner of Elbow-street j Mansion House, 4 
Washington- square • Mechanic's Hall, 140 River-street ; 
National Temperance House, River, corner of Ferry- 
street ; Northern Hotel, 394 River-street ; Troy House, 
River, corner of First-street ,• Washington Hall, 331 
River-street ; York House, 252 River-street. 



82 HUDSON RIVER 

Here are owned about 60 masted vessels, four large 
passage steamboats of the first class, two smaller steam 
passage boats and five steam tow boats with 22 barges, 
which ply between Troy and New- York, transporting 
annually an immense amount of produce and merchan- 
dise. Four lines of passage and freight boats run on the 
Champlain canal from Troy : a line of packet schooners run 
from this place to Boston, and other eastern ports ; a line 
of canal packets to Whitehall, and lines of daily stages 
run to Whitehall, and Bennington, Vt., and to Brattleboro, 
Vt., and Boston. The water power at Troy is immense, 
and a large portion of it still unoccupied. Within the 
limits of the city and about a mile east of the Hudson, a 
tunnel has been excavated by Mr. Benj. Marshall, ex- 
tending from the Poestenkill, a distance of about 800 feet, 
and gives a fall of 180 feet. Several large mills and fac- 
tories to be supplied with water from this fall, are now 
in the progress of erection. Near the northei-n boundary 
of the city a dam has been built across the Hudson, by 
the state, which here makes a fall of 11| feet and creates 
an incalculable amount of hydraulic power. This place 
is abundantly supplied with wholesome water, brought 
from the Piscawin creek, through large iron pipes with 
hydrants at the corners of the streets. 

The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad commences at 
this place, crossing the Hudson river by a substantial 
bridge 1,650 feet in length, to Green island ; thence it 
continues north across several branches of the Mohawk 
river to Waterford ; following the valley of the Hudson 
until it reaches Mechanicsville, where it diverges to the 
west and continues to the village of Ballston Spa, a dis- 
tance of 24 miles, and unites with the Saratoga and Sche- 
nectady Railroad. The Schenectady and Troy Railroad 
21 miles in length, was completed in 1842 ; it communi* 



AND ITS vrciNil-Y. 83 

cates with the western roads at Schenectady, and will be 
extended to Greenbush, on the east side of the Hudson 
river, opposite Albany ; there to connect with the Alba- 
ny and West Stockbridge railroad, which, when completed 
will make a direct railroad communication from Troy to 
Boston, and furnish a continuous line of railroads from 
Boston to Buffalo. There is also a macadamised road 
already finished from Troy to Bennington, Vt., a distance 
of about 26 miles. Troy is connected with the village of 
West Troy, in Albany Co., which has risen into impor- 
tance within a few years, by means of a commodious 
bridge and two ferries crossing the Hudson river. 

The city of Troj'" has long been celebrated for its beau- 
ty and healthiness. The streets are laid out at right an- 
gles, are generally wide, remarkable for their cleanliness, 
and planted with beautiful, and in the hot season, most 
grateful forest and shade trees. From Mounts Ida on the 
east and Olympus on the north, an extensive and charm- 
ing prospect is presented, embracing a view of the valley 
of the Hudson for miles, the city of Albany, the villages 
of West Troy, Lansingburgh, Waterford and Cohoes, 
and the Cohoes Falls ; a landscape presenting more beauty 
and a greater variety of scenery, can hardly be imagined. 
From the elevations just mentioned, the eye rests at once, 
as on a map spread out before it, on city and village teem- 
ing with life and activity — the broad Hudson rolling on 
in majesty to the ocean, and bearing on its bosom fleets 
of boats and vessels — a long extent of the Erie canal, it- 
self no common stream, floating to market the products 
of the west — railroads, over which are passing with light- 
ning speed, multitudes in pursuit of business or pleasure 
— on woodlands and cultivated fields harmoniously blend- 
ed — and on a western horizon of undulating highlands, 
which towards the south, blend with the famed CatskiU 
mountains, lifting their giant heads to the clouds. 



84 HUDSON RIVER 

West Troy, situated on the west bank of the Hudson 
river, 6 miles above the city of Albany, is a place of 
growing importance. It was incorporated as a village in 
1836, and now contains about 5,000 inhabitants, 800 
dwelling houses, 8 churches, 8 public houses, a large 
number of stores, and mechanics' shops. The Erie Ca- 
nal, which passes through the centre of the village, com- 
municates with the Hudson, by two commodious side- 
cuts. It is a convenient depot for vast quantities of pro" 
duce, lumber, and merchandise ; being on the Junc- 
tion Canal, and at the head of sloop navigation. The 
southern mouth of the Mohawk here unites with the 
Hudson. 

The Watervliet Arsenal, situated in West Troy, near 
the river, was established by the United States govern- 
ment in 1813. This is the largest arsenal of construction 
in the Union, having great facilities for the manufacture 
and transportation of warlike implements, and is well 
worthy of a visit. The grounds attached to the arsenal, 
consist of about 100 acres, enclosed in front by an iron 
fence, and in the rear by a stone wall. Here are located 33 
buildings, comprising storehouses for small arms, gun 
sheds for cannon carriageSj timber sheds, magazines, 
saw-mill, paint, carriage, machine, casting and black- 
smith shops ; offices, barracks, hospitals and officers' 
quarters. About 200 officers, soldiers and hired work- 
men are constantly employed at this post, which number 
could be greatly increased if found necessary. Here are 
now manufactured munitions of war, amounting to an 
estimated value of $100, 000 annually. The total value 
on hand, January, 1841, amounted to $1,662,320. 

Lansingbttrgh, 3 miles above Troy on the east side 
of the Hudson, is one of the oldest villages in the state, 
being incorporated as early as 1787 ; it now contains 



AKD ITS VlClSi*^. 85 

about 3,000 inhabitants. During the Revolutionary war 
it was a place of considerable importance. It has since 
increased but slowly, owing to obstructions in the chan- 
nel of the Hudson, and the consequent growth of Troy. 
Waterford, situated 1 mile above Lansingburgh, on 
the opposite side of the river, and 155 miles north of the 
city of New- York, is at the very head of sloop naviga- 
tion on the Hudson, with which the northern mouth of 
the Mohawk here unites. Navigation is kept up to this 
place by means of a dam and sloop lock at the upper part 
of the city of Troy. Waterford was incorporated in 1805, 
and now contains a population of about 1,400 inhabitants. 
The village of Cohoes two miles west of Waterford, 
is situated on the southwest bank of the Mohawk river 
a short distance below the Cohoes Falls and near the 
junction of the Erie and Champlain canals. Here is af- 
forded by the Mohawk, an immense amount of hydrau- 
lic power. If found necessary the whole volume of wa- 
ter in the river can be used for propelling machinery to 
almost any extent, having a total fall of about 140 feet. 
Here are several extensive manufacturing establishments ; 
Q churches; 1 hotel ; 12 stores, and a population of 2,000 
inhabitants, mostly employed in the above manufactories. 
Stages pass through this village several times daily, run- 
ning between Albany and Waterford, a distance of 10 miles. 
Cohoes Falls, situated in the immediate vicinity of 
Cohoes village, is an object of great attraction. It is much 
resorted to during the summer months, by visitors from 
all parts of the Union. The water of the Mohawk here 
has a perpendicular fall of 70 feet, besides a rapid de- 
scent above and below. The banks of the river present 
a grand and romantic appearance, varying in almost per- 
pendicular heighth of from 50 to 120 feet, for the distance 
of half a mile below the falls, where a substantial bridge, 
about 800 feet long, spans the stream. 



5e 



STEAMBOATS. 



HUDSON RIVER STEAMBOATS. 

The following list embraces all the Passage Boats built and running 
on the Hudson River, between New- York, Albany and Troy, since their 
first introduction by Robert Fulton, in the fall of 1807. 



Built, 


Name. 


Tons 


Commanders. 


Remarks. 


1807 


Clermont, - - - 




James Winan.s, 


Name changed. 


1808 


North River, - - 


160 


Samuel Wiswall, - - 


Broken up. 


1809 


Car of Neptune, - 


295 


A. H Roorabach, - - 


Broken up. 


1811 


Hope, 


-280 


E. S. Bunker, - - - 


Broken up. 


1811 


Perseverance, - - 


280 


J Sherman, - . - - 


Hroken up. 


1811 


Paragon, - 


331 


Andrew Bartholomew, 


Sunk, 1825. 


1813 


Richmond, - - - 


370 


Joab Center, - - - 


Broken up. 


1815 


Oiive Branch, - - 


265 


James Moore, - - 


Broken up. 


1816 


Ch. Livingston, - - 


494 


S. Wiswall & J. Center, 


Coal barge. 


1823 


James Kent. - - 


346 


Thomas Wiswall, - - 


Coal barge. 


1824 


Hudson, . - - - 


170 


M. Bartholomew, - - 


Broken up. 


1825 


Sandusky, - - - 


2S9 


James Penoyer, - - - 


Tow boat. 


1825 


Constittition,* - - 


276 


Wm. J. Wiswall, - - 


Now Indiana. 


1825 


Constellation, - - 


276 


Robert G. Cruttenden. 


Tow barge. 


1825 


Ch. Jus. Marshall,! 


300 


Richard W. Sherman, 


I.ostinL.l. S'd. 


1825 


Saratoga, - - - - 


250 


James Benson, - - - 


Tow barse. 


1826 


Sun,J 


?80 


H. Drake, 


Burnt, 1831. 


1826 


New-Philadelphia, 


300 


(Jeorge E Seymotir, - 


Delaware river. 


1827 


Albany, . . . - 


39S 


J. G. Jenkins &R. Macy 


Runs to Troy. 


1827 


Independence, - - 


368 


Wm. J. Wiswall, - - 


Pliila. route. 


1827 


North America, - 


497 


Gideon Lathrop, - - 


Des.byice,1839 


1827 


Victory, - . . - 


290 


Sanford Cobb, - - - 


From Rondout. 


1828 


De Witt Clinton, - 


571 


J. Sherman &S. R. Roe, 


Eng. in Knick. 


1829 


Ohio,§ - - - - 


412 


M. Bartholomew, • - 


Tow barge. 


1830 


Novelty, - - 


477 


Daniel Peck, - - 


From Rondout. 


1832 


Champlain, - - - 


471 


Adolphus G or ham. 


Tow barge. 


1832 


Erie,l - - . . 


471 


James Benson, - - - 


Tow barge. 


1833 


Helen, - - - . 




Henry Burden, - - - 


Destroyed, 1834 


1835 


Robert L. Stevens, 


298 


Joseph P. Dean, - 


To Piennont. 


1836 


Rochester, - - - 


491 


A. Houghton, - - - 


Runs to Albany 


1836 


Swallow, - - . 


426 


Alex. McLean. - - - 


Runs to Troy. 


1837 


Urica, - - - - 


340 


A. H. Shultz, ■ - - - 


Runs to Hudson 


1838 


Diamond, - - 


398 


A. Flower, - - - 


Laid up. 


1839 


Balloon, - - - - 


204 


David Hifchcock, - - 


F,aid up. 


1839 


North America, - 


494 


R. G. Cruttenden, - - 


Runs to A Ibany 


1840 


South America, - 


638 


M H. Tniesdell, - - 


Runs to Albany 


1840 


Ti-oy, 


724 


Adolphus Gorham, - - 


Runs to Troy. 


1841 


Columbia, - - - 


391 


T. P. Newbury, - - 


Runs to Albany 


1841 


Rainbow, - - - 


230 


Capt. Fury, - - . . 


Delaware river. 


1842 1 Curtis Peck, - - 




Wm. Peck, - - - - 


Runs to Albany 


1843 Empire, - - - - 


936 


Stephen R. Roe, - - 


Runs to Troy. ' 


1843 


Knickerbocker, - 


858 


A. P. St. John, - - - 


Runs to Albany 



Exploded her boilers in 1825, killing 3 persons, 
t Exploded her boiler in 1830, killing 11 persons. 
t Built to run as a day boat between New- York and Albany. 
§ Exploded her chimney or flue in 1832, killing 5 persons. 
I Exploded her chimney or flue in 1838, slightly injuring 1 person. 



steamboats. 87 

Passenger Barges. 

In 1826, the steamboat Commerce, Capt. George E. 
Seymour, towed the passenger barge Lady Clinton, and the 
steamboat Swiftsure, Capt. Cowden, towed the passen- 
ger barge Lady Van Rensselaer. 



4. 


li 


17 


u 


5. 


U 


20 


C( 


H- 


(( 


30 


i; 


7. 


(C 


36 


cc 



Copy of an Advertisement taken from, the Albany Ga- 
zette, dated September, 1807. 
*'The North River Steamboat, will leave Pauler's 
Hook Ferry [now Jersey City,] on Friday the 4th of Sep- 
tember, at 9 in the morning, and arrive at Albany on Sa- 
turday, at 9 in the afternoon. Provisions, good berths 
and accommodations are provided. 

*' The charge to each passenger is as follows : 
To Newburgh, dols. 3, time, 14 hours. 

" Poughkeepsie, 
" Esopus, 
'' Hudson, 
" Albany, 

'* For places, apply toWm. Vandervoort, No. 48 Court- 
landt-street, on the corner of Greenwich-street. 
'' Sept. 2, 1807." 

Extract from theN. Y. Evening Post, dated Oct. 2, 1807. 
''Mr. Fulton's new-invented steamboat, which is fitted 
up in a neat style for passengers, and is intended to run 
from New-York to Albany as a Packet, left here this 
morning with ninety passengers against a strong head 
wind. Notwithstanding which, it was judged she moved 
through the water at the rate of six miles an hour.". 

Extract from the Albany Gazette, dated Oct. 5, 1807^ 

" Friday, Oct 2, 1807, the steamboat [Clermont,] left 

New-York at 10 o'clock A. M. against a stormy tide, 

very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She 



88 



STEAMBOATS. 



made a headway beyond the most sanguine expectations, 
and without being rocked by the waves. 

" Arrived at Albany Oct. 4, at 10 o'clock P. M. being 
detained by being obliged to come to anchor, owing to a 
gale, and having one of her paddle wheels tore away by 
running foul of a sloop," 

Note. — It is stated on the authority of Capt. E. S. 
Bunker, that the Clermont, or experiment boat, as 
sometimes called, the first steamboat constructed under 
the direction and superintendence of Robert Fulton in 
1807, was 100 feet long, 12 feet wdde, and 7 feet deep. 
In 1808, she was lengthened to 150 feet, widened to 18 
feet, and had her name changed to North River. The 
engine was constructed in England, by Watt & Bolton, 
and brought to New-York in Dec. 1306, by Mr. Fulton, 
The hull of the boat was constructed by David Brown, 
an eminent ship builder in New-York, In August 1807, 
the boat was propelled by steam from the East River to 
the Jersey shore, and on the 2d of October following she 
started on her first trip to Albany. 




THE CLERMONT. 



90 TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 

a distance of 72 miles from Albany. To St. John's, Cana- 
da, is a further distance of 157 miles, through Lake 
Champlain by steamboat. A railroad 15 miles long 
extends from St. John's to La Prairie on the St. Law- 
rencej and thence a steamboat runs to Monireal, a further 
distance of 9 miles. 

In going by the first route, through Saratoga Springs, 
the traveller has a choice of passing direct to Whitehall 
through Sandy Hill, or diverging to Glen's Falls, and 
thence to CaldM^ell, situated at the head of Lake George, 
or Horicon, v^here will be found a favorite public 
house. Passengers are then carried over the above 
charming piece of vt^ater in a steamboat, to the foot of 
the lake, 36 miles; thence by stage, 4 miles further, to 
the landing at Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Charaplainy 
where is delightfully situated a well kept public house. 
This is by far the most romantic and picturesque route, 
affording the traveller an opportunity to visit many points 
of great interest^ connected with stirring events, recorded 
in the history of the old French and Revolutionary wars. 

The route by railroad and canal packets, is considered 
the most expeditious and pleasant, as r. gards comfort,- 
passing through the villages of Waterford, Mechanics- 
ville and Stillwater, (by Bemus' Heights, and battle- 
ground, where Burgoyne surrendered to the American 
army under Gen. Gates, Oct. 17, 1777,) Schuylerville, 
Fort Miller, Fort Edward and Fort Ann, to the village of 
Whitehall ; being most of the way in sight of the beau- 
tiful Hudson, skirted by scenery of the most enchanting 
character. 

At Mechanicsville, 12 miles north of the city of 
Troy, is the place where the cars running on the Rens- 
selaer and Saratoga Railroad unite with passenger boats 
plying to Whitehall, during the season of navigation. 



TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 91 

The village of Stillwater, is an old and quiet settle- 
ment, 4 miles further north. It was incorporated in 
1816.J and now contains 400 or 500 inhabitants. In the 
north part of this town, is situated the battle ground 
where Gen. Burgoj^ne was defeated by the American army 
under General Gates in 1777. 



THE CAPTURE OF BURGOYNE. 

The place at which we have now arrived recalls 
one of the most important events of the Revolutionary 
war, and a brief notice of the principal incidents which 
preceded and accompanied the surrender of Gen. Burgoyne 
and his army, may not be unacceptable to the tourist 
whom we have undertaken to guide. 

The army of Burgoyne was probably the best equipped 
and most effective force brought into the field by the 
enemy for a specific object, during the whole contest; and 
its fate was mainly decided by two battles fought on 
very nearly the same ground, one on the 19th Septem- 
ber, and the other on the 7tli of October, 1777. The 
battle ground was on B emus' Heights, about two miles 
from, the Hudson river, in the town of Stillwater. 

The battle of Sept. 19th, was brought on accidentally 
rather than by design, originating in a skirmish between 
two advanced parties in a cleared field surrounded by the 
primitive forest, and known as Freeman's Farm. A 
small house in this clearing was occupied by a picket- 
guard of the British army, which lay to the north. A 
small party, detached from Col. Morgan's Rifle Corps, as 
the American army was advancing toward the enemy, 
fell in with the party posted in the house, attacked and 
drove them from it, and in pursuing them came unex- 
pectedly upon the main body of the enemy, by whom a 
part of their number were captured, and the rest dis- 



^ TOUR TO THE SPRIIYGS, ETC. 

persed. This occurred a little past noon. Tn about an 
hour the fighting was partially renewed, but the action 
did not become general till about 3 o'clock, when it com- 
menced in earnest, and raged till night, both in the woods 
and in the clearing, the latter being the scene of the 
greatest slaughter. The battle was a very bloody one. 
The British forces kept their station in the rear of the 
clearing; and the Americans returned to their camp a lit* 
tie to the south. Burgoyne claimed a victory, but his 
loss, between five and six hundred, was nearly double that 
of the Americans^ and the relative circumstances of the 
two armies rendered his loss proportionately still more 
severe. 

The battle of October 7th, may be said, speaking in 
general terms, to have been fought on the same field as 
the former, but it covered more ground. It was brought 
on, (says Professor Silliman, in his " Toitr." published 
in 1820, where these battles and the incidents connected 
with, are very fully recounted,) by a movement of Gen. 
Burgoyne, who ordered a body of 1,500 men with ten 
pieces of cannon to the right of his own line, with the 
view of foixing the left wing of the American army and 
covering a foraging party in that direction. This occur- 
red about the middle of the afternoon; and the Ameri- 
cans, though destitute of artillery, promptly commenced 
the attack, and the battle soon extended along the whole 
line. " After a sanguinary contest of less than an hour, 
the discomfiture and retreat of the British, became gene- 
ral; and they had scarcely regained their camp when their 
lines were stormed with the greatest fury, and part of 
Lord Balcarras' camp was for a short time in our pos- 
session." 

The entrenchments of the German reserve, under Col. 
Breyman, were also stormed, the Colonel killed, and 



TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 93 

his troops forced to abandon their position with great loss 
both of killed and priboners ; and had not the night put 
an end to the fighting, the whole British array would 
have been overwhelmed in their entrenchments. 

But though the coming on of night saved the enemy 
from further slaughter, yet the battle was decisive That 
same night the British abandoned their position, retired 
to their works on the heights, and on the succeeding 
night, leaving their camp fires lighted and various tents 
standing, commenced a further retreat with the utmost prac- 
ticable secrecy. The heavy rains and the deep roads so 
embarrassed their movements that the)'^ did not reach 
their last station, on the north side of the Fishkill creek 
till the morning of October 10th, There, on the high 
ground overlooking the meadows bordering the river, they 
took up their final position. They were speedily followed 
by Gen. Gates, whose forces were now greatly superior 
in numbers and were so advantageously disposed as to 
render further retreat by the British impossible, whose 
position, moreover, was completely commanded by the 
Americans. " Every part of the camp of the royal army," 
says Silliman, " was exposed not only to cannon balls, 
but to rifle shot; not a single place of safety could be found. 
Even access to the river was very hazardous, and the ar- 
my was soon distressed for want of water." 

In this exposed and hopeless situation the British con- 
tinued six days longer, when hostilities were terminated 
by the surrender of the whole army. The articles of 
capitulation were executed on the 16th, and the surren- 
der took place on the next day — October 17th, 1777. 

The ground on which Gen. Burgoyne delivered himself 
and his associates in command to Gen. Gates, was on the 
south bank of the Fishkill creek, near where now stands 
the village of Schuylerville. Gen. Wilkinson, an aid of 



94 TOUR TO THE SPRINGS^ ETC. 

Gen. Gates, and an eye-witness of the scene, describes it 
as follows: 

" Early in the morning of the 17ih. I visited Gen. 
Burgoyne in his camp, and accompanied him to the 
ground where his army were to lay down their arms, 
from whence he rode to the bank of the Hudson river, 
which he surveyed %^ith attention and asked me whether 
it was not fordable. ' Certainly, sirj but do you observe 
the people on the opposite shore?' ' Yes, (i^eplied he,) 
'I have seen them too long.' He thea proposed to be 
introduced to Gen. Gates, and we crossed the Fishkill and 
proceeded to head-quarters, Gen. Burgoyne in front, viath 
his Adjutant-General Kingston, and his aids Captain 
Lord Petersham, and Lieutenant Wilford behind him. 
Then followed Maj. Gen. Phillips, the Baron Reidesel, 
and the other general officers and their suites, according 
to rank. 

" Gen. Gates, advised of Burgoyne's approach, met him 
at the head of his camp, Burgoyne in a rich royal uni- 
form, and Gates in a plain blue frock. When they had 
approached nearly within sword's length, they reined up 
and halted. I then named the gentlemen, and Gen. Bur- 
gone raising his hat gracefully said — ' The fortune of 
war, Gen. Gates, has made me your prisoner;' to which 
the conqueror, returning a courtly salute, promptly re- 
plied, ' I shall always be ready to bear testimony that 
it has not been through any fault of your Excellency.' 

*' Maj. Gen Phillips then advanced, and he and Gen, 
Gates saluted and shook hands with the familiarity of old 
acquaintances. The Baron Reidesel and the other officers 
were introduced in their turn." 

The ground on which the captured troops piled their 
arms, was on the north bank of the Fishkill near its con- 
fluence with the Hudson. It is 34 miles from Albany, 



TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 95 

and 11 miles above Stillwater village, and 10 miles east of 
Saratoga Springs. 

The severest individual loss of the British during the 
severe and bloody struggle between these two armies, 
was in the person of Gen. Frazier, who was shot by one 
of Morgan's riflemen posted in a tree, in the battle of 
October 7th. He was buried . the next morning- within 
the principal redoubt on the heights. Mr. Silliman states 
on a visit to the spot, in 1797, he found the grave still 
visible, with a slight enclosure round it, but that subse- 
quently the remains were removed to their native land. 
He was an accomplished and gallant officer, possessing 
the entire confidence and good-will of the army and 
greatly respected and beloved by his associates. The 
circumstances connected with his death and burial; the 
capture of Major Ackland, of the British Grenadiers, 
who was disabled by a severe wound and taken prisoner 
in the same battle; the heroic fortitude of his wife, lady 
Harriet Ackland, and of the Baroness Reidesel, in the 
vai'ious scenes of peril and suffering through which they 
passed; and the kindness and courtesy with which they 
were treated by the victors, particularly by Gen. Schuy- 
ler and his family, and which gave additonal lustre to the 
victory, all these incidents have imparted to the principal 
events of this scene a degree of romantic interest with 
which few others, if any of the military occurrences of 
that war are invested. 

A visit to the battle grounds has become a favorite 
excursion to travellers, and by visiters sojourning at 
the Springs, during the summer months. 

Ballston Spa, 12 miles northwest of Mechanicsville, 
is an old and celebrated watering place. It is situated 
in a valley near the Kayaderosseras creek, 30 miles 
north of the city of Albany, and 24 miles from Troy, by 



96 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

railroad. It was incorporated in 1S07, and now contains 
about 1,500 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, 1 Presby- 
terian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist churchy 
1 banking house, 6 hotels and taverns, and several pri- 
vate boarding houses for visiters during the summer 
months. The oldest and still the most esteemed foun- 
tain, is known as the '^public ueZZ," en the flat west of 
the centre of the village. It is said to have been first dis- 
covered by the whites, in 1769, during the survey and par- 
tition of the Kayaderosseras patent. It issues from a bed 
of stiff blue clay and gravel. Besides the above, there are 
several other springs of less note, possessing medicinal 
properties of a similar character. 

The Sans Souci Hotel at this place, erected by the late 
Nichlas Low, Esq., in 1803, is an old and popular board- 
ing house, delightfully situated near the centre of the 
village. It is often thronged during the summer months 
with visiters from every section of the United States and 
Europe. 

The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad terminates at 
this place, where it unites with the Saratoga and Sche- 
nectadij Railroad^ thus affording a speedy communica- 
tion with the cities of Schenectady, Troy and Albany, 
and with Saratoga Springs, 6| miles north of Ballston Spa. 

The village of Sakatoga Springs, pleasantly situated 
on a plain, surrounded in part by a beautiful grove of pine 
trees, is the most noted watering place in the Union, the 
mineral springs, possessing great medicinal properties, 
vary somewhat in their analyses. It is built chiefly on 
one broad street, and the numerous large hotels and 
houses for the accommodation of visiters, give it an im- 
posing appearance, particularly when thronged with com- 
pany, as it usually is during the summer months. It was 
incorporated in 1816, and now contains about 2,500 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 97 

inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, one Presbyterian, one 
Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist, one Universalist 
and one Roman Catholic church ; one mutual insurance 
company, an incorporated academy, a female seminary 
and several select schools ; the Young Men's Association, 
e new and popular chartered institution, numbering about 
150 members j 35 stores of different kinds ; 2 iron foun- 
dries, 1 machine shop, an extensive carriage manufac- 
tory, and 3 printing offices, besides many other kinds of 
mechanic work shops. 

The hotels and boarding houses are numerous, and 
many of them fitted up on a large and magnificent scale, 
unsurpassed by any similar establishments in the Union. 
The United States Hotel, situated near the railroad depot, 
is a large four story brick edifice, furnishing accommoda- 
tions for 400 guests ; the location is central, and within a 
short distance of all the principal mineral springs. Con- 
gress Hall, and Union Hall, are both old and popular es- 
tablishments, situated on the south of the village near the 
Congress Spring. The American Hotel is a new house 
built of brick, in the centre of the village. It is well 
furnished, and is kept open through the year, affording 
good accommodations both in winter and summer. The 
Columbian Hotel, Montgomery Hall, and jidelphi Hotel y 
are all well kept public houses, and remain open for the 
accommodation of visiters during the whole year. The 
Washington Hall, Railroad House, Eagle Hotel, Tempe- 
rance Hotel, Congress Spring Temperance House, Har- 
mony Hall, New England Hall, and Prospect Mansion 
House, besides some 20 or 30 private boarding houses, 
also accommodate visiters. There are several public 
bathing houses near the springs, wdiere cold and warm 
water and shower baths can at all times be obtained. 

The railroads afford a speedy communication between 
the Springs and the cities of Albany, Schenectady, and 



93 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

Troy. The Saratoga and Washington Railroad, when 
completed, is to extend from Saratoga Springs to White- 
hall, a distance of 40 miles. Stages now run from the 
Springs to Glen's Falls and Caldwell's, as well as to San- 
dy Hill, Dunham's Basin, and Whitehall. 

The celebrated Mineral Waters, which are the great 
cause of attraction to this place, require a particular des' 
criplion. At what precise period these springs were first 
discovered, cannot now with any degree of certainty be 
ascertained As early as 1773, a settlement was made 
here, a little west of the High Rock Spring, for the dou- 
ble purpose of trading with the Indians, and accommo- 
dating invalids. The High Rock and Flat Rock were the 
only springs at that time known. The Congress Spring 
was first discovered in 1792. There are now within the 
distance of about half a mile, some 10 or 12 important 
mineral fountains, flowing to the surface, and most of 
them located near the margin of a brook which runs 
through the village on the east. Congress Spring, Wash- 
ington Spring, Putnam's Spring, Pavilion Springs, Io- 
dine Spring, Hamilton Spring, and the Flat Rock and 
High Rock Springs, may be named as the most valuable 
for their medicinal properties, and as objects of curiosity. 
A cluster of mineral springs known as the " Ten Springs," 
are situated about one mile east of the village. The most 
celebrated of these springs is known as the Union Spring ; 
in the vicinity of which is the Mansion House, a well 
kept summer establishment. Large quantities of these 
waters are annually exported to dilFerent parts of the 
country, affording a handsome income to the several 
owners, most of them being private property, although 
no charge is made to visiters, other than what they vol- 
untarily give to those who are employed to wait on them. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 99 

The following are analyses of some of the priacipal 
Springs of Saratoga. 

Congress Spring. — From experiments and deductions 
by Dr. Steel, one gallon, or 231 cubic inches of the wa- 
ter of the Congress Spring, is found to contain the fol- 
lowing substances, viz : 

Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium, (sea salt) 3S5.000 

Hydriodate of Soda, 3 . 500 

Bi-carbonate of " 8.982 

" of Magnesia, 95.788 

Carbonate of Lime, 9S . 098 

" of Iron, 5.075 

Silex, 1.500 

Hydro-bromate of Potash, a trace, 

Total grains, 597.943 

Carbonic acid gas, cubic inches , 311 

Atmospheric air, 7 

Gaseous contents, 318 

Washington Spring, is situated in a southwest di- 
rection from Congress Spring. It is a sparkling acidu- 
lous water; its temperature is 50 -degress, and one gallon 

of it affords the following articles, viz : 

Grains. 

Chloride of sodium, 2S1.50 

Bi-carbonate of Soda 16.50 

" ofMagnesia, 40.92 

Carbonate of Lime, 92.60 

'• of Iron, 3.25 

Silex , 3 . 50 

Hydriodate of Soda, 2-75 

Solid contents in a gallon, 439 . 02 

Carbonic acid gas, cubic inches, 262.50 

Atmospheric air, 6.80 

Gaseous contents in a gallon, 269 • 30 

L.ofC. 



100 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

Putnam's Congress Spring, is located a few rods 
east of the United States Hotel. The following is an 
analj'sis taken by James R. Chilton, M. D. of New- 
York city. One gallon of water contains the following 
ingredients, viz : 

Grains, 

Chloride of Sodium, 214.00 

Carbonate of Soda, 14.32 

of Lime, 6S.80 

Iodide of Sodium, with a trace of Bromide of 

Potassium, 2.00 

Phospliate of Lime, • . • .21 

Sulphate of Soda, 1.63 

Carbonate of Magnesia, 51.60 

" of Iron, 7.00 

Silicia, 84 

Alumina, -56 

Total, 361 . 01 

Carbonic acid, cubic inches, 341.88 

Atmospheric air, 6 . 04 

Total, 347 . 92 

The gases were obtained and analyzed at the Spring, 
the temperature of the water being 51° Fahrenheit, in 
July. 

Pavilion Fountain. This celebrated medicinal foun- 
tain rises in a valley near the Pavilion Hotel, [destroyed 
by fire in 1843,] and was tubed up from a depth of forty 
feet, in May, 1840, after incredible labor and expense 
The great curiosity it excited, and the crowds which it 
daily attracted, induced the proprietors to have the same 
analyzed in August following, when one gallon of water 
was found to contain these constituents, viz : 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 101 

Grains, 

Chloride of Sodium, 226.58 

Carbonate of Mas^nesia, 62.50 

" of Lime, 60.24 

Carbonate of Soda, 4.70 

Oxide of Iron, 3.10 

Iodide of Sodium, > 9 75 

Bromide of Potassium, • ) ' 

Silica, .62 

Alumina, .25 



Total, 361.74 



Carbonic acid gas, 480.01 

Atmospheric air, 8 . 09 

Cubic inches, 488. 10 

The quantity of gas which evolves from the Pavilion 
Fountain is double its volume of water ; which fact ren- 
ders it an object of great curiosity, and increases its me- 
dicinal properties. 



Iodine Spring, is a new fountain, located a few rods 
north of the celebrated High Rock Spring. According to 
an analysis of Professor Emmons, of the Medical Col- 
lege in Albany, one gallon of this water contains the fol- 
lowing ingredients : Grains. 

Muriate of Soda, 187 

Carbonate of Lime, 26 

'' Iron, 1 

" Magnesia, 75 

'' Soda, 2 

Hydriodate of Soda or Iodine, 3^ 



Total, 294^ 



Carbonic acid gas, ( water bottled three weeks,). . 330 
Atmospheric air, . - 4 

Cubic inches, 334 

The freedom of this water from iron is truly remarka- 
ble, and as Professor E. remarks, " supplies a desidera- 



102 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

turn which has been long wanting, viz : a water which 
may be drank by a certain class of invalids to whom iron 
proves a decided injury. 

Union Spring, one of the most celebrated of the 
"Ten Springs:" analyzed in 1841, by James R. Chil- 
ton, M. D. One gallon of this water contains the fol- 
lowing ingredients : Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium, 243.620 

Carbonate of Magnesia, 84.265 

" Lime, 41.600 

'' Soda, 12.800 

" Iron, 5.452 

Iodide of Sodium, 3.600 

A trace of Bromide of Potassium, Silica and 

Alumina, 1 • 570 

Total, 392.907 



Carbonic acid gas, (from water bottled four 

weeks,) 314.16 

Atmospheric air, > 4.62 



Cubic inches, 318.78 



Saratoga Lake, lying in Saratoga county, is a beau- 
tiful sheet of water, 4 miles southeast of the village of 
Saratoga Springs, and 5 miles east of Ballston Spa : it 
is 9 miles long and about 2 miles wide. This lake is 
much resorted to during the summer months by parties of 
pleasure, and it is stored with pike, pickerel, perch and 
other fish. The shores abound with game, and with the 
lake, afford ample sport to the huntsman and angler. 

On leaving Saratoga Springs for the north, the travel- 
ler is conveyed by stage to Glen's Falls and Caldwell, 
or to Whitehall, via Sandy Hill, or Dunham's Basin ; 
at the latter place the stage line connects with canal 
packet boats running from Albany and Troy, to Whitehall. 



TOUR TO LAKE GEORGE, ETC. 103 

The village of Glen's Falls, on the Hudson, 18 miles 
north of Saratoga Springs, is a place of great interest. 
The falls in the river at this point have a total de- 
scent of about 50 feet, are varied and picturesque, and af- 
ford hydraulic power to a vast extent, which is yet hut 
partially used for manufacturing purposes. A new and 
substantial bridge, about 500 feet long, has been erected 
here on the site of the old one. It is a free bridge and 
affords a favorable view of the falls and river. The 
Champlain canal feeder passes on the north side of the 
river at this place, receiving its waters from the Hudson, 
two miles above the village, and uniting with the Cham- 
plain canal a few miles east of Sandy Hill, affording a 
navigable communication with Lake Champlain, and the 
tide waters of the Hudson river. 

This village was incorporated in 1839, and now con- 
tains about 1,800 inhabitants, 225 dwelling houses, one 
Presbyterian, one Baptist, and one Methodist church j 
an incorporated academy, and a female seminary ; four 
hotels and taverns ; thirty stores and groceries ; one grist 
mill, four extensive saw-mills, including three gang mills 
of twenty-five saws each, and four English mills ; four 
marble mills, containing 275 saws ; one plaster mill, one 
furnace, three machine shops, one marble polishing and 
chimney piece manufactory, two tanneries, and three ex- 
tensive establishments for making lime. On both sides 
of the river at this place are extensive beds of black mar- 
ble, which for beauty of color and brilliancy of polish, 
are not exceeded in this country. From this marble, lime 
also is made of a superior quality. Below the falls, na- 
ture has exposed the strata in such a way that the thick- 
ness of the several layers can be examined to the depth 
of at least 70 feet. 



104 TOUR TO LAKE GEORGE, ETC. 

The principal hotel at Glen's Falls, where the stage 
usually stops for passengers to dine, has long been cele- 
brated for its delicious hill of fare. 

The road from this place to Caldwell, at the head of 
Lake George, a distance of 9 miles, passes over a wild 
and romantic region of country, connected with stirring 
events in the Revolutionary and old French wars, which 
make it classic p^round. Before reaching Lake George 
you pass the " Bloody Pond,'^ near which in Septemherj 
1755, about 1,000 English and French Mere killed, and 
their bodies thrown into this pond, which now presents 
a wild and gloomy appearance. 

The village of Caldwell is delightfully situated at the 
southwest end of Lake George, 62 miles north of the 
city of Albany. It contains about 200 inhabitants, 35 
dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, a county clerk's 
office, one church, four hotels and taverns, two stores, 
one grist-mill, one saw-mill, and a plaster mill, situated 
on Mill brook. In the vicinity of this place, near the 
south end of the Lake, is situated the site of old Fort 
Willia?n Henry, and a short distance beyond, the ruins 
of Fort George ; still further south are the ruins of Fori 
Gage ; all of which are associated with the early history 
of this part of the country both in peace and war. The 
Lake House, at this place is a well kept hotel, and is 
much resorted to during warm weather. It is a delight- 
ful summer retreat, where are to be found desirable accom- 
modations for fishing parlies and parlies of pleasure. — 
The steamer William Caldwell, plies regularly between 
Caldwell and the outlet of the lake at Ticonderoga, a 
distance of 36 miles ; stages then transport passengers a 
distance of 4 miles from the landing on Lake George, to the 
steamboat landing on Lake Champlain ; affording one of 
the most picturesque and romantic excursions imaginable. 



X,AKE G120IIGE. 105 

Lake George, or Horicon, is justly celebrated for its 
varied, romantic and beautiful scenery, and for the trans- 
parency and purity of its waters. It is 36 miles long, 
north and south, and from two to three miles wide ; and 
is elevated 243 feet above the tide water of the Hudson, 
although its waters flow north into Lake Champlain. It 
is surrounded by high and picturesque hills, sometimes 
rising to mountain height — ^and dotted with numerous 
islands, said to count as many as there are days in the 
year -, some are of considerable size, and cultivated ; 
while others are only a barren rock, rising majestically 
out of the surrounding waters. Diamond Island, near 
the village of Caldwell, is celebrated for its beautiful 
quartz crystals, which in shape and brilliancy resemble 
pure diamonds. The wild and romantic scenery of this 
lake is no where surpassed. The bed of the lake is a 
handsome yellowish sand, and the water is so pure and 
transparent, as to render the bottom visible from 30 to 
40 feet. Here the delicious salmon trout, that weigh 
from 5 to 20 pounds, are found in great numbers and 
of the finest quality. Silver trout, brook trout, pike, 
pickerel, perch, and several other kinds of fresh water 
lish are also abundant. Travellers on the tour from the 
Springs to Canada, should not fail to visit Lake George ; 
by the French called Lat Sacrament, on account of the 
purity of its waters. The steamboat " "William Cald* 
well," runs through the lake, from Caldwell to the land- 
ing near the village of Ticonderoga, whence stages run 
to Fort Ticonderoga, at the steamboat landing on Lake 
Champlain ; where steam passage boats on their route 
from Whitehall to St. John's, touch daily, during the 
season of navigation. This route is varied in scenery, 
and deeply interesting in historical incidents. 

H 



106 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 

Route from Saratoga Springs to Whitehall. 

The village of Sandy Hill, through which passes the 
stage route from Saratoga Springs to Whitehall, is situated 
on elevateJ ground on the east side of the Hudson, 19 
miles from Saratoga Springs, and 50 miles north of the 
city of Albany. The water power at this place is very 
great, there being a fall of about 12 feet at the upper 
part of the village, while about 100 rods teicw with a 
continuous descent, are situated Baker^s Falls, where 
there is an almost perpendicular fall of 50 feet, affording 
hydraulic power to a great extent, none of which is at 
present used for manufacturing purposes. 

The Champlain canal feeder passes through this place, 
uniting v>"ith the main canal one or two miles east of the 
village, affording canal navigation to Lake Champlain 
and to the navigable w-aters of the Hudson. The Sara- 
toga and 'V/ashington Railroad, when completed, will 
run through Sandy Hill, from Saratoga Springs to White- 
hall, a distance of 40 miles. 

A daily line of stages run during the summer months 
from Saratoga Springs to Dunham's Basin, 2 miles east 
of Sandy Hill, on the Champlain Canal, connecting with 
canal packets running from Albany and Troy to Whitehall. 

The village of Fort Edward is 2 miles south of San. 
dy Hill. This vicinity having been celebrated during the 
old French and Revolutionary wars, as the theatre of 
military exploits and savage murder, Ave subjoin the fol- 
lowing extract : " The remains of Fort Edward are still 
to be seen in the very centre of the romantic little village 
which now bears its name. At a short distance north, 
the place is shown where Miss Jane McCrea was mur- 
dered by the Indians. Tradition has accurately preserv- 
ed the location of that most bloody and most melancholy 
deed. She was on her way to join an officer in the British 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 107 

army to whom she was to be married. She cominilted 
herself, against the remonstrance of her friends, to a 
party of Indians as the safest escort in those times. They 
met another party at this place, sent by the anxious and 
expecting bridegroom, and an altercation ensued in re- 
ference to the promised reward ; in the midst of which 
they were attacked hj a party of whites. When the con- 
flict was over she was found tomahawked and scalped. 
Her lover was overwhelmed with grief, and survived but 
a short time." 

Fort Ann, 10 miles north of Sandy Hill, is a place 
of interest, being on^ of many fortified points between 
Lake Charaplain and the Hudson river, celebrated in 
the early history of the country. The old fort, of which 
hardly a vestige now remains, was erected in 1756. 

The village of Whitehall, 72 miles north of Albany, 
is advantageously situated in a narrow valley at the head 
of Lake Champlain ; it was incorporated in 1820, and 
now contains about 2,400 inhabitants, 300 dwelling 
houses, one Presbyterian, one Episcopal, and one Metho- 
dist church ,• one banking house, four hotels, thirty 
stores and groceries, and two extensive forwarding houses; 
several manufacturing establishments ; two ship yards 
and two dry docks, where are built and repaired steam- 
boats, lake craft and canal boats; two brick yards and 
one tannery, besides almost every other kind of mechanic 
work shops. Here are owned 2 or 3 steamboats for the 
conveyance of passengers and merchandise, and two 
steamboats used as tow boats ; 50 sloops and schooners, 
averaging about 100 tons burthen, and 70 canal boats, 
besides others owned on diflerent parts of Lake Cham- 
plain, which trade with and pass through this place. 
Two daily lines of canal packets leave Whitehall for 
Troy and Albany, and two daily lines of stages, one pas- 
sing on each side of the Hudson river ; in addition to 



108 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 

which two daily lines of stages run to Saratoga Springs 
during the summer months, connecting with the railroads 
to Troy, Schenectady and Albany. A daily line of stages 
run to Rutland, Vermont, intersecting stage lines running 
to Boston, &c. During the close of navigation, a daily 
line of stages run from here to Burlington and Montreal. 

The passenger steamboats now running on Lake Cham- 
plain, from Whitehall to St. John's, Canada, are the 
Burlington, commanded by Richard W. Sherman, the 
Whitehall, commanded by G. Lathrop, and the Saranac, 
These boats are celebrated for the admirable discipline 
observed on board and for quiet and comfort. 

One of the above boats will leave Whitehall daily, at 
10 o'clock A. M. during the season of navigation, which 
usually lasts from the middle of April to the first of De- 
cember. The fare through to St. John's is now reduced 
to $3.00 for cabin passage. 

Lake Champlain, lying between the states of New- 
York and Vermont, extends north and south a distance of 
140 miles ; varying from half a mile or less, to 10 miles 
in width ; it is a long, narrow and deep body of water, 
dotted with a number of islands, the largest of which be- 
long to Vermont. From Whitehall to Crown Point, the 
lake is quite narrow, but here it begins to expand, and 
soon becomes 3 miles wide, still increasing northward, 
until near Burlington, where it spreads to its greatest 
width. Steamboats of the first class, and sloops of from 
50 to 100 tons burthen navigate this lake its whole length, 
thence down the Sorelle, or Richelieu river, its outlet, to 
St. Johns, Canada, where steamboat navigation ceases ; 
a total distance of about 150 miles. This lake is connect- 
ed with the navigable waters of the Hudson, by means 
of the Champlain canal, which extends south, a distance 
of 63 miles; also by the Chambly Canal, on the north, 
with the St. Lawrence river. As you approach near the 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 109 

centre of Lake Champlain, a large body of water presents 
itself to view, bordered by scenery of the most picturesque 
description. The headlands which are seen to great ad- 
vantage, and the vast ranges of mountains on either side, 
are truly grand and romantic. The highest peak of the 
Green Mountains, called the " Camel's Rump/' is seen on 
the east, while the high ranges of the mountains of Essex 
county, are seen on the west. This latter range of moun- 
tain peaks, the Adirondack group, contain the highest 
land in the state of New- York, rising in some places to the 
height of 5,000 feet and upwards, richly stored with iron 
ore and timber of large growth. 

In the streams which flow into this lake are frequent 
waterfalls of great beauty ; and the fine headlands and 
bays of the lake itself give a picturesque charm to its 
shores. Its waters are stocked with salmon, salmon 
trout, sturgeon, pickerel, and various other kinds of fish. 

FoBT TicoNDEROGA. The ruins of this old fortification 
are situated in the town of Ticonderoga, Essex Co. on the 
west side of Lake Champlain, at the entrance of the outlet 
of Lake George, 24 miles north of Whitehall. This place 
was originally called Che-on-der-o-ga hy the Indians, sig- 
nifying, in their language, noise; its name was afterwards 
slightly changed by the French into its present appellation, 
which it has borne ever since it was first occupied and forti- 
fied by them in 1756. The fort was at first named Fort 
Carillion, but afterwards called Fort Ticonderoga, by the 
English and Americans. This fortification cost the French 
goyernment a large sum of money, and was considered 
very strong both by nature and art. It stands on a point 
of land, elevated 70 feet above Lake Champlain, being 
surrounded on three sides by water, and on the northwest 
it was defended by strong breast works. Mount Inde- 
pendence^ on the opposite or east side of the lake, was 



no TOUR TO CANADAj ETC. 

also fortified, and some of the intrench ments are still 
visible, elevated 110 feet above the lake, and overlook- 
ing the peninsula of Ticonderoga. After several sangui- 
nary conflicts in this vicinity and under the very walls of 
the fort, in which several thousand lives were sacrificed, 
this important niilitary position was tamely evacuated 
by the French in 1759, and given up to the British array 
under Lord Amherst ; who retained possession until it 
was taken by surprise by Col. Ethan Allen, of the 
American armj^, in 1775. He is said to have entered the fort 
through a subterraneous passage from the south, extend- 
ing to the lake ; surprising the commandant in his bed be- 
fore he vras aware of his danger, and in his characteris- 
tic way required the officer to surrender. He asked to 
whom? "Why, to Jehovah and the Continental Con- 
gress, to be sure j" was his laconic reply. In 1777, the 
British army, under Gen. Burgoyne, on their route to 
Saratoga, appeared in array before Ticonderoga, w'hen 
Gen. St. Clair, the American commander, was forced to 
evacuate J the enemy having erected a battery on 3Iouni 
Defiance, in the rear, elevated 720 feet above the lake, 
which overlooked and completely commanded this forti- 
fication, which was before considered almost impregna- 
ble ; it then remained in the hands of British until the 
close of the war. Since tliat time it has been suffered to 
go to decay, and now presents one of the most interesting 
ruins of the kind in this country, and is annually visited 
by a great number of travellers. Near by, delightfully 
situated on the lake shore, is a well kept hotel for the ac- 
commodation of visiters. Here steamboats, during the 
season of navigation, daily land and receive passengers, 
on their route from Whitehall to St. John's, Canada. 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. Ill 

The following account of the dkff.at of the British 
AT TicoNDEKOGA, IN 1759, is taken from the " Memoirs 
an American LaJy,'' written b}- Mrs. Grant. 

" The araiy un.ler the command of Gen. Abercrorabie, 
crossed Lake George on the 5th of July, and landed with- 
out opposition. They proceeded in four columns to Ti- 
conderoga, and displayed a spectacle unprecedented in the 
New World. An army of sixteen thousand men, regu- 
lars and provin3ials, with a train of artillery, and all the 
necessary pro\'isions for an active campaign cr regular 
siege, followed by a fleet of batteaux, pontons. &c. 
They set out wrong, however, by not having Indian guides, 
who are alone to be depended en in such a place. In a 
short time the columns fell in upon each other, and oc- 
casioned much confusion. The advance guard of the 
French, w'hich had retired before them, were equally be- 
wildered, and falling in with each other in this confusion, 
a skirmish ensued, in which the French lost above three 
hundred m^en, and the English, though successful in this 
first rencontre, lost as much as it was possible to lose, in 
one man — for here it w^as that the valiant Lord How^e, 
the second in command, fell mortally w-ounded. He was 
shot from behind a tree, probably by some Indians ; and 
the whole army w'ere inconsolable for a loss they too well 
knew to be irreparable. 

'' The fort is in a situation of peculiar natural strength ; 
it lies on a little peninsula, wdth Lake Champlain on one 
side and a narrow opening communicating wdth Lake 
George, on the other. This garrison, which was well 
prepared for attack, and almost impregnable from situa- 
tion, was defended by between four and five thousand 
men. An engineer sent to reconnoitre, was of opinion 
that it might be attacked wdthout waiting for the artillery. 
The fatal resolution was taken without consulting those 
who were best qualified to judge. 



112 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 

" I cannot enter into the dreadful detail of what fol' 
lowed. Certainly never was infatuation equal to this. 
The forty-second regiment was then in the height of de- 
served reputation, and commanded by a veteran of great 
experience and military skill, Col. Gordon Graham, who 
had the first point of attack assigned to him He was 
wounded at the first onset, and of the survivors, every 
officer retired wounded off the field. Of the fifty- fifth 
f egiment, ten officers were killed, including all the field 
officers. No human beings could show more determined 
courage than this brave array did — standing four hours 
under a constant discharge of, cannon and musketry from 
barricades, on which it was impossible for them to make 
the least impression. Gen. Abercrombie saw the fruit- 
less waste of blood that was every hour increasing, and 
ordered a retreat, which was very precipitate ; so much 
so, that they crossed the lake, and regained their camp 
on the other side, the same night. Two thousand men 
were killed, wounded, or taken in this disastrous engage- 
ment ; which, was however, quickly succeeded by the 
dear bought conquest of Quebec, where fell both the ri- 
val commanders, Wolfe and Montcalm." 

Mount Defiance, about one mile southwest of Fort Ti- 
conderoga, on the south side of the outlet to Lake George, 
is a bold promontory, elevated about 800 feet above the 
level of the Lake. While the ascent from the water or 
eastern face is quite steep and difficult, the approach 
from the west is easy. It was from this quarter that 
Gen. Burgoyne, in 1777, ascended this mountain and 
planted several pieces of artillery — obliging the Ameri- 
cans to evacuate the fort, which was before considered al- 
most impregnable. The top of this eminence gives a 
grand view of Lake Champlain and the surrounding 
country, and is well worthy of a visit, which can easily 
be accomplished on foot. 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 113 

The village of Ticonderoga, two miles west of 
Lake Champlain, is situated on the outlet of Lake 
George, where is a thriving settlement, surrounded 
by picturesque mountain scenery. One or two miles 
farther west on the road to Lake George, is situated ano- 
ther village called Upper Ticonderoga or Alexandria, 
Here is a most beautiful fall of water, affording immense 
hydraulic power, a small part of which is only used for 
propelling machinery. The steamboat landing, at the 
foot of Lake George, is about one mile west of the latter 
place, the whole distance to Lake Champlain being four 
miles. 

Shokeham, 2 miles from Ticonderoga, on the opposite 
side of the lake, is a regular steamboat landing. 

Bridport, 9 miles further, is another landing on 
the Vermont shore. 

Chimney Point, 6 miles north of Bridport, is also 
another landing on the east side of the lake. 

Crown Point, 18 miles north of Ticonderoga, on the 
west side of Lake Champlain, presents an interesting ap- 
pearance from the water. The ruins of the old fortifi- 
cations are situated on a neck of land running into the 
lake ; the embankments are visible and indicate an im- 
mense amount of labor expended to render this point in- 
vulnerable to an approaching foe, whether by land or wa- 
ter ; yet it was taken by surprise, at the commencement 
of the revolutionary struggle, by the celebrated Col. 
Ethan Allen. 

Port Henry, on the west side of the lake is situated 
on Cedar Point, at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay , which 
separates Crown Point from the main land. Here are 
the works of the Port Henry Iron Company , with iron 
ore of good quality in the vicinity. 

Westport, 54 miles north of Whitehall, is situated on 
northwest bay, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It 



114 TOUR TO CANADAj ETC. 

contains 6 or 700 inhabitants and is a thriving place. A 
horse ferry boat here plies across the lake, running to 
Basin Harbor, Vermont. 

Fort Cassin, 7 miles further north, on the east side 
of Lake Champlain, is situated near the mouth of the 
Otter river, which is navigable to Vergennes, a distance 
of 5 miles. 

Split Rock, on the wes? side of the lake, 2 or 3 miles 
south of the village of Essex, is a rocky promontory pro- 
jecting into the lake on the west side, about 150 feet, and 
elevated above the level of the water some 30 or 40 feet. 
This is perhaps the greatest natural curiosity on Lake 
Champlain. 'The part detached contains about half an 
acre, covered with a small growth of trees, and is sepa- 
rated from the main rock about 20 feet. It is evident this 
rock has been detached by some convulsion of nature, as 
the two faces exactlj^ fit each other — the prominences in 
the one corresponding with the cavities in the other. 

The village of Essex, 6S miles from Whitehall, is 
handsomely situated on the west side of Lake Cham- 
plain, opposite Charlotte Landing, with M'hich it is 
connected by a horse ferry boat. The lake here expands 
to 3 or 4 miles in width, and presents a large expanse of 
water towards the north. The Green Mountains of Ver- 
mont, and the Adirondack Group of Essex county, are 
here seen stretching north and south in vast mountain 
peaks and ridges. The CameVs Rump, being one of the 
highest peaks of the former, is overlooked by Mount 
Marcy on the New- York side of the lake, the latter being 
elevated 5,467 feet, or upwards of one mile above the 
tide waters of the Hudson ; and near it this noble river 
has its most northern source. 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 115 

BtTRLiNGTON, Vermont, 82 miles from Wliitehall and 
75 miles from St. John's, Canada, b)- steamboat route, is 
most delightfully situated on the east shore of Lake 
Chaniplain. This is Ihe most important place in the irtate, 
lying on Burlington Bay. It possesses a convenient 
and safe harbor for steamboats and lake craft. The 
United States government have here erected a breakwater, 
v/hich protects the shipping from westerly winds, and 
is a great addition to the security of the harbor. In 
1840, it contained a population of 4,721 inhabitants; 
about 600 dwelling houses; the University of Vermont, 
consisting of four spacious edifices; the Episcopal Insti- 
tute; a court-house and jail; 7 churches of difterent de- 
nominations, an academy and 2 female seminaries, 2 
banking houses, several well kept hotels, and a number 
of stores of different kinds; besides several factories and 
mills, and most every kind of mechanic establishments. 

This village overlooking the lake, with its bays, islands, 
and adjacent scenery — the passing steamboats and other 
vessels; possesses a beauty of location probably unsurpass- 
ed by any other place in the Union, In tradp and commerce 
it is closely allied with the interests of the State of New- 
York. Steamboats stop here daily on their route from 
Whitehall to St. John's. Canada; a steamboat also plies 
from this place to Port Kent, en the opposite side of the 
lake, a distance of 10 miles, and thence to Plattsburgh, a 
further distance of 12 miles. 

Port Kent, is advantageously situated on the west 
side of Lake Champlain, 12 miles south of the village of 
Plattsburgh. It contains about 250 inhabitants, 30 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 church, 2 taverns, 3 stores and 2 ware- 
houses. The site of this place is beautiful, command- 
ing one of the finest views on Champlain, extending to 



116 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 

the opposite shore of Vermont. It is contemplated to 
construct a railroad from Port Kent to the Au Sable Forks, 
a distance of 16 miles, passing through the villages of 
KeesevUle and Clintonville. Immediately south of the 
landing at this place, lies Trembleu Point, the com- 
mencement of the Clinton range of mountains, 

Keeseville, is situated on both sides of the Au Sable 
river, 4 miles west of Port Kent. It contains about 
2,000 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, 1 Congregational, 
1 Baptist, 1 Methodist and 1 Roman Catholic church, an 
incorporated academy, 1 banking house, 2 taverns, and 
18 stores and groceries. The water power at this place 
is very great, and advantageously used by several manu- 
facturing establishments. The "Keeseville Manufactur- 
ing Company" is chartered, with a paid capital of $40,000 j 
they own on the north side of the river, an extensive 
water power, on which is situated a forge with three fires, 
a rolling mill and nail factory, which manufacture into 
roll iron and nails about 1,000 tons of iron annually. 
The "Keeseville Wollen and Cotton Company" is also 
chartered, with a paid capital of $30,000: they own on 
the south side a large factorj'^ building, to which is at- 
tached a drying house and a dye house, all built of stone 
in the most substantial manner. There are also 2 flouring 
mills, 4 extensive saw mills, which make annually about 
half a million of market boards; 1 furnace and a ma- 
chine shop, 1 plaster mill, 1 brewery, 1 large wheel- 
wright shop, 1 tannery, and 1 printing office, together with 
most other kinds of mechanic work shops. 

At Birmingham, 2 miles below Keeseville, is a sue 
cession of picturesque falls, in all about 150 feet descent. 
Immediately below the lower falls the river enters a deep 
ravine of singular and romantic beauty. Through the 
chasm thus formed by the wearing of the waters, or 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 117 

some convulsion of nature, the rocks rise from 75 to 150 
feet, almost perpendicular, for a distance of about two 
miles, averaging about 50 feet in width, altogether form- 
ing a great natural curiosity. In addition to the above, 
there are other ravines in this vicinity of singular for. 
mation. 

Plattsburgh, is situated on both side of the Saranac 
river, on the west shore of Lake Champlain, 162 miles 
north of the city of Albany. It was incorporated in 
1815, and now contains about 2,600 inhabitants, 350 
dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and county clerk's 
officej 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist and 
1 Roman Catholic churchj an incorporated lyceum 
and an incorporated academy ; 5 hotels and tav- 
erns, 30 stores and groceries, 1 flouring mill, 1 grist 
mill, 2 cotton factories, 3 woollen factories, 2 marble 
mills, 2 fulling mills, 2 saw mills, 2 tanneries, 1 machine 
shop, 1 soap manufactory, and 2 printing offices, together 
with almost every other kind of mechanic work shops. 
The water power at this place is very great; the Saranac 
river here ^having a succession of falls, making a total 
descent of about 40 feet; only a part of which is occu- 
pied for manufacturing purposes. The surrounding coun- 
try is rich in agricultural and mineral productions, and 
Plattsburgh is the proposed termination of the Ogdens- 
burgh and Lake Champlain Railroad, which when com- 
pleted, will greatly tend to develop the resources of the 
whole northern part of the State of New- York. This is 
an United States military post, where the government are 
now erecting extensive stone barracks, near the lake 
shore, south of the village, and a permanent breakwater 
for the protection of the harbor. 

Plattsburgh was the scene of an important engagement 
between the British and American armies, in September, 



118 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 

1814, which resulted in the defeat of the British, under 
the command of Sir George Prevost, and the capture of 
the British fleet under Com. Downie, who was killed in 
the action. The American army was commanded by 
Maj. Gen. Macomb, and the fleet by Com. PvIcDonough. 

The officers, on both sides, who fell in the several 
encounters by land and water, on the memorable occasion 
just mentioned, were buried in the public cemetery adja- 
cent to the village of Plattsburgh; but their graves were 
left, under the pressing exigencies of that time, without 
any permanent monument, or stone of memorial. That 
community, long discontented with an omission w^hich 
seemed to betoken an apathy not at all in unison with 
real feelings, at last determined to make amends for their 
neglect, and fufil all the rites of sepulture. Accordingly, 
a little previous to the return of the anniversary of the 
battle, in 1843, meetings were held at which it Avas re- 
solved to celebrate the day, by placing marble monu- 
ments, with appropriate inscriptions, at the several 
graves, and thus render to the brave and devoted dead, 
the remaining public honors so eminently their due, and 
so long left unpaid. This design was carried into eflfect 
under the superintendence of the Clinton County Mili- 
tary Association, and the anniversary rendered deeply 
interesting by the placing of these monuments, wdth ap- 
propriate ceremonies and religious services, accompanied 
by commemoration addresses. 

The graves are arranged in the form of a parallelogram, 
with that of Capt. Downie, the commander of the British 
flotilla, in the centre, as the officer of highest rank. 
The names of the others, so far as known, are as follow: 
Of our own countrymen, Lt. George W. Runk, of the 
U. S. A.J Lt. Peter Gamble, U. S. N.; Lt. John Stan?, 
bury, U. S. N.j Sailing Master Rogers Carter, U. S. N.j 



TOUR TO CANADA, ECT. 119 

Midshipman James M. Baldwin, U. S. N.; Pilot Joseph 
Barron, U. S. N., and another pilot, name not known. 
Of the British army j Col. Wellington, 3d Regt. Buffs, 
Capt, PurchesS; 76th Regt., and a Lieutenant, name not 
known, of the 3d Regt. Buffs; and of the British navy 
three Lieutenants, names not known. 

The beautiful lines of an Irish poet of the last century, 
(Collins,) can never be more appropriate than to this 
occasion: 

" How sleep the brave who sink to rest, 
By all their country's wislies blest ! 
When spring with dewy fingers colrl, 
Returns to deck their hallowed moulrl. 
She there shall dress a sweeter sod 
Than fancy's feet liave ever trotl. 
Tiiere honor comes, a pilgrim grey, 
To bless the turf that wraps their clay, 
And memory shall awhile repair 
To-dwell a weeping hermit there." 

Cumberland Head, is a peninsula extending two or 
three miles into the lake, opposite the village of Platts- 
burgh, forming Cumberland Bay, into which empties the 
Saranac river. 

Crab, or Hospital Island, lies 2 miles south, and 
near the track of the steamers on their way to and 
from the landing at Plattsburgh. It was on a line near- 
ly north and south between Cumberland Head and Crab 
Island, that the British and American fleets encountered 
each other, on the 11th of September, 1814, a day which 
brought so much honor to the American flag. 

South Hero, and North Hero, are the names of two 
Islands belonging to the jurisdiction of Vermont. The 
former is connected by a ferry, on the west side with 
Cumberland Head, and on the east side with the main 
shore of Vermont. 



120 TOTJR TO CANADA, ETC. 

Chazy Landing, 16 miles north of Plattsburgh, is a 
convenient steamboat landing, on the west side of Lake 
Champlain. 

Isle au Mott, opposite the above landing, is a fine 
island, also attached to Vermont. It is 6 miles long and 
2 miles vride, containing much good land, and a valuable 
quarry of marble. 

The town of Alburg, Vt. is a triangular body of land, 
projecting from Canada into Lake Champlain, by which 
it is surrounded, excepting on the Canada side. On the 
eastern shore lies the village of Alhurg, a port of entry, 
and a few miles north is Alburg Springs, where is a small 
settlement, and mineral spring of considerable etficacy in 
scrofula and other cases. 

MissisQui Bat, still further northeast, is a large body 
of water lying mostly in Canada, or north of the 45th de- 
gree of north latitude. 

The village of Rouse's Point, in the town of Cham- 
plain, 25 miles north of Plattsburgh, and 132 miles from 
Whitehall, is situated on the west side of Lake Cham- 
plain, about one mile south of the Canada line, and has a 
convenient steamboat landing. It is surrounded in part 
by a level and fertile region, which extends west to the 
St. Lawrence river. One mile north of the village is a 
military position commanding the navigable channel of 
the lake. In 1815, the government of the United States 
commenced the construction of a strong fortress at Rouse's 
Pointj but on running out the boundary line between the 
United States and Canada, under the treaty of Ghent, 
this point was found to be north of the 45th degree of 
north latitude, and the works were suspended. By the 
treaty of Washington, concluded in 1842, the boundary 
was so adjusted, however, as to give this point to the 
United States. The suspended works are in a very dilapi- 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 121 

dated condition, and serves at present only as a land-mark 
to indicate the line of division between two national juris- 
dictions. 

At the Line, the lake, which, a little south, is 3 
miles acrossj narrows to about a mile in width. On the 
castj as the steamer passes into the Canadian waters, 
may be seen a long line of road cut through a forest : this 
marks the boundaries between Canada and the United 
States. 

Ash Island, 4 miles north of Rouse's Point, is consi- 
sidered the foot of Lake Champlain. Here the Richelieu, 
or St. John's river, as the outlet of Lake Champlain is 
called, is about half a mile wide. The land on both sides 
of the stream seems almost level with the water, and 
presents this low and flat surface for many miles. 

Isle atjx Noix, situated in the Richelieu river, 12 
miles north of Rouse's Point, is the first steamboat land- 
ing after entering Canada. Here is a strong fortification 
occupied by British troops, and commanding the channel 
of the river. The American steamer is compelled to 
land at this place to take on board a custom house oflicer, 
and to show their permit as it returns. On the arrival of 
the boat at St. John's, being as far as the river is naviga- 
ble for steamboats; the baggage of the passengers is 
subject to the inspection of custom house officers, before 
being removed on shore; a duty being levied on such arti- 
cles as are not allowed to enter free. 

St. John's, or I>orchester, 157 miles from Whitehall, 
is advantageously situated on the west side of the Riche- 
lieu river, abridge connecting it with the village of St, 
Anthanaise on the opposite shore. It is 23 miles north of 
the American line, 24 miles southeast of Montreal, and 
contains about 2000 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, a 
custom house and barracks for soldiers, 1 Episcopal, 1 

I 



122 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 

Roman Catholic, and 1 Methodist church; 10 hotels and 
taverns, of which Mann's, Morehouse's, and Mrs. Wat- 
son's are the most noted; 9 stores and 2 forwarding 
houses, 2 tanneries and a number of mechanics' shops 
of different kinds. 

The Chambly Canal, extends from St. Sohn'sto Cham- 
bly, on the north west side of the Richelieu river, a dis- 
tance of 12 miles. It was completed in 1843, at a cost 
of about $400,000. There are nine locks on this canal 
120 feet long, 24 feet wide and 6 feet deep; lift 10 feet 
each, making a total descent of 90 feet in 12 miles. 
This canal was constructed by the Provincial govern- 
ment. It affords navigation for vessels of 100 tons burden 
between Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence river, 
thus furnishing an uninterrupted water communication 
from New- York to Quebec, 

The Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad extend- 
ing from St. John's to La Prairie on the St. Lawrence, a 
a distance of 15 miles, belongs to a joint stock company. 
It was completed in 1826, at a cost of $200,000 including 
depot buildings, locomotives, cars, &c. The road runs 
over a level section of country, and was constructed at a 
less sum than the estimated cost. The usual fare from 
St. John's to Montreal, is one dollar in first class cars; fifty 
cents in second class cars. ' 

At La Prairie, a convenient steam ferryboat conveys 
passengers to Montreal, a distance of 9 miles. 

The aspect of the St. Lawrence is truly grand and in- 
teresting, as you approach it on the south from St John's. 
Towards the west is seen the Lachine rapids, one of the 
most dangerous on the river. Opposite Montreal it is 3 
miles wide, embosoming the beautiful island of St. He- 
len, which is fortified and garrisoned by British troops. 



TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 



123 



As you approach Montreal by water, the city, ship- 
ping, and wharves are seen to great advantage. The lat- 
ter — the wharves — ^probably exceed any thing of the 
kind in America, consisting of a range of massive and 
solid masonry extending along the river for upwards of 
a mile, 

*jt* For a description of Montreal, and other places 
in Canada, see the Tour through Canada in the 
-«' Picturesque Tourist," 



TABLE OF DISTANCES BETWEEN ALBANY 
AND MONTREAL, 

BY THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE, 



PLACES. 



Albany, 

Troy, , 

Whitehall, . , . 

Ticonderoga, 

Burlington, 

Plattsburgh,, . . . . . 
Rouse's Point, . . . . , 
St. John's, Canada, 
Montreal, 



Place to 
place. 





6 

66 

24 
58 
25 
25 
24 
24 



From 
Albany. 





6 

72 

96 

154 

179 

204 

228 

252 



From 
Montreal. 



252 

246 

180 

156 

98 

73 

48 

24 





124 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM MONTREAL TO 
QUEBEC, BY Water. 

To Verennes, . » 15 Miles. 

Williayn Henry,. 30 45 " 

Lake St. Peter, 8 53 " 

St. Francis, 30 83 " 

Three Rivers, 7 90 '' 

St. Anne, 25 1.55 " 

Richelieu Rapids, ^ 20 135 " 

Cape Sante, 15 150 '^ 

Cape Rouge, • 22 178 '^ 

Quebec...... 8 180 "• 



TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM MONTREAL TO 
KINGSTON. 

To Lachine, by stage 9 Miles.. 

CsLScsLdes, by sieajnboat, 24 33 " 

Coteau du Lac, 6i^ s^fage, 16 49 " 

Cornwall, by steamboat, ......... 41 90 *' 

Dickinson's Landing, by canal, .... 12 102 " 

OgdensburghjOrPrescott, s/eaw6oaf, 38 140 " 

Brockville, do. 12 152 " 

Kingston,, do. 60 212 " 



From Kingston to Toronto, by steamboat^ 1^0 miles. 

To Niagara Falls, by Steamboat and Railroadj^ 
50 miles further. 

Total distance from Montreal to Niagara Fall^^ 
442 miles. 



WESTERN TOUR. 



ROUTES FROM ALBANY AND TROY TO 
BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS. 

The first link of the great chain of railroads connect- 
ing the navigable waters of the Hudson with Lake Erie, 
is the Mohawk and Hudson Railroad. It was one of the 
first constructed railroads in this state, the company hav- 
ing been chartered in 1826. It extends from Albany to 
Schenectady, 16 miles, and passes over a tract of sandy 
land, covered nearly the whole distance with a thick 
growth of stunted pines. Though at present barren and 
uninviting, this district is capable of being rendered fruit- 
ful and beautiful by judicious tillagej and at no extraor- 
dinary cost. The sand is everywhere underlaid, general- 
ly at no great depth, with clay; and at the bottoms of the 
ravines and basins, or rather bowls, with which the 
whole tract abounds ; are rich deposits of muck and 
a marly clay, which could be mixed with the sand at 
about as little cost as equal quantities of other manures, 
and would furnish precisely those ingredients which are 
now mostly deficient in the general soil. The few farms 
which skirt this tract, are encouraging evidences of what 
the whole could be rendered, and if so rendered, there 
are few districts more beautiful than this would be. Its 
surface is agreeably varied, and from its general elevation, 
it commands a wide horizon, with distant prospects of 
universal beauty. 

The Schenectady and Troy Railroad, which has re- 
cently been put in operation, extends from the city of 
Troy to the city of Schenectady^ on a line of 20 miles in 



126 WESTERW TOUR. 

length, and making with the other road, two lines of travel 
diverging from the tide waters of the Hudson, in addi- 
tion to the Erie Canal. This road from Troy inclines to 
the north, running parallel with the Mohawk river, and, 
is remarkable for the variety and beauty of its scenery. 
The City or Schenectady is handsomely situated 
on the south bank of the Mohawk, at the true com- 
mencement of the celebrated valley of that river. This 
is an ancient place, having been settled as early as 1620, 
by the Dutch, many of whose living descendents reside 
in the dwellings of their ancestors, and retain many of 
their primitive habits. This place was called by the 
Indians Schagh-nac-taa-da; signifying in their language, 
'' beyond the pine plains.^' During the old French and 
Indian wars, Feb. 9, 1690, it was taken by surprise in 
the dead of night, was sacked and burnt by the Indians; 
a great number of its inhabitants were massacred, and 
others carried away into captivity. It was chartered as 
a city in 1798; and in 1840, contained 6,784 inhabitants. 
Few inland towns present a more thronged thoroughfare 
than Schenectady. In addition to the Erie Canal, which 
passes through the centre of the city, here diverge four 
important railroads. Besides those already mentioned, 
there are the Saratoga and Schenectady Railroad, run- 
ning to Ballston Spa and to Saratoga Springs, 2H miles; 
and the Utica and Schenectady Railroad, running to 
Utica, 78 miles, and traversing the rich valley of the 
Mohawk, parallel with the river and the Erie Canal. 

The public building, dwellings, and stores in Schenec- 
tady, present a plain appearance, perfectly in keeping 
with the general character of the place. There are seve- 
ral well kept hotels, affording every desirable accommo- 
dation for the traveller, if inclined to tarry for business 
or pleasure. The place derives its most extended cele- 



WESTERN TOUR. 127 

brily from being the seat of Union College, situated on 
the elevated ground about half a mile east of the com- 
pact part of the city. This institution was incorporated 
in 1795, and derived its name from the fact that its foun- 
ders w^ere members of different denominations, and prof- 
fered its advantages indiscriminately to the followers of 
every faith. The buildings consist of one stone and two 
brick edifices, containing accommodations for the president 
and professors and their families^ 2 cha,pels, lecture and 
library roomSj 4 halls lor the meeting of literary socie- 
ties, and dormitories for students, of whom there are 
usually from 200 to 300, from every section of the coun- 
try. Attached to the institution, are about 250 acres of 
land, appropriated in part to groves for recreation and 
health. These are distingushed for beauty of feature 
and situation, and present great capability for improve- 
ment. The annual commencement takes place on the 
fourth Wednesday of July, after which there is a vaca- 
tion of six weeks. 

In addition to railroad cars, commodious Canal Packet 
Boats, run daily during the opening of the canal, be- 
tween Schenectady and Utica, adistauce by this route 
of 80 miles, affording a cheap and comfortable mode of 
conveyance. 

On leaving Schenectady for Saratoga Springs, and for 
Utica, the railroad tracks cross the Erie canal and Mo- 
hawk river by substantial bridges. If bound for the 
Springs, you proceed northward through an interesting 
region, passing on the way the village of Ballston Spa, 
an old and celebrated place of resort, and the terminus of 
the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, which comes up 
from Troy. If bound to the west, your route is on the 
north side of the Mohawk, and your first halt is at the 
village of 



123 WESTEKJr TOUR. 

Amsterdam, 15 miles from Schenectady, and cobu 
nected by a toll-bridge with Port Jackson on the oppcK 
side of the river. Amsterdam contains about 1,700 inha> 
tants, and in the immediate vicinity are annually quarried 
large quantities of a fine quality of limestone, much used 
for the construction of locks and other public worksv 
Stages leave Amsterdam daily for the Fish House, on 
the Sacondaga river, and for other places to the north in 
Fulton county. One or two miles west of Amsterdam, 
on the line of the railroad, are situated two of the old 
stone mansions of the Johnson family, who figured large- 
ly in the early history of this part of the country. 

Schoharie Creek, a fine stream descending from the 
high lands away to the south, and towards the head wa- 
ters of the Delaware, enters the Mohawk in the midst of a 
broad tract of rich alluvial land, at the distance of 22 miles 
from Schenectady. On a sort of natural bastion in the 
angle between the creek and the river, once stood Fort 
Hnnter, famous in old colonial times, in the transactions 
between the Indians and the white men, and its remains 
are still traceable. 

Fonda, a pleasant village of recent date, and the coun- 
ty seat of Montgomery county, is 42 miles by railroad 
from Albany. It stands on the north side of the Mo- 
hawk, and opposite the village of Fultonville, on the 
Erie canal. 

Johnstown, the county seat of Fulton county, lies 4 
miles north of the Mohawk river, and 45 miles from Al- 
bany. This is an old and interesting place, containing 
about 1,000 inhabitants. It was originally founded by 
Sir William Johnson, whose residence, built of lime- 
stone, is still standing about one mile west of the village. 
A daily line of stages runs from Johnstown to Fonda 



WESTfiRJr fOUR. 129 

connecting with the cars on the Utica and Schenectady 
Raibroad. 

To the north of Johnstown and some 30 miles distant; 
lies the county of Hamilton, being for the most part an 
unsettled wilderness of great extent. This region of 
country abounds with lakes and streams richly stored 
with trout and other fish of fine flavor, the most fre- 
quented resorts are Lake Pleasant and Lake Piseco, 
and the creeks and rivers in their neighborhood. 

Spraker's Basin, on the line of the Erie canal is 36 
miles from Schenectady. Here is located a thriving settle- 
ment, containing a church and some 20 or 30 dwellings. 
_ Palatine Bridge, 54 miles from Albany, connects 
with the village of Canajoharie, on the south bank of 
the Mohawk river, and the proposed terminus of the 
Catskill and Canajoharie Railroad, a distance of 78 
miles from the Hudson river at Catskill, by this route, 
Canajoharie was incorporated in 1829, and now contains 
about 1,300 inhabitants. The Erie canal passes through 
the centre of the village. Stages leave this place daily, 
during the summer season, for Sharon Sulphur Springs 
and Cooperstown. 

Sharon Springs, some 10 or 12 miles south of Cana- 
joharie, and 45 miles west of Albany, via the Cherry- 
VaUey turnpike, has become a place of considerable re- 
sort for health or pleasure. The Pavilion is a large and 
weU kept public house, afibrding a view, said to be equal 
to that of the Catskill Mountain House. The rides in 
the vicinity, the numerous villages, extensive views, 
neighboring caves and romantic scenery, together with 
the delightful fishing in Otsego Lake, are among the 
many attractions offered to those seeking in the heat 
of summer either health or pleasure. 



130 WESTERN TOUK. 

Added to these advantages, the pure clear waters of these 
springs, greatly resembling those of the White Sulphur 
Springs of Virginia, have been proved to be highly effi. 
cacious in Rheumatic, Cutaneous, and Dyspeptic com- 
plaints, and in some respects possess medicinal and heal- 
ing properties unsurpassed, and believed to be unequalled 
in the United States. 

From a certificate of a recent analysis made for the 

proprietor of these Springs by one of the most eminent 

chemists in this country, (Dr. Chilton of New- York,) the 

following results have been obtained from one gallon of 

the water: Grains. 

Sulphate of Magnesia, 42.40 

Sulphate of Lime, 111.62 

Chloride of Sodium, 2-24 

Chloride of Magnesium, 2 . 40 

Hydrosulphuret of Sodium, ^ 

Hydrosulphuret of Calcium, > 2.28 

Vegetable extractive matter, ) 

Totalgrains, 160.94 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen Gas, , 16 cubic inches. 

CooPERSTowN, although off from the great line of 
travel, east and west, is well worthy of a visit. It is 66 
miles west of the city of Albany, by stage route, and most 
delightfully situated on a plain at the outlet of Otsego 
Lake, this being the chief source of the Susquehanna 
river. No inland village in the Union, probably excels 
Cooperstown in elegance of situation and beauty of sur- 
rounding scenery. Otsego Lake in the immediate vicini- 
ty, is a most beautiful sheet of water, abounding in trout 
and bass, celebrated for their peculiar flavor. 

Richfield Springs, 69 miles from Albany, is situated 
near the head of Canaderaga lake. Here is a celebrated 
sulphur spring, which is much resorted to by invalids, 
aad is noted for the cure of cutaneous disorders. 



WJESTEJRN TOUR. 131 

Fort Plain, 57 miles from Albany by railroad route, 
oa the south side of the Mohawk river^ is situated on the 
line of the Erie canalj it was incorporated in 1834, and 
now contains about 1,400 inhabitants. A daily line of 
stages run from this place to Cherry-Valley, Coopers- 
town, and Sharon Springs in Schoharie county. 

Palatine Church, 60 miles from Albany, is sur- 
rounded by a small settlement. 

Saint Johnsville, 63 miles from Albany and 31 from 
Utica, is situated on the north side of the Mohawk, on the 
line of the Utica and Schenectady Railroad; it contains 
about 300 inhabitants. 

East Canada Creek, enters the Mohawk river 3 
miles west of St. Johnsville. This stream for a consi- 
derable distance forms the boundary line between the 
counties of Montgomery and Herkimer. 

Lillle Falls, Herkimer county, is situated on both 
sides of the Mohawk, 73 miles west of the city of Alba- 
ny. It was first incorporated in 1811, and amended in 
1827; it now contains about 2,500 inhabitants, 300 dwel- 
ling houses, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 
Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic church ; a large and 
beautiful academy building, a banking house, 5 hotels, 
and taverns, 30 stores and groceries, 2 printing offices, 
together with almost every other kind of mechanic work 
shops; and the village is rapidly improving in population 
and business. The Mohawk river here falls, in the dis- 
tance of half a mile, about 42 feet affording hydraulic 
power to a large extent, only a small portion of which is 
at present occupied for manufacturing purposes. There 
are now erected and in operation, 1 extensive woollen fac- 
tory, with new and improved machinery, 3 paper mills, 
3 flouring mills, 2 saw mills, 1 plaster mill, 1 trip ham- 



132 WESTERN TOtTR. 

mer works, 4 furnaces, 1 machine shop, 1 distillery, 1 
brewery, 1 sash factory, and 1 fulling mill. 

This place and vicinity is justly celebrated for its wild 
and romantic scenery, and is much resorted to by the 
admirers of nature and art. The gap between the moun> 
tains, through which the river has apparently worn for 
itself a passage, though confined, is still of breadth 
sufficient to afford room for a large town. The rock at 
the river bed is primitive granitic gneiss, very hard but is 
readily quarried and broken into building stone. Above 
this, on the mountain sides, lies the sand rock, and still 
higher, at the top, are extensive beds of blue limestone; 
great quantities of which have been used in constructing 
the locks, and for building, for coping, and for flagging. 
Through this gorge passes the Erie canal, on the south 
side of the river; and the Utica and Schenectady Railroad 
and the Mohawk turnpike on the north. It is the gate- 
way through which the product and travel of the vast 
west must of necessity pass to tide -v^ter. An aqueduct 
crosses the Mohawk at this place, communicating with a 
feeder on the north side of the river, and is a fine specimen 
of masonry. A daily line of stages runs between Little 
Falls and Trenton Falls, and several mail routes north 
and south branch off at this place. 

West Canada Ckeek, enters the Mohawk river, 5 
miles west of Little Falls. Its whole length is about 60 
miles from its sources, in the wilds of Hamilton county. 
It is a romantic and lovely stream, and abounds with fine 
trout. About 20 miles from its mouth are situated Tren- 
ton Falls, being on the border of the town of the same 
name in Oneida county. 

The village of Herkimer, 79 miles from Albany, is 
handsomely situated in the valley of the Mohawk on the 
north side of the river. It was incorporated in 1807, and 



WESTERN TOUR. 133 

now contains about 800 inhabitants, 120 dwelling houses, 
a new brick court-house, and stone jail, built on an im- 
proved model, combining security and comfort to the 
prisoners ; a fire- proof clerk's office ; an incorporated 
academy in a flourishing condition ; 1 banking house I 
1 German Reformed, and 1 Methodist church; 6 hotels 
and taverns; 10 stores and groceries, and I printing office. 
Here is a flouring mill containing four run of stone, situ- 
ated on a hydraulic canal, which is fed by the waters of 
the West Canada creek; it is about three miles in length 
and has two falls, one of 22 feet, and another of 15 feet, 
aflfording water power sufficient to propel upwards of 100 
run of stone, most of which is still unoccupied, and is one of 
the most durable and available water powers in the 
state. 

The village of Mohawk, situated on the south side of 
the river, one mile west of Herkimer, is a thriving place 
of business, through which passes the Erie canal. 

The village of Frankfort, 9 miles east of Utiea, is 
also situated on the line of the Erie canal, and contains 
about 500 inhabitants. 

The City of Utica, situated on the south side of 
the Mohawk river, is on the site of old Fort Schuyler, 93 
miles west of the city of Albany. It was chartered ia 
1832, and is now divided into four wards, and governed 
by a common council, consisting of a mayor and 12 alder- 
men. In 1840, it contained 12,810 inhabitants, about 
1,600 dwelling houses, 3 Presbyterian churches, 1 Re- 
formed Dutch, 2 Episcopal, 4 Baptist, 3 Methodist, 2 
Catholic, 1 Universalist, and 1 African church, and 1 
Friends meeting house ; 1 Protestant and 1 Catholic 
orphan asylum ; 1 public marl et, 4 banking houses and 1 
saving's bank ; 1 mutual insurance company; 2 incorpo- 
rated academies, one for males and the other for females; 



134 WESTERN TOUR. 

a museum located in the Exchange building; 1 public 
garden; 15 hotels and taverns, besides several extensive 
private boarding houses. The July term of the supreme 
court of the state, the several terms of the vice-chancel- 
lor's court for the fifth circuit, one term of the United 
States district court for the northern district of the state 
of New-York, and one term of the circuit court for the 
county of Oneida, are holden in Utica. The office of one 
of the clerk's of the supreme court, that of the clerk in 
chancery for the fifth circuit, of the clerk of the United 
States court, and of the clerk of the county of Oneida, 
are located in this city. 

The New- York State Lunatic ./2s?/ZMm,situated on some- 
what elevated ground, about one mile west of the centre of 
Utica, is a noble and imposing structure. The finished 
building can accommodate upwards of 200 patients . T hi s 
humane establishment is calculated for the. reception of 
all insane persons in the state, whose friends or county 
authorities may apply in their behalf. "The probable ex- 
penditure of the state, will be above half a million of 
dollars^ to complete the design of the four buildings, as 
contemplated by the commissioners appointed by the 
state authorities. There were, according to the census of 
1840, 3,973 lunatics in the state. 

In addition to the Erie canal which passes through the 
centre of the city, the Chenango canal commences at 
this place, and terminates at Binghamton, in Broome 
county; the Utica and Schenectady Railroad and the S}Ta- 
cuse and Utica Railroad unite at this point, forming two 
of the principal links in the great chain of railroads, 
which are completed between the cities of Boston, Al- 
bany and Bulfalo. 



WESTERN TOUR. 135 

The city of Utica is surrounded by one of the finest and 
richest agricultural and manufacturing districts in the 
Union, and is a wealthy and flourishing place of business. 
The Erie canal through the city has been widened to 70 
and deepened to 7 feet, and presents a fine appearance 
from the several beautiful and well constructed bridges 
which span its breadth. Before the canal was widened, 
the several bridges were miserable looking structures, so 
low that boats could but just pass beneath. But now 
they are raised some six feet higher than formerly, and 
are really ornaments to the city. 

The principal hotels in Utica are chiefly situated on 
Genesee- street, of which the following are the most 
noted ,• Bagg's Hotel or Bleecker House ; American Hotel; 
Franklin House ; National Temperance House, and the 
McGregor House on Whitesboro'-street. 

Several daily lines of stages run from Utica, north and 
south. The following are the arrangements for 1844, or 
during the summ.er months : 

1. An accommodation coach leaves Utica daily, (Sun- 
day's excepted,) at'' 8 o'clock, A. M. for Denmark, 
62 miles north, where passengers can remain over night 
and take a stage next morning for Watertown and Sackett's 
Harbor, or for Ogdensburgh. 

2. The U. S. mail coach leaves daily at H P. M. or on 
the arrival of the cars from Albany, and proceeds directly 
through to Watertown and Sackett's Harbor, and via Den- 
mark to Ogdensburgh. 

3. A stage leaves at l^P. M. for Binghamton, 94 miles, 
and connects with stages running to Owego and Mon- 
trose, Pennsylvania. 

4. A stage leaves daily, (Sunday's excepted,) at 8 
A.M., for Hamilton, connecting with a canal packet 
boat for Binghamton. 

5. A stage leaves daily for Cooperstown, 44 miles. 



136 WESTERN TOUR. 

6. A stage leaves every Monday, Wednesday and Fri- 
day, at U P. M. for Ithaca, 96 miles. 

7. A stage leaves daily, (Sundays excepted,) at 8 A. 
M. for New Berlin, and connecting with a stage running 
to Mt. Pleasant, Pennsylvania, 

8. A stage leaves daily, (Sundays excepted,) at 1:|P. 
M. for Augusta, via Clinton, 

Extras can at all times be obtained by those who wish 
to visit Trenton Falls, or any of the places off the regu- 
lar stage routes. 

Trenton Falls, 18 miles northeast from Utica, and 
on the West Canada creek, in the town of Trenton, are 
among the most remarkable scenes in our country. The 
wild, secluded, and primeval aspect of the place serves 
greatly to heighten the effect of the striking spectacle pre- 
sented by the stream j and the whole is so deeply embo- 
somed in the primitive forest that no token of the long 
and deep gorge through which the waters rush, is visible 
till you are on its very brink. Within a distance of about 
2 miles there are no less than six distinct cascades, inter- 
changing with rapids as picturesque as the fallsithem- 
selves. 

The first fall, beginning up stream, is called the Upper 
Falls, and has a descent of about 20 feet. The river 
then dashes along its rocky bed about a mile, with a des- 
cent, in that distance, of about 20 feet more, to the second 
falls, called The Cascades. A little further down you 
come to the third fall, called the Mill-dam, from theregu- 
larity and smoothness of the ledge of rock, about 20 feet 
high, over which the waters pour. About 40 rods more, 
bring you to the High Falls. At this place the volume 
of the stream is separated, by rifts in the rock, into three 
distinct cataracts, having a perpendicular pitch of more 
than 100 feet. Here the chasm has become very deep, 



WESTERN TOUR. 137 

and the high wooded banks and cliffs of bare rock on each 
side combine with the cataracts to make a spectacle of 
wild and savage grandeur. About 70 rods further down 
you come to the fifth, or Sherman's Falls, having a 
descent of nearly 40 feet, from the foot of which the 
stream pours along a less rapidly descending bed to the 
sixth, or Conrad's Falls, a pitch of some 15 or 20 feet, 
and soon after, the river, escaping from the deep and 
dark ravine, flows onward between more sunny banks 
and through a softer landscape. 

The chasm for the whole distance, is cut through a 
vast mass of lime-rock, which abounds with organic re- 
mains ; and the path which the tourist must take, if he 
would obtain any adequate conceptions of the scene, is 
along a narrow shelf of rock near the foot of the high 
and in some places overhanging precipice, and on the 
immediate verge of rushing waters. This shelf is so 
narrow in several places, and so perilous, that it has 
been found necessary to guard it with a chain supported 
by iron standards let into the rock j though sad to 
say, this safe-guard was not furnished, till two inter- 
esting young females had been lost in the terrible flood. 
The entire descent of the stream, from the top of the 
Upper Falls to the foot of Conrad's Falls, is stated at 
312 feet. 

The village of Whitesborough, 3| miles westof IJtica, 
is situated on the south side of the Mohawk river. This 
is one of the oldest white settlements in this section of 
country, and has long been celebrated as a pleasant and 
attractive place of residence, being surrounded by fertile 
lands settled by an intelligent and wealthy communi- 
ty. It was incorporated in 1813, and now contains about 
1,800 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in manu- 
facturing pursuits ,• and it embraces within its corporate 

K 



138 WESTERN TOUR. 

limits, a settlement called Yorkville, located on Sada- 
quada creek, one of the most valuable mill streams in 
the state. 

Oriskany, 7 miles west of Utica, is a large manufac- 
turing place, situated on the Oriskany creek, near its 
junction with the Mohawk river. It contains about 1,200 
inhabitants, 200 dwelling houses, 2 churches, 4 public 
houses, 4 stores, and 2 large factory buildings, belonging 
to the " Oriskany Manufacturing Company," which an- 
nually manufacture into broad cloths and cassimeres about 
200,000 pounds of wool, giving employment to about 150 
men, women and children. The buildings, grounds and 
machinery of this establishment cost $200,000. 

It was here that the battle of Oriskany was fought, one 
of the bloodiest, in proportion to the numbers engaged, 
during the whole war of our Revolution, and in which 
Gen. Herkimer, of German Flats, lost his life. He was 
on his way with about 800 of the militia of the Mohawk 
Valley, to the relief of the garrison at Fort Stanwix, when 
at Oriskany, a deadly fire was opened on him and his 
corps, by a body of British regulars, tories, and Indians, 
from an ambuscade in a narrow ravine. The Americans 
were completely surrounded, but the gallant Herkimer 
and his brave compatriots maintained the fight for near 
six hours. Herkimer received his mortal wounds early 
in the fight, but he kept the field, seated on his saddle 
placed on a hillock, which gave him a view of the con- 
test, and from which he calmlj'- issued his orders to the 
last. This was on the 6th of August, 1777. 

The village of Rome, 14 miles west of Utica, is situa- 
near the head waters of the Mohawk, and on the line of 
the Erie canal, where it is intersected by the Black River 
Canal Feeder. It was incorporated in 1819, and is a 
half-shire town with Whitesboro' for Oneida county ; it 



WESTERN TOUR. 130 

'contains about 2,500 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses ; 
a court-house and jail; 6 churches^ 1 bank, 25 stores, be* 
sides 1 cotton factory, 1 ftaiiring mill, 1 saw mill, 1 brew* 
'«ry and 1 blast furnace. Here is located a United States 
arsenal ; and a number of work shops. This place stands 
on the site of old Fort Stanwix, which was an important 
military post during the Revolutionary and French wars. 
Owing to its natural and artificial advantages, this village 
is fast increasing in wealth and numbers. 

Oneida Depot, 27 miles west of Utica, and 26 from 
Syracuse, is a new settlement where the train of passen- 
ger cars usually stops some 10 or 15 minutes. One or two 
miles south of the depot is tlie incorporated village of 
Oneida Castle, near which resides a remnant of the 
-Oneida tribe of Indians numbering about 300 souls. 

Wampsville, 3 miles further west, is a small settle- 
ment through which passes the Syracuse and Utica rail- 
road, 

Canastota, 32 2 west of Utica by railroad, and on the 
Erie canal, was incorporated in 1835, and now contains 
about 800 inhabitants. 

Chittenango, 39 miles west of Utica, by railroad, 
is situated one mile south of the Erie canal, with 
which it is connected by a side-cut. It contains about 
1,000 inhabitants, 180 dwelling houses, 3 churches, 3 
taverns, 10 stores, 1 woollen factory, 1 flouring mill, 
and 2 large factories for the manufacture of water 
lime, which is found in this vicinity and is extensively 
used on the different public works of the state and for 
ether purposes. There is a sulphur spring one mile 
south of the village of Chittenango, of which the fol- 
lowing is an analysis, by Dr. Lewis C. Beck. 

Temperature 49^ F.; specific gravity 1.00341. 



140 WESTERN TOUR. 

The following is the composition of a pint of the 
water : 

Grains. 

Carbonate of lime, 0.88 

Sulphate of Soda, 1 . 66 

Sulphate of lime and magnesia, 12.75 

Chloride of Sodium, 0. 14 

Organic matter, traces. 

Total, 15.43 

Besides sulphuretted hydrogen, the water contains a 
small portion of carbonic acid gas. 

The village of Cazenovia, is situated on the Cherry- 
Valley turnpike, about 10 miles south of the Erie canal, 
118 miles from Albany. It was incorporated in 1810, and 
now contains about 1,600 inhabitants, 250 dwelling 
houses, and 4 churches of different denominations. Here 
is situated the Oneida Seminary, a theological institution 
sustained by the Methodist denomination of this and the 
neighboring states. 

Cazenovia Lake, is a small but beautiful sheet of 
water, in the town of the same name. It is 4 miles long 
by 1 mile in width, abounding in different kinds of fish. 

The village of Manlius, a few miles south of the 
Erie canal, is a thriving place. Manlius Centre is on the 
Erie canal, near the line of the Syracuse and Utica rail- 
road. 

Syracuse, 53 miles west of Utica, and 146 from Albany 
by railroad route, is situated on the line of the Erie canal, 
where it unites with the Oswego canal, one mile and a half 
south of Onondaga lake. It was incorporated in 1825, 
and now contains about 7,500 inhabitants, 900 dwelling 
houses, 8 churches of different denominations, 10 hotels 
and taverns, and an incorporated academy, 2 banking 
houses a court-house and jail and county clerk's office. 



WESTERN TOUR. 141 

Syracuse and its vicinity,, is celebrated for the immense 
quantity of salt which is annually made from the brine 
springs belonging to the state. No town in Western 
New- York, is no more rapidly increasing in wealth and 
numbers than this place. 

The traveller on going west from Sja-acuse to Roches- 
ter, has the choice of three modes of conveyance, viz: 
either by railroad, 105 miles, by canal packet, distance 
99 miles ; or by canal packet to Oswego and thence by 
steamboat to the mouth of the Genesee river, distance 
104 miles. 

In addition to the Erie canal, which passes through the 
centre of Syracuse, the Oswego canal commences at this 
point and terminates at the village of Oswego, connect- 
ing the Erie canal with Lake Ontario. The Syracuse 
and Utica and Auburn and Syracuse Railroads, unite in 
this place, opening a direct communication east and v/est, 
and a channel of trade with all the places on Lake Onta- 
rio and Canada. 

Geddes is an incorporated village 2 miles west of Syra- 
cuse, on the Erie canal, and within the bounds of the 
Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation. The most consider- 
able business of the place is the manufacture of salt. 

The village of Salina, in the town of the same name, 
is situated near the east end of Onondaga lake, 2 miles 
north of Syracuse. It was incorporated in 1824, and 
now contains about 2,600 inhabitants. Salina has long 
been celebrated for its valuable saline springs. Here are 
now yearly manufactured large quantities of fine salt, 
which finds a ready market in this and the western states, 
and Canada. 

Liverpool is another village principally engaged in 
the manufacture of salt. It stands near the northeasts 



142 WESTERN T0I7R. 

erly shore of Onondaga lake, and on the Oswego canal', 
about 5 miles from Syracuse. It contains about 1,000 
inhabitants. 

Syracuse', Salina, Liverpool, and Geddes, are all inclu- 
ded in the town of Salina and within the limits of the 
Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation; and though the 
original Reservation included a much larger extent of 
^urface than is occupied by these villages, yet these are 
the only portions of it within which the making of salt 
is carried on ; the state having sold to private citizens the 
whole of the Reservation not included within these vil- 
lages, as well as a very large part of what is included 
within their bounds. 

Salt was first made on this tract at Salt Point, near the 
margin of Onondaga lake and within the bounds of Sa- 
lina village. The manufacture, in very trifling quanti- 
ties, at that point, was carried on by the Indians prior to 
the appearance of any white man among them, as it 
was by the white men also, at a very early period of their 
settlement in that vicinity. The earliest systematic ar- 
rangments, so far as records show, for making salt, to 
any important extent, at that place, date as far back as 
1787, when works were erected which produced 10 bush- 
els daily — a very insignificant quantity when compared 
with the present extent and productiveness of the works 
on the Reservation. 

The total quantities made in the several villages men- 
tioned, and the aggregate during the year 1843, is shown 
in the following statement made up from the last annual 
report of the State Superintendent and Inspector to the 
Legislature pursuant to law. 



WESTERN TOUR. 143 

Total quantity of salt, fine and coarse, inspected on the 
Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation, in the year 1843. 
Place. BTzshels. 

Salina, 1,203,138.00 

Syracuse, 973,821.32 

Liverpool, 675,206.18 

Geddes, 275,334. 55 

Aggregate, 3,127,500. 05 

Of this aggregate, 2,732,863.43 bushels were of the 
kind called ^ne salt ; 318,105.34 bushels were of coarse 
salt; and 76,531.28 bushels were of the description 
called cZairy salt. 

The^^ne salt, which is so called from the small size of 
its crystals, is produced by the agency chiefly of artificial 
heat, and the process of evaporation is carried on by 
boiling the brine in large iron kettles. The coarse salt is 
produced exclusively by evaporation in the open air. It 
is sometimes termed solar salt, and the crystals are large. 
This salt is the purest muriate of soda known to com- 
merce. The dairy salt is so called from the particularly 
neat and convenient manner in which it is prepared and 
boxed for use in dairies. 

The state of New- York, as the proprietor of these 
salines, receives a duty of six cents a bushels on all the 
salt inspected on the Reservation; and the works are 
erected under written leases of the ground for specific 
terms of years, for making the fine salt ; and under li- 
censes somewhat of the character of conditional grants, 
for making the coarse salt ; but both are gratuitous, the 
duty being substituted for rent. 



144 WESTERN TOUR. 

The village of Oswego, 38 miles north of Syracuse, 
hy canal route, is situated on both sides of the Oswego 
river, at its entrance into Lake Ontario. It is a port of 
entry, was incorporated in 1828, and now contains about 
4,500 inhabitants, 500 dwelling houses, 2 Presbyterian, 1 
Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist and 1 Catholic church, 
besides a Bethel congregation, a custom-house, a court- 
house, 1 banking house, an insurance company, an in- 
corporated academy and a female seminary. The num- 
ber of vessels which arrive and depart from this port an- 
nually is very great,- there being owned at this place 
alone 6 steainboats and 70 schooners, averaging about 
100 tons burthen, besides a large number of canal boats. 
The harbor is capacious and safe, being protected by two 
large stone piers, constructed by the United States Go- 
vernment. On the end of the west pier is situated a light- 
house ; about half a mile above is a bridge extending 
across the river, 600 feet in length. An extensive for- 
warding business is done at this place by means of lake, 
river and canal navigation ; daily lines of steamboats 
for the conveyance of passengers run between Oswego, 
Sackett's Harbor, Kingston, and Ogdensburgb, on the 
north ; and Rochester, Toronto, and Lewiston, on the 
west. Connected with the above line of steamboats are 
railroads cars, canal packet lines and stages. During 
the winter months daily lines of stages run from Oswego 
northeast to Sackett's Harbor, Watertown and Ogdens- 
burgb, east to Rome and Utica, south to Syracuse, south- 
west to Auburn, and west to Rochester. 

At Oswego there are several well kept public houses. 
The Oswego House, on the east side of the river, and 
the United States Hotel, and the Welland House, on the 
west side, are the most frequented by pleasure travellers. 

The promonotory on the east side of the Oswego river, 
at its mouth, has been ceded to (he United States Govern- 



WESTERN TOUR. 145 

raent, and on it is situated old Fort Ontario, which has 
recently undergone extensive repairs, affording protection 
to the harbor and village of Osv^ego, A w^riter makes 
the following remarks in relation to this important mili- 
tary position : — •' This ancient work is within the pre- 
cints of our village, situated on the right bank of the 
Oswego river at the point of confluence with Lake Ontario. 
It was one of the old northwestern posts, the continued 
occupation ot which by the British, after the peace of '83, 
caused so much indignation on the part of the Govern- 
ment and the people of the United States, during the 
period of the "Washington administration. It was evacu- 
ated by Col. Grant, in 1795. The works, including the 
glacis and outposts, were extensive, and very considera- 
ble remains of them exist. Old Fort Oswego, which 
was situated on the left bank of the river, immediately 
opposite, is completely levelled and occupied by ware- 
houses and manufactories, a ship yard and marine rail- 
way. It is a matter of much satisfaction that the care 
of the Government is at last extended to Fort Ontario. 
In connexion with the navigation of Lake Ontario and 
the communications with the interior of the state and the 
Hudson river, it is probably the most important military 
position on the northern frontier." 

Sackett's Harbor, about 50 miles north of Oswego, 
and distant 35 miles from Kingston, Canada; possesses 
one of the best and most secure harbors on Lake Onta- 
rio, being situated on Black River Bay , 12 miles below 
the village of Watertown. It was an important naval 
and military station during the last war with Great Bri- 
tain, where now lays a large vessel under cover. Madi- 
son Barracks, garrisoned by United States troops, is 
handsomely situated near the landing, being in full view 
from the water. 



146 WESTERN TOUR. 

The village was incorporated in 1814, and now con- 
tains about 2,000 inhabitants. An hydraulic canal ex- 
tends from Black river near Watertown, to this place, on 
which are erected several mills and manufacturing estab- 
lishments. 

Watertown, is advantageously situated on the south 
side of Black river, a few miles above its entrance into 
Black river bay. The water power of this place is very 
great, and there is now a large amount of capital invest- 
ed in mills and in diiferent kinds of manufacturing estab- 
lishments, where hydraulic power is used. The village 
was incorporated in 1831, and now contains about 4,000 
inhabitants ; a court-house and jail ; a state arsenal ; 7 
churches ; 3 banking houses ; 8 hotels and taverns, and 
50 or 60 stores of different kinds. Stages leave Water- 
town daily for Utica, 82 miles distant. 



Lake Ontario, the most eastern of the great chain of 
Lakes of North America, is 180 miles in length, and 60 
miles in extreme breadth ; being about 485 miles in cir- 
cumference. The boundary line between the British Pos- 
sessions and the United States runs through the middle 
of the lake and so continues down the St. Lawrence to the 
45th degree of north latitude, where the river enters 
Canada. 

This lake is navigable throughout its whole extent for 
vessels of the largest size J audit is said to be, in some 
places upwards of 600 feet in depth. Its surface is eleva- 
ted 231 feet above the Atlantic, and lies 334 feet lower 
than Lake Erie, with which it is connected by the Niaga- 
ra river and by the Welland canal in Canada. It has also 
been proposed to construct a ship canal on the American 
side. The trade of Lake Ontario, from the great exten* 



WESTERN TOUB. 147 

of inhabited country surrounding it, is very considerable, 
and is rapidly increasing. Many sail vessels and spkn- 
did steamers are employed in navigating its w^aters, 
which owing to its great depth never freezes, except at the 
sides, where the water is shallow ; so that its navigation 
is not so effectually interrupted by ice as some of the 
other large lakes. The most important places on the 
Canadian or British side of Lake Ontario^ are Kingston, 
Coburg, Toronto, Hamilton, and Niagara j on the Ame- 
rican shor.e, the villages of Sackett's Harbor, Oswe- 
go, and Charlotte or Port Genesee. This lake is con- 
nected with the na,vigable waters of the Hudson river, 
by means of the Oswego and Erie canals. It receives 
numerous streams^ both from the Canadian and the Ame- 
rican sides, and abounds with a grent variety of fish of 
an excellent flavor. The bass and salmon in particular^ 
have a high reputation and are taken in large quantities. 
The passage across Lake Ontario in calm weather is 
most agreeable. At times both shores are hidden from 
view, when nothing can be seen from the deck of the vessel 
but an abyss of waters. The refractions which some- 
times take place in summer, are exceedingly beautiful. 
Islands and trees appear turned upside down ; and the 
white surf of the beach, translated aloft, seems like the 
smoke of artillery blazing away from a fort. The Bay 
of Quinte, on the north shore, in Canada, is a beautiful- 
ly winding and picturesque sheet of water. It is navi- 
gable for about 80 miles, and on its borders, are several 
flourishing settlements. 



148 WESTERN TOUR. 

SUMMER ARRANGEMENT, FOR 1844. 

Packet Boats running between Syracuse and Oswego, 

Distance 38 miles. — Usual time 7 hours. — Fare $1.50. 

Fare through from Syracuse to Niagara Falls by this 

route $4.50, (including meals,) by Canal Packet Boat 

and Steamboat. 

Packet boat Rochester, Capt. Wm. D. Stewart. 
" " Liberty. '' Francis Rood. 

The above boats form two daily lines, leaving both 
places at 7^ A. M. and 7 P. M.j connecting with steam- 
boats on Lake Ontario. 

LAKE ONTARIO ROUTE. 

Daily Line (Sundays excepted.) between Lewiston and 
Ogdensburgh. 

Steamer Lady or the Lake, Capt. J. J. Taylor, 
" Rochester, " H. N. Throop, 

'' St. Laavrence, '^ J. Van Cleve, 

«' Oneida, '' R. F Child, 

Will run daily, (Sundays excepted,) between Lewiston 
and Ogdensburgh, touching at the intermediate Canadi- 
an and American ports, as follows : 

D0WNWAR,DS. 

Leave Lewiston, daily, except Saturdays, at 3 P. M. 

'' Rochester, " " " at 11 P. M. 

*' Oswego, " except Sundays, at 8 A. M. 

" Sacketfs Harbor, '' " at 12 M. 

" Kingston, " '' at 4 P. M. 

Arriving at Ogdensburgh in the afternoon in time for 
the daily steamboats for Montreal, which run in connec- 
tion with this line. 

UPWARDS. 

Leave Ogdensburgh, daily, except Sundays, at 8 A. M- 
^ ^ ' " a a at 5 P.M. 

'' '' at 9 P.M. 

" '' at 11 A.M. 

'' '' at 6 P.M. 

ate A. M. 



Kingston, 
SacketVs Harbor, 
Oswego, 
Rochester, 
Toronto, 



u 



And arrive at Lewiston at 10 o'clock A. M. in time for 
the cars for Niagara Falls and Buffalo. 



WESTERNT TUUR. 



149 



Travellers taking this route west, will have an oppor- 
tunity to view by daylight Queenston Heights, and 
Brock's Monument 5 the beautiful scenery of the Niagara, 
and at its mouth the British and American Forts i on 
going north from Oswego to Sackett's Harbor, Kingston 
and Ogdensburgh, affords the interesting view of the St. 
Lawrence with its Thousand Islands. 



• LIST OF AMERICAN STEAMBOATS, 
Built and running on Lake Ontario, since their first introduction in 1816. 



When 








. : — . ;_«; 


built. 


Name. 


Tons 


Wlierc built. 


Remarks. 


1816 


Ontario, - - - - 


400 


Sackett's Hai-bor, 


Broken up. 


1818 


Sophia, - - - - 


75 


u « 


Broken up. 


1823 


Martiia Ogden, - 


150 


(( u 


Lost in 1832. 


1830 


Brownville, - - 


150 


Brownville, - - 


Ch'ed to Wm. Avery. 


1831 


Charles Carroll, - 


100 


Sackett's Harbor, 


Changed to America- 


1831 


Paul Pry, - - - 


50 


Ogdensburgh, - 


Broken up. 


1832 


United States, 


450 


u 


Laid up. 


1833 


Black Hawk,' - 


200 


French Creek, - 


Laid up. 


1834 


Oswego, - - - 


400 


Oswego, - - - 


Used as a timber ship. 


1836 


Oneida, - - - - 


300 


Oswego, - - - 


Lewistonto Ogdens'h. 


1837 


Telegi-aph, - - 


200 


Dexter, - - - 


Oswego to Kingston. 


1838 


John Marshall, - 


60 


Lake Erie, - - 


Runs fr. S. Harbor. 


1839 


St. Lawrence," - 


450 


Oswego, - - - 


Lewiston to Ogdens'h 


1839 


Express, - - - 


1.50 


Poultneyville, 


Rochester to Kingston 


1.S41 


Georj^e Clinton, - 


100 


Oswego, - - . 


U (C 


1.841 


President, - - - 


60 


"... 


Runs from Oswego. 


1842 


I.ady oftheLake, 


425 


" 


Lewiston to Ogdens'h. 


1843 


Rochester, - - - 


400 


u 


a a 



ERICSSON PROPELLERS. 



1841 


Vandalia, - - - 


1.50 Oswego, - - - 


Oswego to Chicago. 


1842 


Chicago, - - - 


150 " - - - 


a (( 


1842 


Oswego, - - - 


150 « - ^ - 


u u 


1843 1 New- York, - - 


150 " - - - 


li (C 



' Now named DolphixY, and owned in Canada. 



150 



WESTERN TOtJn. 



LIST OF BRITISH STEAMBOATS, BUILT AND RUNNING OTN 
LAKE ONTARIO. 



Wlieu 
built. 

1816 
1817 
1819 
1824 
1824 
1825 
1825 
1828 
1829 
iS30 

lasi 

1832 
1832 
1832 
1S33 
1833 
1833 
1833 
1834 
1834 
1835 
1837 
1837 
1838 
1839 
1839 
1840 
1840 
1840 
1840 
1840 
1841 
1841 
1841 
1841 
1842 
1842 
1842 
1843 



Name. 



Tons 



Frontenac, - - - 
Charlotte, - - - 
Dalhoasie, - - - 
Toronto, ^ - - 
Queenston, - - 
Canarla, - - - 
Niagara, - - - 
Alciope, - - - 
Sir James Kempt, 
Great Britain, - - 
Iroquois, - - - 
John By, - - - 
William 4th, - - 
Tran.?it, - - - - 
Britannia, - - - 
Coburg, - - - 
Kingston, • - - 
Brockville, - - - 
Com. Barrie, - - 
Union, .... 
St. George, - - - 
Sir Robert Peel, 
Gore, .... 
Queen Victoria, - 
Henry Gildersleve 
Oatai'io," - - - 
Highlander, - - 
Albion, . - - - 
America, - - - 
City of Toronto, 
Sovereign,! - - 
Princess Royal, 
Canada, - - . . 
Frontenac, - - - 
Sir Charles, - - 
Prince of Wales, 
Admiral, - - - 
Ch. Jus. Robinson 
Eclipse, - - - - 

BRITISH 



700 
150 
350 
200 
350 
250 
400 
4.50 
200 
700 
100 
100 
450 
350 
200 
500 
200 
3.50 
275 
300 
400 
350 
200 
200 
250 
300 
300 
200 
300 
509 
475 
500 
4.50 
200 
200 
200 
400 
400 
400 



Where built. 



Kingston, - - 

Prescott, - . 

Toronto, • - 

Queenston, - 

Toronto, - . 
Brockville, 

Niagara, . . 

Kingston, . . 

Prescott, - - 
u 

Kingston, - . 

Gananoque, • 

Oakville, - . 

Kingston, - - 

Coburg, - - 

Kingston, - - 

Brockville, - 

Kingston, - - 

Oakville, - - 

Kingston, - . 

Brockville, - 

Niagara, - - 

Kingston, - . 

Niagara, - - 
Coteau du Lac, 
BrockviUe, 

Niagara, - - 



Prescott, - 
Kingston, - 



Remarks. 



\iagara, 



t( 



Broken up. 
Broken up. 
Broken up. 
Broken up. 
j Broken up. 
Broken np. 
Broken up. 
Broken up. 
Broken up. 
Broken up. 
Broken up. 
Broken up. 
Tow boat. 

Toronto to LewistoS. 
Laid up. 
Laid up. 
Bay of Quinte. 
Bay of Quinte. 
Lost in 1842. 
Kingston to Hamilton. 
Laid up. 

Destroyed in 1838. 
Cobourg to Rochester. 
Hamilton to Lewistoii. 
King'n to Cot. du Lac. 

King'n to Cot. du Lac 
Bay of Quinte. 
Toronto to Rochester, 
Kingston to Toronto. 
Kingston to Toronto. 
Kingston to Toronto. 
King'n to Cot. du Lac: 
Bay of Quinte. 
Toronto to Hamilton. 
Bay of Quinte. 
Toronto to Rochester. 
Toronto to Lewiston. 
Toronto to Hamilton. 



GOVERNMENT VESSELS. 



18-35 


Traveller, - . 


- 350 


Niagara, - - - 




1838 


Experiment, - 


- 150 


Niagara, - - - 




1842 


Mohawk, - - 


- 150 


Kingston, . - - 


Iron vessel. 


1842 


Cherokee, - - 


- 700 


Kingston, . ' - - 





'Now Lord Sj/denham; she was run down tlie rapids of the St. Law- 
rence by Capt. Hilliard, in 1840, and plies between Quebec and Montreal. 

t First named Niagara. 

Note. — In addition to the above list of British steamboats of a large 
class, tliere are a number of smaller boats and Ericsson Propellers., 
running from Kingston to Montreal, down the rapids of the St. Law- 
rence and returning through the Rideau canal, carryij^ an immense 
amount of produce, merchandise, and passengers. 



western tour. 151 

Route from Syracuse to Buffalo. 

Camillus, 8 miles west of Syracuse, is situated on the 
iine of the Auburn and Syracuse Railroad. It contains 
about 600 inhabitants. 

The village of Jordan, is situated on the Erie Canal, 
19 miles west of Syracuse. It was incorporated in 1835j 
and now contains about 1,200 inhabitants. A railroad is 
contemplated from this place to Skaneateles, from which 
a branch road, already constructed to the Auburn and 
Syracuse railroad, is a part of the contemplated work. 

Skaneateles, 5 miles south of the line of the Auburn 
and Syracuse Railroad, is delightfully situated at the 
foot oi Skaneateles Lake. It was incorporated in 1833, 
and now contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The lake, 15 
miles long, and from a half a mile to a mile wide, is a 
beautiful sheet of w^ater, surrounded by well cultivated 
farms and country residences, and celebrated for its fine 
trout, which are taken in great abundance, weighing 
from 5 to 10 pounds. 

Auburn, is situated on the outlet of Owasco lake, 172 
miles west of Albany, and 8 miles south of the Erie ca- 
nal. It was incorporated in 1815, and contained in 1840, 
5,626 inhabitants. 800 dwelling houses, a court-housej 
jail, and county clerk's office. The Auburn State Prison, 
on the north side of the Owasco outlet a splendid 
edifice of the kind, was founded in 1816, and cost over 
half a million of dollars. Here is inclosed 10 acres of 
land, surrounded by a solid stone wall, from 16 to 40 feet 
in height and 3 feet thick. The main building, facing 
the east, is 3 stories high, besides the basement, sur- 
mounted by a turretted cupola, in which is an alarm bell. 
The wings are of two stories, the whole front being 276 
feet long, and the wings 242 deep by 45 feet wide, enclos. 



152 WESTERN TOUR. 

ing on three sides a court in the rear, about 190 feet 
square. The cells in the interior are built within the ex- 
terior front, are 5 stories high, surrounded by galleries. 
There are 770 of these separate cells, each cell being 7 
feet long, 3| feet wide, 7| feet high, and calculated to ac- 
commodate one prisoner during his relaxation from labor. 
In addition to the cells, the main building contains a 
chapel, a hospital, dining-room for the prisoners, cook- 
ing apartments, and store rooms ; besides apartments in 
the main front building, used as offices for the clerk and 
agent, and for the residence of the principal keeper. 
Here are now about 700 convicts, mostly engaged in dif- 
ferent kinds of mechanical pursuits, carried on in work- 
shops and under large sheds within the outside prison 
walls. Of these convicts. 570 are natives of the U. States, 
and 130 foreigners. 

The Jluburn Theological Seminary, is a large stone 
edifice, 4 stories high, above the basement, and will be 
200 feet front, when fully completed as designed. There 
is now, 1841, a front of 160 feet finished and occupied, 
under the charge of four professors, with about 80 stu- 
dents. It was chartered in 1820, and first went into ope- 
ration in 1821. 

The outlet of Owasco lake is a large and durable 
stream. Within the limits of the village there is a fall 
of about 100 feet, affording hydraulic power of great 
magnitude, much of which is yet unoccupied. The jiu- 
burn and Syracuse Railroad, terminates at this place, 
and extends to Syracuse, 26 miles. The Auburn and 
Rochester Railroad commences at the termination of the 
above road and runs to the city of Rochester, in rather a 
circuitous line, a distance of 79 miles. Stages leave Au- 
burn for Ithaca and Cortland on the south, and Oswego 
on the north, all of which connect with other lines of 



WESTERN TOUR. 153 

travel, running to different places. Auburn is one of the 
finest inland villages in the state ; its public and private 
buildings are generally constructed in a good style of ar- 
chitecture, coinbining elegance and durability, and it is 
altogether a very desirable place of residence. 

OwAsco Lake, a few miles southeast of Auburn, is 
12 miles long and about 1 mile wide, being celebrated 
for its picturesque scenery. The water is very transpa- 
rent, abounding in fish, and the banks rather rugged. 

Weedsport, 8 miles north of Auburn, is on the Erie 
canal. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains 
about 800 inhabitants. 

Port Byron, 3 miles west of the above place, and on 
the Erie canal, was incorporated in 1837, and now con- 
tains about 1,000 inhabitants. Here is an extensive flour- 
ing mill, with 12 run of stones. 

Montezuma, 205 miles from Albany, by canal route, 
is situated at the junction of the Cayuga and Seneca canal 
with the Erie canal ; it contains about 600 inhabitants, 
one church, tbree taverns and 5 stores. Here are a num- 
ber of saline springs, from which salt has been manufac- 
tured ever since the earliest settlement of this part of 
the country ; and the salt is of the best and purest quali- 
ty. " The specific gravity of this brine is 1.09767 ; and 
1,000 parts of it contain 129.33 parts of dry solid matter, 
or 12.93, in 100 parts of brine. This is within one per 
cent of the strength of much of the brine now worked in 
Onondaga county." 

The village of Cayuga, 10 miles west of Auburn, is 
situated on the east bank of Cayuga Lake ; it contains 
about 300 inhabitants, 50 dwelling houses, one church, 
two taverns and three stores. Here the celebrated " Cayu- 
ga Bridge" crosses the lake, which is upwards of a mile 
wide ; a new bridge has also been here erected for the 

L 



154 



WESTERN TOUR. 



railroad, still longer. A steamboat runs from this place 
to Ithaca, a distance of 40 miles. 



Tourists travelling for pleasure are recommended to 
deviate south on their arrival at the foot of Cayuga Lake 
and make the 

TOUR OF THE CENTRAL LAKES of NEW- YORK 
Cayuga Lake, which constitutes one of the Central 
Lakes of New- York, is 40 miles long and from 1 to 4 
miles wide ; it lies between the counties of Cayuga and 
Seneca, extending some 10 or 12 miles into Tompkins 
county. This lake, which is very deep, is navigated by 
steamboats from Cayuga Bridge to the village of Ithaca, 
stopping at the intermediate landings. It is a most beau- 
tiful sheet of water, surrounded by well cultivated farms 
and thriving villages ; and abounds with salmon trout, 
white fish, pike, pickerel, perch and catfish. On several of 
the inlets to this lake, towards the south, are most beauti- 
ful and picturesque water falls, well worthy the attention 
of the lovers of natural scenery. The outlet flows north 
into Seneca river. 

" The railroad route from Auburn to Rochester, carries 
you to the northern end of Cayuga Lake, where the rail- 
road crosses the water by a bridge a mile and a half long. 
At the village of East Cayuga, you can embark on the 
steamer Simeon De Witt, a fast, commodious and well 
regulated low-pressure boat, where every attention wiU 
be paid to your comfort and enjoj^ment. 

" In this vessel you pass up (south,) through the Cayuga 
Lake, which is 40 miles long, and varies from one to 
four miles in width. The extreme beauty of this sheet 
of water, transparent as crystal, being fed to a great ex- 
tent by living springs, and of prodigious depth, 500 feet 
of line failing to find bottom, its varying scenery, from 
the highly cultivated sloping shores at its northern end 



WESTERN TOUR. 155 

lo the wilder and more abrupt borders of its southern ex- 
tremity ; its similarity in some parts to, and contrast in 
others with the Hudson river scenery, have never failed 
to elicit from all who have passed over it, the highest 
admiration." 

As the boat proceeds southerly the different landings, 
passed in succession, are as follows : 

On the eastern shore, Union Springs, or Springpoet, 
where several mills find their supply of water from the 
number of springs which rise within a short distance of 
the shore. This is also the great locality of the gypsum 
or plaster, whence a large portion of the western coun- 
ties of this state, and the northern counties of Pennsyl- 
vania, derive their supply of this valuable manure. 

Levanna, a beautiful point, jutting out into the lake. 

Aurora, one of the oldest settled and most pictures- 
que villages in the western counties. The route changes 
here to the western shore, when the first landing is 

Sheldrake Point, a beautiful low promontory, ex- 
tending half a mile out from the main shore. Kidder's 
Ferry; PoRTLAND,-sand Frog Point, are next passed. 

Goodwin's Point, lies at the mouth of the Taghcanic 
creek, which has, a mile from its mouth, one of the 
most remarkable cataracts to be found in the country. 

Crossing the lake again to the eastern shore, the boat 
makes its last stop at 

Ltjdlowville Landing, the port of the village of 
that name, which lies a mile from the water, en an ele- 
vated spot, but not visible from the water. 

From this point, the suburbs of Ithaca, distant 9 
miles, crowning the eminence in the rear of the village, 
are visible, while still higher may be seen the line of the 
Ithaca and Owego Railroad distinctly marked by the 
house containing its stationary engine at the summit of 



156 WESTEIIN Toun. 

its inclined plane, which is elevated near 400 feet above 
the surface of the lake. The village of Ithaca is par- 
tially concealed by a dense forest from the eye, and is ap- 
proached from the lake throueh the Cayuga Inlet, a na- 
tural canal of two miles in length, winding through the 
plain on which the village stands. 

Ithaca, is beautifully situated on a flat one and a half 
miles above the head of Cayuga lake, with which it is 
connected by the Cayuga Inlet, navigable for steamboats 
to the village. It is 170 miles west from Albany, and 
distant 205 miles northwest from the city of New- York. 
This village was incorporated in 1821, having been found- 
ed about 1800, by the late Simeon Be Witt, surveyor- 
general of the state. It now contains about 4,000 in- 
habitants, 600 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, 
and a count}'' clerk's office ; one Presbyterian, one Dutch 
Reformed, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist 
and one African church ; three banking houses, with an 
aggregate capital of $650,000 ; nine hotels and taverns, 
and 46 stores and groceries. 

Within the chartered limits of the village is found hy- 
draulic povv-er equal to any in the state, for extent and 
facility of application. Fall Creek alone is capable of 
operating 133,000 cotton spindles at all seasons of the 
year ,• and the water power on Cascadilla and Six Mile 
creeks is verj'^ extensive. There are at present on these 
streams, 2 flouring mills, with 12 run cf stones ; 2 plas- 
ter mil's, 1 tanner3% 1 brev/ery, 1 paper mill, 3 furnaces, 
2 machine shops. 1 carding and cloth dressing establish- 
ment : 1 oil mill. 1 sash factory, a number of turning- 
shops, 2 tobacco factories, and 1 cotton factory, with 50 
looms ; besides which there has been recently established 
1 woollen factory, with $100,000 capital, and 7 sets of 



WESTERN TOUR. 157 

machinery ; anJ a new company has been organized for 
the manufacture of cotton. 

The site of the village is very beautiful • a portion of 
it lies upon the hiil, commanding a fine view of the lake 
and the valley of the inlet, v;ith the surrounding coun- 
try, which is well cultivated. The houses are tastefully 
and neatly built j and the streets, which cross each other 
at right angles, and are lined with choice shade trees, 
form vistas opening upon charming views of the adjacent 
hills. The location of this village with reference to trade, 
is equally advantageous. By means of Cayuga lake, and 
the Cayuga and Seneca canal, it communicates vrith the 
Ei'ie canal ; and by the Ithaca and Ovvxgo Railroad with 
the Susquehanna river, and the line of the New- York and 
Erie RaiRad. Thus, while enjojdng equal advantages 
with other western villages for intercourse with the cities 
on the Hudson, it partakes in the growing trade in pias- 
ter, salt, lime, flour and merchandize, carried into Penn- 
sylvania in exchange for coal and iron. The completion 
of the New- York and Erie Railroad wall open to this 
place still further advantages by furnishing an avenue for 
winter trade with the sea board, wdiile it will present at 
all seasons a cheap and expeditious route for travel. A 
beautiful steamboat for the convej-ance of passengers, 
and one used in towing canal boats, run daily between 
Ithaca and Cayuga Bridge, a distance of 40 miles. Daily 
lines of stages also leave here for Geneva, Auburn, New- 
burgh and the city of New- York ; besides tri- weekly 
stages, running east, west, north and south, to different 
places. 

To tourists the great attraction of Ithaca consists in its 
scenery. Built in a valley, hemmed in by an extension of 
the lofty hills which form the shores of the lake, it is sur- 
rounded by scenery of the most attractive character. From 



158 WESTER]!? TOUR. 

the heights which encircle it three large streams within 
the village, and within four miles south, several others, 
fall with rapid descent to the plain, forming cascades of 
surpassing beaut)' and sublimity. In a single day, a 
number of water falls, equaling the famed Trenton Fallg, 
may be visited. 

The following is a brief description of the Falls at and 
near Ithaca: 

The falls of Fall Creek are near the village, and are seen* 
on entering the village by the Auburn stage road. Their 
height is 150 feet, with the same breadth. The "water 
of this creek, collected in a dam above the fall, is con- 
veyed to the mills below, through a tunnel 9 feet square, 
and 300 feet long, hewed through a jutting promontory 
rock, at a distance of 40 feet below the sui-face of the 
ground. The curious visiter after passing through the 
tunnel, finds himself in the bed of the creek^ between 
rock walls more than 100 feet high. The view from this 
point is grand and impressive. The visiter proceeds a 
short distance from this, up the rocky bed of the creek, 
until his steps are arrested by another splendid fall ; the 
bank presenting the most curious forms and the most sur- 
prising strata. The fall is beautiful 5 it is not so high as 
the preceding, but it is more wild ; the water pours over 
in large sheets, commencing, as it w-ere, from the top- 
most ledge, and then spreading out wildly and boldly be- 
low. The basin into w'hich the water falls is also very, 
picturesque. 

There are two more falls beyond these, which, with 
the others, make the descent 438 feet in the short space 
of one mile. 

On the Six Mile Creek, Cascadilla Creek and on the 
Buttermilk Creek, there are also a great number of beau- 
tiful and romnntic falls, all worthy of particular notice 



WESTERN TOUR. 159 

and equal to any thing in this country. These are all near 
the village. 

On the Five Mile Creek, vv^hich is four miles south 
from Ithaca, is one of the most interesting cataracts in 
the country, surpassed by none here enumerated. 

At Goodwin's Point there is still another fall, called 
the Taghcanic. This point is a place where the steam- 
boat lands daily. The ravine is ascended for about a 
quarter of a mile, and then the eye is amazed with a 
fall of water of 200 feet in perpendicular height, a 
breadth of 20 feet, and banks of 360 feet high. 

On going south from Ithaca j^ou take the Ithaca and 
Owego Railroad for Owego, distant 30 miles, where you 
reach the line of the New- York and Erie Railroad. 

Owego is a pleasant village, situated on the north bank 
of the Susquehanna river, and is destined, as the point of 
union of the Ithaca and Owego, and the New- York and 
Erie Railroads, to be a place of importance. The Owego 
Creek supplies it with a valuable water power. From 
this place you take conveyances and descend southwes- 
terly the Susquehanna river, to the village of Athens, in 
the state of Pennsylvania, at the confluence of the Sus- 
quehanna and Chemung rivers ; and from this point 
changing your course northwesterly you ascend the latter 
stream to the village of Elmira, situated at its point of 
union w'ith the Chemung canal, which unites the waters 
of the Chemung river with Seneca lake, 32 miles west 
of Owego, the entire route being along the line of the New 
York and Erie Railroad. There is not probably in any 
part of New-York, a route so abounding in varied beauties 
of soft and pastoral, sublime and mountain scenery as 
this. All travellers agree in saying that this portion of 



160 WESTKltJf TOLR 



O 



the tour would amply repay them for their divergence 
from the old line of travel. 

The village of Elmira is another of those beautiful 
places which, by the enterprise of our yeomanry have 
sprung up far from the great travelled roads, unknown 
because unseen, and yet from its position and local ad- 
vantages, will soon be a large and important place. 

From Elmira by carriage you traverse northerly the 
route of the Chemung Canal, 19 miles, to the village of 
Jefferson, on the inlet of the Seneca Lake, where the 
steamer receives you, and carrying you through this sheet 
of water, in every respect the equal of its sister Cayuga, 
lands you at the beautiful village of Geneva, on the 
grand route, 15 miles west from the point where you com- 
menced the Tour of the Middle Lakes.* 



The village of Seneca Falls, 15 miles west of Au^ 
burn, and 187 miles from Albany, is advantageously situa- 
ted on both sides of the outlet of Seneca lakej it was in- 
corporated in 1831, and now contains about 3,000 inha- 
bitants ; 400 dwelling houses ; 5 churches of diiferent de- 
nominations j 1 cotton factory, and 8 flouring mills. In 
this neighborhood are large quantities of gypsum, which 
is here ground and sent to different parts of the country. 
The Cayuga and Seneca canal and the Auburn and Ro- 
chester Railroad, pass through this village. The water 
power afforded by the Seneca outlet is very great; the 
descent from Seneca to Cayaga lake, a distance of 12 
miles, being about 75 feet. The stream is abundant, and 
not subject to freshets, scarcely ever having a rise to 
exceed two feet; the hydraulic power is great, and is but 

' Travellers from the west, on their return from Niagai'a, will under- 
stand that the reverse of the above proposed tour is to pe adopted, com- 
mencing at Geneva, and ending at East Cayuga 



WESTERN TOUR. 161 

partially employed. At Seneea Falls, there is a descent 
of upwards ot 40 feet within the distance of one mile. 
Here are five locks in the Cayuj^a and Seneca canal, 
which unites with the Erie canal at Montezuma. 

Wateeloo, 191 miles west of the city of Albany, is 
handsomely situated on both sides of the outlet of Seneca 
lake, which is in part used as the Cayuga and Seneca 
canal. It was incorporated in 1824, and now contains 
about 2,600 inhabitants, 350 dwelling hoijses, a court- 
house and jail, being a half shire town with Ovid : 1 
Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist 
church ; an academy ; 8 hotels and taverns j 1 banking 
house,- 25 dry goods, grocery and other stores ; 1 large 
woollen factory, which manufactures over 200,000 pounds 
of wool annually, and 5 flouring mills, containing 18 run 
of stone. The fall of water at this place is about 16 
feet. In this immediate vicinity are quarried large quan- 
tities of limestone, extensively used for building. In ad- 
dition to the Cayuga and Seneca canal, the Auburn and 
Rochester Railroad passes through this village, which is 
about equi-distant between Cayuga and Seneca lakes. 

Geneva, 27 miles west of Auburn, and 191 miles from 
Albany, is beautifully situated near the foot, or north 
end of Seneca lake, on the w^estern side. The principal 
part of the village which is devoted to the residences of the 
inhabitants, lies upon a ridge along the banks of the lake, 
and elevated about 100 feet above its surface, while the 
business part extends to the plain which lies at the foot 
of the lake, and but little elevated. The land west ol 
the village is peculiarly formed, consisting of a succession 
of ridges parallel to the lake, and rising higher and high- 
er for some distance, commanding a view of its waters, 
as if formed for choice residences in this region of beau- 
ty. The village was incorporated in 1812, and now con- 



162 WESTERA' TOUR. 

tains about 3,600 inhabitants, and 500 dwelling houses 
The Geneva College, attached to which are three build- 
ings, and the Geneva Lyceum, are located here; and 6 
churches of different denominations. The new Episco- 
pal church is a splendid edifice, erected at a cost of about 
$30,000. The accommodation for strangers at Geneva 
is very good, there being several well kept hotels ; and 
carriages are always in readiness at the railroad depot 
and steamboat landing, to convey passengers to any part 
of the village. Two or three steamboats ply regularly 
on the lake, running daily up and down between Geneva 
and the village of Jefferson at the head of the lake ; con- 
necting with stages to Elmira and Corning ; and at the 
latter place with the railroad to Blossburg. in Pennsyl- 
vania, A boat is employed in towing canal boats, which 
come to Geneva by the Cayuga and Seneca canal, a 
branch of the Erie canal, and thence to the villages on 
the lake, and to the canal which connects this lake with 
Crooked Lake, and the Chemung canal, leading from 
Jefferson to the Chemung river at Elmira, and by the feeder 
to Corning. By the Blossburg Railroad and the canal just 
mentioned, a large quantity of coal from the Blossburg 
mines, passes through this village on its way to market. 
Near the canal basin at the northern part of the village, 
passes the Auburn and Rocliester Railroad; and probably 
ere many years the intercourse now not difficult by the 
canals, stages and the Blossburg Railroad, with the sys- 
tem of canals and railroads in Pennsylvania, will open 
through the Seneca lake which is never frozen, an easy 
and direct communication with the south. The meri- 
dian of the capital at "Washington passes through, the 
lake about half a mile east of Geneva. 

Geneva College, received its charter in 1825, and is a 
flourishing institution. The college buildings, three in 



WESTERN TOUR. 163 

number, are beautifully situated on Main- street, over- 
looking Seneca lake. A large and handsome building 
is about being erected on the same street for the use of 
the medical department. 

Seneca Lake, is one of the largest as well as the 
most beautiful of the numerous lakes, which so much a%^ ,^ 
adorn western New- York. It extends from south to 
north 40 miles, and varies in width from 2 to 4 miles. It 
is very deep, and in consequence is never frozen. The 
depth is not accurately known, but w^as found a year or 
two ago to be 560 feet about 12 miles above the outlet. 
The lands about the south end of the lake are high and 
picturesque j about the northern less elevated, but undu- 
lating, and covered with the richest crops, with here and 
there remains of the magnificent primitive forest. The 
outlet of the lake is at the northeastern angle, and the 
discharge of waters furnishes an ample supply of power 
to the manufactories of Waterloo and Senaca Falls, ^ 

which flourishing villages are situated, the former about 
six and the latter ten miles from the lake. Seneca lake 
receives the water of Crooked lake at Dresden, about 12 
miles above Geneva. The outlet of Crooked lake is 
about 6 miles in length, and the descent to Seneca lake 
about 270 feet. A canal constructed along this outlet con- 
nects the two lakes. Seneca lake does not so much abound 
with fish as some of the other lakes, probably in conse- 
quence of the depth and coldness of the w^aters. There 
are found in it, however, white-fish, pike, pickerel, 
trout, perch, herring, rock-bass, striped-bass, chub, sun- 
fish, cat-fish, eels, shiners, mullet, &c. 

Lyons, 16 miles north of Geneva, is eligibly situated 
on the Erie canal, 181 miles west of Albany by mail 
route. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains # 
about 1,800 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, a coutt- 



164 WESTERN TOUR. 

house and jail, county clerk's and surrogate's ofUce ; 1 
Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Baptist and 1 
Lutheran church. Stages leave Lyons daily for Geneva, 
Rochester, Scdus Point and Syracuse, in addition to com- 
modious canal packets vv'hich pass and repass twice 
daily. 

The village of Clyde, is 9 miles east of Lyons, on the 
Erie canal. It was incorporated in 1835, and now con- 
tains about 1,000 inhabitants. 

Newark, 7 miles v/est of Lyons, and on the Erie ca- 
nal, is an active place of business, and contains about 
1,200 inhabitants. 

Palmyra, 15 miles west of Lyons, on the Erie canal, 
was incorporated in 1828, and now contains about 2,000 
inhabitants.* It is situated on an elevated and dry piece 
of ground, in the midst of a delightful wheat grov/ing 
country. The main street is over one mile and a quarter 
I in length, and at each end touches the canal ; it is inter- 

sected by cross streets of ample width, many of which 
are ornamented by beatiful shade trees. 

On leaving Geneva, going west by railroad, you incline 
to the north, passing through a fine section of country, 
for which the county of Ontario is justly celebrated. 

Vienna, 8 miles from Geneva, is a flourishing place, 
on the outlet of the Canandaigua lake, at the junction of 
Flint creek. There are two settlements about one mile 
apart, known as East Vienna and West Vienna. 

Clifton Springs, 3 miles west of Vienna, are resorted 
to for their medicinal properties, and have become some- 
what celebrated. They are sulphur springs, of a similar 
character to many others to be found in Western New- 
York. 

Short's Mills, is the name given to a small settle- 
N( ment on the line of the railroad, 5 miles further west. 



WESTERN TOUR. 165 

Canakdaigxja, is delightfully situated near the foot of 
Canandaigua lake, 222 miles west of Albany by railroad. 
It was incorporated in 1815, and now contains about 
2,700 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses, a court-house, 
jail, surrogate's office, county clerk's office and town 
house ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Metho- 
dist, and 1 African church; 2 banking houses and a 
saving's bank. Wo place in the state probably exceeds 
this village as a desirable place of residence; being sur- 
rounded by a rich agricultural district abounding in al- 
most everj^ luxury for which Western New-York is so 
justly celebrated. On the south, at a short distance, lies 
Canandaigua lake, with its cultivated shores, infuU view 
of this abode of taste and opulence. 

Canandaigua Lake, is a most beautiful sheet of wa- 
ter, IS miles long, and from 1 to 1| miles wide, lying 
mostly in the county of Ontario, and a small part in 
Yates county ; it is surrounded by well cultivated lands, 
celebrated for their fertility, diversified by charming sce- 
nery. Its waters, which are deep and clear, abound with 
fish of different kinds, and are elevated 670 feet above 
the Atlantic ocean. Ccmandaigua Outlet flows northeast 
into Flint creek, thence into Cl;/de and Seneca river ; all 
of which are important mill streams. 

The village of Victor, is 9 miles west of Canandaigua, 
and a little to the north of the railroad. 

PiTTSFORD, 12 miles further, is on the line of the Erie 
canal, near its intersection with the railroad. It was in- 
corporated in 1827, and nov/ contains about 700 inhabi- 
tants. 

Brighton, 4 miles east of Rochester, is also on the 
ine of the Erie canal. 



166 WESTERN TOUR. 

The City of Rochester, 251 miles from Albany, 
by railroad, is advantageously situated on both sides of the 
Genesee river, and on the line of the Erie canal. 6 miles 
south of Lake Ontario, w^ith which the Genesee affords 
good water communication for steamboats and schooners 
from the landing at Carthage, three miles below the centre 
of the city. It was chartered as a city in 1834, and is di- 
vided into 5 wards, being governed by a Mayor, Recorder 
and board of Aldermen. It contained in 1840, 20,202 
inhabitants, mostly engaged in mercantile and manufac- 
turing pursuits ,• about 2,000 dwelling houses ; a court- 
house, jail and county clerk's office ; 2 public markets, 6 
banking houses, 1 saving's bank, 1 mutual insurance com- 
pan ; 5 Presbyterian, 2 Epispcopal, 2 Baptist, 2 Metho- 
dist, 2 Roman Catholic, 1 Unitarian, 1 Covenanters, 2 
Friends' meeting houses, 1 Universalist, 1 Lutheran and 

1 Christian church j a museum j a collegiate institute; 

2 female seminaries ; 2 orphan asylums, and 2 arcade 
buildings. 

Steamboats arrive and depart daily during the season 
of navigation, from the landing|on the south of the city, 
and from Charlotte at the mouth of the river. Besides 
the steamboat, canal and railroad routes, diverging from 
this place, several lines of daily stages also centre here, 
running to different places for the accommodation of tra- 
vellers. 

The natural and artificial curiosities of Rochester and 
its vicinity are well worthy of notice. The most impor- 
tant of them are the Genesee Falls, which are seen to the 
greatest advantage from the east side of the river, a short 
distance below the railroad bridge ,• the noble aqueduct 
for the enlarged canal, is a splendid specimen of ma- 
son work ; other falls and bridges, together with the 
Mount Hope Cemetery, to the south of the city, all giv- 



WESTERN TOUR. 167 

ing to Rochester many points of attraction well worthy 
the attention of the traveller. 

The hotels are numerous^ and most of them well kept, 
affording every desirable luxury in abundance. 

To the immense water power which Rochester posses- 
ses, by means of a succession of falls in the Genesee 
river, may be justly ascribed her rapid growth and sub- 
stantial wealth. There are now within the limits of the 
city, and all using water power, 21 flouring mills, with 
108 run of stones ; 2 woollen factories, 1 cotton factory, 
1 wrought- iron forge, 4 iron foundries, 11 'machine 
shops, 2 brass foundries, 1 plaining and flooring mill, 1 
veneering mill, 2 paper mills, 1 oil mill, 4 tobacco and 
snuff factories, 7 saw mills, 1 pail factory, 3 pump fac- 
tories, 2 shoe-peg factories, 2 edge-tool factories, 1 thresh- 
ing machine and fanning mill factory, 1 chair factory, 2 
last factories, 2 stave manufactories, 1 sash factory, 3 
wood turning establishments, 4 tanneries, 3 distilleries 
and 3 breweries. Within the limits of the city, a dis- 
tance of 3 miles, the total fall of water is nearly 300 feet, 
affording an almost inexhaustible supply of water power, 
which is but partly used. The immense amount of flour 
manufactured at this place alone, gives employment to a 
great number of persons. These mills are capable of 
making 5,000 barrels of flour per day, consuming, when 
under full headway, about 25,000 bushels of wheat daily. 
There are upwards of twenty forwarding establishments 
connected with the trade of the Erie and Genesee Valley 
canals, besides a limited shipping interest on Genesee 
river and Lake Ontario. 



168 WESXEKN TOUR, 

STAGES LEAVING ROCHESTER. 

Daily Lines, 

1. From Rochester to Lockport, via Ridge Road, 64 
miles; usual fare, $2.50; connecting at Lockport with 
the railroad extending to Lewiston and Niagara Falls. 

2. From Rochester to Lockport, via Canal Route, 62 
miles ; usual fare, $2.00. Leaves daily, (Sunday's ex- 
cepted.) 

3. From Rochester to Bath, Steuben Co. via Geneseo 
and Dansville, 75 miles ; usual fare, $3.00 ; connecting 
with stages running to Corning and Elmira. 

Tri-weekly Lines. 

4. From Rochester to Olean, Cattaraugus Co. via 
Mount Morris and Angelica, 96 miles ; usual fare, $4.00. 
Leaves Rochester Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays ; 
leaves Olean, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. 

5. From Rochester to Oswego, 76 miles ; usual fare, 
$4.00. Leaves Rochester, Tuesdays, Thursdays and 
Saturdays, at 6^ A BI.,' leaves Oswego on Mondays, 
Wednesdays and Fridays, at 4 A. M. 

The Genesee Valley Canal, commences at Rochester, 
and ascends the rich valley of the Genesee, being now 
finished to Mount Morris, a distance of 37 miles, with a 
branch to Dansville, a total length of 52 miles. Passage 
boats run daily on this canal to the above places, stop- 
ping at the intermediate landings on the route. 

The most noted place of resort in the Valley of the 
Genesee, is Avon Springs, 20 miles south of Roches- 
ter. The village is delightfully situated about half a 
mile east of the right bank of the Genesee river, and 
two miles from the Genesee Valley canal, on an elevated 
terrace about one hundred feet above the river, command- 
ing an extensive prospect of the rich Genesee Valley and 
urrounding country. 



WESTERN TOlUKo 169 

Connecte.'l with the village, en the southwest, are the 
justl}^ famed medicinal springs, giving celebrity to the 
place. The two principal springs are distinguished as 
the Upper and Lower Springs, distant from each other 
about 80 rods. They prssess similar properties, differing 
only in the relative quantities of the same mineral ingre- 
dients. Analysis and experience have fully tested the san- 
ative properties of these waters. They are found peculiar- 
ly efficacious in disorders of the digestive organs, rheuma- 
tic complaints and gout, in all sorts of cutaneous ailcc- 
tjons, and in every kind of obstructions. 

There are several well-kept hotels both at the village 
and near the Springs. The most noted are the Avon Ea- 
gle Hotel, kept by O.. Comstock j the Avon Hotel, or 
Hosmer House, kept by H. R. Phillips ; the Knicker- 
bocker Hall, kept by D. Knickerbocker, and the Spring Hc» 
tel, kept N, Houghton. The two latter are situated near 
the springs, the two former in the village. The accom- 
modations for bathing are also extensive and hanJsome- 
iy arranged, there being three establishments ; altogether 
affording great attractions not only for the invalid but for 
the seeker of pleasure. 

The following is an analysis of the lower spring, which 
is the most esteemed for drinking. 

One gallon contains : 

Carbonate of lime, 23.33 grains. 

Chloride of calcium, 8.41 •' 

Sulphate of lime, 57.44 " 

Sulphate of magnesia, 49.61 " 

Sulphate of soda, 13.75 ^' 



Amount of saline ingredients 15S 52 



Carbonic acid, 3.92 cubic inches. 

Per volume, sulphuretted hydrogen 

gas, 10.02 

Nitrogen gas, 5.42 

Oxygen gas, - . . . 56 

M 



<( 



170 WESTERN TOUR. 

The temperature of these waters is 45 degrees of Fah- 
renheit ; specific gravity, 10.018; quantity of water dis- 
charged, 54 gallons per minute. 

On returning from Avon to Rochester, the traveller has 
a choice of two conveyances, by canal boats or stages. 

There are several modes of conveyance from Roches- 
ter, west to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. The route by 
railroad to Buffalo, 74 miles is the most expeditious. 
The canal route, 95 miles, is a cheap and comfortable 
mode of travelling ; in addition to which, steamboats run 
daily, during the season of navigation, from Carthage, 
3 miles below the centre of the city, to Lewiston, and 
thence passengers are conveyed by railroad cars to Niaga- 
ra Falls and Buffalo. 

Railroad Route from Rochester to Buffalo. 
The Tonawanda Railroad, extends west from Rochester, 
through the villages of Churchville and Bergen. 

Batavia, 32 miles west of Rochester, and 283 from 
Albany, by railroad route, is pleasantly situated on 
a plain, through which flows the Tonawanda creek ; it 
was incorporated in 1823, and now contains about 2,000 
inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and 
county clerk's office, a state arsenal, the general land of- 
fice of the Holland Land Company ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 
Episcopal, 2 Baptist and 1 Methodist church ; a female 
seminary in a flourishing condition ; 2 banking houses, 
and 7 hotels and taverns. Stages run from Batavia south, 
to Warsaw; and north, to Albion and Lockport. 

The village of Attica, 11 miles from Batavia, and on 
the Tonawanda creek, is the western terminus of the 
Tonawanda Railroad. It is an active place of business, 
containing about 800 inhabitants. 

The Attica and Buffalo Railroad, is 3 1 miles long, 
terminating at the city of Buffalo. The total distance 
from Albany to Buffalo, by railroad route, is 325 miles. 



WESTERN TOUR. 171 

Canal Route from Rochester to Buffalo. 

Brockport, 20 miles west of Rochester, and 289 by 
canal from Albany, is handsomely situated on the Erie 
canal ; it was incorporated in 1829, and now contains 
about 2,000 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, 1 Presby- 
terian, 1 Episcopal, and 1 Methodist church j and a col- 
lege building now used as an academy. 

l"he village of Holley, 5 miles west of Brockport, 
contains about 350 inhabitants. Sandy Creek flows 
through this place, over which the canal passes by means 
of an embankment, 75 feet above the bed of the stream, 
which is conveyed under it by a culvert. 

Albion, on the Erie Canal, 60 miles from Buffalo, and 
304 miles from Albany, by canal route ; was incorporated 
in 1829, and now contains about 1,400 inhabitants, 200 
dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and county clerk's 
office ; 2 banking houses ; an incorporated academy and 
Phipp's fer/.ale seminary, both in a flourishing condition, 
to each of which is attached large brick edifices ; 1 Pres- 
byterian, 1 Baptist and 1 Methodist church ; 3 taverns, 
18 stores and groceries, 7 ware-houses and 1 flouring mill. 
Here is a canal collector's office and a convenient landing. 

The village oi Gaines, 1 or 2 miles north of Albion, 
and on the Ridge Road, was incorporated in 1832, and 
now contains 6 or 700 inhabitants. 

The Alluvial Way, or Ridge Road, is a work of 
nature, extending from the Genesee river, near Roches- 
ter, to the Niagara river, near Lewistcn. It is a gently 
curving ridge composed of beach sand and gravel stoneSj 
apparently worn smooth by the action of water. Its ge- 
neral width is from 6 to 8 rods, raised in the middle, and 
the top presents an excellent road, called the "Ridge 
Road," extending upwards of 80 miles, being from 6 to 
10 miles south of the present shore ol Lake Ontario, of 
which it once no doubt formed the beach. . 



172 WESTERN TOUR. 

Kxov.'LF.sviLLK, 7 milcs Avpst of x\lbion, is an incor- 
porate] village on the line of the Erie canaJ, anJ ccr.<= 
tains about 590 inhabitants. 

Medina, 4 rai'es further west, on the Erie c^nal, v/aa 
incorporate,! in 1332, ani now contains about 900 inhabi- 
tants, 130 dwelling houses, ani several mills and manu- 
facturing establishments. 

MiDELEPORT, 17 miles west cf Albion, contains about 
400 inhabitants. 

Gasport, 5 miles further west, lakes its name from 
several mineral burning springs cf some celebrity, situat- 
e.i near the line cf the canal. The gas is used for do- 
mestic purposes. 

The village of Lockport is en the Erie canal, 31 miles 
northeast of Buffalo, ani from Albany by canal route, 
333 miles. It was incorporateJ in 1327, ani now con- 
tains about 6,500 inhabitants, 800 dwelling houses, a 
court-house, jail ani county clerk's office ; 2 Presbyte- 
rian, 1 Congregational, 2 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Metho- 
dist, 1 Roman Catholic, 1 Lutheran ani 1 African church ; 
besides an Orthodox and Hicksite meeting house. 

The hydraulic power derived from the surplus waters 
of the Erie Canal at this place, is sufficient to propel at 
least 300 run of mill stones, and is admirably located fcr 
an extensive manufacturing town. In addition to the 
Erie canal which passes through the centre of the village, 
the Loc'sport ani Nia^ar'f- Falls Railroad commences 
at this place, ani runs to Niagara Falls, 24 miles ; the 
Buffalo and Niazara Falls Railroad extends a further 
distance of 22 miles to the city of Bufialo, afforiing a 
speedy communication for travellers visiting the Falls 
ani Buffalo. Here are now re- building ten combined 
locks, to be constructed cf lime rock in the most finished 
style cf mascnry, to acccmmcdale the enlarged Erie ca- 



WESTERN TOUR. 173 

nal. Lcclcpcrt has sprung up and keccme cne cf our 
largest in'ani villages since the completion cl' the above 
canal, deii/ing its name from the above locks. Here is 
the first fall of water between this place anJ Lake Erie, 
there being a descent of about 60 feet. A daily line cf 
stages run from this place to Batavia, and to Rochester 
by the ridge road, in addition to daily lines of canal 
packet beats running east and west. 

From Lockport to Lewiston, the Falls of Niagara, and 
EufFalo, travellers are speedi y taken by railroad ; the ca- 
nal boats though slower are cheap and ccmicrtable. The 
principal villages through which the Erie canal passes 
from Lockport to Buffalo, are Tonawanda, 19 miles 
distant, and where the line of the canal approaclies 
the Niagara river, and Black Rock, 3 miles from Buf- 
falo. Here is a long stone pier and dam, which 
answers tlie double purpose of raising the water of the 
outlet of Lake Erie, so as to feed the canal, and far- 
nish a vast amount of hydraulic power. 

At Buffalo, 364 miles from Albany by canal route, is 
the terminus cf the Erie canal. Here a plan has been 
proposed to construct an extensive basin, to accommodate 
the immense number of canal beats that navigate this ar- 
tificial river, connecting the waters of the great inland 
seas of America, with the Atlantic ocean. 

The United States government is constructing fcetweerx 
Buffalo and Black Rock, an extensive and strong fortress, 
on a scale suitable for the defence cf so important a point. 
It is situated on a rise cf ground about a mile and a half 
north of the cilj' — that is, about halfway to Black Rock 
— and neaidy opposite to the site of Fort Erie, en the 
Canada side, which was made memorable by the sortie 
of Gen. Porter, then of Black Rock, and his volunteers, 
on the ITth of August, in the glorious campaign cf 1SI4 



174 WESTERN TOUR. 

Niagara Falls, the admiration and wonder of all 
who behold them, are situated in the Niagara river, about 
equi-dislant between Lakes Erie and Ontario, and 330 
miles west of Albany, by the most usually travelled route. 

For an accurate, well drawn, detailed description of the 
Falls, the tourist is referred to " Orr's Pictorial 
Guide to Niagara Falls," published in 1842, inas- 
much as the different views, features, and points of at- 
traction, are sufficiently numerous and interesting to form 
a volume of themselves. 

The following extracts w^ritten in the summer of 1843, 
are here inserted to guide those who may not possess the 
above work. 

"The Falls of Niagara, always majestic and won- 
derful for their power over the imagination, really 
seem to be improving in grandeur. The truth is, 
the lover of nature, the tourist in search of the pictur- 
esque, or the patriot who to these attractions would add 
the enjoyment of those delicious emotions which are ex- 
cited by the actual presence of the scenes of heroic deeds, 
cannot accomplish the true object of a visit to this spot — 
cannot really see the Falls without a sojourn of several 
days on both sides of the mighty cataract. Nothing less 
will enable him to obtain true conceptions of its surpassing 
grandeur and its varied magnificence. The rapids above 
— the falls themselves — the rapids below — the whirlpool — 
the vast chasm and the huge lines of precipice walling in 
the river — all these should be severally seen and studied. 

" On this magnificent frontier, it should also be re- 
membered, are various other localities clustered together 
and belonging to history. Fort Niagara, at the angle 
made by the junction of the river and Lake Ontario, on 
the American side — Fort George, on the Canada side — 
Queenston Heights, also on the Canada shore, made 



WESTERN TCUR. 175 

memorable by the gallantry and steaJiness of a detach- 
ment of the miliiia of this Slate, leJ on to the attack by 
Solomon Van Rensselaer ani cnhanceJ in inierest by the 
fall of Gen, Brociv, the priJe of the British forces then in 
Canada, and whose monument, though shattered by the 
ruffiai Lett, is about to be rebuilt — Luniy's Lane, also 
on the Canada siJe, and not far from the Falls, where, 
on the 25lhof July, 1314, was fought one of the bloodiest 
battles en record — Chippewa, a liitle up stream, where, 
on the 5lh of the same July, an American ibrce, in fair 
fight anJ open field, defeated a British foi'ce creatly su- 
perior la nusnbers and drawn from the veterans of Wel- 
lington, who had conquered the conquerers cf Europe 

all these historical scenes nre among the objects which 
should be included in a visit to the Fails. 

'• The Burning Spring, too, on the Canada side, and 
the Mineral Springs, otherwise known as as the Bel'e 
Vue Fountain, on our side, are not to be oveidooked nor 
undervalued, as helping, each in its own M'ay, to sus- 
tain the interest cf the rival shores; so that whether we 
regard the grandeur cf Nature's works, or the ex- 
citing emotions called forth by the doings of men, it must 
be ccnceJeJ that the Falls of Niagara and the appurte- 
nances thereunto belonging, possess many and varied at- 
tractions. 

" As to hotels, I cn^y vtdsh all who are pent up and 
pining in hot and stifling cities, could Le transferred to 
this gran;lest of all ' watering places,' that tliey might 
breathe the air forever fresh and kepi in healthful motion 
by the action of the mighty cataract, anl that they might 
banquet on the luxuries proviJeJ by Messrs. Whitney & 
Son, of the Cataract House, on the American bank, or 
by C, B, Grifl'en cf the Clifton House, on the Cana- 
da bank. The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Christler, is also 



176 WESTERN TOUR. 

on the Canada side. Besides the above, there are seve- 
ral well kept public houses on the American side of the 
river, all of which are usually thronged with visiters dur- 
ing the summer months." 

The following expressive lines were penned by the late 
Willis Gaylord Clark, June, 1836, immediately after 
having passed tRe great falling sheet of water ; to the 
Termination Rock, being 230 feet behind the Great 
Horse-Shoe Fall, which is approached from the Canada 
side : 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

" Here speaks the voice of God ! Let man be dumb, 
Nor with his vain aspirings hither come ; 
That voice impels these hollow-sounding floods, 
And like a presence fills the distant woods. 
These groaning rocks the Almighty's finger piled, 
For ages here His painted bow has smiled ; 
Marking the changes and the chance of time- 
Eternal— beautirul— serene— sublime ! " 



^ 



te: 



^^'^Mim 











fp^ I'll 



If 

ailL 

Table Rocz FROii below^ on the Canada side. 



I 



WESTERN TOUR. 177 

Lewiston, 7 miles below The Falls, is situated cq 
the east siJe of the river, opposite Queenston and at the 
head of steamboat navigation ; being 7 miles from Lake 
Ontario. It is an incorporated village and contains about 
1,000 inhabitants. Here is a convenient steamboat land- 
ing from which boats ply to various places on Lake On- 
tario ; a commodious horse ferry boat also plies across 
the Niagara river to Queenston, Canada. A branch 
railroad extends 3 miles, to its junction with the Lock- 
port and Niagara Fails Railroad, affording a speedy com- 
munication with Lockport, Niagara Falls and Buffalo. 
The railroad, steamboat and canal route from Buffalo to 
Albany, via Niagara Falls, Lewiston, Oswego, and Sy- 
racuse, is a desirable, cheap and speedy mode of con- 
veyance during the summer months. 

Steamboats leave Lewiston daily for Niagara, 7 miles ; 
Hamilton, 56 miles j Toronto, 44 miles ; Kingston, 200 
miles ; Rochester, 80 miles, and Oswego, 150 miles, con- 
necting with other lines of travel at the above places. 
On the arrival of the Oswego and Toronto boats, rail- 
road cars immediately convey passengers to Buffalo, via 
Niagara Falls, a distance of 30 miles. 

A dai'y line of stages run from opposite Lewiston, 
through Canada, to Detroit, Michigan, a distance of 262 
miles. 

Fort Niagaka, 7 miles below Lewiston, lying on the 
American shore at the mouth of Niagara river, is well 
worthy of a visit in connection with the ruins of Fort 
George, on the Canadian shore, near the village of Ni- 
agara. In 1679, M. De Salle, the explorer of the Mis- 
sissippi, in the service of France, enclosed the spot 
on which the fort was here built in 1725, by pallisades. 
In 1759, it was taken by the British unJer Sir William 
Johnson, in whose hands it remained until 1796, when it 



178 WESTERN TOURo 

was evacuated and given up to the United States. On the 
19lh of December^ 1813, it was again taken by the British 
by surprise; and in March, 1815, again surrendered to 
the Americans. This old fort is as much noted for being 
the theatre of tyranny and crime as for the scenes of 
military exploits. While in the hands of the French, 
there is no doubt of its having been at times used as a 
prison. In its close and impregnable dungeons, where 
light w^as not admitted, for many years, there remained 
clear traces of the ready instruments for execution or for 
murder. During the war of the Revolution it was the 
head-quarters of all that was barbarous, and unrelenting 
and cruel; this being the chief rendezvous of a savage 
horde that carried death and destruction into the remote 
American settlements. Of late years, the abduction of 
William Morgan, who was taken from the jail in Canan- 
daigua, and conveyed more than 100 miles, through a 
populous country and lodged in the magazine at Fort 
Niagara, where he was kept three or four days, and then 
inhumanly drowned — has justly tended to continue its 
reputation for being the scene of tyranny and murder. 

For a description of places in Canada, see " Toub 
THROUGH Canada." 



The City of Buffalo, distant from Albany 284 
miles by nearest route ; 325 miles by railroad, and 363 
miles by the Erie canal, is situated at the head of Niaga- 
ra river, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the 
great chain of western lakes, and is the point where the 
vast trade of these inland seas is concentrated. The 
site of the city is one of much beauty, having a gentle 
southern inclination towards the lake. The harbor, form- 
ed by Buffalo creek, lies nearly east and west across the 
southern part of the city, and is separated from Lake 
Erie by a peninsula, between the creek and the lake. This 



WESTERN TOUR. 179 

harbor is a very secure one, and is of such a capacity 
that, although steamboats, ships and other lake craft, and 
canal boats, to the number, in all, from two to three hun- 
dred, have sometimes assembled there, for the transaction 
of the business of the lakes, yet not one-half part of the 
harbor has ever yet been occupied by the vast business 
of the great and growing west. Facilities, however, 
have been wanting for bringing together the lake and 
canal craft, in the eastern part of the harbor; and to fur- 
nish these, the canal commissioners, under a special law 
of the state, are to extend the Erie canal a mile or more, 
east of its original termination, across the eastern part of 
the city, and parallel to the harbor. By this work, and 
cross cuts therefrom, canal boats will reach every part 
of the harbor with equal facility. The city is divided 
north and south, by Main-street, into two nearly equal 
parts, but by far the greater portion of its inhabitants 
occupy the eastern half of the city. 

Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 180 J. In 
1814 it was all burned by the British, except three build- 
ings. In 1832 it was chartered as a city, and divided into 
five wards ; being governed by a mayor, recorder and 
board of aldermen. Its population in 1840, according to 
the United States census, was 18,213. In 1818 the first 
steamboat was built upon Lake Erie; and the total num. 
ber of sail craft upon these waters, at that time, was 30. 
There are now, 1843, some 50 or 60 steamboats, with 
300 schooners and other sail craft, navigating Erie and 
the upper lakes, and carrying on an.extensive commerce 
from Buffalo westward, twelve hundred miles, through 
this chain of inland seas. 

By means of the Erie canal and the Hudson river, 
Buffalo is now connected with Albany and New-York ; 
while by a chain of railroads now completed, she is as 



ISO WESTERN TOUR. 

direct'}' connectei by Ian I through these, with Albany > 
anJ Boston, Massachusetts. 

The streets in the most compact portions of the city, 
arepavei; an.l the builJings, particularly those for bu- 
siness, are of the most durabie construction. anJ modern 
style. Hei'e are a court-house and jail and county clerl-'s 
office ; 2 public market?, one with the city oifices in the 
second story ; 3 Presbyterian, 2 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 
2 Roman Catholic, 1 Unitarian, 1 Universalist, 3 Ger- 
man Protestant, 1 Bethel, 1 Methodist, and 2 African 
churches; 1 orphan asylum, and 1 theatre. 

The United States Government have constructed a pier 
or mole, extenJing 1.500 feet on the south side of the 
mouth of the creek, between the harbor and the iake. Up- 
on'the outer end of this pier is a light-house, 46 feet high, 
and 20 feet in diameter at its base. It is a beautiful and 
durable structure, erected in 1S32-3. 

The Buffalo and Black Rock Railroad, 3 miles long, 
ani the Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad, 23 miles 
lon2f, both commence at this place, and run north j 
while the Attiat and Buffalo Railroad, extends 3 1 miles 
eastu'-ard, connecting with the Tonawanda Railroad^ 
which terminates at the city of Rochester. 

*' Such have been the facilities atfitr. led by means of ca- 
nals and railroads, in connection with lake navigation, 
that Buffalo now presents a very active and thriving ap- 
pearance. Situated at the foot of one of the great series 
of inland seas, where every particle of produce and mer- 
chanJise must be transhipped, in coming both from the 
Far West and from the sea-board, nothing can prevent 
the rapid growth nn I expand ii g importance of the place. 
Already are her wharves anJ storehouses crowded with 
the products of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michi'jan, and 
Wisconsin, the natural resources of which vast regions 



WESTERN TOUR. 181 

have but just begun to be developed. As the population 
of the northern section of the great valley of the Missis- 
sippi, increases, so must, in due proportion, increase the 
population and wealth of this Queen City of the 
Lakes." 

There are novv' running between Buffalo and Chicago^ 
distant about 1,000 miles, some 15 to 20 steamers of a 
large class ; and about as many more run to Toledo. 
Maumee, and Detroit, stopping at the intermediate ports. 
All these, together with the sailing craft of the lake, and 
the canal boats now thronging the harbor of Buffalo, give 
life and employment to great numbers of people, and 
heavy amounts of capital. 

STEAMBOAT LINES LEAVING BUFFALO. 

From Buffalo to Chicago. — A steamboat leaves 
Buffalo every other morning, during the season of navi- 
gation, for Chicago, Illinois. Distance 1,047 miles- 
Usual fare $12.00. 

Fkom Buffalo to Detroit. — A boat leaves Buffalo 
daily for Detroit, stopping at the intermediate ports. 
Distance 372 miles. Usual fare, $7.00. 

From Buffalo to Toledo and Perrysburg. — A boat 
leaves Buffalo daily for Perrysburg, stopping at the in- 
termediate ports. Distance 319 miles. Usual fare, $7.00. 

A boat runs daily between Buffalo and Barcelona. 
Distance 60 miles. Usual fare $2.00. 

A boat runs daily between Buffalo, Chippewa and 
Schlosser's Landing. Distance 22 miles. Usual fare, 37| 
cents. 

The latter line connects with railroad cars rimning 
from Chippewa to Queenston, and with stages runnins^ 
from Schlosser's Landing to Niagara Falls. 

A British steamer plies between Buffalo and Port Stan- 
ley_, Canada, running twice a week, during the season of 
navigation. 

N 



1^ WESTERN TOUI{, 

STAGES LEAVING BUFFALO. 

Daily Line from Buffalo to Detroit, via Erie, Penn- 
sylvania-, Cleveland and Toledo, Ohio ; distance about 
400 miles. Usual fare, $10.00. 

From Buffalo to Batavia, leaves daily, (Sundays ex- 
cepted.) Distance 38 miles. Usual fare, $1 .00. 

Tri- Weekly Lines from Buffalo to Ellicottville. 
Distance 50 miles. Usual fare, $2.50. 

From Buffalo to Warsaw. Distance 44 miles. Usual 
fare, $1.50. 

A daily line of stages runs from Buffalo to Lockport 
during the suspension of navigation^ distance 30 miles. 
Usual fare, $1.50. 

Distances from Buffalo to Chicago, via Detroit 

and St. Joseph, by steamboat, railroad and stage route. 

From Buffalo to Detroit by steamboat, 372 miles. 

Railroad and Stage Route from Detroit to Chicago. 

Detroit to Dearborn, by railroad,. ... 10 

Dearborn to Wayne, '^' .... 8 18 

Wayne to Ypsilanti, " 12 30 

Ypsilanti to Ann Arbor, " 10 40 

Ann Arbor to Dexter, " 10 50 

Dexter to Sylvan, •' 10 60 

Sylvan to Grass Lake, '' .... 10 70 

Grass Lake to Jackson, " .... 10 80 

Jackson to Barry, 6?/ s^ag-e, 6 85 

Barry to Smithfield, 7 93 

Smithfield to Albion, 6 99 

Albion to Marengo, 7 106 

Marengo to Marshall, 5 111 

Marshall to Battle Creek, 12 123 

Battle Creek to Charleston, 10 133 

Charleston to Galesburs, 4 137 

Galesburg to Corastock, 4 141 

Comstock to Kalamazo, 4 145 

Kaiamazo to Paw Paw, 18 163 

Paw Paw to Hamilton, 12 175 

Hamilton to Keelersville, 4 179 

Keelersville to Bainbridge, 11 190 

Bainbridge to St. Joseph, 10 200 

St Joseph to Chicago, bij steamboat,. 69 269 



'WESTERW TOUR. 



183 



Table of Distances through Lakes Erie, Huron 
AND Michigan, from port to port. 



PLACES. 



Buffalo, 

Dunkirk, 

Erie, Penn., 

Conneaut, 

Ashtabula, 

Grand River, . . ^ . . 

Cleveland, 

Black River, 

Vermilion, 

Huron, 

Sandusky, 

Toledo, 

Monroe, , 

Detroit, 

Fort Gratiot, 

Point au Barks, 

Thousand Bay Islands, 

Presque Isle, 

Mackinac, 

Manitou Islands, 

Milwaukie, 

Racine, 

Southport, 

Chicago, 



p-i 

€0 
45 
45 
I 28 
13 
30 
30 
28 
10 
20 
10 
50 
28 
35 
70 
60 
75 
30 
60 
80 
220 
20 
12 
48 



02 O 



00 
45 
90 
118 
131 
161 
191 
219 
229 
249 
259 
309 
337 
372 
442 
502 
577 
607 
667 
747 
967 
987 
999 
1047 



o i; 



372 
327 
282 
254 
241 
211 
181 
153 
143 
123 
113 
63 
35 
00 
70 
130 
205 
235 
295 
375 
595 
615 
627 
675 






u^ 



1047 

1002 

957 

929 
916 
886 
856 
828 
818 
798 
788 
733 
710 
675 
605 
545 
470 
440 
380 
300 
80 
60 
48 
Oo 



Interesting Excursion. 
During the summer months it is usual for one of the 
many splendid steamers that sail from Buffalo, to make 
a pleasure excursion of some weeks, duration, visiting 
the Upper Lakes, stopping at Detroit, Mackinaw, the 
Manitou Islands, Chicago, Green Bay, the Falls of St. 
Mary's, and other interesting points to be found on the 
borders of these great inland seas. 



184 \VESTEl:W TOUll. 

A TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO CHICAGO. 

This is a deeply interesting excursion, calculated to 
give the traveller a just conception of the great inland 
seas of North America, inasmuch as the route traverses 
Lakes Erie, St. Clair, Huron, and Michigan, a total dis- 
tance of more than a thousand miles. 

If to this is added a trip to the Falls of St. Mary, 
(Sault de St. Marie,) in the outlet of Lake Superior, and 
connecting it with Lake Huron — to the Manitoulin Is- 
lands in the northern quarter of Lake Huron, their very 
name implying scenery fitted to excite sublime emo- 
tions and suggesting the strong sentiment of religious 
awe which characterised the primitive redman, and to 
the island of Mackinac, (pronounced Mackinaw,) and its 
sister islands in the straits of the same name, abounding 
with the finest trout and white fish, and connecting the 
lakes of Michigan and Huron — if these be added to the 
tour, no excursion of equal extent can be found, that 
presents a greater variety of picliaresque and magnificent 
scener3^ 

As this excursion begins on Lake Erie, we begin our 
guidance with a brief description of that noble and most 
useful body of water. 

Lake Erie, washing the shores of four of these LTni- 
ted States — New-York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Michi- 
gan — and spreading between them and a large segment of 
the British province of Canada "West, with the line of 
division as settled by treaty, running through the middle 
of the lake, is 240 miles long by 40 to 60 miles wide- 
Its surface, as ascertained by the engineers of the Erie 
canal, is 555 feet above the Hudson river at Albany, and 
334 feet above Lake Ontario. The greatest depth of the 
lake yet observed, is 270 feet. This is comparatively 
shallow; and the relative depths of the great series of 



WESTERN TOUR. 185 

tak^s may be illustrated by saying that the surplus waters 
poured^ from the vast basins of Superior, Huron, and 
Michigan, flow across the plate of Erie into the deep 
bowl of Ontario. 

Lake Erie is reputed to be the only one of the series 
in which any current is perceptible. The fact, if it is 
one, is usually ascribed to its shallownessj but the vast 
volume of is outlet — the Niagara river — with its strong 
■current, is a much more favorable cause than the small 
depth of its water, which may be far more appropriate- 
ly adduced as the reason why the navigation is obstructed 
by ice much more than either of the other great lakes. 
The New- York shore of Lake Erie extends about 60 
miles in the course of which the lake receives a number of 
streams, the most considerable of which are the Buffalo 
and Cattaraugus creeksj and presents several harbors, 
■the most important of which at present, are Buffalo creek 
and Dunkirk. 

As connected with trade and navigation, this lake is 
far the most important of all the great chain, not only be- 
cause it is bordered by older settlements than any of them 
except Ontario, but still more because, from its position, 
it concentrates the trade of the vast west. 

When we consider the extent not only of this lake, but 
of Huron, nearly 250 miles long, of Michigan, 300 miles 
long., of Superior, the i'argest body of ftesh water on 
the globe, w« may quote with emphasis, the words of an 
English writer: " How little are they aware, in Europe, 
of the extent of commerce upon these inland seas, whose 
coasts are now lined with flourishing town and cities ; 
whose waters are ploughed with magnificent steamboats, 
and hundreds of vessels crowded with merchandise. 
Even the Americans themselves are not fully aware of 
the rising importance of these lakes, as connected with 
the west." 



186 WKSTERW TOUK. 

Dunkirk, 45 miles from Buifalo, is no doubt destined to 
become an important place. Here it is intended to ter- 
minate the New-York and Erie Railroad, "vvhicli will no 
doubt be completed before many j'^ears. The fine harbor 
here is usuallj^ clear of ice much earlier than that of Buf- 
falo. This village was incorporated in 1837, and now 
contains about 1,000 inhabitants, 2 churches, and several 
public houses. The distance from Dunkirk |to New- 
York cit)' is 470 males by this raih-oad, 64 miles of which 
are finished; 177 miles, in detached portions, ready for 
the superstructure, and the remainder surveyed and lo- 
cated. 

Barcelona, 52 miles southwest from Buffalo, is the 
westernmost village in the state of New- York. It is a port 
of entry and contains about 400 inhabitants, 3 taverns, and 
ten or fifteen stores and storehouses. A steamboat runs 
from Buffalo to this place, stopping at the intermediate 
ports. Here, too, is a lighthouse, lighted with inflamma- 
ble gas, which escapes from the bed of the creek, about 
a mile distant, and is carried in pipes to the shore. 

Erie, Pa., 90 miles from Buffalo, is beautifully situa- 
ted on Presque Isle bay, affording one of the best har- 
bors on the lake. It contains about 4,000 inhabitants,- 
a court-house and jail; 8 churches,- 1 banking house; 
several well kept public houses, and a number of stores 
and warehouses. It is a place of much trade and of 
growing importance. 

CoNNEAUT, 28 miles further west, in the northeast 
corner of Ohio, stands on a creek of the same name, 
at its entrance into the lake. In 1840, the town contained 
2,642 inhabitants, 3 churches, and 24 stores. It ex- 
ports large quantities of lumber, ^rain, pork, beef, flour^ 
butter, cheese, &e. 



WESTERN TOUR. 187 

Ashtabula, Ohio, 13 miles from Conneaut, stands oh 
a stream of the same name, near its entrance into the 
lake. 

Faibport, Ohio, stands on the east side of Grand 
river, 161 miles from Buifalo. Its harbor for lake ves- 
sels is good, and it is connected with Painesville by a 
railroad of 3 miles long. 

The City of Cleveland, the emporium of northern 
Ohio, is 191 miles from Buffalo, 211 from Detroit, and 
916 from Chicago. It is a port of entry, and next to 
Cincinnati, is the most important town in^lhe state. It 
stands at the mouth of the Cuyahoga river, and the 
northern termination of the Ohio canal, 307 miles from 
Portsmouth on the Ohio river. Packet boats for passen- 
gers run daily en this canal, reaching Portsmouth iu 
about three and a half days ; where steamboats are taken 
for Cinftinnatti, a further distance of 113 miles. It has aho 
a connection with Pittsburg, by means of the Ohio and 
Pennsylvania canals. 

The harbor of Cleveland is one of the best on Lake 
Erie, and it has a great and growing trade. The popu- 
lation in 1840, was 6,071, and is rapidly increasing. 

Black Ria^er, 2S miles from Cleveland, is a small vil- 
lage with a good harbor, and has considerable trade. 

Vermilion, 10 miles further is a village of some trade, 
situated at the mouth of a river of the same name. 

Huron, 20 miles further, also stands at the mouth of 
a river of the same name, with a good harbor. It con- 
tains about 1,200 inhabitants, 15 stores, andS or 10 ware, 
houses. 

Sandusky, 10 miles further, and 259 miles from Buf- 
falo, is a port of entry, and the capital of Erie county, 
Ohio. It stands on the shore of Sandusky bay, fronting 
the lake. The entire town is based ori a quarry of 



188 "WESTERN TOUR. 

the finest building stone, which has been extensively 
use! in its edifices. During the season of navigation, 
eight or nine months, the wharves are thronged with 
steamboats and other vessels. It contains about 1,500 
inhabitants, 3 splendid churches, 30 stores of different 
kinds, and a ship-yard, for building steamboats and other 
lake craft. 

Toledo, 50 miles from Sandusky, and 309 miles from 
Buflalo, stands on the west bank of Maumee river, near 
its entrance into Maamee bay, at the south end of Lake 
Erie. It contains a population of about 1,500; 40 or 50 
stores, and several extensive manufacturing establish- 
ments. 

Steamboats run direct from Buffalo to this place, and 
Perrysburg, at the head of steamboat navigation on 
the Maumee river, 18 miles from the light-house on the 
lake sliore. 

■•'A railroad is finished from Toledo to Adrian, 33 miles; 
and the Wabash and Erie canal is now completed from 
Lake Erie to La Fayette, a point on the Wabash, to 
Avhich steamboats ascend from the Ohio river. As boats 
cannot, however, ascend to La Fayette, except in com- 
paratively high water, the canal is to be continued down 
the Wabash 81 miles to Terre Haute, where the National 
road crosses the river Much is already done on the ca- 
nal south of La Fayette. 

^'A traveller wishing to go from Buffalo to St. Louis, 
can do so by the above route in six days, after the lake 
and canal shall be in a navigable condition. It will re- 
quire 30 hours to reach Toledo, 83 hours to Terre Haute, 
and 30 hours by stage from thence to St. Louis across the 
beautiful prairies of Southern Illinois, making in all 143 
hours, or six days. We trust that the packet boat com- 
panies on the Wabash and Erie canal will put down the 



WESTERN TOUR. 189 

fare, as the saying is, ' to suite the times/ and all rea- 
isonable efforts will be made to induce a large share of 
the travel tVom Missouri, and the southern country, to 
ISTew-York and Boston, to take this route." 

Monroe, Michigan, 28 miles northwest of Toledo, 
stands on the River Raisin, 2^ miles from its mouth. A 
canal 100 feet wide, and 12 feet deep, extends from the 
city to the lake, through which steamboats and other ves- 
sels continually ply. Monroe contains a population of 
about 2,000 ; a court-house and jail, 2 banks, a United 
States land office, 7 churches, 20 or 30 stores, and several 
Isirge manufacturing establishments. 

Amherstburgh, Can. West, stands at the mouth of 
the Detroit river, about half way between Monroe and 
Detroit. It w^as known during the last war by the name 
of Maiden. On the opposite side of the river is the bat- 
tle ground of Brownstown^ where the Americans, under 
disadvantageous circumstances, and with a slight loss, 
routed the British forces, which lay in ambush, as the 
former were on their way to relieve the fort at French- 
town. 

The City of Detkoit, on Detroit river, 372 miles 
from Buffalo, and 675 miles from Chicago, by steamboat 
route, is unsurpassed for beauty and advantages of lo- 
cality, standing 30 feet above the water, with a fine view 
of the surrounding country. It is admirably situated for 
trade, and is fast rising in commercial importance. Th^ 
navigation of the river and lake is open 8 or 9 months in 
the year, during w^hich time steamboats and other vessels 
are almost hourly arriving and departing for the different 
ports on Lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan. 

Detroit was first settled by the French in 1683 ; and 
now contains a population of about 10,000 inhabitants ; 
a state house of brick^ this being the capital of the state 



190 WESTERN TOUR. 

of Michigan ; a city hall; 10 churches; 4 banking houses; 
a United States land office ; a theatre and museum ; 3 
markets ; a state penitentiary ; a government magazine, 
and a mechanic's hall ; various charitable and other in- 
stitutions, besides 12 public schools. 

The Central Railroad of Michigan, "is now finished 
for 80 miles ; and when completed will extend to St. Jo- 
seph, on Lake Michigan, 194 miles from Detroit. There 
is now a line of public conveyance on this route to Chi- 
cago, running through in about 40 hours; 80 miles being 
by railroad cars ; 120 by stage ; and 69 by steamboat, 
across Lake Michigan. The Detroit and Pontiac Rail- 
road is 25 miles long. 

WiiMDSoa, on the opposite side of the river, in Cana- 
da, is the western termination of the stage route extend- 
ing to Hamilton and Queenston. This is a favorite route 
while navigation is closed. 

Lake St. Clair, 30 miles long and 24 wide, com- 
mences 7 miles above Detroit; it is 90 miles in circum- 
ference and 20 feet deep. Its banks are alluvial, and ele- 
vated 20 feet above the water. Clinton river enters from 
Michigan, and the Thames and other streams from the 
Canada side. From thence the river St. Clair, 40 miles 
long, extends northerly to 

Fort Gratiot, 70 miles from Detroit, and at the 
foot of Lake Huron, on the west side of St. Clair river. 
♦ it was built in 1814, and consists of a stockade, enclos- 
ing a magazine, barracks, and other accommodations for 
a garrison of one battalion. 

Lake Huron, through which runs the boundary be- 
tween the United States and Canada, is about 218 miles 
long and 180 broad, though its irregular form renders it 
difficult to determine this with much precision. It re- 
ceives the waters of Lake Superior through the straits of 



WESTERN TOUR. 191 

St. Mary, and of Lake Michigan, through the straits of 
Michilimackinac, and discharges its over surplus into 
Lake Erie, through the St. Clair and Detroit rivers. On 
the north part of this lake are the Manitoulin Islands, 
the largest of which is 80 miles long. 

Point aux Babquji-s, 130 miles from Detroit, is aS 
the south entrance of Saginaw bay, which extends many 
miles inland, toward the west. 

Thunder Bay, 75 miles further, contains a great 
number of islands, on one of which is a light-house. It 
is sometimes called Thousand Island Bay. 

Presqtje Isle, 30 miles, is situate on the northeast 
point ot the peninsula of Michigan, where the lake in- 
clines towards the west. 

Mackinac, 295 miles from Detroit, and 380 from 
Chicago, is delightfully situated on the southeast ex- 
tremity of an island of the same name in the straits of 
Michilimackinac. It contains a eourt-house and jail, 2 
churches, 10 stores and several public houses. Fori 
Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence, 150 feet imme- 
diately above the village, which, together with the har- 
bor, it commands. This is a!delightful residence during 
warm weather, the air being freshened and cooled by the 
water and by" gentle winds, rendering the place a favorite 
resort for invalids. Here also is a great fishery; over 
3,5000 barrels of trout and white fish being annualb' ex- 
ported ,- and it is the mart of an extensive fur trade, 
being for ages a favorite resort of Indians. A steamboat 
runs from Mackinac to Green Bay, at the head of which, 
in Wisconsin, is an important settlement. After leaving 
Mackinac, and entering Lake Michigan, several islands 
are passed in succession, the largest of which is Beaver 
Island, 



192 WESTERN TOUR. 

The Manitou Islands, SO miles frcm Mackinac, lie 
on the east side of Lake Michigan, opposite the mouth 
of Green Bay, a large and important body of water. 

Lake Michigan, the largest lake which lies wholly 
in the United States, is about 330 miles long and 60 broad. 
Its waters are deep, and it afford? excellent fish, which 
are annually taken in large quantities and constitute an 
important item in the trade of that region. 

Mimvaukie, in Wisconsin, 300 miles from Mackinac, 
is on the west side of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of 
the MiJwaukie river. It contains a court-house and jail, 
a United States land office, 3 churches, and about 3,000 
inhabitants. Steamboats and sail vessels ply between 
this place and Buffalo, and from its rich and extensive 
back country, it is likely to grow rapidly and become a 
place of much importance. 

Racine, 20 miles south of Milwaukie, and at the 
mouth of Root river, contains a court-house and jail, 10 
or 12 stores and about 500 inhabitants. 

SouTHPORT, 12 miles further, on the west side of the 
lake, contains about 500 inhabitants and several stores. 

The City or Chicago, in Illinois, 48 miles still fur> 
ther south, is beautifully situated on level ground, on 
both sides of the river Chicago. It extends along the 
lake shore for a mile. An artificial harbor has been 
formed by the construction of piers on each side of the 
entrance of the river, for some distance into the lake. 
This is a rapidly growing and important place, with 
numerous steamboats and other vessels employed in ac- 
tive and profitable trade with Buffalo, and the various 
intermediate ports on the Upper Lakes. It contains 5 or 
6,000 inhabitants ; the public buildings for Cook county ; 
a United States land office ; 8 churches, and several well 
kept public houses. No place in the Union has probably 



WESTERN TOUR. 193 

exceeded Chicago ia its rapid growth and the increase of 
its trade. It is the central mart of the rich agricultural 
section of northern Illinois, and a part of Wicsonsin. 
The Michigan and Illinois Canal, now constructing 
from this place to the navigable waters of the Illinois 
river, will add much to its importance and give a new 
and powerful impulse to its growth, 

Michigan CitYj Indiana^ standing at the head of 
Lake Michigan, and at the mouth of Trail Creek, was 
laid out in 1835, It now contains about 800 inhabitants, 
and is no doubt destined to become a place of very consi- 
derable importance. 

St. Joseph, Michigan, opposite Chicago, stands at 
the mouth of the St. Joseph river, and is the proposed 
termination of the Central Railroad, running through 
Michigan from Detroit, a distance of about 200 miles. 
A line of steamboats, stages, and railroad cars, now run 
over this route, from Chicago to Detroit, affording a 
choice of conveyances, and great facilities for travel and 
correspondence. 

Green Bay is in the Territory of Wisconsin, Con- 
necting with Lake Michigan at the northwestern bend of 
the latter, by a wide opening, or straits, the Bay stretches 
southward about 100 miles, with a breadth varying from 
15 to 30 miles, and lying nearly parallel with the north 
segment of the lake. Its broad entrance, for some 30 
miles, is traversed by a succession of islands, called, 
from their position, Traverse Islands, The Bay is navi- 
gable by vessels of 200 tons burden, to its southern ex- 
tremity, or head, where it receives the waters of Fox 
river, at the mouth of which is a flourishing town, with 
a population of nearly 2,000, surrounded by a fertile and 
beautiful region, and where the United States have a 
Land Office, The head waters of the Fox river inter- 



i94 WESTERN TOUK, 

lock with those of the Wisconsin, at a very short dis- 
tance apart, and in vjery high freshets boats have often 
passed from one to the other. A short canal v^^ould make 
the connection perfect at all times, aad would thus give 
an unbroken navigation from the great lakes through 
Green Bay, Fox river and the Wisconsin, to the Missis- 
sippi at Prairie du Chien, 300 miles below the Falls 
of St. Anthony, and 600 miles above St. Louis. Green 
Bay contains several islands about midway its length, 
and at its northwestern curve it receives the Menominee 
river, which flows in from the northwest, and forms the 
boundary between the Wisconsin Territory and that por- 
tion of Michigan which lies between it and Lake Su- 
perior. 

Sault de St. Makie, or St. Mary's Falls, is the 
name of the settlement on the American shore of the St. 
Mary's River, about 15 miles below Lake Superior, at 
the rapids, which are three-fourths of a mile long, with 
a descent of some 23 feet. The entire fall of the river, 
which is 60 miles long, from Lake Superior to its en- 
trance into Lake Huron, is about 50 feet. It is contem- 
plated to cut a ship canal round the falls, or sault, (he 
river being navigable in all the rest of its course. Such 
a canal, by enabling steamers and all other lake vessels 
to pass into Lake Superior, and thus opening the naviga- 
tion of that great inland sea, would serve most efficiently 
to promote the settlement of Upper Michigan, and the 
regions bordering on Lake Superior, would enhance the 
value of the national domains, particularly of the cop- 
per and lead districts, and would be the pioneer of incal- 
culable benefits to the whole Union, as well as to a vast 
but secluded country, not yet accommodated with the 
means of constant and permanent intercourse and traffic 



JL. 



WESTERN TOUR. 195 

with the great lake states, and the great markets of the 
sea-board. 

The settlement, or village of St. Mary, ife on the site 
of an old French fort, and is an elevated and pleasant po- 
sition. It contains a court-house, 3 churches, a trading 
house of the American Fur Company and several other 
stores. A post belonging to the United States, called 
Fort Brady, is also established here, and has a garrison 
of United States troops. The population, made up of 
Americans, Frenchmen, Indians and half-breeds, amounts 
usually to about 1,000, and occasionally a much greater 
number, when the Indians and other trappers and hun- 
ters come in with their peltry, for the purposes of trade, 
and to receive their annuities. 

Lake Superior, supposed to be the largest body of 
fresh water in the world, is about 380 miles long and 130 
wide, and about 1,400 miles in circumference. It is sur- 
rounded mostly by a rocky and uneven coast, and con- 
tains many considerable islands, one of the largest of 
which. Isle Royal, is about 100 miles long and 40 miles 
broad. Its waters abound with fish, particularly trout, 
sturgeon, and white-fish, which are caught at all seasons 
and in large quantities. Of these the trout, weighing from 
12 to 50 pounds, and the white fish, weighing often over 
20 pounds, are perhaps the most important. The storms 
on this lake are almost equal to those on the Atlantic — 
its waves run as high, and its navigation is probably more 
dangerous. Its surface is elevated 625 leet above the 
level of the sea, and its mean depth is 900 feet. Its wa- 
ters are remarkably clear and transparent. It receives 
more than thirty rivers, and discharges its surplus into 
Lake Huron, by the straits, or river of St. Mary. The 
boundary lines between the United States and the British 
Possessions pass through the middle of this, as of the 



196 WESTERN TOLR. 

Other great lakedy from its outlet, the St. Mary, most of 
the distance, but t(S>vard the westerly segment of the Isle 
Royal, giving that island to the United States, and then 
inclining southwesterly to the mouth of Pigeon river. 

The Pictured Rocks, on its south shore, toward the 
east end of the lake, are a great curiosity, forming an 
immense perpendicular wall 300 feet high and extending 
about 12 miles, with frequent and vast caverns along 
their base, into which waters roll, especially in storms, 
with a tremendous roar. At one place a considerable 
stream is thrown from them into the lake, by a single 
burst, from the height of 70 feet, and boats can pass 
between it and the rocks ,• at another place four enormous 
piers of rocks support a vast stratum, or entablature oi 
stone, covered with soil, on which stand trees of spruce 
and pine, some of which are 50 or 60 feet high. This is 
called the Doric Rock, or Arch, and it appears like an 
achievement of Art, though it is the work of Nature. 



THE FIIIST VESSEL WHICH NAVIGATED THE 
WESTERN LAKES. 

The followin 2 account, which we extract from Hunt's 
Merchants' Magazine, is translated from an old French 
vvork, printed in 1688, entitled, '* An Account of the 
Discovery of a very great Country situated in America," 
•by Father Hennepin. It will be read with interest : 

It now became necessary for La Sal(p, in furtherance 
of his object, to construct a vessel above the Falls of 
Niagara, sufficiently large to transport the men and goods 
necessary to carry on a profitable trade with the savages 
residing on the western lakes. On the 22d of January, 
1679, they went six miles above the falls to the moulh 
■of a small creek, and there built a dock convenient for 
Che construction of their vessel.* 

On the 26th of January, the keel and other pieces be- 
ing ready, La Salle requested Father Hennepin to drive 
the first bolt, but the modesty of the good father's pro- 
fession prevented. 

During the rigorous winter. La Salle determined to re- 
turn to Fort Frontenac ;t and leaving the dock in charge 
of an Italian named Chevalier Tuti, he started, accom- 
panied by Father Hennepin as far as Lake Ontario ; from 
whence he traversed the dreary forests to Frontenac on 

* There can be bxit little doubt Ihnt the place they selected for 
buildhig their bark, was the mouth of the Cayuga Creek, about 
six miles above the falls, (rovernor Cass s.iys " the vessel was 
launched at Erie;" Schoolcraft, m his journal, says, "near Buf- 
falo;" and the historian Bancroft locates the site at the mouth 
of Tonawanda creek. Hennepin s;iys the mouth of the creek was 
two leiigues above the great falls ; the mouth of the Tonawanda 
IS more than twice that distance, and the Cayuga is the on!|r 
stream that answers to the description. 

I Now Kiiigston, Canada. 

O 



198 NAVIGATION 01* THE 

foot, with only two companions and a dog which drew 
his baggage on a sled, subsisting on nothing but parched 
corn, and even that failed him two days journey from the 
fort. In the mean time the building of the vessel went 
on under the suspicious eyes of the neighboring savages, 
although the most part of them had gone to war beyond 
Lake Erie. One of them, feigning intoxication, attempt^ 
ed the life of the blacksmith, who defended himself suc- 
cessfully with sUfkd hot bar of iron. The timely warning of 
a friendly sqaw averted the burning of their vessel on the 
stocks, which was designed by the savages. The work-' 
men were almost disheartened by frequent alarms, and 
would have abandoned the work had they not been cheered 
by the good father, who represented the great advantage 
their perseverance would afford, and how much their 
success would redound to the glory of God. These and 
other inducements accelerated the work, and the vessel 
wassoonready to be launched, though not entirely finished. 
Chanting Te Deum, and firing three guns, they commit-- 
ted her to the river amid cries of joy, and swung their 
hammocks in security from the wild beasts and still more 
dreaded Indians. 

When the Senecas returned from their expedition tliey 
were greatly astonished at the floating fo?t, "which struck 
terror among all the savages who lived on the great lake* 
and rivers within fifteen hundred miles." Hennepin as' 
cended the river in a bark canoe with one of his com- 
panions as far as Lake Erie. They twice pulled the ca-' 
noe up the rapids, and sounded the lake for the purpose' 
of ascertaining the depth. He reported that with a fa- 
vorable north or northwest wind the vessel could ascend 
to the lake, and then sail without difficulty, over its 
whole extent. Soon after the vessel vras launched in the 
current of Niagara about foar amd a half miles froBfti the 



WESTERN LAKES. 199 

lake. Hennepin left it for Fort Frontenac, and returning 
with La Salle and two other fathers, Gabriel and Zeno- 
be Mambre, anchored in the Niagara the 30th July, 
1679. On the 4th of August, they reached the dock 
where the ship was built, which he calls distant eighteen 
miles from Lake Ontario, and proceeded from thence in 
a bark canoe, to their vessel, which they found at anchor 
three miles from the " beautiful Lake Erie." 

The vessel was of 60 tons burthen, completely rigged, 
and found with all the necessaries, arms, provisions and 
merchandize ; it had seven small pieces of cannon on 
board, two of which were of brass. There was a griffinj 
flying at the jib boom, and an eagle above. There were 
also all the ordinary ornaments and other fixtures which 
usually grace a ship of war. 

They endeavored many times to ascend the current of 
the Niagara into Lake Erie without success, the wind not 
being strong enoiigh. Whilst they were thus detained, 
La Salle employed a few of his men in clearing some 
land on the Canadian shore, opposite the vessel, and in 
sowing some vegetable seeds for the benefit of those who 
might inhabit the place. 

At length the wind being favorable, they lightened the 
vessel by sending most of the crew on shore, and with 
the aid of their sails and ten or a dozen men at the tow- 
lines, ascended the current into Lake Erie. Thus on the 
7th of August, 1679, the first vessel set sail on the un- 
tried waters of Lake Erie. They steered southwest, after 
having chanted their never failing Te Deum, and dis- 
charged their artillery in the presence of a vast number 
of Seneca warriors. It had been reported to our voya- 
gers that Lake Erie was full of breakers and sand banks, 
whic h rendered a safe navigation impossible ; they there- 
fore kept the lead going, sounding from time to time. 



200 NAVIGATION OF THK 

After sailing, without difficulty, through Lake Erie, 
they arrived on the 11th of August at the mouth of the 
Detroit river, sailing up v^hich they arrived at Lake St. 
Clair, to vi^hich they gave the name it bears. After be- 
ing detained several days by contrary v^'inds at the bot- 
tom of the St. Clair river, they at length succeeded in 
entering Lake Huron, on the 23d of August, chanting 
Te Deum through gratitude for a safe navigation thus far. 
Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, they sailed 
with a fresh and favorable wind until evening, when the 
wind suddenly veered, driving them across Saginaw Bay, 
(Sacinaw.) The stormed raged until the 24th, and was 
succeeded by a calm, which continued until next day 
noon, (25th,) when they pursued their course until mid- 
night. As they doubled a point which advanced into the 
lake, they were suddenly struck by a furious wind, which 
forced them to run behind the cape for safety. On the 
26th, the violence of the storm compelled them to send 
down their top-masts and yards, and to stand in, for they 
could find neither anchorage or shelter. 

It was then the stout heart of La Salle failed him, the 
whole crew fell upon their knees to say their prayers and 
prepare for death, except the pilot, whom they could not 
compel to follow their example, and who on the contra- 
ry " did nothing all that time but curse and swear against 
M. La Salle, who had brought him thither to make him 
perish in a nasty lake, and lose the glory he had acquired 
by his long and happy navigation on the ocean." On the 
27th, favored with less adverse winds, they arrived dur- 
ing the night at Michillimackinack and anchored in the 
bay, where they report six fathoms of water and a clay 
bottom. This bay they state is protected on the south- 
west, west and northwest, but open to the south. The 



WESTERN LAKES, 201 

savages were struck dumb with astonishment at the size 
of their vessel, and the noise of their guns. 

Here they regaled themselves on the delicious trout, 
which th€y described as being from 50 to 60 lbs. in weight 
and as affording the savages their principal subsistence. 
On the 2d of September, they left Mackinao, entered 
Lake Michigan, (IlJinois,) and sailed 40 leagues to an 
islani at the mouth of the Bay of Puara, (Green Bay.) 
From this place La Salle determined to send back the 
ship laden with furs to Niagara. The pilot and five men 
embarked in her, and on the 10th she fired a gun and set 
sail on her return with a favorable wind. Nothing more 
was heard from her, and she undoubtedly foundered in 
Lake Huron, with all on board. Her cargo was rich, 
and valued at 60,000 livres. 

Thus ended the first voyage of the first ship that sailed 
over the Western Lakes. What a contrast is presented 
between the silent waves and unbroken forests which wit- 
nessed the course of that adventurous bark, and the busy 
hum of commerce which now rises from the fertile bot- 
toms, and the thousand ships and smoking palaces which 
now furrow the surface of those inland seas ! 



The first vessel bearing the American flag upon Lake 
Erie, was the sloop Detroit, of 70 tons, built in 1796. 

In 1797 the schooner Wilkinson, of Detroit, was built; 
her capacity was 80 tons. 

In 1300 the Good Intent, of 35 tons was built ; she was 
wrecked in 1806. 

In 1799, the government built the " John Adams" and 
"Tracy." 

In 1305, the schooner Nancy was built by the United 
States at Black Rock. 

In 1S06, the " Contractor" was built by Porter, Bar- 
ton & Co. 



292 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 

la 1810, the " Catherine" was built. 

In 1818, the first steamboat, " Walk- in- the- Water," 
was built at Black Rock ■ at which time there were, in 
ail, about thirty sail of vessels on the Upper Lakes. 

In 1824, two new steamboats were built. 

In 1825, three more were added ; from this period to 
1832, four steamboats were built, and the whole number 
of steamboats in 1841, was upwards of fifty, and the 
number of sailing vessels little short of three hundred. 



We copy from the Buffalo Commercial Adverti- 
ser of May 3, 1843, the following : 

STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 

The present month completes a quarter of a century 
since the first steamer was launched upon the western 
lakes. During that period changes of vast magnitude 
have been efl'ected by the application of the mighty agent 
steam. Dense forests which frowned from the margin of 
these great lakes have been felled to give place to thriving 
villages, and the moody aboriginal occupant who gazed 
with wonderment at the approach of the ponderous vehi- 
cle has become extinct, or is known only as a wanderer 
beyond the limits of the Mississippi. Changes like these 
have characterized the introduction of steam upon the 
lakes, and the independent, inquiring spirit which so 
distinctly marks the habits of the people of this country, 
has kept pace with the progress of steam westwardly, 
and developed the fertility and abounding resources of 
the prairies, until they have become the granary of the 
world. 

Of those who early participated in the effort to build 
up this new commerce, but few remain ; still they have 
vivid recollections of the undertaking, attended as it was 
by a heavy outlay and much solicitude for its consumma- 



STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 



203 



tion. To them, if not to these now actively engaged in 
its prosecution, a list of steamers down to the present 
season must be interesting, and we have at no inconside- 
rable time and trouble, been enabled to make up the ta- 
ble below. In arranging it we have endeavored to be 
correct, but may have fallen into mistakes, in consequence 
of the want of official data. Should such be the case, 
those at the west who have records as authority, will 
make corrections and call attention in some suitable man- 
ner, as we ^re desirous to obtain such information. The 
list of boatSj^with place and date of building, together 
with their tonnage, will be found annexed. 

NAME. TONS, CLASS 

Low 



TONS, 

Walk-in-the- Water, . 342 

Superior,.. 300 Low 

Chippewa, 100 Low 

Henry Clay, 348 Low 

Pioneer, 230 High 

Niagara, 180 Low 

William Penn, 275 Low 

Enterprise, 250 High 

Peacock, 120 High 

Newburyport, 75 High 

Thompson, 242 Low 

Ohio, 187 High 

Adelaide, 230 Low 

Gratiot, ....'. 63 High 

Pennsylvania, 395 High 

New-York, 325 High 

Brady, 100 High 

Uncle Sam, 280 Low 

Perseverance, ...... 50 High 

Washington, (1st)... 609 Low 

Michigan, 472 Low 

Daniel Webster, .... 358 Low 

Detroit, 240 High 

Lady of the Lake,. . . 60 High 

Gov. Marcy, 161 Low 

North America, 362 High 

Newberry, . 170 High 

Delaware, 170 High 



WHERE AND WHEN BUILT. 

Black Rock,. . . 1818 

Buffalo, 1822 

" 1824 

Black Rock,. . . 1825 



1829 



" ... 1826 

Erie, " 

Cleveland, . 
Barcelona, . 

Erie, 

Huron, 1830 

L. Sandusky,. . '' 

Chippewa, ... " 

Charleston, ... 1831 

Erie, 1832 

Black Rock,. . . " 

Detroit, " 

Gros Isle, " 

Erie, '' 

Huron, 1833 

Detroit, " 

Black Rock,... " 

Toledo, '' 

Mt. Clemens,,. *' 

Black Rock,. . . '' 

Conneaut,. . 9. . " 

Palmer, " 

HuroDj , *' 



204 



STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 



NAME. TOKS. CLASS. 

Victorj', 77 Low 

Gen. Porter, 342 Low 

Jefferson, = 428 Low 

Com. Perry, 352 High 

Monroe. = 341 Hisfh 

Mazeppa 130 High 

Sandusky, 377 Low 

Minnessetunk, » 250 Low 

Jackson, 50 High 

Jack Downing, 80 High 

Little Western, 60 High 

Kobert Fulton, 308 High 

Columbus,.., 391 High 

Charles To wnsend,. . 312 Low 

United States, 366 High 

Chicago, 166 High 

W. F. P. Taylor, 95 High 

Thames 160 High 

DeWitt Clinton, 493 High 

Julia Palmer, 300 Low 

Little Erie. 149 Low 

Barcelona, 102 Low 

United 37 High 

St. Clair, 250 High 

Don Quixotie, 80 High 

Crockett, 18 High 

Cincinnati, 116 High 

Illinois, 755 Low 

Rochester, 472 High 

Madison, 630 Hisjh 

Cleveland, 530 Low 

Wisconsin, 700 Low 

Erie, 497 Low 

Constellation, 483 Low 

Bunker Hill, 457 High 

Constitution, 443 High 

New England, 416 Low 

Milwaukie, 401 Low 

Anthony VVayne,. . . 390 High 

Macomb, 101 High 

Star, 128 High 

Commerce, 80 High 

Mason, 33 High 

Greet We.stern,. 780 High 



WHERE AND WHEN BCILT, 

Buffalo, 1834 

Black Hock,. .. " 

Erie, " 

Perrysburgh, . . " 

Monroe, " 

Buffalo, " 

Sandusky, *' 

Goderich, " 

Mt. Clemens,.. " 

Sandusky, *' 

Chatham, " 

Clevelani.... 1835 

Huron,.. T^. '* 

Buffalo, " 

Huron, " 

St. Josephs,. . . " 

Silver Creek,.. ** 

Chatham, " 

Huron, 1836 

Buffalo, " 

Detroit " 

DunviUe, " 

Detroit, " 

Sandusky, .... '' 

Toledo, ", 

Brunersburgh, . '* 

Sandusky, " 

Detroit, 1837 

Richmond, .... " 

Erie,...*. *' 

Huron, " 

Conneaut, " 

Erie, " 

Charleston,.... " 

Conneaut, " 

Black Rock,. . . ♦' 

Grand Island,. *' 

Perrysburgh. . . " 

Mt. Clemens,.. " 

Belvidere, '* 

Sandusky, " 

Grand Rapids,. " 

Huron, 1838 



STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 



205 



NAME. TONS. 

Buffalo, 613 

Chesapeake, 412 

Vermilion, 385 

Lexington, 363 

Fairport, . , . , 259 

Red Jacket, 148 

Vance, 75 

James Allen, 258 

Washington (2d) , . . . 3S0 

Dole, 162 

Trowbridge, 52 

Marshall, 51 

Owashenonk, . .. =, — 45 

Patronage, 56 

Gen. Scottj..,. 240 

Chantauque, 161 

Brothers, 150 

Kent, 180 

Huron, 140 

Harrison, (1st) ..... 63 

Missouri, 612 

Harrison, (2d) 326 

Waterloo, 98 

Minos, 400 

Indiana, 534 

Franklin, 231 

Nile, 600 

Union, . .^ 64 

Caroline,' (re-built,) . 46 



CLASS. WHERE AND WHEN TUILT. 

Low Buffalo, 1838 

Low Maumee City,, '* 
High Vermilion, .... *' 

Low Charleston, '' 

High Fairport, " 

Low Grandlsland,. . *' 
High Perrysburgh, . . '' 

Low Chicago, *' 

High Ashtabula, " 

High Chicago, ... '^ 
High Kalamazoo,... '* 
High Perrysburgh, . . '' 
Hish Grand Haven,. " 
High St. Joseph, ... '' 

High Huron, 1839 

Low Buffalo, '* 

High Chatham, ..... '* 

High Chatham...... '' 

High Newport, ...... " 

High Erie, . ' •* 

High Vermilion, 1840 

High Maumee City,. '•' 
Low Black Reck,. . . '* 
Chippewa, .... '^ 

Toledo, 1S4I 

Aigonac, 1842 

Detroit, 1843 

Black Rock,. . . '* 



Low 
Low 
High 
Low 
High 
Low 



Ogdensburgh,. . 1824 
Besides the above list, there are a few small boats of 
which nothing is known other than their names. Amcn» 
these are t'.ie Pantanguishane, Cynthia, Pontiac,and Phe- 
nomenon, making with those above*given, an aggregate of 
27,000 tons, at a total cost of $3,510,000. One hundred 
and thirty dollars a ton being what w^e deem true data^ 
for building and fitting out this description cf vessels. 

In examining the progress of steam as applied in propel- 
ling vessels on the lakes, we are struck with the very 
small number of disasters when compared with other sec. 
tions of the country, especially on the western waters^ 



206 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 

i 

In the whole period of 25 years, there have been but four 
explosions which might be termed serious. It is true 
there are other disasters to record, whose calamitous de- 
tails are too freshly impressed upon the publicmind. The 
following tabular view presents both these classes : 

EXPLOSIONS. LIVES LOST. BURNED. LIVES LOST. 

Peacock, Sept. 1830, 15 Washington, 2d, Je. '38 50 

Adelaide, June. 1830,. . . 3 Erie, August, 1841, ..250 

Erie, August, 1840, 6 Vermilion, Nov. 1842, 5 

Perry, iwuce in 1835,... 6 Caroline, (wilful).... 5 

Total, 30 310 

The incidental disasters, such as collisions, wrecks, &c. 
are as follows: Walk- in- the- Water, wrecked in gale in 
our offing, Nov. 1, 1821, total loss. Washington, (1st) 
wrecked in a gale near Long Point, 1833. She was a 
splendid new boat, cost $60,000, and the first season out 
— totally lost — one m.^n drowned. Delaware, totally lost 
in a gale near Chicago, in 1834. Crockett, totally lost in 
a gale near St. Joseph, 1834. Detroit, ashore near South- 
port, on Lake Michigan, 1836 — total. Adelaide, ashore 
in a gale on Lake Michigan, 1840 — totally lost. Taylor, 
at Michigan City, 1838, totally lost. Don Quixotte, lost 
in a gale on Lake Huron, 1836. Thames, burned by the 
'^ Patriots" at Windsor, in 1838. Webster, burned to 
the water's edge while lying up in our harbor, 11th Jan. 
1835. The Taylor took fire near the mouth of Cattarau- 
gus Creek, in the autumn of 1836, but the flames were 
subdued in time to save the boat. One hand jumped 
overboard and was drowned. Beside the explosions of 
the Perry, she has had two collisions w^th other vessels, 
in one of which a man was killed. The first season the 
Great Western came out, she was burned (Sept. 1st, 
1839) while lying at Detroit. She had been to Chicago, 
and on returning across Lake St. Clair took fire, but the 



STATISTICS OF STEAMERS- 207 

flames were apparently extinguished until reaching De- 
troit, when they burst forth anew and consumed the boat 
almost down to the water's edge. The Cynthia, a Cana- 
dian ferry-boat, was burned near Maiden in Oct. 1838. 
Minnessetunk sunk by collision with the Erie, near De- 
troit. She has been raised, enlarged, and is now known 
as the Goderich. Little Western, burned at Detroit last 
season. Macomb, ashore in a gale, mouth of Detroit ri- 
ver, last fall. Niagara, by collision with some other 
boat, at Huron. Ohio, sunk at Toledo, in 1837. Little 
Erie, lost in the ice last fall near Detroit, total. The 
Sandusky, consumed by fire while lying up in our har- 
bor last February. 

Of the old boats which have gradually gone to decay, 
we note the following: Chippewa, Henry Clay, Enter- 
prise, and Pioneer, in this harborj Peacock and Pennsyl- 
vania at Erie; Marcy and Brady at Detroit; Thompson 
at Huron; Newberry at Maumee city; Perseverance at 
Monroe; Uncle Sam at Charleston, with some of the 
smaller boats whose whereabouts are not distinctly 
known. Many of the larger class of boats, but seldom 
used of late, are laid up in ordinary at the places nam- 
ed: Webster, Townsend, New- York, Star, and Monroe 
at this port; Jefferson at Erie; United States at Cleve- 
land; Michigan at Detroit; Milwaukie at Milwaukie. 
The Porter is now known as the Toronto, in the service 
of the Canadian authorities; the Minos is the armed 
steamer also in the same employ. The Superior was 
long since dismantled and converted into a ship, and is 
the only vessel of that description now on the lakes, the 
Julia Palmer having been converted into a steamer, and 
the Milwaukie lost in the disastrous gale of November 
last, upon Lake Michigan. The Cincinnati, J. Downing, 
Barcelona, and Mazeppa have also been converted into 



208 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 

sail craft. The latter is known as the schooner General 
Scott. The St. Clair was originally known as the Sagi. 
naw, Rhode Island, &c. of only 160 tons. During the 
past winter she was remodeled and enlarged at Detroit, 
and now rates 250 ;tons. The Wisconsin was originally 
490 tons, but now being lengthened sixty feet which will 
add to her tonnage at least enough to meet the figures 
given in the table. The Marshall is now running on 
Lake Ontario, having passed through the Welland canal. 

The Caroline, whose destruction filled so large a por- 
tion of public notice, v^'^as originally known as the Caro- 
lina, and is believed to have been built at Charleston, S. 
C. at a very early date, as she was rebuilt at Ogdens- 
burgh as given in the table. She was very strong built, 
of Norway pine and copper fastened. Before passing 
down the St. Lawrence, she ran a couple of seasons on 
the Hudson, between Albany and Troy, when her guards 
were shipped so as to admit her through the Erie canal. 
The date of her destruction is at Schlosser, Niagara Co. 
N. Y., 2ath December, 1337. 

The number of boats yet remaining of the whole once 
in commission on Lake Erie and the other upper lakes, 
is about sixty, with an aggregate of 17,000 tons. Of 
these, some thirty-five only are used v/hen the consolida- 
tion is in existence. 

Of the whole number of boats put in commission du- 
ring the above period, only ten were built and owned in 
Canada. 

The first steamer known to be upon Lake Michigan 
was the Henry Clay. In August, 1827, an excursion of 
pleasure was made in her to Green Bay, where Governor 
Cass was holding a treaty with the Winnebagoes. After 
the treaty was concluded. Gov. C. and suite returned in 
the Clay. From that period to 1832, some of the boats 



STATISTICS OF STEAMERS 209 

went to Green Bay, but no further. On the breaking 
ouc of the Black Hawk war, several of the larger boats 
were chartered by government, to convey troops to the 
disaffected territory, and Chicago for the first time was 
greeted by the sight of one of those strange visiters. 

The building of the propeller Hercules is the com- 
mencement of a new era in lake navigation, and her own. 
ers predict for that description of vessels a large share of 
the carrying trade, especially upon the Upper Lakes. The 
H. is 275 tons burthen, 137 feet long, 25 feet beam, 8 
feet hold, and put together in the strongest manner. She 
has 14 state-rooms, 6feet square, with sufficient addition- 
al space for the erection of 46 berths more, and from the 
peculiar symmetry of the H. she will doubtless afford 
ample accommodations for families emigrating. Her 
space below for storage is large, having almost the entire 
hull of the vessel appropriated for that purpose. The 
peculiar feature, however, of the Hercules, is her engine 
and its auxiliaries. On examining the machinery, all are 
struck with the infinite compactness of the steam appa= 
ratus, and its perfect simplicity, the whole^weighing but 
fifteen tons. The engine is simple and very small, lies 
close upon the kelson, and fills but a space of six feet 
square. It is one of Ericsson's patent, was made at Au- 
burn and is computed to be of 50 horse power. 

We might here remark that the weight of an engine 
and boilers for one of our largest steamers is estimated at 
from 60 to 70 tons — the dead weight of which a propeller 
escapes carrying. The paddles are made of boiler iron, 
I inch thick, 18 inches broad by 30, and are placed on 
two long wrought iron shafts, protruding from either side 
of the stern post. The diameter of the paddles are 6 
feet 4 inches. From the superb manner in which the 
Hercules is built and fitted out, having cost nearly $20,000 



•210 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 

dollars, it is apparent that the enterprising proprietors 
are determined to give the experiment a full and fair trial. 
Another boat of the same tonnage, for the same owners. 
is now being built at Perrysburgh, and will be out next 
month. The Cleveland propeller was launched on the 
22d ult. and the fourth vessel of the kind is rapidly pro- 
gressing toward completion at Chicago. 

Ten cords of wood, at a cost of $17, will suffice the 
propeller per diemj while one of our largest steamers 
will consume two cords per hour, at a cost of $80 a day. 
Some of the steamers even exceed this calculation by 33 
per cent 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 



The most usual mode of conveyance from Buffalo to 
the Falls of Niagara, and thence into Canada, is by rail- 
road on the American side of Niagara river to the Falls, 
thence to Levviston, where commodious steamers leave 
several times daily for the different ports on Lake Ontario. 

There is also another very desirable mode of convey- 
ance, by steamboat, descending the Niagara river, from 
Buffalo to Chippewa, Canada j thence by railroad, on 
the Canadian shore, passing in full view of the Falls, to 
Queenston, where the British steamboats land and re- 
ceive passengers daily, during the season of navigation* 

As the steamboat leaves Buffalo, on the latter route, 
it affords a fine view of Lake Erie and both shores of the 
river. On the Canada side, the first object of interest is 
the ruins of old Fort Erie, captured by the Americans^ 
July 3, 1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, oppo-^ 
site to the site of a strong fortress which the United States 
government are now erecting, a little north from Buffalo 
toward Black Rock. 

Waterloo, in Canada, 3 miles from Buffalo and op-« 
posite Black Rock, with which it is connected by a steam 
ferry, is handsomely situated on the West side of Niagara 
river, which is here about half a mile wide. 

GraJtd Island, belonging to the Americans, is passed 
to the left in descending the river, and is a large aad 
Valuable tract of fine land, mostly covered with a heavy 
forest, which abounds with white oak of a superior quali= 
ty for ship timber, great quantities of which, within a 
few years, have been sent to market on the sea-board, by 
the Erie canaL 



212 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

Navy Island, belonging to the British, is next passed. 
This island obtained great notoriety in the fall and winter 
of 1837-8, when it w^as occupied by the ^'patriots," as 
they were styled, during the troubles in Canada. The 
steamer Caroline was destroyed on the night of Decem- 
ber 29th, 1837, while lying at Schlosser's Landing, on 
the American shore, having been engaged in ti-ansport- 
ing persons to and from the island, which was soon after 
evacuated. 

Opposite Navy Island, on the Canada side near Chip- 
pewa, is the house in which Capt. Usher resided when 
murdered in 1838. It is supposed he fell by the hands of 
some of the deluded patriots. 

Chippewa, 20 miles below Buffalo, and 2 miles above 
the Falls, is on the west side of Niagara river, at the 
mouth of a creek of the same name, which is navigable 
to Port Robinson, some 8 or 10 miles west ; the latter 
place being on the line of the Welland canal. The vil- 
lage of Chippewa contains a population of about 800 
souls. It has obtained a place in history on account of 
the bloody battle which was fought near it in the war of 
1812, between the United States and Great Britain. The 
battle was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains 
a short distance south of the Chippewa Landing. The 
American forces were commanded by Major Gen. Jacob 
Brown, and the British, by Major General Riall, who, 
after an obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated 
with considerable loss. 

At Chippewa commences a railroad, extending to 
Queenston, a distance of 10 miles. Steamboats continue 
the line of travel from both ends of this road, thus fur- 
nishing an interesting and speedy conveyance between 
Lakes Erie and Ontario. 



TOUR THROUGA CANADA. 213 

On arriving in the vicinity of the Falls of Niagara, 
•on the route from Chippev^a to Queenston, the railroad 
cars stop opposite the Pavilion, a favorite public house 
kept by Mr. Chrystler. 

About half a mile below, near the ferry, is situated 
the Clifton House, a well kept hotel. The site of this 
house was chosen as giving the best view of both the 
American, and Canadian or Horse Shoe Falls, which are 
seen from the pia/./.as and every window in front. 

In addition to the Falls, there are other points of at- 
traction on the Canada side of the river. The collection 
of curiosities at the Museum, and the Camera Obscura, 
which gives an exact and beautiful, though miniature 
image of the falls, are well worthy of a visit. The burn- 
ing spring. 2 miles above the falls, is also much fre- 
quented ; and the rides to the battle grounds in this vi- 
cinity make an exhilarating and very pleasant excursion. 

Drummondsville, one mile west of the Falls, and 
situated on Lundy's Lane, is celebrated as the scene of 
another sanguinary engagement between the American 
and British forces, July 25, 1814. 

The following is a brief, though correct account of the 
engagement. " On the afternoon of the above day^ while 
the American army was on their march from Fo?'t George 
toward Fort Erie, ascending the west bank of the river, 
their rear guard under the immediate command of Gen. 
Scott, were attacked by the advanced guard of the British 
army under Gen. Riall, the British having been reinforced 
after their defeat at Chippevi^a, on the 5th of the same 
month. This brought on a general conflict of the most 
obstinate and deadly character. As soon as attacked, 
Gen. Scott advanced with his division, amounting to 
about 3,000 men, to the open ground facing the heights 
occupied by the main British army, where were planted 

P 



214 TOUR THROUGH CASTADA. 

several heavy pieces of cannon. Between 8 and 9 o'clock 
in the evening, on the arrival of reinforcements to both 
armies, the battle became general and raged for several 
hours, M'ith alternate success on both sides ; each army 
evincing the most determined bravery and resistance. The 
command of the respective forces was now assumed by 
Maj. Gen. Brown, and Lieut. Gen. Drummond, each 
having under his command a well disciplined ariTiy. The 
brave (American) Col. Miller, was ordered to advance 
and seize the artillery of the British, which he effected 
at the point of the bayonet in the most gallant manner. 
Gen. Riall, of the English army was captured, and the 
possession of the battle ground contested until near mid- 
night, when 1,700 men being either killed or wounded, 
the conflicting armies, amounting altogether to about 
6,000 strong, ceased the deadly conflict, and for a time 
the bloody field was left unoccupied, except by the dead 
and wounded. When the British discovered that the 
Americans had encamped one or two miles distant, they 
returned and occupied their former position. Thus ended 
one of the most bloody conflicts that occurred during the 
last war ; and while each party boasted a victory, alto- 
gether too dearly bought, neither was disposed to renew 
the conflict." 

QuEENsroN, situated 8 miles below the Falls, and T 
miles above the entrance of Niagara river into Lake On- 
tario, lies directly opposite the village of Lewiston, with 
which it is connected by a ferry. It contains about 450 
inhabitants, 50 dwelling houses, 1 Episcopal, 1 Scotch 
Presbyterian, and 1 Baptist church, 6 taverns, 4 stores 
and 3 warehouses. This place is also celebrated as be- 
ing the scene of a deadly strife between the American 
and British forces, Oct. 13, 1812. The American troops 
actually engaged in the fight, were commanded by Gen. 



TOUR THROUGH CAKADA. 215 

Solomon Van Rensselaer, and both the troops and their 
commander greatly distinguished themselves for their 
bravery although ultimately overpowered by superior num- 
bers. Tii attempting to regain their own side of the river 
many of the Americans perished, the whole loss in killed^ 
wounded and prisoners amounting to at least 1,000 men. 

Gen. Brock, the British commander was killed in the 
middle of the fight, while leading on his men. A monu- 
ment stands on the heights, near where he fell, erected 
to his memory. It is now very much dilapidated, hav- 
ing beea shattered by gunpowder, April 17, 1840 ; an in- 
famous act said to have been perpetrate'd by a ruffian of 
tlie name of Lett, concerned in the insurrection of 1837. 

The railroad to Chippewa, terminates on the south of 
Queenston village, near the laonument. Passengers are 
taken from the depot in c-arriages to the steamboat land- 
ing, a short distance below, W'here steamboats depart 
s.nd arrive several times daily, during the summer months. 



Stage Route through Canada from Queenston to 
Detboit. 

The distance by th« above route is 260 miles. Usual time^ 
2|days; fare $13.00. Stages leave Queenston, (opposite 
Lewiston,) everyday at 8 o'clock A. M., passing through 
St. Catharines, Hamilton, Brantford, Woodstock, Lon- 
don and Chatham, to Windsor, opposite Detroit. Leav- 
ing Windsor every morning at 8 o'clock, returning by the 
same route. 

By the above arrangement, a direct line is formed be- 
tween Albaay and Chicago, a distance of 925 miles ; 
through in 8 days. 



The village of Niagaba, is advantageously situated on 
the Canada side, at the entrance of the river into Lake On- 
tario, directly opposite Fort Niagara, on the American 



216 TOUR THROUGH CANADA, 

side. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants ; a court-house 
and jail ; 1 Episcopal, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Methodist, and 
1 Roman Catholic church } 10 hotels and taverns, and 20 
stores of different kinds. This is the most noted place 
in Canada West, for building steamboats and other craft 
navigating Lake Ontario. Here is a Dock Yarsl with a 
marine railway and foundery attached, capable of mak. 
ing machinery of the largest description, and giving em- 
ployment to a great number of men. It is owned by the 
" Niagara Dock Company." 

The Race Course at this place is in high repute among 
the sporting gentry ; and the spring and fall races are 
numerously attended. 

Fort Gsorge, situated a short distance south or up- 
stream from the mouth of the river, is now in ruins. 
This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which 
the Americans were victorious, A new fort has been 
erected on the point of land at the mouth of the river, 
directly opposite old Fort Kiiagaraon the American side. 
The new fortification is called Fort Massasauga. 

The whole frontier on the Canada side, from Fort 
George to Fori Erie, opposite Buffalo, was occupied by 
the American army in 1814, when occurred a succession 
of battles of the most determined and brilliant character. 
Here the British regulars were met face to face at the 
point of the bayonet, and vanquished on their own ground. 

The Welland Canal, which unites the waters of 
Lakes Erie and Ontario, is a work of great magnitude. 
It enters Lake Ontario a few miles west of Niagara. 
The entire work is now being enlarged, and though it 
will probably not be completed till 1846, it will be navi- 
gable in 1845, on the enlarged plan. At present there 
are 32 locks ; but when the enlarged work is finished 
there will only be 22, with a lift of from 12^ to 14 feet. 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 217 

The locks on the old canal are made of wood ; the new 
■ones are of granite, made in the best manner. Those at 
each entrance from the lakes are to be 185 feet long and 
45 feet wide ; the other twenty, 150 feet long and 46^ 
feet wide. The length of the canal will be 28 miles. 
The vessels which will pass through the canal are to be 
145 feet long and 26 feet wide, including all projections. 
The schooners will generally be of the burthen of 450 
tons. It is expected that the chief portion of the trade 
will be done by the new fashioned steamers called " pro- 
pellers." i\.t Port Maitland there is to be a graving dock, 
which will be of importance both to the naval and mer- 
cantile interest. 

There are several places of growing importance on the 
line of the Weiland canalj of which Port Maitlanb, 
Port Robinson, and St. Catharine's, are the most 
noted . 

Hamilton, 50 miles west of Niagara, stands on Bur- 
lington Bay, at the head of Lake Ontario, and 42 miles 
from Toronto. It contains 4 or 5,000 inhabitants; a 
court-house and jail, being the seat of justice for the Gore 
district; 6 churches of different denominations; several 
well kept hotels, and a large number of stores. Its busi- 
ness is increasing, and it has one of the largest and most 
secure harbors on Lake Ontario, being formed by Bur- 
lington Bay, which is so much land-locked as to be well 
sheltered. The approach to the bay is through an artifi- 
cial canal across Burlington beach. Steamboats leave 
Hamilton daily for Toronto and Lewiston, and connect 
with other lines of travel. Stages also depart, daily, for 
Windsor, opposite Detroit, and Queenston, 

DuNDAs, near the head of Burlington Bay, 5 miles 
west of Hamilton, is a place of considerable trade. It 
contains about 1.500 inhabitants, and possesses a fine 



218 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

v.-ater pi-ivilege, on which are already erected several ex- 
tensive flouring mills, and other manufacturing establish- 
ments. The Des Jardin Canal, 2 mi\es long and navi- 
gable, connects it with Burlington bay and Lake On- 
tario. 

The City of 1'oronto, the third place in population 
and importance in Canada, is delightfully situated on a 
beautiful bay. formed by a low sandy peninsula called 
Gibraltar Point. It is 180 miles west of Kingston, and 
45 miles east of Hamilton by steamboat route. Toronto 
signifies in the Indian language, a. place of meeting. In 
1793, when surveyed by the elder Bouchette, under the 
orders of Gov. Simcoe, two Massasauga families were 
the only inhabitants it contained, and the harbor was a 
resort for numerous wild fowl. It was incorporated as a 
city in 1834, when it contained 9,254 inhabitants. In 
1842 it had increased to 15,436, and now probably num- 
bers 18.000 inhabitants, having doubled its population in 
ten years. 

Within a few years it has greatly improved in appear- 
ance and in trade ; a large number of elegant buildings 
have been recently erected, and it now presents as neat an 
aspect as any place in Canada. The streets are paved, and 
the city is well lighted with gas. Waterworks are also in 
progress, which Avhen completed will afford every family a 
bountiful supply of pure water, which heretofore has been 
taken from the lake and distributed by cans. The streets 
cross each other at right angles, and King-street, the great 
mart for merchandize, is near a mile long, mostl}'' built 
in a substantial manner with brick stores or dwellings. 
Toronto now contains a Parliament House and Govern- 
ment Offices, mostly unoccupied ; the College of Upper 
Canada, surrounded by spacious grounds ; the Canada 
Company's Land Office; a court-house and jail, city hall 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 219 

and market place, a lunatic asylam, 14 churches of dif« 
ierent denominations; 5 banking houses and several well 
kept hotels, the principal of which are the North Ameri- 
can, facing the hay, and Stone's Hotel in King-streef. 
The public houses generally adopt the English custom of 
giving a lunch at noon and dining late, furnishing a sup- 
per in the evening. The population are decidedly English 
in their appearance and feelings. The prejudice against 
the Americans, or Yankees, is easily perceived and easi- 
ly accounted for, as most of the inhabitants are exceed- 
ingly loyal, have never visited " the States," and look 
upon their neighbors as a set of lawless republicans or 
disorganizers ; forming their opinions from the character 
of the patriots and sympathisers who hover on the fron- 
tier of both countries. 

The Old Garrison as it is called, is situated on the 
lake shore, commanding the entrance to the harbor ; and 
soldiers' barracks are to be seen in different parts of the 
city. Toronto, formerly called Little York, was cap- 
tured by the Americans in 1813, when Gen. Pike the 
American commander, was killed by the explosion of the 
magazine which was fired by the English on their re- 
treat from the fort. 

The steamboats which arrive and depart daily from 
the harbor during the season of navigation, from April 
to December, add much to the business and life of To- 
ronto. A mail stage also leaves daily for Kingston on 
the ^st ; Lake Simcoe on the north, and Hamilton on 
the west, all communicating with other lines of travel to 
different places in Canada. 

THE FOLLOWING ARE THE PKINCIPAL STEAMBOAT LINES 
LEAVING TORONTO. 

A steamboat leaves Toronto for Hamilton, daily, Sun- 
days excepted, during the seasoa of navigation, stopping 



S20 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

at the intermediate ports. Distance 45 miles. Usual 
fare (cabin passage) one dollar. Deck passage, 50 cents, 

A steamer leaves Toronto daily for Niagara and Lew- 
iston. Distance 45 miles. Usual fare $1.50 for cabiit 
passage. 

The mail line of steamers run daily, (Sundays except- 
ed) between Toronto and Kingston, stopping at Port 
Hope and Cobourg. Distance through, 180 miles. Usual 
fare $5.00 for cabin passage, including meals. Deck 
passage $2.00. 

A line of steamboats run between Toronto and Roch- 
ester daily. Distance 100 miles. Usual fare for cabiis 
passage $3, including meals. Deck passage, $1.50. 

The American line of steamboats, running from Lew- 
iston to Ogdensburgh, also touch at Toronto and Kingston. 

N. B. All the above rates of fare are subject to change, 
owing to opposition lines. 

Stage Route from Toronto to Queenston". 

Miles. 

To Etobicoke, 9 

Cooksville, 7 16 

Credit, 4 20 

Trafalgar, i . . 3 23 

Palermo, 7 30 

Nelson, , 5 35 

Hamilton, 13 48 

Stony Creek, 7 55 

Grimsby, 10 65 

Beamsville, 6 71 

St. Catharines, 14 8^ 

Queenston, 15 100 

Stage Route from Toronto to Holland Landing. 

To York Mills, 7 

Thorne Hill 7 14 

Richmond Hill,. 3 17 

New Market, 15 32 

Holland Landing, 4 36 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 221 

A steamer leaves Holland Landing 3 times a week, dur- 
ing the season of navigation, for different landings on 
Lake Simcoe. 

• Royal Mail Route from Toronto to Kingston. 

p Place From From 

rt,ACES. jQ place. Toronto. Kingstoa. 

Toronto, 180 

Port Hope, 65 65 115 

Cobourg 7 72 108 

Fifty Mile Point, 58 130 50 

False Duck's Island,.. . 20 150 30 

Kingston, 30 180 

Stage Route from Toronto to Kingston, 

Usual fare through $10. 

Miles. 

To Post's, 26 

Bowmanville, 17 43 

Hope, 17 60 

Cobourg, 13 73 

Colborne, 16 89 

Bullock's 12 101 

Belleville, 18 119 

Bogarl's, 15 134 

Gordonier's, 16 150 

Kingston, 20 170 

Port Hope, 65 miles east of Toronto is the first steam- 
boat landing on the -way to Kingston. It is a flourishing 
place, containing about 2,500 inhabitants, and is sur- 
rounded by a fine tract of cleared land. Here is a good 
xvater privilege, on which are erected some manufactur- 
ing establishments, 

Cobourg, 7 miles further, is handsomely situated on the 
north side of Lake Ontario, and appears to good advan- 
tage from the water. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants, 
6 churches, the Victoria college, several hotels and ta- 
verns and 20 stores. The town is laid out with great 
symmetry, has fine broad streets, substantial houses of 



222 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

Stone, brick and wood, and all the external symptoms of 
prosperity, having a fine agricultural country behind it 
for many miles. A steamboat runs from this place di- 
rect to the mouth of the Genesee river near Rochester, 
a distance of 80 miles. 

There are several other settlements, of less note, on 
the lake shore betvt^een Toronto and Kingston, but they 
are not usually visited by the large class of steamers. 

Fifty Mile Point, attached to Prince Edward's Dis- 
trict, is so named from being distant 50 miles from Kings- 
ton. 

False Duck's Island, 30 miles from Kingston, lies 
near the entrance to Prince Edward's bay, which is a 
large expanse of water south of the entrance to the bay 
of Quinte. 

Amherst Island is next passed on the right as you 
approach Kingston; then comes in view Gage Island and 
Grand Island,- the latter being the largest of the Thou- 
sand Islands which lie in the St. Lawrence river — all the 
above named islands belong to the English. 

Kingston, 180 miles from Toronto and 212 miles 
southwest from Montreal, is advantageously situated at 
the foot of Lake Ontario, where commences the St. Law- 
rence river. This place stands on the site of old Fort Fron- 
tenac, having been first fortified by the French in 1672. 
Next to Quebec and Halifax it is considered the strongest 
military position in British America. Point Henry, a 
high rocky ridge forming the east side of Navy Bay and 
extending into the lake for about half a mile, is crowned 
by a strong fortification called Fort Henry, built on the 
extremity of the ridge and commanding Kingston and its 
harbor, and indeed all approaches to the city, both by 
land and water. Point Frederick is a narrow peninsula, 
lying between Fort Henry and the city. The extremity 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 223 

of this point is surrounded by a battery, which together 
with the fort, fully protects the chief naval depct, silua- 
led in a deep narrow inlet called Navy Bay. 

The Navy Yard and the FortifLcaUons are well worth 
visiting. They may be seen by procuring an order from 
the commandant of the station. 

The RiDEAu Canal commences at this place, and al- 
though it is likely to be in some degree superseded bjj^the 
canals coustracting around the rapids of the St. Law- 
rence, still it is an 1 will continue to be a Vrork of much 
importance to Canada. It consists of a succession of ar- 
tificial canals, interchanging with natural reaches of wa- 
ter, ani extends from Kingston' to Bytown, on the river 
Ottawa, a distance of little over one hundred miles. It 
is navigated chiefly by small steamboats, which easily pass 
the locks and artificial cuts, and move more expeditiously 
than the usual canal craft. From Bytown to Mon- 
treal the passage on this route is by boats down the Ot- 
tawa, which has been fitted for navigation by a series of 
locks. 

Kingston was chartered as a city in 1S40, and now con- 
tains 9 or 10,000 inhabitants. It has rapidly increased in 
numbers and importance since the completion of the above 
canal, and the more recent location of the seat of govern- 
ment within its limits, which is, however, about being 
removed to Montreal. It contains at present the resi- 
dence of the Governor General, handsomely situated 
about a mile to the west of the city, near the lake shore, 
and where the late Governor General, Sir Charles Bagot, 
died, May 19, 1843. The present Governor General is Sir 
Charles T. Metcalfe, who has the reputation of great en- 
ergy of character, combined w^ith moderation and eminent 
administrative abilities. Here also is the Parliament 
House, first erected for a hospital, in which the Provin- 



TOUR THROUGH Cx\?fADA. 

cial Parliament held its session annually; government 
offices, barracks for soldiers, a large penitentiary build- 
ing, a court-house and jail, a custom-house, and a new 
and splendid town hall and marVet; 7 churches of differ- 
ent denominations; 4 banking houses; 1 marine and two 
fire insurance companies; 20 hotels and taverns, and 
about 150 stores of different kinds. The public houses 
most frequented by travellers, are the British- xYmerican 
Hotel. Larnpton House, and the Royal Exchange. The 
number of steamboats of a large class plying between 
Kingston and other places is about fifteen, besides as ma- 
ny more of a small class, that run through the Eideau 
canal and down the rapids of the St. Lawrence to Mon- 
treal, Steamboats leave Kingston several times daily, 
for the different ports on Lake Ontario and the bay of 
Quinte, giving life and animation to the place during the 
season of navigation. 

Within the city limits, a short distance from the Par- 
liament House, have recently been discovered two valua- 
able Mineral Springs, on the premises of Mr. Morton, 
near the lake. The water was found by boring, one to 
the depth of 145 feet, and the other 85 feet. From the 
analysis of the first, it appears to belong to the same 
class, and nearly of the same component parts, as the 
Cheltenham Spring of England, although not so much 
impregnated with common salt. 

\ TO AN IMPERIAL PINT. 

Cheltenham. Kingston. 
Grains. Grfiins. 

Common Salt, 70.14 45.64 

Chloride of Calcium, 7. 48 35.09 

Chloride of Magnesium, 3.60 15.43 

Sulphate of Soda, 17.55 21.36 

Total grains,..., 98.23 117.52 



TOUR THROUGH CAKADA. 225 

The other spiing is unusally strong, and no doubt is of 
great medical value. Its strength is somewhat variable, 
owing to an admission of common water. It is, however, 
supposed to be much stronger than any other mineral 
water as yet discovered. The follow-ing analysis is by 
Professor Williamson — Sept. 1843. 

ANALYSIS OF THE UPPER SPRING AT MR. MORTON's. 

Specific gravity, •• 1.0432 

In Imperial Pint. 

Carbonate of Lime, 3.2631 

Carbcnate of Magnesia, 11.2653 

Sulphate of Lime, 3-4716 

Chloride of Sodium, 261.3108 

Sulphate of Magnesia,, 4.3092 

Chloride of Calcium, 112.8025 

Chloride of Masnesium, *. 60.8475 

Iodine and Bromine, (Traces.) 

Total grains, 457.2700 

Gases, Carbonic Acid Gas. 

An extensive bath-house has recently been erected by 
the proprietor of the above springs, and other accommo- 
dations for visiters are contemplated. 

From the analysis and increasing celebrity of these 
springs, owing to their medicinal properties, it is by ma- 
ny predicted that Kingston wall become celebrated as a 
place of resort for invalids and others who may wish to 
visit these restorative fountains. Carriages may at all 
times of the day be found in waiting near the principal 
hotels to convey passengers to the springs, which are well 
worthy of a visit by all strangers. 



226 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

Table of distances betwekn Kingston & Montreal. 

p Place From From 

rLACES. to place. Kingston. Momrenl. 

Kingston, 212 

Gananoqui, 20 20 192 

Brockville, 40 60 152 

Mailland, 4 64 148 

Prescott, or Ogdensburgh, . . 8 72 140 

Galop Rapids, 7 79 133 

Matilda, 9 88 124 

Williamsburgh, 7 95 117 

Dickinson's Landing, 15 110 102 

Cornwall, by canal, passing 

the Long Sault Rapids,. . • 12 122 90 

St. Regis, 4 126 86 

Lake St. Francis, 2 128 84 

Lancaster 15 143 69 

Coteaudu Lac, ..;.-'...... 20 163 49 

Cascades, by stage, passing 

the Cedar Rapids, 16 179 33 

La Chine, passing through 

Lake St. Louis '. 24 203 9 

Montreal, by stage, 9 212 

On leaving Kingston to descend the St. Lawrence, you 
enter at once among the remarkable group of the Thou- 
sand Islands, which stretch along the river for more than 
thirty miles. " The main stream of the St. Lawrence," 
says Buckingham " as it flows from the eastern termina- 
tion of Lake Ontario, is 12 or 15 miles wide, from Kings- 
ton to Cape Vincent, across Grand Island; but it is so 
thickly studded with Islands, that it is like passing through 
a vast archipelago, rather than navigating a mighty river. 
Though this extensive range bears the name of the Thou- 
sand Isles, it is said that there are more than 1,500 of 
them. The largest are from 8 to 12 miles in length, and 
from 3 to 5 in breadth; and the smallest of them cover 
perhaps an acre of space. They are for the most part 
rocky islets, sometimes rising in abrupt cliffs from the 
water, and so bold and steep that you may run the boat 



fOUR THROUGH CANADA. 227 

near enough almost to touch the cliffs from the vessel. 
A few only are low and flat; but being nearly all wood- 
ed, they form a perpetual succession of the most roman- 
tically beautiful and picturesque groups that can be con- 
ceived." 

After clearing the Thousand Islands the river contracts 
to about two miles in width, and presents a magnificent 
appearance. The cultivated fields and settlements inter- 
changing with bolder features, along its banks, impart a 
grandeur, as well as a variety and beauty, to the river 
and its shores, which no other stream on the continent 
possesses in an equal degree. 

Gananoqui, 20 miles below Kingston, is usually the 
first landing made by the British steamers in descending 
the river, unless they stop to take in wood at some of the 
islands. 

Wells' Island, one of the largest of the Thousand Is- 
lands attached to the United States, lies a short distance 
below, opposite the village of Alexandria, on the Ame- 
rican shore. This island was the scene of a high-handed 
piece of piracy, in May 1838. The following is a slate- 
ment of the aff"air as narrated by Capt. J. B. Armstrong. 
" The British steamer. Sir Robert Peel, while stopping 
at Wells' Island, for the purpose of taking in wood, was 
boarded at midnight by a set of men, two of whom seized 
the commander of the boat, as he came on deck, by the 
shoulders, while 5, third one presented a musket with fixed 
bayonet to his breast and ordered him to proceed on 
shore, w^hich order he quietly obeyed between his two 
captors. The crew and passengers, several of whom 
were ladies, were disposed of in a similar manner. The 
boat was then robbed of all the most valuable articles, 
including a considerable amount of money, and set on fire. 



228 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

The notorious Bill Johnson was supposed to have been 
the leader, assisted by Canadian patriots. 

Brockville, 60 miles below Kingston, is delightfully 
situated on the northwest side of the St. Lawrence, where 
it is about two miles wide. Here is a convenient steam- 
boat landing, where the American and English passage 
boats usually land on their trips up and down the river. 
It contains about 1600 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, 
4 churches, a court house and jail; and several well kept 
public houses. 

Nearly opposite lies the village of Mobristown, on the 
American shore, 11 miles above Ogdensburgh. It con- 
tains about 250 inhabitants. 40 dwelling houses, 2 church- 
es, 2 taverns, 3 stores, 2 store-houses, and 1 steam grist 
mill. This is a regular landing place for passage boats 
passing up and down the St. Lawrence; and the stage 
road between Utica and Ogdensburg passes through this 
place. 

Maitland, is a small village, 4 miles below Brock- 
ville, on the same side. It contains about 300 inhabi- 
tants, 1 church and 2 public houses. 

Pbescott, 72 miles below Kingston, stands opposite to 
the village of Ogdensburgh, with which it is connected by 
a ferry. Here is located Fort WeUingtoji, a strong and 
important fortress permanently garrisoned by British 
troops. Prescott is a place of considerable trade, con- 
taining 2 or 3,000 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses, 4 
churcheS; 8 hotels and taverns, and a large steam grist 
mill. 

Windmill Point, about one mile below Prescott, is 
noted for having been occupied in November, 1838, by a 
body of Americans under the command of Van Shultz, 
who had embarked in a crusade against the British au- 
thorities in Canada, in behalf of the patriots. The stone 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 229 

\yindmill, near the river, was his stronghold, and valiant- 
ly defended for some time and at the cost of many ]ives, 
when the surviving inmates were all compelled to surren- 
der. This was an unfortunate afiair for all who were 
captured. The leaders suffered an ignominious death on 
the gallows, at Kingston, whither they were conveyed 
for trial, and the others were transported to Van Die- 
man's Land, where many of them still linger, unless in- 
cluded in a decree of amnesty and pardon recently issued 
by the British government. 

Ogdensbitrgh, on the American side of the St. Law- 
rence, is situated at the mouth of the Oswegatchie river. 
It was incorporated in 1817, and now contains about 3,600 
inhabitants, 450 dwelling-houses; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Epis- 
copal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic 
church; 2 banks, 5 public houses, 80 stores and shops of 
different kinds, and a number of mills and other manu- 
facturing establishments. This place is situated at the 
foot of sloop navigation on the St. Lawrence, although 
steamboats of a large class descend to the Long Sault 
Rapids, 40 miles below. A daily line of steamboats 
leave Ogdensburgh, ascending the St. Lawrence, passing 
through Lake Ontario, and touching at Prescott^ Morris- 
town^ BrockviUcy Alexandria, French Creek, Cape Yin- 
cent, jSTiregsf on, Sackett's Harbor, Oswego, Rochester, To- 
ronto, and Lewiston. A steam ferry boat crosses 
the St. Lawrence from Ogdensburgh to Prescott, a dis- 
tance of 1:^ miles. A daily line of stages run from Ogdens- 
burgh to Plattsburgh by the southern route. A line of 
stages also run three times a week from Ogdensburgh to 
Plattsburgh, via Fort Covington, where it intersects a 
stage running to Montreal, a distance of about 80 miles; 
the total distance from Ogdensburgh to Montreal, by the 
above stage route, being 140 miles. 

Q 



230 TOUK THUOUGH CANAOA. 

The Galop Rapids, 7 miles below Ogdensburgh, are 
easily passed by steamboatSj although they prevent the 
navigation of the St. Lawrence by sail vessels. 

Matilda, 9 miles further, is a convenient landing on 
the Canada side of the river. 

Willi AMSBURGH, 7 miles below, is a convenient land- 
ing, where passage boats usually touch ascending and de- 
scending the river. 

Waddington, on the American shore, lies opposite 
Ogden's Island, which is passed to the right, as it is on 
the American side of the line. 

Dickinson's Landing, 110 miles below Kingston, is 
situated at the head of the Long Sault, which is a dan- 
gerous rapid, extending for several miles. The St. Law- 
rence Canal, recently finished, on the Canada shore, ex- 
tends from this place to Cornwall, a distance of about 12 
miles. It is calculated to accommodate steamboats and 
a large class of other vessels. 

Cornwall, 122 miles from Kingston and 90 miles 
above Montreal, is situated on the northwest side of the 
river, at the lower end of the St. Lawrence Canal. 
The town contains about 1,800 inhabitants, 300 dwell- 
ing houses, a court house and jail; 5 churches, 20 
stores, and several hotels. 

St. Regis, 4 miles below, on the American side of the 
river, is situated on the line of the 45th degree of north 
latitude, the St. Lawrence, below this point, being en- 
tirely in Canada. St. Regis is an Indian village, part of 
its inhabitants living in the United States, and part in 
Canada. It contains 4 or 500 inhabitants, 80 dwelling 
houses, 1 Roman Catholic church, 1 tavern and 1 store. 
Here is a convenient steamboat landing, where during 
warm weather may be seen Indian boys, prepared to 
plunge into the water, on having a piece of money thrown 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 231 

overboard — often it is caught by these expert swimmers 
before reaching the bottom. 

Lake St. Francis, which is 30 miles long and from 4 
to 7 miles wide, is an expansion of the St. Lawrence. 

Lancasteb, 16 miles below St. Regis, is a steamboat 
landing on the northwest side of the lake, or river. Ca- 
jr.EDONiA Springs is 30 miles distant from this place, in a 
northerly direction. A new road is about being construct- 
ed to unite the two places. 

At CoTEAu DU Lac, 20 miles further, commences a 
rapid of the same same name, extending about two miles. 
Seven miles below this commences the Cedar Rapid, 
which extends about 3 miles. Then comes the Cascade 
Rapid, which terminates at the head of Lake St. Louis, 
where the Ottawa, by one of its mouths, joins the St. 
Lawrence. 

The grandeur of the scenery in the vicinity of these ra- 
pids cannot be conceived without being witnessed. The 
mighty St. Lawrence is here seen in all its magnificence 
and power, being lashed into a foam for miles by the im- 
petuosity of its current. The Cedars* have hitherto been 
considered the most formidable obstruction to downward 
bound craft, but the new South Channel, first used in 
1843, affords an additional depth t)f water. 

'' Previously to taking the Ontario, (now the Lord Sy- 
denham) down to Montreal from Kingston, Captain Bil- 
liard examined the south channel for some part of the 
way; but though he supposed there was sufficient depth 
of Avater, he was of opinion that it was too rough to be 
navigated with safety; so the Ontario came down by the 

* It was here that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 300 men, on their 
way to attack Canada, then in possession of the French, were 
lost. At Montreal they received the first intelligence of the in- 
vasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. 



232 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

old path. These and other facts had long been known 
to D. L. Macpherson, Esq., of the forwarding house of 
Macpherson, Crane & Co.; and it is to the sagacity, per- 
severance and public spirit of that gentleman, that the 
country owes the knowledge of the existence of the new" 
passage." 

The Beauharnois Canal, now in the course of construc- 
tion, will extend 16 miles, and afford steamboat naviga- 
tion round alj the above rapids. 

From Coteau du Lac passengers now proceed by stage 
to the Cascades, 16 miles; thence by steamboat to La- 
chine, 22 miles, through Lake St. Louis. From the lat- 
ter place, stages usually convey passengers to Montreal, 
a further distance of 9 miles. On the enlargement of the 
Lachine Canal, however, passage boats of the larger 
class will be able to pass directly to Montreal, as do 
now, a small class of steamboats, in descending the St. 
LawTence. In ascending, however, even the latter class 
are obliged, at present, to proceed up the Ottawa river, 
and take the Rideau Canal to Kingston. 

A statement of the canals, finished and in progress in 
Canada, intended to improve the navigation of the St. 
Lawrence, and afford ship navigation from Quebec to the 
Falls of St. Mary are here added. '' The line commences 
with the Lachine Canal, extending from Montreal to 
the village of Lachine, a distance of 8 miles. This 
work is about to be enlarged, and it will form the first 
link of the chain which is to connect the navigation of 
the St. Lawrence with that of the great interior lakes, 
through Avhich runs the boundary between the Unitetl 
States and the British dependencies, and to which, there- 
fore, the people and the trade of both nations have equal 
and free access. 

'' At Lachine you enter an expansion of the St. Law- 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 233 

rence called Lake St. Louis — similar to that of the Tap- 
pan sea in the Hudson river — and have a steamboat navi- 
gation to the Cascades, at the mouth of the Ottawa. At 
this point, vi'here is the village of Beauharnois, com- 
mences the Beauharnois Canal, which is to extend 16 
miles, to a point opposite Coteau du Lac, surmounting 
the obstacles to navigation caused by the several rapids, 
known as the Cascades, the Cedars, and the Coteau du 
Lac, which make, in all, a difference of elevation of about 
sixty feet. 

" At this last point you enter another expansion of the 
St. Lawrence, called Lake St. Francois, which takes you 
to Cornwall, a distance of 40 miles, and on the 45th pa- 
rallel of north latitude. At this point commences the 
St. Lawrence Canal, now finished and extending 12 
miles to Dickinson's Landing, and passing the Long 
Sault rapids, which have a total descent of about 50 feet. 
This canal is a fair sample of the other works. It has 
six locks of solid masonry, constructed in the most dura- 
ble manner, each 200 feet long in the chamber, by 50 feet 
wide, with a depth of 10 feet of water. They are de- 
signed, therefore, to accommodate the largest class of 
Lake Ontario steamers, and most of the ships that navi- 
gate the St. Lawrence from Quebec to Montreal. 

" From Dickinson's Landing to Kingston, steamers of 
a^ large class now ply, though there are two or three ra- 
pids below Ogdensburgh. 

'^ From Kingston the route is by the lake to the point 
of connection with the Welland Canal. This work, 
now being enlarged, is but a continuation and completion 
of this great line of works designed and destined to fur- 
nish a continuous ship navigation throughout the whole 
extent of the valley of the St. Lawrence and the basin of 
the great lakes, from Quebec to the Falls of St. Mary. 



•234 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

When this chain of communication is finished, and this 
great route of travel and traffic is opened and in use, it 
will give to the Canadas an exclusive as well as direct 
communication between the vast and far north-west and 
the Atlantic ocean — a result which, unless counterbal- 
anced by the completion of our own great works, espe- 
cially the Erie Canal Enlargement, will give to the Bri- 
tish navigation and commerce, advantages ot the greatest 
importance, and will operate to the deep and lasting in- 
jury of the State of New-York." 



The City of Montreal, now the first in population and 
commerci^ importance in British America, as well as 
the capital of the United Provinces, is advanlageouslj' 
situated on the southeast side of the Island of the 
same name, with the river St. Lawrence flowing past 
from southwest to northeast, being here about 2 miles 
v/ide, and navigable from this place to the ocean for ships 
of several hundred tons burthen. Immediately above 
commence the Lachine Rapids, through which no vessel 
can ascend the stream. 

The city extends along the river for about two miles. 
there being an inward curve to the wharves, which ex- 
tend nearly the whole distance, aflording great facilities 
to the numerous vessels of difi'erent kinds which visit this 
port during the season of navigation. The settlement 
extends inwards for upwards of a mile, covering an area 
of about one thousand acres. 

On approaching from La Prairie above, or from Que- 
bec below, this place appears to great advantage. The 
towering grandeur of the French Cathedral, the spires of 
other churches, • and the spreading mass of well built 
stores and dwellings, give the traveller a very favorable 
impression of the city he is about to enter — and it is in- 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 235 

creased as he views the line of noble stone wharves, and 
|reads the streets, at present celebrated for their good or- 
der and cleanliness, Montreal being now one of the neat- 
est cities on this continent, though formerly it had a very 
<iifFerent and much less enviable reputation. 

The principal streets run parallel to the river, being 
crossed by others at right angles. Commissioners-street 
and Water-street are next the river, then comes St. Paul's 
street, while Notre Dame-street, (the Broadway of Mon- 
treal,) extends along the summit of a ridge, from which 
the water descends both ways, thus resembling in one 
particular the city of New- York, while its situation and 
appearance from the water remind you of the city of Al- 
bany — increased, however, in picturesque beauty, by the 
hill in the rear, called Mount Royal, which rises about 
one mile from the city to the height of 550 feet, forming 
a prominent object in the picture from every point of 
view. 

The island on which the city stands, is formed by the 
junction of the mouths of the Ottawa with the St. Law- 
rence. It is twenty- eight miles in length, ten miles in its 
greatest breadth, and about seventy miles in circumfer- 
ence. It mostly belongs to the seminary of the St, Sulpi- 
cians, a religious order of Catholics, and yields a large 
revenue. Its fertility is such as to give it the name of the 
*' Garden of Canada," to which it is justly entitled. 

The public buildings in Montreal are rather numerous 
and imposing for a place of its size, now numbering about 
45,000 inhabitants. 

The Roman Catholic Catredral in Notre Dame-street, 
facing the Place D'Armes, is perhaps the most magnificent 
structure of its kind in America, being at once an orna- 
ment to the city, and a towering beacon which can be 
seen for many miles, rising in majestic grandeur above 



236 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

all the other buildings by which it is surrounded. It was 
commenced in 1824, and opened for public worship on 
the 15th of July, 1829, although not entirely completed 
until 1843. This edifice is designed in the pointed Gothic 
style of the middle ages. Its length is 255 feet, and its 
breadth 134 feet; the two front towers being 220 feet in 
height. It can seat 10,000 persons, with comfort, there 
being 1.244 pews. From the summits of the towers, 
which are ascended by a flight of steps inside, the views 
presented are of great extent and surpassing grandeur — 
the city and its suburbs — the majestic St Lawrence, and 
the surrounding country for a wide reach in all direc- 
tions, forming the picture. 

The following just tribute to Montreal, is taken from a 
late number of the Kingston British Whig: 

" Montreal is unquestionably the cleanest city in her 
Majesty's dominions, although atone time it had the very 
contrary reputation. With a population of nearly fifty- 
thousand souls, not a single potatoe peeling, or dirt of any 
kind whatever, can be seen in any of the frequented 
streets — much less a stray pig, or cow, and scarcely a 
dog. The labors of the corporation in this respect have 
been crowned with success, and they deserve more merit 
than I can well describe, not m^erely for the extreme 
cleanliness of the city, but for the good order and perfect 
quiet maincained both day and night. 

"The extreme cheapness of cab and caleche hire in 
Montreal, is a fact that cannot fail to attract the notice 
of a stranger. For an English shilling, you can traverse 
the length of the city and return; and the cab drivers are 
the civiiest I ever m.et with. 

" The noble quay deserves a much longer notice than I 
bestowed upon it in my last. Its length is probably a 
mile, and the beauty and strength of its masonry far ex- 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 237 

ceeds any thing of the kind I have ever seen at home. It 
has no fellow in London, and the celebrated quay at 
Great Yarmouth is far its inferior. Dublin and Liver- 
pool, both noted for fine quays, may have greater preten- 
sions; but, in one respect, that in Montreal has no equal. 
Below the level of the quay, probably twelve feet, there 
are most capacious wharves, at whose sides vessels of 
the largest class can unload with ease and safety, which 
cannot be said either at Dublin or Liverpool. In fact, 
Montreal has no feature which charms the visiter as much 
as the promenade along its edge of the quay." 

For a full description of Montreal, see " Hochelaga 
Depicta," or the History and PresentState of the Island 
and City of Montreal. 

Table of Distances from Montreal to Quebec. 

p Place to From From 

rLACES. place. Montreal. Quebec. 

Montreal, 180 

Varennes, 15 15 165 

Wm.. Henry, 30 45 135 

Lake St. Peter, 8 53 127 

St. Francis, 30 83 97 

Three Rivers, 7 90 90 

St. Anne, 25 115 65 

Richelieu Rapids, 20 135 44 

Cape Sante, 15 150 30 

Cape Rouge, 22 178 8 

Quebec, 8 ISO 

The places in italic are steamboat landings. ' 



238 tour through canada. 

^Excursion to Caledonia Springs and Bytown on 
THE Ottawa River. 

This has become a fashionable excursion during warm 
weather for the affluent citizens of Canada, and is well 
worthy the attention of strangers visiting this section of 
country for health or pleasure. 

The usual conveyance from Montreal, is first by stage 
on a good road, 9 miles, to Lachine. Here the tourist 
embarks in a steamboat, at the mouth ^f the Ottawa 
river, which, although a tributary to the St. Lawrence, 
is a large and important stream. The navigation, how- 
ever, is obstructed by rapids, which are overcome by a 
succession of locks, until you reach Bytown, 132 miles 
by vvater from Montreal, and where commences the Ri- 
deau Canal, terminating at Kingston. 

At St. Anne's, 20 miles above Lachine, the steam- 
boat passes through a lock, 45 feet wide and ISO feet 
long. Here is a succession of rapids in the river, and 
several small islands. The village is situated on the 
southwest end of the Island of Montreal, and is the place 
where the poet Moore, located the scene of his admired 
Canadian Boat Song, a stanza of which we copy : 

" Faintly as tolls the evening chime 
Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time; 
Soon as the woods on shore look dim, 
We'll sing at St. Anne's" our parting hymn; 
Row brothers, row, the stream runs fast, 
The rapids are near and the daylight's past!" 

* The Voyageurs in passing the Eapids of St. Anne, were [or- 
merly obliged to take out a part, if not the whole of their lading, 
owing to the small depth of water here afforded. It is from this 
village that the Canadians consider they take their departure on 
ascending the Ottawa, as it possesses the last church on the Is- 
land of Montreal, which is dedicated to the tutelar Sauit of 
voyageurs. 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 239 

Two mil^es west of St. Anne, commences the Lake of 
the Two Mountains, being an expansion of the Ottawa, 
about 10 miles long and 8 miles wide. Here a branch of 
the river diverges*toward the northeast, forming the west 
boundary of the Island of Montreal. Two hills to the 
north, elevated 400 or 500 feet above the river at the dis- 
tance of a few miles, give the name to this body ' of 
water. 

The Indian Village of the Two Mountains, is situat- 
ed on the north side of the Ottawa, about 30 miles west 
of Lachine. Here reside the remnants of two tribes, the 
Mohawks and Algonquins. The settlements are divided 
by a Roman Catholic Church, standing near the river side. 
On the hill toward the north, are situated three or four 
Chapels The highest summit of the hill or mountain, 
one or two miles distant, is called Calvary, and is visited 
by the Indians and whites on certain religions festivals of 
the Roman Catholic Church. Here the river contracts in 
width to about half a mile, for a distance of one mile ; 
when it again expands, forming the Upper Lake of the 
Two Mountains. About 9 miles further west the river 
again contracts to half a mile in width. 

On the south is passe^ the settlement of Regaud, and 
a mountain of the same name. 

Carillon, 8 miles further, is on the north side of the 
Ottawa. Here are rapids in the river, and the naviga- 
tion by steamboat is continued by means of a lock and 
canal. 

At Point Fortune, opposite Carillon, passengers go- 
ing to the Caledonia Springs usually take a stage for 
L'Original, a distance of 18 miles, along the south 
bank of the Ottawa, which affords some picturesque 
views. 



240 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

. k 

The route now diverges south to Caledonia Springs, a 
further distance of 9 miles. Usual fare through from 
Montreal $4.00. 

Caledonia Springs, are situated in ;the township of 
Caledonia, Ottawa District, Canada West. They are by- 
steamboat and stage route 75 miles from Montreal, 60 miles 
from Bytown, and 30 miles north of the St. Lawrence at 
Lancaster, from which place, by a road nearly completed, 
travellers descending the St. Lawrence, will soon be able to 
diverge to these justly celebrated waters, and with near- 
ly as much convenience as passengers on the Ottawa, can 
now enjoy the same privilege. Both these rivers, for 
grand and interesting scenery are probably not surpassed 
on the American continent. The post village of Cale- 
donia Springs has started into existence and notoriety 
within a few years. In 1837, Mr. Wm. Parker, one of its 
most enterprising proprietors, located himself here, and 
opened a public house for the entertainment of visiters. 
Since then there has been erected three or four more ho- 
tels a Protestant church, a Roman Catholic church, two 
stores, one saw-mill, and several dwellings. Here may 
be found also a bathing house, a billiard room, a nine 
pin alley, a race course, and a circular railway, oifering 
their several modes of recreation. 

The great inducement however, to visit these springs 
is their medicinal efficacy in a wide range of cases— an 
efficacy well established by abulidant experience ; and the 
numbers resorting to them, during the summer months, 
are great and increasing, It has, indeed, become a 
fasionable resort ; and large quantities of the water are 
annually sent abroad to meet the increasing demand. 

A full description of the medicinal properties of these 
fountains, can be found in the ''Caledonia Springs' 
Guide," published in 1841, and distributed gratis to 
visiters. 



TOUR THROUGH CANAD^. 241 

ANALYSES, » 

Of the Medicinal Springs or Caledonia, Canada. 
BY Dr. James R. Chilton, of New-York. 

Gas Spring. 

One quart of water. 

Chloride of Sodium, 89.75 

" Magnesium, 1.63 

" Potassium, .55 

Sulphate of Lime, 1 . 47 

Carbonate of Lime, 2-40 

" Magnesia, 2.50 

" Soda, 1.00 

Iron, .03 

Iodide of Sodium , .35 

Resin, a vegetable extract, .52 

Grains, 100.20 

C Carbonic Acid, 

Gases, < Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 

( Nitrogen, 

White Sulphur Spring. 
One quart of water. 

Chloride of Sodium, 60.44 

" Magnesium, -62 

Sulphate of Lime, -68 

Carbonate of Lime, -82 

'' Magnesia, 3.60 

Iodide, 

Vegetable extract, &c, . -SO 

Grains,- 66.46 



.. $ Carbonic Acid, 3.20 

uases, ^ Sulphuretted Hydrogen,. . 6. 14 



9.34 cubic inches. 



242 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

f 

Saline Spring. 
One quart of water. 

Chloride of Sodium 108.22 

" Magnesium, 2.01 

Sulphate of Lime, 1 .28 

Carbonate of Lime,. 2.00 

" Magnesia, 5.12 

" Soda, 82 

Iodide of Sodium, .38 

Vegetable Extract, .61 

Grains 120.44 



One hundred cubic inches of the Gas from the Gas Spring 
analysed, is as follows : , 

Light Carburetted Hydrogen, 82 . 90 

Nitrogen, , 6 . 00 

Oxygen, 1.56 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 4.00 

Carbonic Acid, 5 . 54 

Cubic inches, 100 . 00 

The Georgian Springs, near Bytown, have also at- 
tracted considerable attention A public house is erected 
over the fountain, and there are bath roonis attached for 
the accommodation of visiters. 

On ascending the Ottawa from L'Original, the beauty 
of the river scenery increases, the whole route from 
Montreal to Kingston being a beautiful succession of na- 
tural and artificial scenery. The distance is about 260 
miles by river and canal route, and is usually performed 
in two days and a half. 

Bytown, 55 miles above L'Original, is situated on the 
southwest side of the Ottawa river, at the junction of 
the Rideau canal, 130 miles northeast of Kingston, by 
canal route, and 120 miles west of Montreal. It contains 
about 5,000 inhabitants, 800 dwelling houses, a court- 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 243 

house and jail, this being the seat of the higher courts for 
the district of Dalhousie ; 1 Episcopal, 1 Presbyterian, 1 
Methodist and 1 Roman Catholic church j several well 
kept hotels and taverns, and a number of stores of dif- 
ferent kinds. In the vicinity there is an extensive flour- 
ing mill, 1 grist-mill, and 3 saw-mills propelled by water 
power. Since the commencement of the Rideau canal in 
1S27, Bytown has sprung into existence, and now pre- 
sents the appearance of a thrifty and business-like place. 
Many of the buildings are constructed of cut stone, in the 
most durable and workmanlike style, and it is altogether 
a desirable place of residence, being surrounded by a 
fertile district, distinguished for its romantic scenery. On 
the Ottawa river, are two very picturesque falls, both in 
the vicinity of this place — the Chaudiere falls, (the 
boiling pot,) are in the immediate neighborhood ; while 
a short distance below the village are the Rideau falls, 
(the curtain,) so called from their resemblance to dra- 
pery. 



Steamboat Routk from Montreal to Quebec. 

On leaving Montreal for Quebec, in one of the many 
splendid steamers which navigate the St. Lawrence, you 
have a fine view of the beautiful fortified island of St. 
Helen, situated mid-stream opposite the city; and as you 
are borne along on the majestic current of the mighty ri- 
ver, its thic.klj^ settled nnxl cultivated shores compel the 
admiring attention of the traveller, by the aspect present- 
ed b}'' their lines of settlements on each side, as of one 
almost continuous street, for the whole distance of 180 
miles from city to city. 

LoNGTjEiL, on the opposite side of the river from Mon- 
treal, is connected with the city by a commodious ferry. 



244 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

and a plank road extends to Chambly on the river Riche- 
lieu. 

"^ The Rapids of St. Mary, are entered immediately be- 
Jow St. Helen's island; and. although not formidable to 
steam vessels, they often retard the ordinary river craft 
for many days, in ascending. 

LoNGTTi; Point and Point aux Trembles, on the Isl- 
and of Montreal, are successively passed on the left, and 
BoucHERViLLE on the opposite shore. 

The Island of St. Theresa, lies in the St. Lawrence, 
a short distance from the northern termination ot the 
island of Montreal, and 15 miles below the city. 

Varennes, on the southeast side of the river, 15 miles 
from Montreal, is st^beautiful place, and was formerly 
much resorted to, for the mineral springs in its vicinity. 
. The massive church, with its two spires, surrounded by a 
cluster of neat dwellings, presents a fine appearance from 
the river. Other objects of interest are seen in the dis- 
tance; the hills back of Montreal are still visible; and 
the Mountain of Rouville, rising grandly in the south- 
east, its summit crowned wdth an immense cross, seen for 
many miles, greatly exalts the character and expression 
of the whole prospect. 

William Henry, or Sorel, 45 miles below Montreal, 
stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, at the 
mouth of the Richelieu river. It is regularly laid out 
with streets crossing each other at right angles. Thi.s 
town was first settled in 1685, and now contains about 
2,000 inhabitants. It is no doubt destined to a rapid in- 
crease, as a canal is now constructed from Chambly to 
St. John's, affording an uninterrupted water communica- 
tion with Lake Champlain. The Fort at this place was 
taken and occupied, in May. 1776, by a party of the Ame- 



TOUR THP^OUGIl CANADA. 245 

rican army, in their retreat from Quebec on the death of 
Montgomery. 

Leaving the mouth of the Richelieu, and proceeding 
down the St. Lawrence, several islands are passed in suc- 
cession, and then you enter 

Lake St. Peter, 50 miles below Montreal. This 
sheet of water, which is but an expansion of the river, 
is about 25 miles long and 12 to 15 miles wide, while the 
average breadth of the river proper, from Montreal to 
Quebec, is about two miles, and the scene which its wa- 
ters present, has some features peculiar enough to be no- 
ticed. In addition to the more customary forms of steam- 
boati, of ships and other sea-going vessels, and of the 
craft usually employed in the navigRlion of large rivers, 
the waters of Ihe St. Lawrence, more than any other 
even on this forest-covered continent, are frequented by 
enormous timber-ralts, commonly borne along on their 
way to market, by the force of the current alone, though 
occasionally aided by spreading a sail, or by huge cars 
called sweeps. These floating islands of timber, with 
huts here and there rising from their low surface, for the 
accommodation of the raft-men, and another singular 
sort of craft with long low hulls, nowhere else known, 
and designed chiefly for the transport of timber of great 
length, contribute the more remarkable and picturesque 
features to the animating spectacle presented by thfe navi- 
gation of this noble river; while, from its high latitude 
and from the characteristic phenomena of northern skies, 
the ordinary as well as the more grotesque features re- 
ferred to, are accompanied by contrasts in the golden 
grandeur of the sunsets and in the varied splendor of the 
Northern Lights, both of which are so frequent and so 
remarkable, that they may be very fairly regarded as ha- 

R 



246 TOUR THROUGH CANAIJA. 

bitual, and from which the scenery of the St. Lawrence 
derives a magnificence and beauty probably unequalled. 

Port St. Francis, 83 miles below Montreal, is the 
next steamboat landing. Here the river again contracts 
to its usual width. 

Three Rivers, half way between Montreal and Que- 
bec, is situated on the north side of the St. Lawrence at 
the mouth of the river St. Maurice.; nearly opposite to 
which and of smaller volume, enters the river Becancour. 
Three Rivers is an old town, having been settled by the 
French in 1618. It now contains about 3,000 inhabitants 
and is a place of considerable trade. 

St. Anne, 25 miles beloAV Three Rivers, stands on the 
north bank of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of a river 
of the same name. 

The Richelieu Rapids, 45 miles above Quebec, ex- 
tend some 8 or 10 miles. The chanifel of the river is 
here very narrow and intricate, huge rocks being visible in 
many places during low water. In order to guide the mari- 
ner safely through these rapids beacon lights are station- 
ed at the more critical points of the passage. 

Cape Sante, 30 miles from Quebec, is on the nortrP 
side of the St. Lawrence, and on the opposite side is a 
settlement called St. Trois. The banks of the river are 
here elevated some 60 or 80 feet above the water, and are 
almost,perpendicu!ar, from which the land extends away 
for many miles, with an almost level surface. 

Capk Rouge, 8 miles above Quebec, is next passed on 
the left, when the citadel of Quebec comes into view, pre- 
senting a sight at once grand and deeply interesting, from 
the historical events with which it is associated. 

The Chaudiere River, on the right, is much visited 
for the sake of its beautiful falls, situated a short distance 
from its entrance into the St. Lawrence. 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 247 

Wolf's Cove, 2 miles above Quebec, on thesameside, 
is an interesting spot to strangers, for bere the lamented 
Wolfe landed with his gallant army, in 1759, and ascend- 
«d to the Plains of Abraham, where he fell a victim to 
his heroic ent-erprise. But he fell not alone. France 
mourned an equal loss in the fall of the brave and gene- 
rous Montcalm. 

As the steamer approaches the wharf, the line of ship- 
ping, extending usually for two or three miles, gives life 
and interest to the scene below — while the towering cita- 
del above, produces emotions of wonder and delight. 

QUEBEC, 
May well be called the great citadel of America; 
and it is Avell worth a journey of 500 miles to see, with 
its surrounding beauties of nature and art. The city, in 
1831, contained 25.916 inhabitants. Now, its population 
4S estimated at 35,000, of which about two thousand are 
soldiers. A great number of commodious buildings adorn 
Quebec — such as the Government House, Hotel Dieu, 
the Ursuline Convent, the Jesuit's Monastery, (now bar- 
tacks for soldiers,) Catholic Cathedrals, Protestant 
Churches, the Exchange, Banks, &c. The city is nomi- 
nally divided into three parts, the Upper and Lower 
Town, and the Suburbs — the last of which is the most 
populous. The streets in the lower town are narrow and 
jll-ventilated, but wider and more airy in the Upper 
Town, where the most wealthy class of citizens reside. 
As a fortress. Quebec may be justly ranked in the first 
class. Words can hardly express the strength of its po- 
sition, without the aid of technical terms. The citadel 
is approached by a zigzag pathway, with thirty- two 
pounders staring you in the face at every turn. When 
inside the citadel, it looks like a world of itself. The of&- 



248 TOUR THROUGH CANADA.. 

cers' barrack is a fine building, overlooking the St. Law- 
rence. The soldiers' quarters are under the ramparts. The 
magazines and warlike implements are immense. A nev/ 
prison is now erecting within the walls. The escape of 
Theller, Dodge and others, in 1833, from this stronghold, 
mortified the officers in command, who caused the senti- 
nels on duty at the time, to be punished. In making their 
escape, it is said they used the rope of the telegraph signal, 
lowered themselves under the walls, and thence fled into 
the city, where they were secreted for some days. 

A monument is erected where Gen. Wolfe is said to 
have died on the Plains of Abraham. A beautiful mo- 
nument is also erected, of recent date, to the memories of 
Wolfe and Montcalm, within the city walls. A nev/ and 
delightful walk is no w* furnished on the spot where for- 
merly stood the Castle of St. Louis, which was destroyed 
by fire in 1834 — it is called Lord Durham's Terrace. 

The following description of the city of Quebec, in its 
present state, is taken from Mr. Buckingham's late inte- 
resting work on Canada, &c.: 

" The situation of Quebec is highly advantageous, in 
a commercial as vrell asa military point of view, and its 
appearance is very imposing, from whatever quarter it is 
first approached. Though at a distance of 350 miles up 
from the sea, the magnificent river, on which it is seated^ 
is three miles in breadth a little below the town, and nar- 
rows in to about a mile in breadth immediately abreast 
of the citadel,- having, in both these parts, sufficient depth 
of water for the largest ships in the world — a rise and 
fall of 20 feet in its tides — and space enough in its capa- 
cious basin, between Cape Diamond on the one hand, and 
the Isle of Orleans on the other, to afford room and an- 
chorage for a thousand sail of vessels at a time, sheltered 
from all winds, and perfectly secure ! A small river, the 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 249 

St. CharleSj has its junction with the St. Lawrence, a 
little to the north of the promontory of Cape Diaraond; 
and affords a favorable spot for ship-building and repairs, 
as well as an excellent winter-harbor for ships lying up 
dismantled. 

" The Citadel of Quebec occupies the highest point of 
Cape Diamond, being elevated 350 feet above the river, 
and presenting almost perpendicular cliffs towards the 
water. The city is built from the water's edge, along 
the foot of these cliffs, round the point of the promontory, 
and ascending upwards from thence to the very borders 
of the Citadel itself. It is divided into the Lower and 
Upper Town, the former including all that is below the 
ramparts, or fortified lines, the latter comprehending all 
that is above and within that barrier. Besides these, 
there is a large Suburb, separated'from Quebec proper, by 
the ramparts, and some open lawn beyond these on the 
west, called the Suburb of St. Rock, on the right bank of 
the river St. Charles, the only portion of the whole that 
is built on level ground. 

" On landing at Quebec, therefore, the traveller has to 
wind his way up through steep, narrow, and tortu- 
ous streets, with still narrower alleys on his right and 
left, till he reaches the fortified line or barrier. Here he 
enters by Prescott Gate, on the right of which, after 
passing through it, he sees the imposing structure of the 
New Parliament House, with its lofty Cupola and fine 
architectural front; and on the left, a double flight of 
mean and straggling wooden steps, leading to one of the 
oldest streets, as an avenue to the Place d'Armes. Going 
across this last, he passes the English and French Cathe- 
drals, tlie Government Offices, and Palace of Justice, on 
his right; and has the site of the old Castle of St Lewis, 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 



^nd the platform overlooking the harbor, on his left- 
Passing by these, and continually ascending for about 
half a mile beyond, he reaches the ramparts and gates on 
the upper side of the city; and going through these, he 
comes to the open lawn in front of the glacis, beyond 
which is the Suburb of St. Roch, on the level ground along 
the southern bank of the St. Charles river. 

'' The plan of the City is as irregular as the greatest 
enemy of symmetry could desire. The steepness of the 
ascent from the river to the plain above, is no doubt one 
cause of this, because it was only by making the ascend- 
ing streets winding and tortuous, that they could be got 
over at all; but besides this, the inequalities in the sur- 
face even of the Upper Town, led to other irregularities 
in the form and direction of the streets; whiltj the large 
space occupied by the old religious establishments, still 
further curtailing the lines in different directions, so cut 
up the area, that there is not a single street in all Quebec, 
which can compare, in length, breadth, or general good 
appearance, to the King Street of Toronto, or the Notre 
Dame of Montreal. The streets of Quebec are, there- 
fore, in general, short, narrow, crooked, steep, wretch- 
edly paved in the centre, still worse provided with side- 
walks, and net lighted with lamps at night. The private 
dwellings are in general destitute of architectural beauty, 
and small and incommodious; some few are of wood, 
none of brick, but the greatest number are of rough- 
hewn stone, with high steep roofs, containing a double 
row of projecting garret windows, very lofty chimnies, 
and the roofs principally covered with sheets of bright 
tin. The shops are also small and mean, and greatly in- 
ferior, in the extent and variety of their contents, lb those 
of Montreal and Toronto; though the prices charged are, 
as we thought, higher here than in either of these. 



TOUR THROUGH CAIVADA. 251 

** The public buildings are scattered over the city with 
80 much irregularity, that their position seems to be as 
much the efi'ect of accident as design. Several of them, 
however, are so prominently placed, and advantageously 
seen that they relieve, in some degree, the general mono- 
tony of the mass of ordinary houses, and are thus far or- 
namental to the town; while the spires of the churches, 
the dome of the Parliament House, and other elevated 
points rising from the general surface, with their tinned 
roofs glittering in the sun, give a liveliness and variety 
to the picture presented by the city, from every point of 
view, which no other place in Canada, and indeed few 
places on the globe present. 

*'The earliest of the public buildings erected in Que- 
bec, was undoubtedly the Castle of St. Lewis, of which 
Champlain laid the foundation, on the 6th of May, 1624. 
The position chosen for it was a most ccmm-anding one; 
on the very edge of an almost perpendicular precipice of 
rock, 200 feet above the river, yet close to its edge; as, 
between the cliff and the stream, there is only just room 
enough for one narrow avenue, called Champlain-street. 
The CEtstle erected here, was regarded as the palace of 
the French Governors, who received in it the fealty and 
homage of the several Sieigneurs holding their lands ac- 
cording to the feudal tenure of the times. Nor is this 
practice discontinued; for, according to Mr. Hawkins, in 
his Picture of Quebiec, the Sovereignty of England hav- 
ing succeeded to that of France, with all its ancient rights 
and privileges, the King's Representative, in the person 
of the English Governor, receives the same homage at 
the present day, as was paid by the Seigneurs of former 
times; this being one of the conditions on which the feu- 
dal tenure is sustained. His words are these — 

* Fealty and homage is rendered at this day (1834) by 



252 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

the Seigneurs to the Governor, as the representative o^ 
the Sovereign, in the following form: — His Excellency 
being in full dress, and seated in a state-chair, surround- 
ed by his staff, and attended by the Attorney-Genernl, 
the Seigneur in an evening dress, and Vt-earing a svv'ord, 
is introduced into his presence by tlie Inspector- General 
of the Royal Domain and Clerk of the Land Roll. Hav- 
ing delivered up his sword, he kneels on one knee before 
the Governor, and placing his right hand between those 
of the Governor, he repeats aloud the ancient oath of fi- 
delity; after which a solemn act is drawn up in a regis- 
ter kept for that purpose, which is signed by the Gover- 
nor and Seigneur, and countersigned by the proper offi- 
cers.' 

" In this castle the French and English Governors re- 
sided till 1809, when it was found necessary to erect a 
temporary new biiilding for their use, while the old one 
underwent repair; and £10,000 were expended for this 
purpose under the administration of Sir James Craig. 
After this it continued to be the seat of government as 
before; and all the proclamations and ordinances issued, 
and all the messages sent to the legislative assemblies by 
the Governor in the King^s name, were dated from the 
Castle of Quebec. It w^as also the scene of ail the pub- 
lic levees and private entertainments of the Governors and 
their families; and w"as therefore the constant resort of 
all the gay and fashionable society of the Province. In 
1834, however, this ancient edifice was entirely destroyed 
by a fire, which broke out on the 23rd of January, in the 
depth of winter, when Lord Aylmer occupied it as his 
official residence; and notwithstanding every exertion 
made to save it, the thermometer being at 22° belovy zero, 
and the fire-engines only capable of being worked by a 
constant supply of warm water, the castle was soon re- 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 253 

duced to ashes. It has never since been rebuilt; but 
Lord Durham, during his short stay here, had the site 
cleared of the ruined heaps that still covered it, and the 
whole area of the iormer edifice levelled, floored with 
wood, and converted into a beautiful platform, with a 
fine iron railing at the edge of the precipice, making it 
one of the most beautiful promenades imaginable — com- 
manding an extensive view of the St. Lawrence down as 
far as the Island of Orleans — the harbor filled with ships 
immediately before it, and the opposite bank of the river, 
with Point Levi, the village of D'Aubigny, and the road 
leading up through one continuous line of cottages to the 
Falls, of the Chaudiere. Nothing could exceed the beauty 
of this, as a marine picture, during the period of ourstay 
here; as atthatmoment there were no less than six ships 
of war assembled for the purpose of holding a court mar- 
tial on Captain Drew, R. N., known as the cutter-out of 
the Caroline steamer from the American shore, at the 
time of the late Canadian rebellion. These ships were 
the Winchester, Admiral Sir Thomas Harvey, the Vestal, 
Cleopatra, and Crocodile frigates, and the Pilot brig. In 
addition to these, there w-ere not less than 300 sail of 
merchant ships anchored in the stream, 163 of Vt'hich ar- 
rived in two successive days, September 14th and 15th, 
and at least 100 m.ore lay along side the quays and wharfs. 
As the weather v/as beautifully fine, and the country still 
verdant all around, the sight of so many ships seen from 
a height of 200 feet above the river, with the fine extent 
of country opposite, thickly dotted with villages and ham- 
lets of the purest white, and the grandeur of the moun- 
tains in the distance fading away into a lighter and lighter 
blue, till scarcely distinguishable from the azure sky of 
the far horizon, was beautiful and magnificent beyond 
expression. 



254 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

'•' The Parliament House comes next, in the order of 
its importance among the public buildings of Quebec. 
The site on which this stands is of even earlier date than 
that of the Castle of St. Lewis j there being good reason 
to believe that it occupies the first spot of ground which 
was cleared by Champlain, for his fort, on founding the 
city, in 1608. Here, too, as at the Castle, the site stands 
on a mass of rock made level by art, and extending to 
the brink of a perpendicular precipice, of about 100 feet 
above the river, the narrowest part of which is com- 
manded by its guns. Along the edge of this precipice, 
beyond the area occupied by the Parliament House, still 
runs the Grand Battery of Quebec, the promenade on 
which, and the view from its platform is scarcely infe- 
rior to that already described on the site of the old Cas- 
tle of St. Lewis. On this spot, originally cleared for a 
fort, the palace of the Bishop was subsequently erected; 
and a portion of the old episcopal residence still continues 
there ; but the greater portion of it is occupied by the 
New Parliament House, begun about ten years ago, and 
not yet completed, though promising, when finished, to 
form one of the most perfect of the public buildings of 
the city. 

" Among the public buildings in the Lower Town, 
there is a Custom-House, a Mercantile Exchange, and a 
Public News Room, neither of which, however, present 
any remarkable features. Indeed, all the lower part of 
the town is destitute of architectural beauty, though 
there is something romantic in the overhanging cliffs of 
the Citadel, the Castle, and the Sault-aux-Matelot, with 
the batteries of cannon, projecting over all these, from 
100 to 350 feet above the heads of the spectators, as they 
lo»k upward towards these several points. 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 255 

" The SauIt-aux-Matelot was the name given to the 
cliff on whose brow the Grand Battery is now placed. 
The alleged origin of the name is this : that it was 
meant to commemorate the extraordinary leap of a dog 
called Matelct, who made a ' sault' from hence to the 
river below, and escaped without hurt. It is probable 
that in early days, the river came up to the very foot of 
the rock, but in process of time, a considerable space has 
been gained from the stream outward from the rock, and 
on this has been built the street called Sault-aux-Mateloty 
(from the back windows of the houses of which you can 
put out your hand and touch the perpendicular cliff be» 
hind them,) as well as the street of St. Paul, and the 
wharfs now used for loading and landing. There is also 
a Trinity House in the Lower Town, managed by the 
Masters and Wardens of the Holy Trinity, and perform- 
ing nearly the same duties as are discharged by the Trin- 
ity Houses of London, Deptford, andKingston-upon-Hull, 
for the regulation of pilots and the navigation of the 
river." 

The churches and religious establishments of Quebec 
are numerous, and well worthy of a visit by strangers. 
The building of the Hotel Lieu, is seated in the lowest 
part of the Upper Town, within the ramparts, between 
Hope Gate and Palace Gate. This is a substantial old 
structure, built of stone, with wings and corridors, hav- 
ing three stories in height, appropriated to the separate 
wards for the male and female sick, and the necessary 
accommodations for the Nuns and their assistants. There 
is a beautiful chapel attached to the Hotel Dieu, in which 
mass is celebrated every morning, and vespers said every 
evening, besides the regular service on Sundays and fes- 
tivals. 

The building occupied by the Ursuline Nuns, stands 
nearly in the middle of the Upper Town of Quebec, not 



256 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

far from the English and French Cathedrals, the court- 
house, and the Place D'Armes, and with its surrounding 
gardens, covers a space of seven acres of ground. With- 
in the v^-alls of this Convent, vras deposited the body of 
the French general Montcalm, his corpse being laid in a 
hollow pit, caused by the bursting of a shell there, dur- 
ing the seige of Quebec. The number of the Ursuline 
Nuns at present in the Convent is about forty, besides the 
Lady Superior, and some few Noviciates. 

The Catholic Seminary, and Cathedral, both founded 
about 1660, are situated near Market Square, in the 
heart of the town. The exterior of the latter is plain, 
but its tower is lofty and well proportioned to the edifice. 
There are four other Catholic churches besides the Ca- 
thedral. 

Besides the English Cathedral, there are also in Que- 
bec, four Chapels of the church of England ; two Scotch 
churches, and two Wesleyan chapels. 



Census or the City and County of Quebec. 

Copied from the Quebec Gazette. May. 1844. 

Population of the city of Quebec, 32,876 

Residue of the county, 12,800 

Total city and county, 45,676 



Of these there are, 

Natives of England, 1,598 

" Ireland, 7,267 

•* Scotland, 981 

" Canadians of French origin, 27,698 

" Canadians of British origin, 7,734 

** Continent of Europe or otherwise, .... 276 

" United States,. 122 

Total, , 45,676 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 257 

The religious connexions are as follows : 

Belonging to the Church of England, 5,494 

'' " '' Scotland, 2,569 

'' " Rome, 36,371 

British Wesleyan Methodists, 851 

Canadian " " 24 

Other Methodists, 2 

Presbyterians not in connection with the church of 

Scotland, 123 

Congregationalists and Independents, 189 

Baptists and Anabaptists, 29 

Lutherans, 3 

Quakers, 8 

Jews, 13 

Total, 45,676 



The following is an English account of the attack on 
Quebec, by Montgomery and Arnold, in 1775, and 1776. 

'' At the period of the American Revolution, it is well 
known, that Canada did not join the revolted Colonies, 
but continued firm in her allegiance to the crown ; and 
hence it became the land of refuge to the many loyalists 
who were driven from the United States by the success 
of their war of Independence. As it was believed, 
however, by the Americans of that day, that an attack 
on Quebec would be successful, and if so, would induce 
all Canada to join their cause, such an attack was plan- 
ned, and its execution committed to two American Ge- 
nerals, Montgomery and Arnold. The British troops 
usually retained in Canada for its defence, had been sent 
on to Boston, so that the Province was almost destitute 
of military force, there being scattered throughout all 
Canada only about 800 men. In this state of things, 
Gen. Montgomery advanced from Lake Champlain on St. 
John's, and after a short resistance took it ; he then 
marched on against Montreal, which being perfectly de- 
fenceless, surrendered to the American arms on the 12th 



"258 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

November, 1775. At the same time, Gen. Arnold was 
known to Montajomery, to be advancing towards Quebec, 
from the New-England States, by way of the Kennebec river 
through Maine, which at this late period of the year was 
a most daring undertaking. After passing thirty-two 
days in the wild forests and swamps, and suffering al- 
most incredible hardships and privations in this hitherto 
untrodden wilderness, Arnold and his followers reached 
the banks of the St. Lawrence, by the Chaudiere river, 
on the 4th of November, in the same year. From thence 
they descended to Point Levi, opposite to Quebec, where 
they arrived on the 9th, crossed over on the night of the 
I3th, and landed 500 men at Wolfe's Cove, without be- 
ing perceived either by the sentries or from the ships of 
war. 

" On the 1st of December, this force was joined by a 
much larger one under Gen. Montgomery, from Montreal. 
By these two, the city was invested, and several bom- 
bardments of it made with shot and shells, but without 
producing much effect A night attack was at length de- 
termined on b)'^ Monigomery, on the southern, and Ar- 
nold on the northern side of the Lower Town. Both at- 
tacks were made with great courage and impetuosity, 
but both failed. In the former. Gen. Montgomery and 
nearly all his personal staff were killed ; in the latter, 
Gen. Arnold was wounded, and with most of his follow- 
ers taken prisoners. The loss of the Americans in these 
attacks was upwards of ICO killed and wounded, and of 
the British, only one naval officer killed, and seventeen 
men killed and wounded. The Americans did not, how- 
ever, give up the attempt to reduce Quebec ; as, during 
all the winter following, they continued to receive re-in- 
forcements, and to invest the town ; and in the spring of 
the ensuing year, May 1776, they renewed their attack 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 2&9 

on the Citadel. Gen. Carleton, the English commander 
of the garrison, having received an important accession 
to his force, by the arrival of a small squadron under 
the command of Sir Charles Douglas, bringing to his aid, 
provisions, ammunition and men, was enabled to baffle 
every attempt made en the city, and ultimately to make 
a sally on the enemy, v^^hen they retreated, and abandoned 
their post. 

" This was the last attack made on Quebec by any 
foreign foe, and as since that period the Citadel has been 
gradually strengthened and improved, under every suc- 
cessive Governor of the Province, it is now in a condi- 
tion to resist ten times the force ever yet brought against 
it, and could not, so long as it contained supplies of pro- 
visions, and an adequate number of brave and faithful 
men, be conquered by any force likely to be brought 
against it from this continent." 



EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF QUEBEC. 

The places of resort well worthy of a visit in the vi- 
cinity of Quebec, are numerous and exceedingly interest* 
ing. The roads are mostly good, and the obliging French 
drivers are reasonable in their charges. 

The objects most attractive to Tourists, are the Falls 
of Montmorenci. 9 miles northeast j the Falls of the 
Chaudiere, 12 miles southwest; the Lake St. Charles, 
16 miles northwest, and the Indian village of Lorette, 
on the road to the Lake, about 8 miles distant. The 
drive from Quebec to Cape Rouge, 8 miles along the 
bank of the river, passing over the Plains of Abraham, 
by the way of the St. Lewis road, is also a most delight- 
ful one. 



269 tour through canada. 

Falls of Montmokenci. 
In going to the Falls of Montmorenci, which should be 
visited by every lover of picturesque natural scenery, you 
pass through the suburbs of Quebec, mostly inhabited by 
French Canaidians, and cross the river St. Charles, near 
its mouth, by a vv^ooden toll bridge. Here are situated 
on the road side several pretty country residences, on the 
route to Beauport, which is a long scattered village about 
half-way between Quebec and Montmorenci, although 
for most of the distance there are dwellings so contiguous 
as to appear like one continued settleii-ient. At Beauport 
there is a Roman Catholic church, v/ith three spires ; and 
a little further north may be seen a neat monument and 
cross near the road, where are frequently found per- 
sons kneeling at their devotions. 

On reaching the Falls of Montmorenci, many are disap- 
pointed at the small volume of water, after seeing the 
mighty cataract of Niagara, yet these falls possess a 
grandeur in miniature, which it is difficult to find excel- 
led. The river Montmorenci comes from the northwest 
in a stream about sixty yards wide, and it is not until it 
almost reaches the very edge of the St. Lawrence, which 
it enters at right angles with its course, that the water 
descends over a cliff, the stream literally falling into the 
St. Lawrence below. The perpendicular height of the 
fall is about 250 feet. 

There are extensive saw-mills on the south bank of the 
river below the falls which are propelled by water power 
taken from the stream above, and conveyed for about 
half a mile in a race way. These mills have, upwards 
of a hundred saws in motion at a time, and are said to be 
capable of completing an entire cargo of planks in a sin- 
gle day ! In winter the spray arising from the fails is 
congealed, and often presents a conical mass of ice 100 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 261 

feet and upwards in height. It was on the high grounds 
north of the falls, that Gen. Wolfe met his first repulse, 
when he attacked the French, a short time before his 
triumph on the plains of Abraham. He was here driven 
back, and compelled to re- embark, with the loss of 700 
engaged in the assault. 

On returning to Quebec there is afforded a splendid 
view of the city and Citadel — the St. Lawrence, and 
the opposite shore above and below Point Levi — the 
beautiful Island of Orleans, opposite the falls, and the 
rich valley of the St. Charles. 

Chatjdiere Falls. 
The excursion to the Falls of the Chaudiere, on the 
opposite side of the St. Lawrence river, about 12 miles 
distant from the city in a southerly direction, is one of 
much interest. The perpendicular fall of the cascade is 
a little more than a hundred feet, but the mass of waters 
is so romantically broken by projecting rocks, as to pro- 
duce a turbulence and fury in its descent which is wild 
and picturesque in the highest degree. 

Excursion to Cape Rouge. 
On this excursion you leave the city by the St. Lewis 
Gate, and cross the Plains of Abraham, to the right of 
the spot where Wolfe fell. A mile from the gate is the 
, Race Course, which is thronged during the Spring and Fall 
i-aces ; and a mile further a road branching to the left, 
leads to Wolfe^s Cove, celebrated as the place where he 
landed with his army previous to the capture of Quebec, 
but now occupied by an extensive ship-yard and lumber- 
yard. The road beyond runs for some distance through 
a fine grove, with avenues leading to various pleasant 
country residences over-looking the river, of which j'^ou 
catch as you pass along occasional glimpses, together 



262 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

with the opposite shore in the neighborhood of the Chan- 
diere Falls. 

Returning by the St. Foi road and facing toward the 
city, the prospect is far wider and more magnificent. 
Below and to the left stretches the line cultivated valley 
of the St. Charles, bounded on the northwest by a pic- 
turesque range of mountains, the settlements reaching to 
their very base, with villages and church spires scattered 
over the iiitervening region j in another direction appear 
the Falls of the Montmorenci and the Isle of Orleans, 
and in front spreads the harbor of Quebec, with the bold 
clifi's of Cape Diamond and Point Levi, rising perpendi- 
/ cularly on each side, the former being crowned with im- 
pregnable bulwarks. 



TFIE ST. LAWRENCE AND SAGUENAY RIVERS. 

As a trip down the St. Lawrence to the river Sague- 
nay, has within the last year or two, become a fashiona- 
ble and exceedingly interesting steamboat excursion from 
Quebec, we subjoin an account of such a trip, made on 
board the steamer North America, August, 1843. 

As the steamboat left the wharf, she took a graceful 
turn up stream, passing the Illustrious, a 74 gun ship, 
and the government steamer Unicorn, and then descend- 
ing run close under Point Levi, affording a fine view of 
the city and Citadel of Quebec. The beautiful line of 
settlements below the city on the same side of the river, 
next attract attention, the view in the distance being 
bounded by hills, apparently elevated 1,500 to 2.000 feet 
above the waters of the St. Lawrence. 

The romantic Falls of Montmorenci, 7 miles be- 
low Quebec, are seen to great advantage from the St- 
Lawrence, plunging over an almost perpendicular preci- 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 263 

'of 240 feet directly into this great river. Immediately 
below, on the bank of the St. Lawrence, was fought a 
severe battle between the English and French armies, 
^ short lime previous to the capture of Quebec by Gen. 
Wolfe, in 1759, in which the British were repulsed with 
'Considerable loss. 

The Island of Orleans, is next passed en the left, 
descending the river through the principal ship channel. 
This is a fertile tract, 21 miles long by 6 or 7 wide, and 
in part covered with a beautiful growth of forest. It 
rises from 50 to 100 feet above the water, and the stream 
of the St. Lawrence being here divided, the aspect of the 
-shores at once reminds yoii of the scenery of the Hudson 
river above the Highlands. 

St. Patrick's Hole, 11 miles below Quebec, on the 
Orleans shore, affords a fine anchorage for vessels of the 
largest size. It v/as here, some 20 years ago. that the 
immense timber ship was built, supposed to be the largest 
vessel, by far, that ever crossed the Atlantic. 

The Parish of St. Laurent, 14 miles below Quebec, 
is handsomely situated on the southeast side of the island, 
which is settled exclusively by French Canadians, mostly 
cngaged'in cultivating the soil. The dwellings have a 
remarkably neat look, being one story high with both 
roof and sides painted white. 

The southeast shore of the St. Lawrence, for many miles 
belov/ Point Levi, presents a succession of villages and 
hamlets, consisting each of a cluster of houses with a 
church standing in the midst, and with its aspect of guar- 
dianship and guidance to the families dwelling around, 
imparting to the landscape a moral expression, which 
greatly enhances its picturesque beauty. 

The vessels usually seen on this part of the St. Law- 
rence, are of the larger class of merchant ships. The 



264 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

arrivals at the port of Quebec average some 1 ,200 to 
1,400 annually, mostly from Great Britain, and besides 
other colonial produce, they car&y back immense quanti- 
ties of timber and lumber. 

Madam Islan^ 26 miles from Quebec, is one of se- 
veral small islan(}s lying below Orleans. The river here 
widens to 10 miles, vi^hich gradually increases all the 
vi-ay to its mouth ; and for most of the distance there are 
two ship channels, called the north and south channels, 
the latter being the best and most navigated. 

Cape Tourment, 30 miles below Quebec, is a bold 
promontory on the northwest side of the river rising to 
the height of about 2,000 feet, and seen at a great dis- 
tance. 

Grosse Island, opposite Cape Tourment, is the 
Quarantine Station for vessels ascending the river, and 
it has a hospital, a Roman Catholic Chapel, and other 
buildings usually connected with such an establishment. 

St. Thomas, 32 miles from Quebec, on the southeast 
shore, is situated at the mouth of a stream called South 
river. The shore of the St. Lawrence is lined with a 
succession of dwellings for many miles below, with high 
grounds rising in the distance, beyond which may 
occasionally be seen the hills formerly claimed by the 
Americans, as the boundary between the state of Maine 
and Canada. 

Crane Island, 38 miles below Quebec, is fertile and 
settled. Its north end is adorned with the delightful resi- 
dence of the Seignuer. 

Goose Island, 45 miles from Quebec, is owned by the 
Nuns, and is cultivated as a farm, by tenants. 

The Pillars, 55 miles below Quebec, is the name 
given to several small rocky islets, on one of which 
stands a light-house. Here the scenery is peculiarly 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 265 

grand and interesting. The vast estuary of the river be- 
low looks indeed like an opening to the ocean. The shores 
for some 10 miles onward are studded with shining 
residences, while the hills in the distance, on both sides, 
resemble very much the scenery bordering the widest part 
of Lake Champlain. 

Sixty miles below Quebec, is the remarkable channel 
called the Traverse. A floating light guides the mariner 
by night through this narrow and dangerous passage. 

Isle aux Coudres, (Isle of Filberts,) is a large body 
of land lying toward the north shore, opposite the Bay 
of St. Paul's, and about 65 miles from Quebec. It is 
said that when Jacques Cartier, anchored here, on his 
first voyage of discovery up the St. Lawrence, he gave 
this island the name it yet bears, from the great quantity 
of filberts, or hazel nuts, which he found there. 

St. Anne stands on the southeast shore, on a bay of 
the same name. Here is a Catholic College and a settle- 
ment of considerable size, about 70 miles from Quebec. 

As you approach Goose Cape, 75 miles below Quebec, 
the banks of the river seem to decline in the distance ; 
the river now being free of islands, presents a large ex- 
panse of water, here being about 18 miles wide. 

Mal Bay, 80 miles below Quebec, lies on the north- 
west side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of a river 
of the same name. This is a fine section of country, 
producing wheat and other kinds of grain in abundance. 
Beyond this place is seen a beautiful range of hills, ter- 
minating at Cape Eagle and Cape Salmon on the east 

Kamouraska, situated 90 miles below Quebec, on the 
southeast side of the river, contains about 1,500 inhabi- 
tants, and is surrounded by a fruitful district. Vessels 
can land here only at high water; at low water, passen- 
gers are taken ashore in small boats. In the rear of this 



^66 TOUR TI1310UGH CA1VAT)*A. 

village are seen abrupt and sterile hills with little or no? 
verdure. In front are two or three small islands, chiefly 
resorted to for fishing and bathing, this being a favorite 
resort during the summer months, for the citizens of Mon- 
treal and Quebec, and is no doubt destined to become a 
fashionable watering place, where sea bathing can be en- 
joyed by invalids and seekers of pleasure. 

About 105 miles below Quebec are the Pilgrim Islands,. 
a group of rocky islets which are passed to the right. 
On the left, a few miles below, is Hare Island, situated 
near the middle of the river. 

The settlement at the River Du Loup, 120 miles be- 
low Quebec, on the southeast side of the St. Lawrence, 
contains about 1,500 inhabitants. Here commences the 
great road from the St. Lawrence river to the St. John's,, 
by the way of the Madav/aska river and settlement. 

Red Island lies off the the mouth cf the Saguenay,. 
this being the first island of the small group met on as- 
cending the St. Lawrence. It is destitute of a light and 
has caused many shipwrecks during the prevalence of 
fogs and storms, so frequent on the lower part of the river 
and Gulf of St. Lawrence. Green Island lies nearly 
opposite Red Island, on the south east. 

As you approach the mouth of the Saguenay, the wa- 
ters take a very black hue, perceivable for many miles 
below, and extending far into the St. Lawrence. Just 
within the mouth of the river, near Tadousac, there is a 
round mountain peak, called Tete du Boule, about 800 
feet high. 

Tadousac, 140 miles below Quebec, is situated on 
the northwest shore of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth 
of the Saguenay river. This is a post belonging to the 
Hudson Bay Company, and is the residence of one of its 
partners and an agent. They alone are allowed to trade 

# 



TOUR THKOUGII CANADA. 267 

with the Indians in the interior, who occasionaliy visit 
this place, but more frequently Chicoutimi, at the head 
of navigation on the Saguenay, and the post at the Lake 
of St. John, where some of thecorapany's agents also 
reside. At Tadousac is a Roman Catholic Chapel, a 
store and ware-house, and some 8 or 10 dwellings. Here 
is erected a flag staff, surrounded by several pieces of 
cannon, on an eminence elevated about 50 feet and over 
looking the inner harbor, where is a sufficient depth of 
water to float the largest vessels. This place was early 
settled by the French, who are said to have here erected 
the first dwelling built of stone and mortar in Canada, 
and the remains of it are still to be seen. The view is 
exceedingly picturesque from this point. The southern 
shore of the St. Lawrence, may be traced even with the 
naked eye for many a league — the undulating lines of 
snow white cottages stretching far away, both east and 
west — while the scene is rendered gay and animated by 
the frequent passage of the merchant vessel ploughing its 
way towards the port of Quebec, or hurrying upon the 
descending tide to the Gulf — while from the summit of 
the hill upon which Tadousac stands, the sublime and 
impressive scenery of the Saguenay rises into view. 

We extract from the Report of the Commissioners for 
exploring the Saguenay, published in 1829 : the following: 

" Upon landing at Tadousac, we proceeded immediate- 
ly to examine a few of the geognostical characters of the 
country. The only place of residence here is erected on 
a bank of sandy alluvium, elevated about fifty feet above 
the river, and forming a flat terrace at the base of the 
mountain, which suddenly emerges at a short distance 
behind. The rocks of which these mountains are com- 
posed is granite, either of a red or grey color, depending 
upon that of the feldspar. On the shore were seen small 



268 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

deposits of magnetic iron. Here bases were measured, 
and the requisites angle taken, for determining tlie height 
of the most elevated point on either side of the Saguenay 
at its mouth, and this was found to be 912 feet on the 
westerly side, and 588 on the opposite." 

L'ance a L'eait, or Water Harbor, situated on the 
Saguenay, about a half a mile above Tadousac, is the 
name of a settlement where is an extensive lumber estab- 
lishment. 

The St. Lawrence River, below the mouth of the 
Saguenay, assumes an imposing appearance, gradually 
widening until its breadth exceeds one hundred miles. 
The following descriptioa of this mighty river, is ex- 
tracted from Mr. Buckingham's late work on Canada, pub- 
lished in 1843. 

"From this point, where the Saguenay joins the St. 
Lawrence, the distance from shore to shore, across the 
latter stream, exceeds 20 miles, and the width goes on 
increasing till it expands to forty miles from Cape Chat 
to Cape des Monts Pelles. From thence it goes on still 
further, expanding till it reaches the breadth of about 120 
miles, from shore to shore, in a line drawn from the ex- 
treme point of Gaspe, due north across the western edge 
of the Island of Anticosti, and so on to the coast of La- 
brador. Through this magnificent mouth of the river, 
we pass into the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; having thus 
traced the noble stream, from the Island of Mackinaw, in 
the straits of Michillimackinac, at the head of Lake Hu- 
ron, down to the Island of Anticosti ; a distance of at 
least 2,000 miles, through a chain of the most splendid 
lakes in the world, and with almost every variety of 
scenery along its majestic course." 

For a further description of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
and voyage to Halifax, see " Buckingham's Canada, 
Nova-Scotia, &c." 



TOUll THROUGH CANADA. 269 

THE SAGUENAY. 

'^ This river has its mouth, according to common compu- 
tation, 140 miles below Quebec, on the north shore of the 
St. Lawrence, in latitude 48 deg. 6 min. 38 sec, long. 70 
deg. 40 min. west from Greenwich. It discharges a much 
greater body of water than any other river that falls into 
the St. Lawrence. Indeed it is the largest river in North 
America, the St. Lawrence excepted, east of the Alle- 
ghanies. 

'' It takes the name of Saguenay only below Lake St. 
John, which lies about 120 miles N. by W. of Quebec. 
From Tadousac, a distance of about 140 miles to the 
lake, the course of the river is nearly east and west, Ta- 
dousac being, as before stated, in lat. 48 deg. 6 min. 38 
sec, and the south side of Lake St. John in 48 deg. 23 
min. 12 sec, giving only 16 miles to the north of Ta- 
dousac." 

This lake, which is nearly circular^ is about 40 miles 
across, and it is the centre of an extensive region the wa- 
ters of which flow into it from the north, the west, and 
the south, in twelve principal rivers, and are discharged 
to the east by the Saguenay. 

The streams which flow into this lake from the south, 
the west and the northwest, have their sources in a moun- 
tainous tract which ranges nearly east and west for a 
long distance, and then, far in the west, bends northward- 
ly, separating these waters from those which seek the 
St. Lawrence above Quebec and the Ottawa, and regard- 
ing them in their still wider relations, they are part of 
the extensive range of highlands which divide the basin 
of the St. Lawrence from that of Hudson's Bay and its 
tributaries. 

" The country, the waters of which are discharged into 
the St. Lawrence, by the Saguenay, is more extensive 
than all the rest of Lower Canada; but it has till lately 



270 TOUR THROUGH CAMADA. 

contained, probably, not more th"n a hundred Indian fa- 
milies, who live by hunting and fishing, and exchange their 
surplus with lessees of the King's Post, for a few articles 
of imported produce. 

" The passage of the waters of the Saguenay, from be- 
low the Ha-IIa Bay to the St. Lawrence, a .distance of 
fifty miles, is one of the wonders of nature. They pene- 
trate through a mountainous tract, composed of sienite 
granite, forming an immense canal in many places, with 
banks of perpendicular rocks rising from a thousand to 
fifteen hundred feet above the surface of the river, which 
is from a hundred to a hundred and fifty fathoms deep 
nearly the whole way, and from a mile to three miles 
broad. The power and pride of^ man is as much hum- 
bled in some parts of this tremendous chasm, as in the 
immediate presence of Niagara Falls. In many places 
the largest vessel may run close to the perpendicular 
rocks, with 100 fathoms water. There are, however, se- 
veral coves with good anchorage. In Ha-Ha Bay the 
Navy of England might ride, in from five to eighty fa- 
thoms. At twelve miles below Chicoutimi, which is dis- 
tant 68 miles from Tadousac, the spring tide rises 18 
feet, and there is from 10 to 50 fathoms at low water. 
The tide rises and the river is navigable seven miles 
above Chicoutimi, where the rapids of the outlet of Lake 
St. John commence. At this point a range of high- 
lands crosses the Saguenay, extending along the head 
waters of the Malbay, the Gouflre, the Jacques Cartier, 
St. Anne, Batiscan, and St. Maurice, and forming the 
south and western side of the basin of Lake St. John, 
with the Hudson's Bay highlands on the north and east. 

" It is only within a few years that there have been any 
agricultural settlers in the Saguenay country. At present 
there are a few hundred families of squatters from the 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 271 

north shore below Quebec, chiefly induced to go in by 
employment in lumbering, &cc., for Mr. Price's numerous 
saw-mills. At Ha-Ha Bay, there is a church, and about 
150 families, and openings are made at various places on 
the river. The soil is of disintegrated clay and granite, 
with limestone in some places. The general level of the 
land above Ha-Ha Bay, as far as the eye can reach from 
the river, is not higher than the island of Orleans, al- 
though more broken. The timber mixed, hard and soft, 
and of a middling grow^th. The climate is milder, if any 
thing, than at Quebec. With the exception of the ridge 
crossing below Lake St. John, already mentioned, the 
country to a great extent round the lake, but particularly 
on the southwest side, is of the same character." 

" On entering the Saguenay from Tadousac, which is 
about one mile wide at its mouth, the hills soon rise ab- 
ruptly from the water's edge, from 500 to 1000 feet above 
the tide way, presenting an appearance somewhat simi- 
lar to the entrance from the north into the " Highlands" 
of the Hudson river, with which most travellers are fa- 
miliar, divested, however, of all appearance of habita- 
tion for many miles, and the Saguenay averaging twice 
the width of the Hudson. 

Tete du Boule, a round mountain peak, rises on the 
north side of the river, about one mile from its mouth. 
Here the rocks and hills are mostly bare, but the verdure 
increases as you ascend. 

About three miles from Tadousac, the river inclines to 
the north for a few miles, then resumes its western course 
to Chicoutimi, a distance of sixty-eight miles from the 
St. Lawrence, and being in many places three miles in 
width, with a great depth of water, until you arrive at 
the bar, sixty miles from its mouth. 



272 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

The Two Profiles, seen on the north shore, a few 
miles up, and elevated several hundred feet above the wa,- 
ter, bear a striking resemblance to the human face. 

St. Louis Island presents a rocky and rugged appear, 
ance. It lies eighteen miles above Tadousac, and may 
be passed by large vessels on either side. Here, it is 
said, fine trout may be taken in large quantities. 

At the mouth of the river Marguerite, on the north 
shore, and at St. John's Bay, on the south, are lumber 
establishments, — the latter situated twenty- eight miles 
above the mouth of the Saguenay. 

At the distance of 34 miles from Tadousac, on the 
south shore of the river, are two enormous masses of 
rock called Eternity Point and Cape Trinity. They 
rise from the water's edge to the height of some 1,500 feet, 
and so abruptly that they can almost be touched with the 
hand from the deck of the passing steamer. The aspect 
of these mountain- cliffs is beyond expression grand. No 
man can pass along their base and lift his eyes up their 
vast height, without awe — without experiencing the most 
intense emotions of sublimity. Sheltered between them 
is a lovely recess of the shore, called Trinity Cove, its se- 
questered and lonely beauty enhanced by its strong con- 
trast with the wild grandeur of the rest of the scene. 

Trinity Cape takes its name from the three peaks of 
its summit, bearing some resemblance to three human 
heads,- and the name of Etijrnity Point is abundantly 
indicated by the huge pile of ever-during rock of which 
it is composed. The whole scene — the majestic river, a 
hundred fathoms deep, rolling along the base and in the 
shadows of the vast and beetling cliffs, bearing on their 
rocky fronts the impress of Almighty power and ever- 
lasting duration— ^the whole scene at this place is unsur- 
passed for its magnificence and solemn beauty. 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 273 

Contiiming up the Saguenay, Statue Point is next 
passed, where formerly was to be seen a rock in a niche, 
high above the water, which resembled a huge human 
fis:ure. The niche is still visible, but the figure has fallen 
into the deep water. 

The Tableau is an upright rock, rising almost perpen- 
dicularly from the water, to the height of several hun- 
dred feet, situated on the south shore. 

The scenery in this vicinity, and for several miles below, 
is exceedingly grand and picturesque, — high and precipi- 
tous hills, clothed with a stunted growth of forest trees, 
and all around a wild solitude, unbroken by a sign ol 
habitation or life, except occasionally a huge porpoise 
showing his back above the wave, and the water-fowl 
peculiar to these northern latitudes. 

Fifty-seven miles from Tadousac opens the Ha-Ha, or 
Great Bay, as it is sometimes called. It is entered on 
the left, while the Saguenay proper comes down on the 
right. At the head of the bay there is a large settlement, 
with several extensive saw-mills, owned by Wm. Price, 
Esq., an enterprising merchant of Quebec, who is said to 
give employment to 2,000 persons, living in the vicinity 
of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence, principally in the 
lumbering business. 

From the entrance to Ha-Ha bay to Chicoutimi, a dis- 
tance of about twelve miles, the banks of the river are 
less rugged and are clothed with more verdure, and ope- 
nings may now be seen on both shores, with occasionally 
a habitation. About six miles below Chicoutimi there 
is a bar, which can be passed by vessels of a large size 
only when the tide is up, this being the first impediment 
to navigation in ascending this noble river, which for 
grandeur of scenery and depth of water, may vie with any- 
other stream on the American continent. 



274 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 

Chicoutimi, 68 miles from Tadousac, is another pest 
occupied by the Hudson Baj' Company, which has a re- 
fiident agent stationed here. Two or three dwellings and 
a venerable looking Roman Catholic chapel of small di- 
mensions constitute the settlement. It is one of those 
stations where, in former days, the indefatigable Jesuits 
established a home for themselves : a church yet remains 
to attest their religious zeal. This edifice is believed to 
have been one of the first erected in Canada. The loca- 
lity selected is singularly picturesque and romantic. Oa 
one side the Saguenay pours down its mighty flood, the 
shores on either side covered to the water's edge with the 
most luxuriant foilage, while, on the other side, a safe 
and commodious bay receives the mountain torrent of the 
Chicoutimi river. 

The church, a peculiarly agreeable object in so remote 
a spot, stands about 100 yards from the margin of the 
stream, in the centre of a plat of green-sward set out with 
shrubbery, and forest trees crown the rising ground in 
the rear. Here assemble at stated periods the children of 
the soil; some from the region of the far north — the lailh 
which their fathers were taught in earlier ages, leading 
them to reverence a spot hallowed by traditional associ- 
ations. 

" The region of the Saguenay cannot long remain si- 
lent and unoccupied. It is destined to become the home 
of an active and enterprising race. The climate is well 
adapted to the purposes of agriculture and the virgin soil 
cannot fail to repay the labors of the farmer. 

'^ The aspect of the country around Chicoutinai is di- 
vested of the rugged and rocky character which distin- 
guishes the banks of the Saguenay for the first 50 miles, 
and as the traveller advances inland the appearance of 
the country indicates a superior soil — while the climate 



TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 275 

in the vicinity of Lake St. John approaches very closely 
to that of the Montreal district." 

Taken altogether, few excursions can afford more in- 
terest to the tourist and seeker cf pleasure, than a visit 
to this place and its vicinity. Besides having a view of 
the magnificent scenery of the St. LawTence, there maybe 
here seen a picturesque water-fall, and if fond of angling 
or hunting, the visiter may enjoy himself to his heart's 
content — surrounded by a vast wilderness, as yet almost 
unbroken by the haunts of man. 

This excursion occupies from three to four days, after 
leaving Quebec. 



VALUE OF MONEYS. 

The following information will be found valuable to 
strangers visiting Canada, and particularly to emigrants 
bringing with them sterling money. 

Value of Colonial Monies. 

The basis of the currency is the imperial gold standard, 
differing from sterling money in the different nominal 
value of the pound and its constituents. 

The pound sterling is by law fixed at Twenty-Four shil- 
lings and Four-Pence currency. At this rate all large 
transactions are settled, and remittances, with the cor- 
rection of the day for exchange, are calculated. 

One pound currency, contains four dollars. 
One dollar " " five shillings. 

One shilling '' " two sixpences. 

One sixpence '•' " six pennies. 

One penny " " two coppers. 

The value in sterling of the pound currency is rather 

over 16s. 5:^^d. 

The dollar currency rather over 4s. l]d. 

" shilling " " 95d. 

" sixpence " rather under 5d. 

But in retail transactions an approximation is made ta 



276 VALU\E OF MOKEYS. 

the value of the coins current in Britain and #he United 
States, and in small purchases the following are the rates 
at which such coins are usually paid away: — 

BRITISH. 

The sovereign, £1 4s. 6d. 

The crown, 6s. Id. 

Half crown, 3s. O^d. 

Shilling, called Trente-Sous, Is. 3d. 

Sixpence, " Quinze-Sous, 7|d. 

AMERICAN. 

Eagle, £2 10s. 

Dollar 5s. Id. 

Half dollar, 2s. 6U. 

Dime, or ten cents, 6d. 

Real, or Yo7~k shilling, T^d. 

A shilling sterling and a quarter of a dollar are taken 
in the stores as equal. The exchangeable value of the 
dollar, of course, varies with the course of exchange be- 
tween the Provinces and the United States, which is prin- 
cipally ruled by that between New- York and London. 
In general, its value is about 5s. Id. currency, or 4s. 2d. 
sterling. 

The shilling currency is subdivided into twenty-four 
copper coins, called coppers. Coinsof this metal, of Co- 
lonial, British and American origin, and of very various 
denominations, are common, and each is pretty generally 
taken as the equivalent of a copper, without much refer- 
ence to its intrinsic value. The English Penny, Half- 
penny, and Farthing, of not less than five-sixths of the 
weight of currency, is a legal tender to the amount of 
12d. 

The following coins are also usually taken at the rates 

specified: 

French crown, 5s. 6d. 

" half crown, 2s. fid. 

Pistorine, lOd . 

Five franc piece, 4s. 8d. 



EASTERN TOUK. 



Travellers desiring to visit the New- England States, 
on leaving Canada, are conveyed from Montreal to La 
Prairie by steamboat, and thence by railroad cars to St. 
John's, where commodious and well regulated steamboats 
again take them up for Burlington, Vermont. This is 
one of those beautiful towns, which so often attract the 
notice of a stranger, in travelling through the northern 
and eastern states. For a description of Burlington, see 
page 115. 

A daily line of conveyance extends from Burlington to 
Boston, passing through Montpelier, (the capitol of Ver- 
mont,) Hanover, N. H,, and thence to Concord, by stage, 
and from the latter place to Boston, by railroad. 

If intending to visit the White Mountains of the 
Granite State, the tourist can pursue a route which 
diverges from Montpelier to Danville and Littleton ; and 
thence across New Hampshire, through the notch of the 
White Mountains, to Conway. From the latter place a 
line of stages extends eastward to Portland, Maine, run- 
ning three times a week. 

Table of Distances from Bui'lington to Concord, N. H., 
by Stage Route. 

Montpelier, 38 miles. 

Chelsea, 22 60 " 

Honover, 26 86 '■' 

Lebanon,.... 5 91 " 

Springfield, 17 108 " 

Concord, 33 141 '' 

From Concord to Boston, by railroad route, 76 miles. 

T 



278 EASTERN TOUR. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

The following description of Lake Champlain is copied 
from Thompson's History of Vermont. 

■' Lake Chajaiplain lies between the States of Vermont 
and New- York. It extends in a straight line from south 
to north, 102 miles from Whitehall, to the 45th degree of 
latitude, and thence about about 24 miles to St. Johns, in 
Canada, affording an easy communication with that Pro* 
vince and New- York. The length of this lake from south 
to north, measured in a straight line from one extremity 
to the other, and supposing it to terminate northerly at 
St. Johns, is 126 miles. Its width varies from one-fourth 
of a mile to 13 miles, and the mean width is about 4| 
mUes. This would give an area of 567 square miles,, 
two-thirds of which lie within the limits of Vermont, 
Its depth is generally sufficient for the navigation of the 
largest vessels. It received its present name from Samuel 
Champlain, a French nobleman, who discovered it in 
the spring of 1609, and who died at Quebec in 1635, and 
was not drowned in its waters, as has often been said. 
One of the names given to this lake by the aborigines, is 
said to have been Caniaderi-Guarunte, signifying the- 
mouth or door of the country. If so, it was very appro- 
priate, as it forms the gateway between the country on 
the St. Lawrence and that on the Hudson. The name of 
this lake in the Abenaqui tongue Vvas Petawa-bouquey. 
signifying alternate land and water, in allusion to the nu- 
merous islands and projecting points of land along the 
lake. Previous to the settlement of the country by Eu- 
ropeans, this lake had long been the thoroughfare between 
hostile and powerful Indian tribes, and its shores the 
scene of many a mortal conflict. And after the settle- 
ment, it continued the same in reference to the French 
and English colofiies, and subsequently in reference to the 



EASTERJV TOUR. 279 

English in Canada and the United States. In consequence 
of this peculiarity of its location, the name of Lake 
Champlain stands connected with some of the most in- 
teresting events in the annals of our country ; and the 
transactions associated with the names of Ticonderoga 
and Crown Point,* and Plattsburgh, and many other 
places, united with the variety and beauty of the scener)', 
the neatness and accommodation of the steamboats, and 
the unrivalled excellency of their commanders, render a 
tour through this lake one of the most interesting and 
agreeable to the enlightened traveller." 

* Crown Point Fortress is now in ruins, and is opposite to the 
south part of Addison, in Vermont. It was built by tiie French in 
!73l, on a point of land between West Bay and the lake, and was 
called Fort St. Frederick. In 1759, it was surrendered to the 
British troops under Gen. Amherst, and was held by the British 
till May 10, 1775, when ii Avas taken by Col. Seth Warner, on the 
same day that Ticonderoga surrendered to Allen. It again fell 
into the hands of the British in 1776, who kept possession of it 
till after the capture of Burgoyne, in 1777. It is nearly a regular 
pentagon, the longest curtain being ninety, and the shortest about 
seventy-five yards in length. The ramparts are about twenty-five 
feet in thickness, and riveted with masonry throughout. The 
ditch is blasted out of the solid rock. There are two demi-lunes 
and some small detached outworks. An arched passage led from 
the interior of the works to the lake, and a well about ninety feet 
in depth was sunk in one of the bastions. The fort erected by the 
French in 1731, was a smaller work and nearer the water. The 
present fort was commenced by the English in 1759, and accord- 
ing to Dr. Dwight, (Travels, vol. ii, p. 444,) cost about two mil- 
lions of pounds sterling. The whole peninsula being of solid 
rock, covered with a thin layer of earth, the works cannot be as- 
sailed by regular approaches ; and both in construction and posi- 
tion, the fortress is among the strongest in North America. It 
has been long dismantled, and is now quite dilapidated; but its 
form and dimensions are still easily traced and measured. 

Fort Ticonderoga is fully described at page 109. 



280 



EASTERN TOUR. 



List of Steamboats Built on Lake Champlaik", 



Bniltj 


Name. 


Tons 


CoMMAXDERS. 


Remarks. 


1S09 1 


Vermont, 


167 


J. Winans, 


Sunk Oct. 1815. 


1815 I 


Phcenix, 


336 


J. Sherman, 


Burnt Sept 1819. 


1817 ! 


Champlain, • • 


1-28 


George Brush, •■ 


Burnt in 1817. 


1818 1 


Congress, 


209 


K. W. Sherman,- 


Condemned 1835. 


1820 ; 


2d Phoenix, -..■ 


343 


J. Sherman. 


Condemned 1837. 


1825 ' 


Gen. Greene, •• 


115 


Han Lyon, 


Conv. to sloop 1833 


18i7 


Franklin, 


350 


R. W. Sherman,- 


Condemned 1838. 


1827 


Vv'^ashinston, •• 


134 


James Snow, - •• 


Now running. 


182S 


McDonough, •• 


133 


Wm. Burton, 


Lost 1S41. 


1832 


Winooski, 


226 


Dan Lyon, 


Now running. 


1832 


Water-Witch,- 


107 


Duff Green, 


Conv. to sch. 1833. 


1837 


Burlington, •• 


405 


R. W. Sherman,- 


Now running. 


1838 


V/hiiehall, • • • • 


460 


Gideon Lathrop, 


Now running. 


1842 


Saranac, 




Wm. R. Philips. 


Now running. 



Note. — It is a fact v/ortliy of being recorded, that during 
thirty-two years of steam navigation on Lake Champlain, 
and the transportation of more than a million of passen- 
gers, no life has been lost or person injured by the explo- 
sion of steam. On the 5th of September, 1819, six per- 
sons lost their lives by the burning of the steamboat 
Phoenix, while on her passage a little to the north of 
Burlington ; and in 1826, one person was killed by the 
collision of the Second Phcenix and Congress, near Port 
Kent. 



MoNTPELiER, 38 miles east of Bmdington, is hand- 
somely situated on a plain of moderate extent, at the 
junction of the north and south branches of Winooski, 
or Onion River ; and is surrounded by elevated hills, 
some of which rise abruptly from the plain. The road 
over the Green Mountains, which passes through this 
place, encounters no high hills, and thus renders Montpe- 
lier a great thoroughfare. This village being the capital 
of Vermont, contains the state-house, which is an elegant 
granite building; a court-house and jail,- 4 churches, 22 



EASTERR TOUR. 281 

Stores, and several well kept public houses. The popu- 
lation, is about 2,000, 

The villages of Vermont, are for the most part de- 
lightfully situated, the whole state being celebrated for 
its salubrity, and for the industry and thrift of its peo- 
ple. 

In addition to the route from Burlington east, there is 
another line of travel extending from Whitehall at the 
head of Lake Champlain, to Rutland, Chester, Bellows 
Falls. Keene, N. H., and thence to Boston j a total dis- 
tance 172 miles. A railroad is now constructing from 
Boston to Fitchburg, a distance of 54 miles, which is no 
doubt destined to be continued to Whitehall. When 
finished this will furnish a speedy conveyance from Bos- 
ton to Montreal, via Lake Champlain, during the season 
of navigation. 

Since the completion of the line of railroads from Al- 
bany to Boston, a distance of 200 miles, this latter route 
has become the great thoroughfare for travellers visiting 
the eastern st!fe,tes, the line being continued from Boston 
to Portland, Maine; a farther distance eastward of 105 
miles, and from Boston through Lowell, to Concord, K. 
H., 76 miles north. 

At Gbeenbush, opposite the city of Albany, com- 
mences the Albany and West Stockbridge Railroad, 
which extends to the Massachusetts state line, a distance 
of 38 miles. This road passes through the towns of 
Schodack, Kinderhook, Chatham, and Caanan, w^here 
there are depots. 

From Chatham-Four- Corners to the state line, and 
parallel to the last named road, runs the Hudson and 
Berkshire Railroad; but west of Chatham the latter 
road diverges, in a southwest direction, to the city of 
Hudson, distant from West Stockbridge 34 miles. 



282 EASTERN TOUR. 

Both the above roads run within a few miles of New 
Lebanon Springs, and the Shaker Settlement in the same 
town. During the summer months a stage runs from the 
city of Albany, and the railroad to 

New Lebanon Springs Village, delightfully situa- 
ted near the Massuchusetts state line, and 25 miles east 
of Albany. This place has long been a well known and 
much frequented resort during the summer months. The 
spring is remarkable for its size and beauty, being ten 
feet in diameter, and discharging a volume of water suffi- 
cient to propel several mills in the vicinity. It is in ct-a- 
siderable repute for its medicinal qualities, particularly 
in rheumatic and scrofulous complaints, and in cutaneous 
eruptions. Here are 5 hotels and boarding houses, 1 
Raptist church, 4 stores, 2 woollen factories, and some 
20 or 25 dwellings. 

New Lebanon Shaker Settlement, is situated two 
miles south of the Springs. This settlement contains 
about 600 inhabitants, 1 church, and 10 large dwelling 
houses occupied in common by the United Society of Be- 
lievers, as they call themselves. Formerly the religious 
services on the Sabbath attracted many visiters ; but of 
late they have discontinued public service, for the alleged 
reason that they were disturbed in their devotions, by 
the improper conduct of strangers visiting them from idle 
curiosity. -~— ^ 

Two miles west of the State Line, the Albany and West 
Stockbridge Railroad passes through a tunnel 600 feet 
in length — excavated through solid rock. 

At the State Line, 38 miles from Albany, and 162 
miles from Boston, diverges the Housatonic Railroad to 
West Stockbridge, 2| miles, and extending thence to 
Bridgeport, Conn., down the valley of Housatonic — a total 
distance of 100 miles. 



EASTERN TOUR. 283 

PiTTSFELD, 49 miles from Albany, and 151 miles from 
Boston, by railroad, is a thriving place, -vl-here centres 
the main business of this part of Berkshire county, which 
has long been held ia esteem for its agricultural and 
manufacturing enterprise and advancement. The east 
and west branches of the Housatonic river here unite, 
affording an immense amount of hydraulic power, dn 
which are situated several extensive woollen and cotton 
factories, and a manufactory of muskets, which supplies 
annually a large number, exclusively to the United States 
Government. 

The village contains about 2,500 inhabitants, a town 
hall, 5 churches of different denominations, and the 
Berkshire Medical Institution, besides several flourishing 
Seminaries of learning for the respective sexes. 

Dalton, 5 miles from Pittsfieid, is situated on the east 
branch of the Housatonic river, where there are several 
paper-mills and other extensive manufactories. 

Hinsdale^ 3 miles further east, is situated in an ele- 
vated region well adapted to grazing'. 

Washington, 5 miles from Hinsdale, is another eleva- 
ted township, in which the east branch of the Housato- 
nic, and the Westfield rivers both take their rise, and flow 
in opposite directions. At, this point the track of the 
Western Railroad, is^elevated 1,430 feet above the wa- 
ters of the Hudson river, which is reduced to about 900 
feet at the State Line, 24 miles west of the summit. 

Becket is the next mountain town, 3 miles east of 
Washington. Here the head branch of the Westfield 
river, a fine stream which joins the Connecticut opposite 
to Springfield, takes its rise in the midst of strikingly 
wild and varied scenery, made up of lofty and richly 
wooded hills, dark glens, bold precipices, dashing tor- 
rents and cascades, deep-cut ravines now spanned high 



284 EASTERN TOUK. 

up their steep sides by railroad bridges, and now filled {if 
the required grade by huge embankments upheld by 
enormous walls of massive masonryj with here and there 
a secluded mountain farm spreading its green pastures to 
the sun, and kept forever fresh by perennial springs and 
rivulets of the purest water, all presented in such quick 
tfttccession as the railroad train sweeps through the wind- 
ing gorges of the mountains, that the feeling excited is 
one of strange and vivid pleasure, combining the enjoy- 
ment of nature in some of its most picture,sque and ro- 
mantic forms, with a sense of grateful exultation at the 
palpable triumph of science and art over obstacles to hu- 
man intercourse and social progress^ which have hereto- 
fore been classed among the most formidable. 

Chester Factory, 9 miles further, is a manufactur- 
ing settlement on Westfield river. 

Chester Village, 7 miles further east, is still eleva- 
ted and surrounded by a picturesque region, abounding 
^. v/ith streams celebrated for their fine trout. 
/fi /A'tI^/ Westfield, 1 1 miles further, is a place of singular beau- 

'/ ty. situated on the river of the same name. It lies in a 

/ 
' valley or basin, of about 4 miles in breadth, surrounded 

by high hills, and is supposed to have been once the bed 

of a lake. The Hampshire and Hamden Canal, passes 

through this town, in its course from Northampton to New 

Haven, 

West Springfield, 8 miles further, is handsomely 
situated on both sides of Weslfield river, at its confluence 
with the Connecticut, which is spanned by a fine bridge 
extending to Springfield on the opposite shore. The beau- 
tiful valley of the Connecticut, is here seen, during the 
summer months in all its loveliness. 

Springfield, 102 miles east of Albany, and 98 miles 
west of Boston, by railroad route, is most delightfully 



EASTERN TOUR. 285 

Situated on the east bank of the Connecticut. The depot 
is on the north side of the village, which has several wel^ 
kept public houses, this being the principal stopping place 
on the route, east and west. The main street runs north 
and south, parallel with the river, at the distance from it of 
a quarter of a mile, and two or three miles in length . The 
houses are mostly well built, and many of them are ele- 
gant, being surrounded in several instances by highly 
cultivated grounds. 

This is a populous town, containing in 1840, 10,958 in- 
habitants. The village has a court-house and jail, 8 church- 
es, 2 banks, and a large number of stores. The United 
States Government has here one of the most extensive 
arsenals of construction in the country. This establish- 
ment, which is well worthy of a visit, is pleasantly situa- 
ted on elevated ground, half a mile east of the village. 
The buildings are arranged on a large square, and con- 
sist of one brick edifice 240 feet by 32, and two stories 
high, occupied by lock-filers, stockers and finishers ; a 
brick forging-shop, 150 feet by 32; a brick building 60 
feet by 32, and 2 stories high, the second story forming a 
spacious hall devoted to religious worship; a brick building 
100 feet by 40; and 2 stories high, used as a depository 
of fire arms, said to contain 90,000 muskets in complete 
order, the whole being arranged in the most beautiful 
and regular manner. There are also other stores and 
shops, and a number of convenient residences for the 
oUcers connected with the establishment. 

The principal hotels in Springfield, are the American 
House, Main-street, the Massasoit House, Main- street, 
both near the railroad depot; Hamden House, Court 
Square, and the United States Hotel, Main, corner State- 
street. 

From Springfield there is a line of conveyance up and 



286 EASTERN TOUR. 

down the valley of the Connecticut. A railroad is now 
constructing to Hartford, 25 miles south, where it will 
connect with the railroad extending to New Haven, a 
total distance of 63 miles. This will furnish another de*^ 
i\.4l sirable route between Boston and New- York, passing 
through an interesting and populous region. 

Northampton, on t|je west bank of the Connecticut, 
17 miles north of Springfield, is one of the oldest and 
most beautiful towns in Massachusetts. It was incorpo- 
raied in 1654, and in 1840, contained 3,750 inhabitants. 
The village is handsomely built, containing many elegant 
houses, a court-house and jail, 5 churches, a bank, and 
an insurance company, 30 stores, and several public 
houses. This place is on the old stage road between 
Albany and Boston. Here commences the Farmington 
Canal, which extends to New-Haven, on Long Island 
Sound, a distance of 87 miles, 

Mount Tom, in the town of Northampton, and Mount 
HoLYOKE on the opposite side of the river, are lofty sum- 
mits, often visited by tourists for their commanding pros- 
pects. The latter is elevated 1,070 feet above the level 
of the river, affording an extensive prospect of the beau- 
tiful valley of the Connecticut and a wide range of 
country, amply compensating the labor and difficulty of 
the ascent. Two buildings have been erected on its sum- 
rait for the purpose of accommodating visiters with re- 
freshments. 

Hadley, 2 miles east of Northampton, and on the op- 
posite side of the river, is also an ancient settlement. It 
was the head-quarters of the army employed for the de- 
fence of this section of country, in the old Indian war i« 
1675-6, with the great Sachem, Philip. 
The other villages of note on the Connecticut river 



EASTERN TOUll. 287 

above Northampton, are Greenfield, 20 miles north ; 
Brattleboro, and Bellows-Falls, Vermont. 

The railroad route eastward from Springfield, passes 
through a succession of small villages, when you ar- 
rive at 

Worcester, 54 miles distant. This is a large and im- 
portant place, containing many facilities for trade and in- 
tercourse in various directions. In addition to the Boston 
and Worcester Railroad, extending to Boston, 44 miles 
east, the Norwich and Worcester Railroad, here diverges 
south to Allen's Point, 66 miles,- and the Blackstone 
Canal connects it with Providence, 45 miles distant in a 
southeast direction. 

The village, one of the finest in New-England, con- 
tains a court-house and jail, 8 churches, and the Massa- 
chusetts Lunatic Asylum, with its spacious and commo- 
dious edifices. This establishment was founded in ]832, 
and by its admirable management and condition does honor 
to the state. Although many of the worst cases of in- 
sanity are found here, yet experience has proved that 
there are very few cases of derangement, which may not 
be ameliorated by the kindly influence of humane treat- 
ment addressed to the moral and social principles of o'nr 
nature. 

The principal hotels in Worcester, are the American 
Temperance Hotel; the United States Hotel, and the 
Worcester House. 

The cars run over the road between Worcester and 
Boston, in about two hours, passing through several plea- 
sant villages. 

BOSTON, the seat of government in Massachusetts and 
and great commercial and social centre of New-England, 
stands on a peninsula in the westernmost and deepest in- 
land curve of Massachusetts Bay. The peninsula, origi- 



EASTERN TOtJH. 

nally of very uneven surface, was principally marked by 
three bold hills called Beacon Hill, Copp's Hill, and Fort 
Hill ; and its greatest length, measuring from the Rox- 
bury line where it connects, on the south, with the main- 
land, across ''The Neck" northerly to the head-land 
formed by Fort Hill, opposite to Charlestown, is about :3 
miles, and its greatest breadth, from Charles River bay, 
behind, or on the west side, to the harbor in front, on the 
east side, is about 1 mile. Taking the center of the town, 
at or near Cornhill and the Old State House, for the point 
of observation, it is in N. Lat. 42 deg., 21 min., 23 secj 
in E. Lon. from the meridian of Washington, 5 deg., 58 
min., and in W. Lon. from Greenwich, Eng, 71 deg., 4 
min., 9 sec. 

Boston was founded in August, 1630, ten years, lacking 
about four months, after the first landing of the Pilgrims 
at Plymouth in December, 1620. During the colonial 
period the growth of the town, as of the country gene- 
rally, was slow. Even as late as 1790, when the first 
census was taken under the present Government of the 
United States, then newly established, the population of 
Boston was only 18,038. In 1800, it had risen to24,937; 
in 1810, to 33,250j and in 1820, to 43,298; showing a rafe 
of increase, in each successive period, of about 33g per 
cent. In 1830, however, the number had advanced to 
61,391; and in 1840, to 93,383; showing a 7-a^e of increase, 
not far from 50 per cent in each of these two periods. 
This acceleration in the ratio of increase, from about one 
third to one half, is somewhat remarkable, not so much, 
perhaps, for its amount, as from its coincidence with that 
change in the policy of our national government which 
was adopted for the purpose of introducing and promot- 
ing domestic manufactures, through the agency of dis- 
criminating and protecting duties on imports. \Up to the 



EASTERN TOUR. 289 

period referred to, the capital and the enterprise of Boston 
had been chiefly employed in commerce and its dependent 
occupations ; and though the change in question was not 
strenuously opposed b)'^ the great majority of the com- 
mercial classes of thafccity, yet when it was once adopt- 
ed, no community in the country embarked in manufac- 
tures more promptly and efficiently; and the result may, 
at least, be seen in the striking coincidence between the 
date of that change which enlarged the field of enterprise 
for the intelligence, capital, labor, and skill of that com- 
munity, and the commencement of a greatly accelerated 
rale of increase in its population and wealth. 

In this progress of population the original limits of the 
peninsula have been found much too narrow for the grow- 
ing numbers, and the city now consists of three distinct 
parts, namely, Boston of the peninsula — South-Boston, 
built along the westerly base and slopes of Dorchester 
Heights, on ground formerly belonging to the town of 
Dorchester, but annexed to peninsular Boston in 1804 — 
and East-Boston, built on an island in the harbor, former* 
ly called Noodle's-Island, lying off against the northerly 
portion of the peninsula and separated from Charlestown 
and the main-land on that side, by the waters of the Mys- 
tic river as they mingle with the harbor. It is connected 
with the main land at Chelsea by a bridge 600 feet long, 
and with the peninsular city by steam ferry boats which 
start from each side every five minutes. East Boston has 
grown up wholly since 1833. It is the station of the 
Liverpool, or Cunard line of Steam Packets. 

The peninsular situation of Boston has produced the 
necessity of an unusual number of bridges to connect the 
city with the surrounding country. These are six in 
number and of great length; and though they are aU of 
wood, and without any pretensions to architectural beau- 



290 EASTERN TOUR. 

ty, yet their great extent, number, and position, give them, 
an imposing aspect, while their great utility and the train 
of ideas associated therewith, render them objects of 
lively interest. Charles River Bridge, 1,503 feet long, 
and. Warren Bridge, 1,390 feet, ^ad to Charlestown ; 
West-Boston Bridge, 2,758 feet with a causeway, in im- 
mediate continuation. 3.432 feet, leads to Cambridge and 
the Harvard University; Canal Bridge, 2,796 feet, leads 
to East- Cambridge, and about mid-way extends an arm to 
State-Prison Point within the limi ts of Charlestown ; 
South-Boston Bridge, 1,550 feet, and Free Bridge, 1,828 
feet, both lead to South-Boston ; and besides all these 
there is a bridge-like structure, a noble work vastly more 
extensive and costly than either of the bridges, and called 
Western Avenue, a mile and a half long, extending from 
the westerly side of the city across Charles River bay to 
Brookline, with a branch leading to Roxbury, the whole 
of which was designed for a tide-dam, as well as a road, 
and which furnishes a vast amount ot hydraulic power. 

The streets of Boston, especially in the older quarters 
of the city, are rather irregular and narrow; but no city 
in the Union is more substantially built, or contains a 
greater proportion of spacious and costly private man- 
sions; and no cit}' on the globe can boast of as high a 
degree of cleanliness. In this particular, so important 
to the health, comfort, and pleasantness of a large town, 
the streets, public areas, and private courts and yards of 
Boston are truly admirable and a model for all other 
cities : and the simple means by which this desirable con- 
dition of things is secured, is an ordinance which forbids 
the inhabitants to throw offal, dirt, fragments, or filth of 
any sort, vegetable or animal, upon the ground in the 
streets, or in private inclosures, but requires all these 
things to be put into casks, or vessels of some kind, and 



EASTERN TOUR. 291 

then are regularly removed by the scavengers. Thus, the 
frequent handling of this noisome rubbish, which is the 
obvious and unavoidable consequence of permitting them 
to be cast upon the ground at all, is saved, and the removal 
of them is rendered complete and certain. These simple 
regulations being enforced, the city is kept clean, sweet, 
and wholesome ; and that, too, with far less expense of 
time, labor, and money, than is possible in any other 
way. This management saves to Boston, every year, 
many thousands of dollars in her annual expenditures ; 
and its good sense and great economy are so palpable as 
to make it really surprising that it is not the settled sys- 
tem of every populous town. 

Boston harbor, commodious,, deep, easy of access, and 
yet easily defended, is one of the best in the world. The 
approach to the inner harbor, immediately in front of the 
city, is, for a short distance and immediately under the 
batteries of Fort Independence, by a channel so narrow 
that two large ships could scarcely pass abreast, while 
within, it spreads into a noble haven spacious enough for 
500 ships of any size to ride securely. 

Boston is distinguished for the extent and convenience 
of its wharves, as well as its bridges. Of these, Long 
Wharf, the oldest and longest; projects from the foot of 
State-street into the harbor 1650 feet. The other two of 
most importance are Indian Wharf and Central Wharf, 
each about 1,240 feet long, and remarkable, especially 
the latter, for the ample dimensions, the convenience, and 
the massive strength of their warehouses. 

Of the public edifices the most conspicuous is the State 
House. It stands on Beacon Hill, the highest ground on 
the peninsula and 110 feet above tide water. It was 
erected in 1798, of brick, with a front of 173 feet facing 
to the east. It is surmounted by a fine dome, 52 feet in 



292 EASTERN TOX311. 

diameter, copied from that of St. Paul's Cathedral in 
'Jbondon, but on a reduced scale to correspond with the 
proportions of the building. From the dome a cupola 
rises to the height of 230 feet above tide-water, affording 
a prospect of surpassing beauty, and by its vast extent 
invested wi th the most impressive grandeur. Indeed, 
considering the component parts of this view — the wide 
circuit of horizon which it commands — the almost endless 
variety of land and water — the harbor and bay studded with 
islands and spreading away to the far ocean— the wide 
sweep of country with its perpetually varying outline, its 
numerous villages, its embellished rural seats, its cultivated 
fields, its richly wooded hills, its grassy vales and the 
shining streams that wind through them — the roads cross- 
ing in all directions and alive with the busy population; 
and immediately beneath, the compact and crowded city 
with its bridges, its masses of architecture, its towers, 
and spires, and groves of masts, and the incessant move- 
ment on land and water — this vast variety of objects se- 
parately beautiful and yet presenting a thousand con» 
trasts, as well as harmonies, to heighten the effect of 
each and augment the glory of all ; and to crown the 
whole, the character of the community occupying the 
scene ; the associated ideas of law and order, of civil and 
religious freedom, and social security and progress, pro- 
claimed by every object the eye rests on, and the histori- 
cal recollections of the devoted patriotism, the invincible 
courage, and the civil wisdom, which prepared this pros- 
pect and opened the sources of its abounding beauty and 
magnificence — all these things render the prospect from 
the cupola of the State House in Boston the noblest on 
earth. 

Another of th« public edifices here, is the famous 
Faneuil Hall, so named in honor of its founder. It is of 



EASTERN TOUR. 293 

brick, and is 100 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 3 stories 
high. The great hall within, is on the second floor, and 
is 76 feet square, with deep galleries on three sides, the 
other side being furnished with a desk and seats like a 
judicial bench to accommodate the presiding officers of 
public meetings, and the wail above it is adorned with 
portraits of Faneuil, Washington, Hancock, and other 
worthies. 

Faneuil Hall Market is a noble structure, which with 
other valuable improvements, owes its origin to Josiah 
Quincy, (now, and for many years past, President of Har- 
vard University,) during his Mayoralty. It is built of 
hewn granite, and is 536 feet long, 50 feet wide, and 2 
stories high, the most superb market house in the Union. 

The Massachusetts Hospital is also a fine granite struc- 
ture, 168 feet by 54 feet, standing in an area of four acres, 
on the shore of Charles river, on the westerly side of 
4he city. 

The Custom House, built by the United States, near 
the head of Central Wharf, is a costly edifice of granite, 
■and in the Grecian style. The Houses of Industry, Cor- 
rection, and Reformation are in South-Boston. The 
church edifices are very numerous and several of them 
^re very stately and imposing, Boston is abundantly sup- 
plied with excellent hotels and public boarding-houses, 
among which the most spacious are the Tremont House 
and the United States Hotel. 

Of the public grounds in Boston the Common is far the 
largest and most beautiful. It is on the southwesterly 
side of the city, looking across Charles River Bay to 
Brookline and Roxbury. It contains about 50 acres, is 
laid out with gravel walks and abounds with trees. It is 
an exceedingly beautiful place, and adds very much to the 
pleasantness of a permanent residence in Boston. 

U 



294 EASTERX TOUR. 

In commerce and navigation Boston ranks as the second 
city in the Union, standing next to New- York, and pos- 
sessing a tonnage, which, taking both registered and en- 
rolled vessels, amounted in 1842, to 193,502 tons; and in 
1843, to 201,323 tons. But this is not all. An able and 
authentic article on the commerce of Boston, in the Mer- 
chant's Magazine, (N. Y.,) for May, 1844, shows that a 
heavy amount of the commerce of New- York is carried 
on in Boston vessels, and especially of the East India 
trade. 

The great line of steam packets, called the Cunard 
Line, runs between Boston and Liverpool, touching both 
ways at Halifax. Samuel Cunard of Liverpool, was the 
chief actor in establishing this line.. The steamers 
which compose it, have performed their passages, on an 
average of all, in 12^ days of running time each way; thus 
shortening the average tiftie of the sailing packets nearly 
one-half; or, in other words, annihilating, for the purpose 
of practical intercourse, about half of the previous distance 
between America and Europe. 

Lines of Packets run regularly also, from Boston to all 
the other principal parts of the Union. The Middlesex 
Canal, the oldest in the United States, furnishes a con" 
venient boat navigation to the Merrimack, at Concord, N. 
H.; and by various railroads Boston now" enjoys a speedy 
communication by land, with the chief trading towns of 
New-England, and above all with Albany, and througb 
the canals and railroads of New- York, with the great 
lakes and the far west. 

The number of banks in Boston in 1833, was 24, hav- 
ing an aggregate capital of about $17,000,000; and 28 in- 
surance companies, wuth an aggregate capital of about 
$7,000,000. 

The total amount of capital employed in manufactures 



EASTERN TOUR. 295 

of various kinds in Boston, is stated at a little under three 
millions: but a far larger amount of Boston capital is in- 
vested in cotton and woollen manufactures in Lowell, 
Waltham, and other places. The capital employed in Bos- 
ton, in foreign trade, is stated at about $12,000,000. 

Boston has always been justly distinguished for the 
excellence and the number of its schools. Besides the nu- 
merous private seminaries of various kinds, there are, of 
the public, or free schools, a Latin grammar schoolj a 
high school, in which mathematics and the higher branch- 
es of a sound English education are efficiently taught; 10 
grammar and writing schools ,• 75 primary schools; and 
1 African school. These are all sustained by the public, 
throughout the year, at an annual cost of $200,000. 

The medical school is a branch of Harvard Uni\*ersity. 
but the professors reside in Boston, where the school, in 
point of fact, is located. It was established in 1782 ; it has 
six professors, a library of more than 5,000 volumes, is 
well attended, and has a high reputation. Other valuable 
institutions are the Athenoeuni, with one of the best li- 
braries in the country, contaning about 30,000 volumes. 

Principal Hotels in Boston. 

Albion Hotel, Tremont, cor. Beacon-street j American 
House. 42 Havover- street ; Bromfield House, Bromfield- 
street; City Hotel, Elm-street; City Tavern, Brattle- 
street; Commercial Coffee House, Milk, cor. Liberty-st.: 
Elm-Street Hotel, 9 Elm-street ; Exchange Coflee House, 
Devonshire-street ; Hanover House, 50 Hanover-street ; 
Marlborough Hotel, 229 Washington-street ; Maverick 
House, East-Boston; Merchant's Exchange Hotel, State- 
street ; Merrimack House, Friend, cor. Merrimack- street ; 
New-England House, Clinton-street ; Pavilion, 41 Tre- 
mont-street ; Tremont House, Tremont-street ; United 
States Hotel, cor. Lincoln, Beach and Kingston- streets. 



29^ EASTERN TOUR. 

THE VICINITY OF BOSTON. 

No place in the Union, probably, exceeds Boston, for 
the beauty and variety of the scenery of the surrounding 
country. Dorchester, Iloxbury, Brookline, Brighton, 
Cambridge, Charlestown and Chelsea, are among the 
points of attraction which cluster around the capital of 
New-England. Seaward, the beautiful bay expands on 
the east, embosoming several small islands, some of 
which are fortified, and serve as breakwaters to the im- 
portant harbor of Boston. 

Dorchester, first settled as early as 1630, is situated 
abou 44miles south of Boston. It is embellished with many 
fine country residences, which with the substantial farm- 
houses and well cultivated farms, give abundant evidence 
of prosperity and comfort. The population of the town 
in 1840, was 4,875. The peninsula, consisting of Dor- 
chester Neck and Dorchester Heights, borders on Boston 
harbor, and the Heights are included within the corpo- 
rate limits of the city, und^r the name of South Boston. 
In the night of March 4th, 1776, the army under Gen. 
Washington, threw up works on Dorchester Heights, 
which commanded the harbor, and compelled the British 
to evacuate Boston. 

RoxBURY, a point or two west of south from Boston, 
and through which passes the Boston and Providence 
Railroad, is a delightful place of residence. It is joined 
to the city by a neck of land, which constitutes a broad 
avenue, and may be regarded as a continuation of Wash- 
ington-street, Boston. The village at the centre of the 
town, contains 5 churches, 2 banks, and many beautiful 
dwelling houses. 

QuiNCY, 10 miles from Boston in a southerly direction, 
is distinguished for having furnished two Presidents of 



EASTERN TOUR. 297 

the United Stales. About half a mile northwest of the 
village is the mansion of the late John Adams, the im- 
mediate successor of Washington as President of the 
United States. His remains and those of his wife repose 
beneath the new church at Quincy. A handsome monu- 
ment has been here erected to their memory, by their 
son, John Quincy Adams, the sixth president of the 
United States. 

In the southwest part of this town are inexhaustible 
beds of granite, for the transportion of which, a rail- 
road runs from the quary to tide water, 3 miles in length. 
This was the first railroad made in the country. 

Brookline, 4 miles southwest of Boston, like all the 
towns in the vicinity, is in a high state of cultivation, and 
furnishes many elegant country seats for citizens tran- 
sacting business in the city. 

Brighton, 5 miles west of the city, through which 
passes the Boston and Worcester Railroad, was former- 
ly a part of Cambridge, and lies between that place and 
Brookline. Here is annually held the famous Cattle 
Fair and Mart, which was commenced during the revolu- 
tionary war, and has been increasing in importance ever 
since. Most of the cattle for the supply of the Boston 
market are brought in droves to this place. 

Cambridge, 3 miles northwest of Boston, is one of 
the ancient towns of New-England, having been first 
settled in 1631, under the name of Newtown. It is the 
seat of Harvard University, formerly called Harvard 
College, the oldest institution of the kind in the Union, 
having been founded in 1638, which was less than 20 
years after the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth. 
This institution is more richly endowed than any other 
college in the United States. It has a president and 27 
professors and other instructors, and usually numbers 



298 KASTEIilV TOLR. 

irom 4 to 500 students. The annual commencement is 
on the 4th Wednesday in August. 

In the town of Cambridge are three handsome villages, 
known as Old Cambridge, Cambridge-Port, and Kast 
Cambridge,- a court-house and jailj a state arsenal: 
5 churches, and several select schools. The population in 
1840, was 8,409. 

Mount Auburn, 5 miles from Boston, is situated in 
the town of Cambridge. Every traveller of taste should 
visit this cemetery. It is the Ptre la Chaise of this coun- 
try, and is located in one of the most delightful spots ever 
selected for the repose of the dead. The grounds are very 
extensive, comprising hill and dale, covered with trees 
and shrubbery of almost ever j^ kind. Theie are numerous 
avenues for carriages and paths for pedestrians, designa- 
ted by botanical names. The first interment was made 
in 1831 5 since then it has gradually been filling up, and 
ornamented by art, until it now presents a sacred and ro- 
mantic appearance. 

Charlestown, 1 mile north of Boston, is situated on 
a peninsula lying between Charles and Mystic rivers, and 
connected with Boston by Warren and Charles river 
bridges. The streets, though not laid out with great 
regularity, are many of them wide and ornamented with 
trees. The public buildings are a State Prison, conduct- 
ed on the most improved model ; the Massachusetts In- 
sane Hospital, called from a distinguished benefactor, 
the McLean Asylum ; an Alms-House ; town house, and 
9 churches. The United States Navy Yard at this place 
covers 60 acres of ground, and is an important naval de- 
pH. Here is a Dry Dock, built of hewn granite, of 
sufficient magnitude to take in the largest ships of war ; 
a marine hospital, an arsenal, a powder magazine, a 
pacious warehouse, and a house for the superintendent. 



EASTERN TOUR. 299 

ail of brick, and two immense wooden buildings, under 
which the largest ships are constructed. 

Breed's Hill, commonly called Bunker Hill, imme- 
diately in the rear of the town, is the spot where a 
bloody battle was fought at the commencement of the 
revolutionary struggle, June 17, 1775, in which the 
Americans lost in killed and wounded 449, and the British. 
1,055. Here fell the lamented Warren, the volunteer 
martyr in the first great battle that American principles 
waged against British tyranny. To commemorate this 
important event, a granite obelisk has been erected on 
the eminence, overlooking the Navy Yard and the harbor 
of Boston. It is 30 feet square at the base, 220 feet 
high,* and 15 feet square at the top, and is ascended 
within by a winding stair- case. Its estimated cost is 
about $100,000. 

Battle of Bunker Hill. 

^' The space allotted to this article will not permit a 
full detail of the thrilling events of the terrible conflict 
that ensued. The morning, on both sides, was spent in 
preparation ; the afternoon in battle and carnage. The 
British distinctly saw the Provincials gathering their 
■strength as if for a mighty effort ,• the Americans heard 
as distinctly the rattling of artillery carriages in Boston, 
and saw the various movements of the British troops in- 
dicating an attack. ' Now,' said Prescott, ' we shall 

* The Bunker Hill Monumant, although 220 feet high, is 32(' 
Teet below the level of the cross on St. Peter's Church at Rome ; 
140 lower than the cross on St. Paul's in London^ and 135 less 
than the Pantheon in Paris. It is IS feet higher ttian the Monu- 
)neat in Londouj SO feet higher than the column of the Place Ven- 
dome at Paris; 35 feet higher than the Washington Monument at 
flaltimore; 100 feet higher than Pompey's Pillar at A'exandria- 
and 80 feet higher than Trajan's Pillar at Pvome. 



300 EASTERN TOUR. 

have a fight ; we shall beat them too !' The fight, in 
due time, came on — the British are driven to their 
boats — they rally again with desperate courage — again 
they are forced to retreat. Better counsels governed them, 
on the third trial. The officers and men no longer de- 
spised their enemy. A dear-bought victory crowned their 
last effort. Such is the outline of this famed battle. To 
fill it up with a detail of all the events that took place 
would require a volume. We shall glance at one or two 
scenes. About three o'clock in the afternoon the prepa- 
rations for defence and attack were well nigh completed. 
The eight rods square redoubt, the breastwork and the 
rail fences constituted all the military works of the Pa' 
triots. Most of the original detachment, under Col. 
Prescott, were at the redoubt and breastwork. The 
New-Hampshire and Connecticut troops, under Stark, 
Reed and Knowlton, were at the rail fence. General 
Putnam on horseback, was animating the men wherever 
he deemed his presence required. General Pomeroy, 
glowing with military ardor, was at the rail fence. 
Gen. War.^en, to learn the art of war under a veteran, 
was in the redoubt. As the veteran officers — volunteers 
for this day — appeared along the lines, they were receiv- 
ed with enthusiastic shouts by the men. There was no 
glittering array of polished armor — no splendid proces- 
sion of gorgeous uniforms. The troops were in homely 
apparel, and with but little pretension to military disci- 
pline. But they were full of enthusiasm, firm and de- 
termined. 

''At a little distance, in full view, the long lines of 
British troops were preparing for the battle. Their scar- 
let dresses, the glow of the sun upon their burnished 
arms and brazen artillery, the precision of their move- 
ments — all made up a brilliant and imposing spectacle. 



EASTERN TOUR. 3ftl 

A fleet of armed vessels and floating batteries lay in the 
baj', from which, and from the forts in Boston, a eon- 
tinned cannonade was kept up. The scene of action wa& 
the middle of an amphitheatre of hills, second to none in 
the world for the beauty of its position and magnificent 
scenery. On these hills — on every house and steeple of 
the metropolis, the population of the country had been 
collecting, drawn to the spot by the sound of the cannon. 
The season was an uncommonly fine one^ and the spring 
had clothed the things of earth in their most beautiful 
array. The day was one of unusual serenity ; not a 
cloud obscured the horizon, hardly a wave ruffled the 
waters ; nature lay in silence and repose, reflecting from 
the harbor below, or the river near, the islands and ships 
that adorned their surface. ' Slendid phenomena! how- 
soon CO be defiled by stains of dust and blood! Fearful^ 
omnious silence ! how soon to be broken by shouts of rage 
and groans of agony ! ' 

*' An hour passed on. How changed the scene ! The 
cool provincials, a second time, are shouting the proud 
huzza of victory ; the brave troops of Howe a second 
time are retreating under the murderous fire of the Ameri- 
cans — a fire which, though it mowed down whole ranks 
together, they received with astonishing fortitude. Then, 
too, Charlestown was on fire j the conflagration was 
spreading from house to house, from street to street,, and 
ascending the lofty spire of the church steeple in a pyramid 
tjf flame high over the rest in awful sublimity. Then 
the noise of crackling fires and crashing edifices was 
blended with the shouts, the shrieks, the groans that 
make up the frightful clang of the battle field. The 
wreaths of smoke rolled over the American lines to the 
north, leaving to the determined warriors a full view of 
their flying enemy — and there they stood — that gallant 



SO^ EASTERN TOUR. 

band — filled with the heroism that ever supports mea 
when fighting for their wives, their children and their 
country. 

" Such is the nature of the scenes of the first and most 
important battle of the Revolution. It was the first time 
that American valor encountered British valor in mortal 
strife, it opened the^eyes of the defenders of the minis- 
try to the desperate struggle before them. Its influence, 
it might be shewn, was felt throughout the war that en- 
sued. The victory the British gained was a dear bought 
one I it cut down a large part of their army. On the side 
of the Americans the loss was severe, but nothing com- 
pared to that of the British. The valor of Prescott, the 
self-sacrificiug bravery of V."arren, the undaunted courage 
of Putnam — the names of Pomeroy, Stark, Knowlton, 
McCleary — all are knoAvn to every American. Their 
fame is part of the inheritance of the past. Let their 
memory be ever held sacred. And let the name of Bun- 
ker Hill ever be remembered as long as freemen thrill 
to the sound of freemen's deeds." 

Chelsea, 3 miles northeast of Boston, is connected 
with Charlestown by a bridge at the mouth of the Mystic 
river. Here are located several flourishing manufactur- 
ing establishments. A fine view of Boston, from this 
point, embellishes this work. 

East Boston, although separated from the peninsula 
on which the State House stands, is a part of Boston, and 
is described in connection with the city. 

Boston Hahbor, lying in the west of Massachusetts 
Bay, presents many points of attraction, although not 
equal to the Bay of New- York in beauty oi outline, the 
islands presenting a naked appearance from being wash- 
ed by the tide and waves dashing against their shores. 
Fort Independence is situated on an island at the outlet 
of Boston harbor, 3 miles from the city, and opposite to 



EASTERN TOUR. 803 

it is Governor's Island, containing a fortification erected 
during the last war. These two forts command the en- 
trance into the harbor of Boston. Seven or eight miles 
below is a light-house, at the northeast extremity of the 
channel, where vessels enter Massachusetts Bay, or the 
Atlantic Ocean. 

Nahant, 12 miles northeast from Boston by water, 
and 14 miles by railroad and stage, is a peninsala jutting 
out into Massachusetts Bay, connected with the main 
land by a delightful beach, or narrow isthmus of sand, 
so compact as not to receive the imprint of a horse's hoof, 
or of a carriage wheel, a mile and a half in length, and 
just high enough to prevent the waves from flowing over 
it. The peninsula consists of two parts, called Great 
Nahant and Little Nahant, connected by Bass Neck. 
Little Nahant, the inner portion, contains forty-two acres, 
a part of which is under good cultivation. Great Nahant, 
the outer portion, is two miles long, and in some places 
half a mile wide, containing 463 acres. The surface is 
uneven, rising from 50 to 100 feet above the level of the 
sea. The shores generally consist of precipitous blufis 
of ragged rock, rising from 20 to 50 feet above the tide, 
with a great depth of water below. In some places, 
however, are fine beaches well adapted for bathing. The 
roar of the ocean against the rocks, and the dashing and 
boiling of the waves is sometimes terrific. 

A spacious hotel, containing about 100 rooms, is erected 
near the east extremity of Nahant, on elevated ground, 
overlooking the ocean for many miles. There are other 
boarding houses in the vicinity, and about twenty beau- 
tiful cottages, the summer residences of families of for- 
tune. This place is much frequented both for health and 
pleasure during the warm season. A steamboat plies 



304 EASTERN TOUR. 

between Boston and Nahant, and stages run from Lynn, 
in connection with the cars on the Eastern Railroad. 

Among the strange visiters at Nahant, it was currently 
asserted that the Sea Serpent, often seen along the coast, 
here made his appearance for several successive seasons. 
This is very probable, as the great quantity offish found 
at this place would at any time furnish him a bountiful 
repast. 

In addition to the places already described in the Vici- 
nity of Boston, there are numerous other places worthy 
of visiting, more remote, but easily reached by land or 
water, by means of the various railroads, stages and 
steamboats, running to and from the city. 



Railroad Route from Boston to Concord, N. H. 

Via the Boston 4" Lowell, Nashau, <§• Concord Railroads. 

To Medford, 4 miles. 

South Woburn, 3 7 " 

Woburn, 3 10 " 

Wilmington, 5 15 " 

Richardson's, 4 19 " 

Billerica, 2 21 •' 

Lowell, 5 26 •' 

Middlesex, 2 28 " 

Chelmsford, 2 30 " 

Tyngsboro, 4 34 " 

Little's, 3 37 " 

Nashua, 4 41 '* 

Thornton's, 6 47 " 

Reed's Ferry, 4 51 " 

GoflF's Falls, 4 55 " 

Manchester, 4 59 '' 

Hookset, 8 67 " 

Concord, 9 76 " 

Passenger cars leave Boston and Concord three times 
daily, stopping at the intermediate stations. Usual fare 
through, $2.50; usual time 3 hours. The depot in Bos- 
ton is on Lowell-street. 



EASTERN TOUR. 305 

Passengers on leaving Boston, by railroad route, for 
Lowell, Nashua, or Concord, N. H., are conveyed over 
the, Boston and Lowell Railroad, a distance of 26 miles, 
in about one hour. This is one of the best constructed 
roads in the country — being finished with a double track, 
on which are laid 56 lb. T rails, throughout its whole 
length, and the cars run regularly up on one track, and 
down on the other. 

The number of miles run on this road by locomotive 
engines during the year 1842, was, 

With passenger trains, ... 78, 745 

Merchandize trains, 47, 463 

Miscellaneous, 17, 399 

Total miles, 143,607 

The amount of profits divided during the same period' 
was $144,000, being 2 dividends of 4 per cent each on a 
capital of $1,800,000. 

At V/iLMiNGTON, 15 miles from Boston, diverges the 
Boston and Maine Railroad, furnishing a second continu- 
ous railroad communication between Boston and Portland, 
Maine, a distance, by this route, of 112 miles. 

The City of Lowell, 26 miles northwest from Boston, 
stands on the south side of the Merrimack river, below 
Pawtucket falls, and the junction of Concord river. This 
place dates its origin only 20 years back, and yet in 
wealth and numbers, it already ranks as the second city 
in Massachusetts. It is a remarkable place, and well 
deserves the name of "the Manchester of America." 

The water power at Lowell is very extensive and ea- 
sily available. It is furnished by a canal 60 feet wide, 8 
feet deep, and a mile and a half in length, commencing 
at the head of Pawtucket falls, which have a descent of 
about 30 feet. By locks at its outlet, it forms a boatable 
passage around the falls in the Merrimack. From the 



306 EASTERN TOUR. 

main canal, the water is carried by lateral canals to mills 
and .manufactories, where it is used, and is then discharg- 
ed into the river below. 

Many cities and villages^ in different parts of the 
Union have, in a few years, by the aid of water power, 
capital, enterprise and skill, sprung up from nothing, and 
grown with a vigor and rapidity that is truly surprising; 
but Lowell it is believed outstrips them all. In 1821, it 
was a rugged, barren spot, inhabited by only a few fa- 
milies. In 18£6 it was incorporated as a town, and in 
1836 it obtained the charter of a city. The population 
in 1830, was 6,474; in 1840, 20,796; showing an increase 
in ten years of 14,322. The assessors' valuation of pro- 
perty in 1840 was $12,400,000. 

The statistics of the condition of the Manufactories 
at Lowell, furnish facts that may be of interest: 

■' There are elevenregular Manufacturing Companies a^ 
Lowell, including the " locks and canals" or water pri- 
vilege company, which was incorporated in 1792, but did 
not commence operations until 1822, which may be re- 
garded as the year of the foundation of Lowell. The 
Merrimack Company commenced business the next year. 
and no other until 1824 In 1825, the Hamilton Compa-, 
ny started; in 1828, the Appleton and Lowell; in 1830, 
the Middlesex; in 1832, the Suffolk and Tremont; in 
1833, the Lawrence; in 1836, the Boott; and in 1840, the 
Massachusetts, being the last. These eleven companies 
employ an aggregate capital of $10,700,000, employing 
6,295 females and 2,345 males. Besides these there are 
in Lowell extensive Powder Mills, a Flannel Mill, Blan- 
ket Mill, Batting Mill, Foundry, Paper Mill, Bleaching, 
Cord and Whip Factory, Planing Machine, ReedMachine, 
Grist and Saw Mills, employing a capital of $500,000 
and 500 workmen, making the whole manufacturing ca- 



EASTERN TOUR. 37Q 

pital of Lowell $11,200,000, employing over 9,000 men, 
women and children. 

•' The ten principal Manufactories already designated 
have 33 Mills, beside print works; run 6,194 looms and 
201,070 spindles, producing 1,425,800 yards of cloth per 
week, or 74,141,600 during the year 1843. The cotton 
fabricated by them during the year was 22,880,000 lbs. 
Of Printed Cloths 273,000 yards per week are made by 
the Merimack and Hamilton companies. The Middlesex 
makes 9,000 yards cassimeres, and 1,800 yards of broad- 
cloth per week, beside 85,000 of cottons. Flannels are 
made at the Hamilton, sheetings and shirtings at nearly 
all, with drillings, printed cloths, &c., at several. The 
average wages paid to females is $1.75 per week beyond 
the cost of board; to males $2.20 per week; The pay- 
ments are all made in cash and amount to $150,000 per 
month. These are the statistics of the chief manufactu- 
ring town in America — a place which twenty years since, 
had not a " local habitation nor a name." 

Besides its manufacturing establishments, Lowell pes" 
sesses some fine public buildings. Mechanics' Hall, a 
costly brick edifice, was erected by the Mechanics' Asso- 
ciation, an incorporated institution owning a handsome li- 
brary and a fine mineralogical cabinet, which, together 
with a reading roem, is always open to the public. There 
are also other institutions, a great number of schools, 15 
churches, 2 banking houses, and a savings' bank; several 
well kept hotels', and about 200 stores of different kiniis. 

The Indian name of this place was Wamsit, the seat 
of a tribe of prayirig Indians, at the breaking out of 
Philip's war, in 1765. Its present name was given in 
honor of Francis C. Lowell of Boston, distinguished for 
successful efi'orts to introduce the cotton manufacture into 
the United States. 



-SOS EASTERN TOUR. 

Nashua, New Hampshire, 15 miles north of Lowell^ 
is situated on the west side of the Merrimack river, imme, 
diately north of the mouth of Nashua river. This place 
contains 8 churches, several public houses, 40 or 50 
stores, and many elegant dwellings. Here terminates 
the Nashua and Loioell Railroad and commences the 
Concord Railroad, which extends to 

Concord, distant 35 miles, which lies on the west side 
of the Merrimack river, where are two bridges. This is 
the capital of the state of New- Hampshire, and a place of 
<;onsiderable importance. The village contains about 
4,000 inhabitants, 200 dwelling houses, a State House, 
which is an elegant structure of hewn granitej a state 
prison, a solid structure also of granite; a court-house 
and jail, 6 churches, several hotels and taverns, and about 
40 stores. The falls in the Merrimack, and the locks at 
this place, create a vast water power, which is exten- 
sively used for manufacturing purposes. By means of 
artificial navigation for boats, effected by dams, locks and 
canals above Lowell, the Middlesex Canal below, and a 
railroad recently finished, a communication is formed 
with Boston, where the extensive trade of this section of 
country centres. 

From Concord a line of travel extends northeast to- 
ward the White Mountains, north to Littleton, until it 
intersects the upper valley of the Connecticut river, and 
northwest to Burlington, Vermont; connecting, at the 
latter place, with the line of travel, north to Montreal 
and south to Whitehall and Albany. For a table of dis- 
tances from Burlington to Concord, see page 277. 



EASTERN TOUR. 309 

Table of Distances from Concord to Mount Washington. 

To Meredith Bridge, 26 miles. 

Meredith Village, 9 35 '' 

Centre Harbor, , 4 39 " 

Moultonborough, 5 44 " 

Sandwich, 2 46 " 

Tamworth, 12 58 " 

Eaton...... 6 64 " 

Conway, 8 72 '• 

Bartlett, 10 82 " 

Notch, 12 94 '' 

Crawford House, 12 106 '' 

Summit of Mt. Washington,.. 9 115 *' 

The White Mountains of New Hampshire are situa- 
ted in the county of Coos, in the north part of the state? 
distant about 100 miles from Concord, in a northerly di- 
rection, and about the same distance from Portland, 
Maine. They are also approached by tourists from Bur- 
lington, via Montpelier and Littleton, and from Ports- 
mouth, N. H. The road from the latter place passing in 
the vicinity of several picturesque lakes, the largest of 
which is Winnepisiogee lake, on which runs a steam- 
boat from Alton to Centre Harbor, a distance of 20 miles. 

The route from Boston to Concord by railroad, and 
thence to the White Mountains by stage, is perhaps the 
most frequented in approaching this magnificent moun- 
tain region. 

The Portland route, since the completion of the rail- 
road to Boston, is another expeditious and charming 
journey — passing through several thriving villages on the 
seaboard, and from Portland proceeding by stage, in a 
north wdjt direction to the mountains. 

The different modes of conveyance and variety of 
routes, afford the traveller an opportunity of approach- 
ing this region by one road and returning by another — 
thus increasing the interest of the excursion. 

V 



310 EASTERN TOUR. 

'' The Indian name of these mountains, according to 
Dr. Belknap, was Agiocochook. An ancient tradition 
prevailed among the savages, that a deluge once over- 
spread the land, and destroyed every human being, ex- 
cept a single powovf and his wife, who sheltered them- 
selves in these elevated regions, and thus preserved the 
race from extermination. The fancy of the natives peo- 
pled this mountain with beings of a superior rank, who 
were invisible to the human eye, but sometimes indica- 
ted their presence by tempests, which they were believed 
to control with absolute authority. The savages, there- 
fore, never attempted to ascend the summit, deeming the 
attempt perilous, and success impossible. But they fre- 
quented the defiles and environs of the mountain, and of 
course propagated many extravagant descriptions of its 
appearance; declaring, among other things equally credi- 
ble, that they had seen carbuncles at immense heights, 
which, in the darkness of night, shone with the most 
4)riiliant and dazzling splendor. 

"These mountains are the highest in New-England: 
and, if we except the Rocky mountains, whose height has 
not yet been ascertained, they are the most lofiy of any 
in the United States. Their great elevation has always 
rendered them exceedingly interesting both to the abori- 
ginal inhabitants and to our ancestors. They were visit- 
ed by IVeal, Joceiyn, and Field, as early as 1632: they 
gave romantic accounts of their adventures, and of the 
extent and sublimity of the mountains. 

" Since that time this mountainous region ha^bcen re- 
peatedly explored by hunters and men of science. Their 
height has been a subject of much speculation; but from 
the best surveys, Mount Washington is 6,234 feet above 
the level of the sea. The following is the height of the 



EASTERN TOUR. 3ll 

principal mountains above Connecticut river at Lancas- 
ter, to wit: 

Mount Washington, 5, 850 feet. 

" Adams, 5,383 

" Jefferson, 5,281 

■' Madison, 5,039 

" Monroe, 4,932 

" Franklin, 4,470 

*' La Fayette, 4,339 

'^ The names here given are those generally appropri- 
ated to the different summits. Mount Washington is 
known by its superior elevation, and by its being the 
southern of the three highest peaks. Mount Adams is 
known by its sharp terminating peak, and being the sec- 
ond north of Washingtou. Jefferson is situated between 
these two. Madison is the eastern peak of the range. 
Monroe is the first to the south of Washington. Frank- 
lin is the second south and is known by its level surface. 
La Fayette is known by its conical shape, and being the 
third south of Washington. The ascent to the summits 
of these mountains, though fatiguing is not dangerous; 
and the visitant is richly rewarded for his labor and curi- 
osity. 

" Although these mountains are 65 miles distant from 
the ocean, their snow white summits are distinctly visi- 
ble, in good weather, more than 50 miles from shore. 
Their appearance at that distanceis thatof a silvery cloud 
skirting the horizon. 

" It would be vain in us to attempt a description of the 
varied winders which here astonish and delight the be- 
holder. To those who have visited these mountains, our 
descriptions would be tame and uninteresting; and he 
who has never ascended their hoary summits, cannot re- 
alize the extent and magnificence of the scene. These 
mountains are decidedly of primitive formation. No- 



312 EASTERN TOUR. 

thing of volcanic origin has ever yet been been discovered 
on the most diligent research. They have for ages, pro- 
bably, exhibited the same imvarying aspect. No mine- 
rals are here found of much rarity or value. The rock 
which most abounds, is schistus, intermixed with green- 
stone, mica, granite and gneiss. The three highestpeaks 
are composed entirely of fragments of rocks heaped to- 
gether in confusion, but pretty firmly fixed in their situa- 
tions. These rocks are an intermediate substance be- 
tween gneiss and micaceous schistus; they are excessively 
rough and coarse, and grey, almost black, with lichens. 
The mica in them is abundant, of difi'erent colors, red, 
black, and limpid, and though sometimes several inches 
in diameter, yet most often irregularly stratified. The 
granite contains emerald, tourmaline, of which are found 
some beautiful specimens, and garnets, besides its proper 
constituents. Crystals of quartz, pyrites, actinote, jas- 
per, porphyry, fiuate of lime, and magnetic iron ore, are 
sometimes obtained. 

"During nine or ten months of the year, the summits of 
the mountains are covered with snow and ice, giving them 
a bright and dazzling appearance. On every side are 
long and winding gulleys, deepening in their descent to 
the plains below. 

The Notch of the White Mountains, is a phrase appro- 
priated to a very narrow defile, extending two miles in 
length between two huge cliffs apparently rent asunder 
by some vast convulsion of nature: probably that of the 
deluge. The entrance of the chasm on the east side, is 
formed by two rocks standing perpendicular at the dis- 
tance of 22 feet from each other: one about 20 feet in 
height, the other about 12. The road from Lancaster to 
Portland passes through this notch, following the course 
of the head stream of the Saco. 



EASTERN TOUR. 313 

'* The scenery at this place is exceedingly beautiful 
and grand. The mountain, otherwise a continued range, 
is here cloven quite down to its base, opening a passage 
for the waters of the Saco. The gap is so narrow, that 
space has with diffi-culty been found for the road. About 
half a mile from the entrance of the chasm is seen a most 
beautiful cascade, issuing from a mountain on the right, 
a:bout 800 feet above the subjacent valley, and about 2 
miles distant. The stream passes over a series of rocks 
almost perpendicular, with a course so little broken as to 
preserve the appearance of an uniform current, and yet 
so far disturbed as to be perfectly white. This beautiful 
stream which passes down a stupendous precipice, is 
called by Dr. Dwight, the Silver Cascade. It is probably 
one of the most beautiful in the world. 

'' At the distance off of a mile from the entrance of the 
chasm is a brook, called the Flume, which falls from a 
height of 240 or 250 feet over three precipices — dov/nthe 
two first in a single current, and over the last in three, 
which unite again at the bottom in a small basin formed 
by the hand of nature in the rocks. The water is pure 
and transparent, and it would be impossible for a brook 
of its size to be modelled into more diversified or delight- 
ful forms." 

There are two or more bridle roads, leading from the 
hotels where travellers stop, to the summit of Mt. Wash- 
ington. The Crawford routehas been measured and found 
to be nine miles and twenty-six rods. The Fabyari route 
is nine miles one-quarter and thirty- seven rods, ascertain- 
ed by accurate measurement, made Aug. 12, 1843. 



314 eastern tour. 

Routes between Boston and Portland, Me. 

There are now three great lines of travel between Eos- 
ton and Portland. 

The first is by railroad route via the Boston and Maine 
Railroad, diverging from the Lowell Railroad at Wil- 
mington, and passing through Haverhill. Mass.j and Ex- 
eter and Dover, N. H, 

The second is by the Eastern Railroad, passing through 
Portsmouth and several other important places on the 
seaboard. This road and the former unite at South Ber- 
wick, 12 miles east of Portsmouth. 

The third is by steamboat through Massachusetts Bay, 
passing Cape Ann, and running down the Atlantic coast 
to Cape Elizabeth and Casco Bay, on which bay Port- 
land is situated. 



Railroad Route from Boston to Portland, via Boston and 
Maine Railroad. 

To Wilmington, 15 miles. 

Andover, 8 23 '' 

North Andover, 3 26 " 

Bradford, 5 31 '' 

Haverhill, 1 32 '*' 

Plaistow 5 37 '' 

East Kingston, 6 43 " 

Exeter, 49 " 

South New Market, 4 53 '' 

New Market; 4 57 " 

Durham, 4 61 '* 

Dover 5 66 " 

Somersworth, 3 69 '' 

Salmon Falls Village, 1 70 " 

South Berwick, junction East- 
ern Railroad, 3 73 " 

Portland, 39 112 " 



EASTERN TOUR. 315 

Railroad Route from Boston to Portland, by Eastern 

Railroad. 

To Lynn, 9 miles. 

Salebi, 5 14 " 

Beverly, 2 16 " 

Wenham, 4 20 " 

Ipswich, ....>'..... 5 25 " 

Rowley, 4 29 " 

Newburypokt, 5 34 " 

Salisbury, 2 36 '' 

Seabrook, 4 40 *' 

Hampton 4 44 *^ 

Greenland, 5 49 " 

Portsmouth, ,.. 5 54 " 

Kittery, Maine, 1 55 " 

South Berwick, 11 66 " 

North Berwick, 6 72 " 

Wells, 5 77 " 

Kennebunk, 5 82 '" 

Saco, 10 92 '' 

Scarboro', 8 100 " 

Portland, 5 105 " 

Cars on both these routes run through in five hours 

and fifteen minutes. 

Steamboat Route from Boston to Bangor, Me., via 

Portland. 

To Cape Ann, 32 miles. 

Mouth of Piscataqua river,. . . 30 62 " 

Hood Island, 26 88 " 

Portland, 17 105 " 

Thoraaston, 65 170 '' 

Belfast, 30 200 ''' 

Bucksport, 20 220 '• 

Frankfort, 10 230 *' 

Bangor,. 15 245 ■■ 

Passengers going over the ^osiora and Maine Railroad, 
on their route to Portland, leave Boston from the depot 
in Lowell-street, and are carried rapidly through a suc- 
cession of villages, and an interesting section of country, 
until they arrive at South Berwick, Maine, where the 



31G EASTERN TOUE.. 

country assumes rather a barren aspect, which is continu- 
ed until you approach Portland. 

Passengers on leaving Boston by the Eastern Railroad 
route, are carried by a steam ferry boat to East-Boston^ 
starting from near Lewis's Wharf. This is a well con- 
ducted line of travelj and the road being constructed in the 
most substantial manner, induces great speed as well as 
safety. The number of miles run on this Eastern Rail- 
road in 1842, which extends from Boston to Portsmouth,, 
N. H., was, 

With passenger trains, 139,715 

Merchandize trains, 28,460 

Total miles, 168,175 

The total number of passengers carried dming the 
same period, was, 431,260. 

Lynn, 9 miles from Boston, is the first stopping place 
after leaving the citj?", and the point where passengers 
take the stage for Nahant. This place has long been 
celebrated for the manufacture of ladies' shoes, of which 
it produces over 2.500,000 pairs annually. The village, 
which is scattered, contains 8 churches, 2 banks of dis- 
count, a savings bank, several public houses, and 30 or 
40 stores. 

The City of Salem, 14 miles from Boston, is an old and 
wealthy town. In 1840 it contained 15,032 inhabitants 
principally engaged in manufactures, commerce and na. 
vigation. It is a well built, pleasant, healthy place, dis- 
tinguished for its enterprise, and for its numerous and 
well managed institutions. Next to Plymouth it is the 
oldest town in the state, having been settled in 1628. 
It is chiefly built on a tongue of land formed by two 
inlets from the sea, called North and South rivers, over 
the former of which is a bridge, upwards of 1,500 feet 
long, connecting it with Beverly, and the latter forms the 



EASTERN TOUR. 317 

harbor. The harbor has good anchorage gronnd, but ves- 
sels drawing more than 12 or 14 feet of water must be 
partially unloaded before they can come to its wharves. 
The situation of Salem is low, but it is pleasant and 
healthy. It is well built, and latterly most of the houses 
which have been erected, are of brick, and many of them 
are tasteful and elegant. The compact part of Salem is 
about one and a half miles long, and half a mile wide. 
The streets are irregular, having been originally laid out 
v/ithout much regard to symmetry and beauty. In the 
southern part of the town there is an elegant public 
square or common, containing about 10 acres, surrounded 
by a handsome public walk, ornamented with rows of 
trees. An aqueduct supplies the city with an abundance 
of excellent spring water. Salem was long the second 
town in New England in wealth, commerce, and popula- 
tion; but Providence and Lowell now exceed it in popu- 
lation, and New Bedford in shipping. It was long dis- 
tinguished for its East India trade, by which it was great- 
ly enriched; but this branch of commerce, though still 
carried on, is less extensive than formerly. On a penin- 
sula below the town are Fort Pickering and Fort Lee; 
and on Baker's Island there is a light-house. The ton- 
nage of this port in 1840, was 37,020, 

Among the public buildings are a court-house, a jail, 
an alms house, a market house, an East India Marine 
Museum, and a Lyceum. It has 9 banks, with an ag- 
gregate capital of $2,000,000; 6 insurance companies, 
with a total capital of $950, 000; a marine insurance com- 
pany, and an institution for savings. There are ^two 
public libraries, an athenaeum containing 10,000 volumes, 
and a mechanics' library, containing 1,200 volumes. 
There are 16 churches — 4 Unitarian, 4 Congregational, 2 
Baptist, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Christian, 1 Roman 
Catholic, 1 Friends, and 1 Universalist. 



B18 EASTERN TOUR. 

Harmony Grove Cemetery, situated on the east side of 
North river, about one mile from the city, was laid out 
in 1840, and now presents a beautiful aspect, the grounds 
being admirably adapted and arranged for a burial place. 
Here are to be seen picturesque dells, shady lawns, and 
craggy rocks covered with moss grown trees, giving the 
place altogether a romantic appearance. 

Beverly, 2 miles from Salem, is connected with the 
latter place by a bridge 1,500 feet long. The village con- 
tains 4 churches, 1 bank, and 1 insurance company. The 
inhabitants are chiefly employed in commerce and the 
fisheries. 

Ipswich, 25 miles from Boston, is a port of entry. It 
contains a court-house and jail, 1 bank, 4 churches, a fe- 
male seminary of considerable celebrity, 2 public houses, 
and several stores. 

Newbtjrypobt, 34 miles from Boston, is one of the 
capitals of Essex county, and a port of entry, where are 
annually built a number of large vessels. It is beautifully 
situated on the south bank of the Merrimack river, near its 
entrance into the Atlantic. The streets are wide, intersect- 
ing each other at right angles. It contains a brick court* 
house and a stone jail, a custom house built of rough gran, 
ite, 8 churches, 3 banks, a savings bank, 3 insurance com- 
panies, an alms-house, a lyceum. several public houses, 
and about 100 stores. Here are owned numerous vessels 
employed in the cod, mackerel, and whale fisheries, giving 
employment to upwards of one thousand men. The har- 
bor is safe and spacious, but difficult of entrance. 

Portsmouth, N. H., 54 miles from Boston, 51 from 
Portland, Maine, and 45 from Concord, is the largest town 
and the only seaport in the state. It is advantageously 
situated on a peninsula on the south side of the Piscata- 
qua river, three miles from the ocean. The streets are 



EASTEHN TOUR. 3|9 

somewhat crooked, yet the houses are mostly well buiitj 
and some of them elegant. It has a fine harbor, with 40 
feet water in the channel at low tide, and is protected by 
islands and headlands from storms. The Piscataqua 
which here forms the boundary between the states of New 
Hampshire and Maine, is about half a mile wide, and the 
tide rising 10 feet, flows with so rapid a current as to 
keep the harbor free from ice. There are three or four 
fortified points at the mouth of the harbor: Fort Consti- 
tution is situated on Great Island, and Fort McClary in 
Kittery, on the north side of the harbor. 

On Continental or Navy Island, lying opposite Ports- 
mouth, within the bounds of Maine, is an extensive Navy 
Yard belonging to the U. States Government, which has 
every convenience for the construction of ships of war of 
the largest class. 

Portsmouth contains much wealth and has considerable 
trade, though its back country is rather limited, bein*^ 
situated about equi-distant between Boston and Portland 
much of the trade of the interior flows to those places. 
Among the public buildings are 8 churches, 6 banking 
?iouses, a court house, 2 market houses, an athenseum, an 
alms-house, and the State Lunatic Asylum; there are 
about 150 stores of diflferent kinds, and several hotels. 
Those of most note are the Rockingham House on State 
street; Mansion House, (temperance.) Congress-street- 
and Franklin House, Congress-street. 

On leaving Portsmouth, proceeding north, the railroad 
track crosses the Piscataqua river by means of a sub- 
stantial bridge, extending to Kittery, Maine; from thence 
the route extends 11 miles to 

South Berwick, where the Boston and Maine Rail- 
road, running through Dover, intersects the Portland, 
Saco and Portsmouth Railroad. Here the cars are usu- 



320 EASTERJf TOUR. 

ally detained a short time, in order to have the passen- 
gers transferred from the former road to the latter, which 
runs through to Portland, a further distance of 39 miles. 
Wells, 11 miles from South Berwick, lies a few miles 
east of the railroad. 

Kbnnebunk Depot, five miles further, is situated 
about 2 miles from the village. 

Saco, 38 miles from Portsmouth, and 13 from Port- 
land is a port of entry, situated on the northeast side of 
Saco river, 6 miles from the ocean. Here is a fall in the 
river of 42 feet, creating a great water pov/er, and pre- 
senting an interesting and beautiful view. There 
are numerous mills at this place and many hand- 
some dwellings. Immediately below the falls is a fine 
basin where vessels take in their cargoes. On the shore 
of the river below the village, there is a fine beach, 4 
miles long, within sight of the ocean, which affords a 
pleasant drive in warm weather. 

From Saco to Portland, a distance of 13 miles, the 
railroad passes over a level section of country, in part 
covered with a small growth of trees, and some meadow 
lands. On approaching Portland, the railroad extends 
over a bridge of considerable length, extending across 
an arm of the sea which in part forms the peninsula on 
which the city stands. The depot is about one mile from 
the centre of the town, passengers being usually carried 
to the hotels in carriages. 

The City of Portland, is very advantageously situa- 
ted on a peninsula at the western extremity of Casco 
bay. It is distant 105 miles from Boston ; 50 from Au- 
gusta, the capital of the State, and 545 from Washington. 
The city presents a beautiful appearance from the sea, 
and the islands in the bay, as it rises like an amphithea- 
tre between two hills. It is regularly laid out, and 
handsomely built, and has some fine public edifices, 



EASTERN TOUR. ^1 

among which are a spacious city hall, a court house and 
jail, and 16 churches; a custom-house, 6 hanks, a theatre, 
and an athenseum, containing a library of 4 or 5,000 
volumes. On an eminence called Mount Joy, on which 
Fort Sumner formerly stood, there is an observatory 82 
feet in height, being elevated 226 feet above the ocean, 
commanding a fine view of the harbor, and the adjacent 
country. Casco bay is seen lying to the east, studded 
with islands and rocky islets, said to amount to 365 in 
number, — on the north is a body of water called Back 
Cove, — the city is immediately on the south-west, and 
presents a splendid appearance in connection .with the 
harbor aad shipping, — Cape Elizabeth lies on the south, 
3 miles distant, where is located Cape Cottage, a much 
frequented public house and delightful place of resort 
during warm weather, — Fort Preble stands two miles 
southeast and commands the ship channel in connec- 
tion with Fort Scammel, situated on an island. Beyond 
it lies the broad Atlantic ocean, where during the 
fall months of September and October, numerous small 
vessels are seea engaged in taking mackerel. Mount 
IVashington, the highest peak of the White Hills of 
New-Hampshire, distant 90 miles, may be seen on a 
clear day by looking through the glass here used in the 
observatory, which is a large and excellent instrument of 
the kind. Few places exceed Portland in point of loca- 
tion, having an extensive back country. Its trade is large 
and important ; the principal articles of export are lum- 
ber, fish and country produce. The trade with the West 
Indies is very great, also with Boston and New- York, and 
southern ports. 

The Oxford Canal which extends to Sebago pond, 20 
miles northwest, affords 50 miles of inland navigation. 
An important road also diverges in the same direction, 



322 EASTERN TOUR. 

which enters New-Hampshire and extends across into 
Vermont. Over this road stages run three times a week 
to the White Mountains, distant 92 miles, connecting 
with lines of travel to Concord, and Burlington, Ver- 
mont. 

The principal Hotels in Portland are the American 
House, Congress-street; Casco Temperance House, Mid- 
dle-street; Elm Tavern, Federal- street; United States 
Hotel, corner Congress and Federal-streets; besides many 
others of less note in different parts of the city. 

Lines of Tkavel from Portland. 
Stages connecting v/ith the railroad cars from Boston, 
run twice daily from Portland to Augusta via Brunswick; 
thence daily to Bangor, Ellsworth and Eastport. 

A tri-weekly line of stages run from Portland to Au- 
gusta, via Lisbon and Winthrop — distance 60 miles. On 
the opposite days a stage runs through, via Gray, Lewis- 
ton and Winthrop, — intersecting with the Farmington and 
Buckfield stages. 

A daily line of stages run from Portland to Bath, via (, 
Brunswick, — thence on the shore road to Ellsworth and 
Eastport, — intersecting at Ellsworth the stages from Ban- 
gor. « 
Tri-weekly stages run from 

Portland to Paris, 40 miles ; 

" Water ford, 40 miles ; 

'* Dover, N. H., via Alfred, 56 miles; 

" White Mountains, 92 miles. 

A line of steamboats run from 
Portland to Boston, 105 miles; 

" Hallo well, 61 miles; » 

" Bangor, 140 miles. 



EA5.TEIIN TOUR. 323 

Stage Route from Portland to Bangor, via Augusta. 

MILES. 

To North Yarmouth, 12 

" Brunswick, 14 26 

'• Boardinham, 10 36 

''Richmond, 11 47 

" Gardiner, , 7 54 

" Augusta, 6 60 

" Vassalboro 12 72 

" China, 9 81 

'' Unity, 14 95 

" Dixmont, 12 107 

'* West Hamden, 11 118 

"■ Bangor,... 11 129 

Fare through $5.50 — Usual time 20 hours. 

Stages run twice daily from Portland to Augusta, via 

Brunswick — connecting with railroad cars at Portland, 

From Augusta stages run to Bangor and other places. 

Stages twice a week leave Augusta for Quebec, running 

over the Kennebec road, via Norridgewock. 

Stage Route from Portland to Easiport. 

MILES. 

Falmouth, 7 

North Yarmouth, 5 12 

Freeport, , 6 18 

Brunswick, 9 27 

Bath, (Kennebec river,) 7 34 

WiSCASSET, 15 49 

Waldoboro', 18 67 

Warren, 9 76 

Thomaston, 4 80 

Camden, 11 91 

Belfast, 18 109 

Castine, (across Penobscot bay,) 9 118 

Bluehill, 10 128 

Ellsworth, 14 142 

Franklin, ]2 154 

Cherryfield, 20 174 

Columbia, 12 186 

Machias, 15 201 

Whiting, 14 215 

Eastport, 15 230 



324 EASTERN TOUR. 

♦ 

This route extends along near the coast of Maine, 
which is deeply indented with numerous inlets or bays, 
filled with islands and rocky islets, often presenting a 
truly grand and romantic appearance. 

Eastport, lies on an island in Passamaquoddy bay, 
into which empties the St, Croix River, forming the 
eastern boundary of the United Slates. 

Augusta, 60 miles northeast of Portland, is situated 
on both sides of the Kennebec river, 43 miles from the 
ocean, at the head of sloop navigation. This is the capi- 
tal of the State of Maine, and is a beautiful place. The 
State House is constructed of white granite, and stands 
on a commanding eminence, half a mile south of the vil- 
lage. The population in 184u, was 5,314. It is regular- 
ly laid out, the ground rising on each side of the river, 
and a fine bridge extends across the Kennebec, 520 feet 
long, connecting the two parts of the town- 

The principal hotels are the Augusta House, and the 
Mansion House; there are also several others of less note. 

Below Augusta, on the Kennebec river, are Hallo- 
well, Gardiner and Bath, at all of which steamboats 
stop on their trips to and from Portland. 

The City of Baxgor, 129 miles from Portland in a 
northeast direction, and distant 245 miles from Boston, 
is the easternmost place of note in the United States. 
It is situated on the west side of Penobscot river, 60 miles 
from the ocean, at the head of steamboat navigation. 
The tide here rises 17 feet, and is of itself sufficient to 
float vessels of a large class. The principal article of 
trade is lumber, which com_es down the river in immense 
quantities, from a fertile region of country., 

The city occupies a pleasant and commanding situa- 
tion. The buildings for the most part are not only neat, 
but many of them elegant. Steamboats ply regularly 



EASTERN TOUR, 325 

between Bangor and Portland, and Boston, for about eight 
months in the year, when the river is free from ice. The 
population in 1840, was 8,627, and is rapidly increasing. 
The principal hotels are the Bangor House, the Franklin 
House, and the Penobscot Exchange, 

Below Bangor on the Penobscot river, are Frankfort, 
BucKSPORT, Belfast and Thomaston; at all of which 
steamboats l^nd and receive passengers on their trips to 
and from Portland and Boston, 

On leaving Portland for Boston, the traveller has the 
choice of three lines of travel — by steamboat, or by rail- 
road through Portsmouth, or over the upper railroad 
through Dover. The latter, although a few miles further, 
is usually run over in the same time, and passes through 
an interesting section of country. 



LINES OF TRAVEL BETWEEN BOSTON AND 
NEW-YORK, 

There are three great lines of travel between the above 
5)laces. The most direct is by way of Providence, pass- 
ing over the Boston and Providence Railroad, 42 miles 
in length. From thence passengers are conveyed by rail- 
road to Stonington, Conn., and take a steamboat for New- 
York, or take a steamboat at Providence, stopping at 
Newport to land and receive passengers. Either of the 
above routes are desirable and speedy modes of convey- 
ance. 

At Mansfield, 24 miles from Boston, a branch railroad 
diverges south to Taunton, 11 miles — from thence the 
New-Bedford and Taunton Railroad, extends to New- 
Bedford, a further distance of 20 miles. 

The City of Providence, the semi-capital of Rhode- 
island, in connection with Newport, is situated at the 
iiead of Narraganset bay, on the west side of Sekonk or 

W 



326 EASTERN TOUR. 

Providence river. 35 miles from the ocean, and 182 miles 
from the city of New-York. This is the second city in 
New-England in point of population and trade. Vessels of 
900 tons come up to its wharves, and it has long been 
successfully engaged in a trade with the West Indies and 
China, Packets also run direct to most of the ports in 
the Union. The population in 1840, was, 23,171, many 
of whom are engaged in commerce and manufacturing 
pursuits. Among the public buildings are the State 
House, several churches, which for specimens of archi- 
tecture may be ranked among the finest buildings of the 
kind in the country ; the Arcade, extending between two 
streets, with a fine Doric portico on each, and Brown 
University, occupying a commanding situation, has two 
large brick edifices, 4 stories high; this is an old estab- 
lished institution of learning, having been originally es- 
tablished in Warren, in 1764, and was removed to Provi- 
dence in 1770 ; it has a president, and 8 professors and 
instructors. Here is a State Prison, lately erected, and a 
new Theatre ; the Athenseum, founded in 1836, has a 
handsome granite building, and a library of 7,000 volumes. 
It has 21 banks, with an aggregate capital of eight millions 
of dollars, and 3 insui-ance companies. The Blackstone 
Canal, extending from Worcester, Mass., terminates here; 
also, the Boston and Providence Railroad, which consti- 
tutes one of the great links in the line of travel between 
the cities of New- York and Boston ; the latter place be- 
ing 42 miles distant. 

Providence was settled in 1636, by Roger Williams, 
and others, who fled from Massachusetts on account of 
their religious opinions, and who early adopted in this 
place the principles of universal toleration. 

Newport, situated on the southwest side of Rhode 
Island, 5 miles from the ocean, has one of the finest bar- 



EASTEllN TOUR. 327 

bors in the world, being safe, and easily accessible by 
ships of the largest class. The harbor, which is of a 
semi- circular form, spreads westward before the town ; 
it is defended by Fort Adams, situated on Goat Is- 
land, ^ miles below the town, which is garrisoned by 
several companies of XJ. S. troops. Fort Greene,^ built 
during the late war, has been suffered to go to decay; it 
was at the northern extremity of the town. This place 
appears to great advantage as it is approached from the 
water, the ground rising in a beautiful and gentle accli- 
vity, shows the buildings to much advantage. The plea- 
santness of its situation, and the healthfulness of its cli- 
mate, its fine views, and its cooling ocean breezes, have 
rendered it a favorite summer resort to the most fashion- 
able class of inhabitants of the northern and southern 
states. It contains a state house, market house, theatre, 
a public library containing over 8,000 volumes, 3 acade- 
mies, 6 banks, and 12 churches of different denomina- 
tions ; 1.200 dwelling houses, and 8 or 9,000 inhabitants. 
The accommodations for visitors are ample and of a good 
character, affording every inducement to the invalid and 
seeker of pleasure to make this place a summer resi- 
dence. 

Stonington, 89 miles from Boston, and 135 miles 
from New- York, by water, is situated on a point of la;id 
which projects half a mile into the east end of Long- Is- 
land Sound, and has a good harbor, protected by a break- 
water, constructed by the United States Government. It 
contains about 1,000 inhabitants, many of whom are en- 
gaged in navigation ; here being owned several vessels 
engaged in the whaling business. The Providence and 
Stonington Railroad extends from this place to Provi- 
dence, a distance of 47 miles. A line of steamboats of 
the first class run daily between this place and the city of 
New- York. 



328 eastern tour. 

Worcester and Norwich Eotjte. 

The route between Boston and New- York, via Wor- 
cester and Norwich, Conn., is a favorite line of travel. 
The cars pass over 110 miles of railroad through an in- 
teresting section of country, -until they reach Allen's 
Point, 7 miles below Norwich. Here there is a suffi- 
cient depth of water for the steamers at all tides, which 
run to the city of New- York. For a description of Wor- 
cester see page 287. 

Norwich is situated at the head of navigation on 
Thames river, 13 miles north of New-London, and dis- 
tant 103 miles from Boston. The site is singularly ro- 
mantic, on the steep declivity of a high hill, which causes 
the streets to rise above each other like terraces The 
city contains a court-house and jail, a town-hall, 4 banks, 
2 insurance companies, 7 churches, several public houses,^ 
80 or 90 stores, and 4,200 inhabitants. 

In the immediate vicinity of this place are several in- 
teresting localities. At the junction of the Yantic with 
the Shetucket rivers, which united take the name of 
Thames, is situated a romantic cataract, affording a fine 
site for mills and manufactories. The village around it 
is called Yanticville. From a high projecting rock,, 
which overhang these falls, it is said the Mohegan In- 
dians formerly plunged to destruction, rather than fall 
into the hands of the Narragansetts who were pursuing 
them. In the rocks which form the bed of the stream at 
this point, will often be found circular perpendicular 
holes, five or six feet deep, evidently formed by stones 
whirled round within them by the force of the water. 
These holes are so regular as to appear like a work of 
art, and are a curiosity. 

New-London, is situated on the west side of the Thames 
river, 3 miles from its entrance into Long-Island Sound. 



EASTERN TOUR. 329 

and is distant 120 miles from the city of New- York. 
This harbor is one of the best in the United States ; it 
has a depth of 30 feet, and is spacious and safe. Fort 
Trumbull, situated on a projecting point, about one mile 
below the city, defends the approach to the town together 
with Fort Griswold, on the east side of the river. 

The county courts are alternately held at this place and 
Norwich. It contains a court-house and jail, 5 churches, 
3 banks, 2 insurance companies, 40 stores, and several 
public houses. In the rear of the city the ground rises 
to a considerable height, and from its summit presents a 
fine view of the harbor and the surrounding country. 

This is the only place at which the steamboat stops, 
running in connection with the railroad cars on the Nor- 
wich and Worcester Railroad route ,• total distance from 
Boston to New- York, 236 miles. 

Spkingfield and Hartford Route. 

This is destined to be a favorite line of travel between 
the cities oi Boston and New- York, passing through the 
most interesting portions of the states of Massachusetts and 
Connecticut. The route to Springfield is described in a 
previous part of this volume. At the distahce of 98 miles 
from Boston by railroad, the line of travel diverges down 
the beautiful valley of the Connecticut. 25 miles to the 
city of Hartford. A railroad is now in the course of 
construction between Springtfeld and Hartford, which 
when finished will furnish a line of railroads from Bos- 
ton to New-Haven, a distance of 161 miles, thence by 
steamboat to the city of New-York, a total distance of 
241 miles by this route. For a description of Springfield, 
see page 284. 

The City of Hartford, the semi-capital of the state, 
is handsomely situated on the west side of the Connec- 
ticut river, 50 miles from its mouth, at the head of sloop. 



330 EASTERN TOUR. 

navigation. The compact part of the city is more than a 
mile in length, and three-fourths of a mile wide, and con- 
tained in 1840, a population of 9,46S. Among the pub- 
lic buildings and institutions, is the state house, a spa- 
cious and handsome edifice ; the city hall is a large build- 
ing of the Doric order of architecture ; Washington Col- 
lege is situated on elevated ground in the western part of 
the city, where are two large edifices ; it was founded in 
1824, and has a president, and 8 other professors or in- 
structors. It is under the direction of the Episcopalians, 
and is in a flourishing condition. The commencement is 
on the first Thursday of August. The American Asy- 
lum, for the instruction of the deaf and dumb, was the 
first establishment of the kind in the United States. The 
Retreat for the Insane, is situated on a commanding emi. 
nence south of the state-house, and was opened in 18.24. 
The Atheneum, is a new edifice of the Gothic order of 
architecture, and accommodates the Young Men's Insti- 
tute, Historical Society, and Gallery of Paintings. There 
are in the city 12 churches ,; 5 banks, and a bank for sav- 
ings ; 3 fire and marine insurance companies ; an arsenal; 
a museum, and 2 markets. The principal hotels are the 
City Hotel, Main-street, and the United States Hotel, 
State-street, besides several others of less note. 

Hartford is well situated, and is no doubt destined to in- 
crease in commercial importance ,• Connecticut river has 
been made navigable for boats 220 miles, to the mouth of 
Wells river, at Newbury, Vt.; opening an extensive and 
rich country to it on the north, while it enjoys facilities 
of sloop navigation into Long Island Sound, and the 
railroad in progress of construction to Springfield, when 
finished, will much benefit this place by connecting it 
with the great line of travel east and west. Steamboats 
• of a small class can navigate the river for many miles 
above Hartford. 



EASTERN TOUR. 331 

The City of New Haven", the semi-capital of Connecti. 
cut with Hartford, distant 38 miles by railroad route, 
lies round the head of a bay which sets up four miles 
from Long Island Sound. The city is situated on a beau- 
tiful plain, with a slight inclination toward the water, 
and skirted in other directions by an amphitheatre of hills, 
two of which consist of bold rocky eminences, called 
East and West Rock, which presents fronts nearly per- 
pendicular from 300 to 370 feet high. Two small rivers 
discharge their waters into the bay on either side of the 
town ; West river on the west, and Quinnipac on the east. 
The city extends about 3 miles from e. to w. and 2 
from s, to N. It is laid out with great regularity, and 
consists of 2 parts, the old town and the new township. 

The harbor of New-Haven is safe but shallow, and 
gradually filling up with mud. It has about 7 feet of 
water on the bar at low tide, and the common tides rise 
to 6 feet, and the spring tides about 7 or 8 feet. Long 
wharf is 3,943 feet in length, the longest in the United 
States, At present its foreign trade is chiefly with the 
West Indies, The tonnage of the port in 1840, was 11,- 
500, A line of steamboats connects this city with New- 
York, and also several lines of packets. The Farming - 
ton canal connects this place with Northampton, Mass, 
-and Connecticut river near it ; and a railroad connects it 
with Hartford. The town contains 20 houses of public 
worship, viz : 9 Congregational, 3 Methodist, 3 Episco- 
pal, 1 Baptist, 1 Catholic, 2 colored Methodist, 1 color- 
ed Congregational. There are also a customhouse, an. 
almshouse, a jail, a museum, 3 banks, and a saving in- 
stitution; various benevolent societies, the Young Men's 
Institute, and an institution for popular lectures, with 
one of the best selected libraries in the Union. The 
State Hospital, founded in 1832, is half a mile southwest 



332 EASTERN TOUR. 

from the centre of tlie city, and has a fine edifice with 
a colonnade. But the most important public institution 
ih the city is Yale College, one of the oldest and most 
extensive institutions of the kind in the United States. 
Without large funds, it has accomplished great things. 
It was founded in 1701, originally at Killingworth. It 
was removed to Saybrook in 1707, and to New Haven 
in 1717. There are 4 college halls, 100 feet long by 40 
wide, 4 stories high, containing 32 rooms each for stu- 
dents ; and north of these is another hall devoted to the 
use of the theological students ; there is a chapel, in 
which is one story appropriated to religious worship, and 
one to the college library ; and two other buildings, called 
the Athenaeum, and the Lyceum, appropriated to recita- 
tion and lecture rooms, rooms for the professors, and for 
the libraries of the literary societies. These are all of 
brick ,• and the buildings intermediate between the college 
halls, have neat cupolas ; one of which is after the model 
of the Temple of the Winds, fitted up for the use of a 
splendid telescope. In the rear of these is another range 
of buildings, consisting of the chemical laboratory; the 
commons hall in the second story, of which is a spacious 
apartment devoted to the most splendid mineralogical 
cabinet in the United States, containing more than 16,000 
specimens, many of them rare ; and a stone building 
stuccoed, and containing a splendid collection of paintings 
by the late Col. Trumbull and others. A short distance 
from these are the buildings devoted to the law and medical 
departments, the latter of which has an anatomical mu- 
seum and library. Yale College has more students, 
and has educated more men than any other college in the 
country. In 1841, the officers were 30 in number. Of 
these, besides the president, 17 were professors, and the 
remainder were tutors or subordinate officers; 15 are con- 



EASTERN TOUR. 333 

nected with the college proper. The whole number of 
students of all descriptions was 550. Of these 410 were 
undergraduates ; 59 theological students ; 31 law ; 47 
medical ; and 3 resident graduates. The whole number 
of graduates is over 5,000, of whom nearly 1^400 were 
ministers. The number of volumes in the various libra- 
ries is 33,000; among which are many old and rare, as 
well as many splendid modern works. The commence- 
ment is on the third Wednesday of August. 

New Haven was first settled in 1638, by a colony un- 
der Theophilus Eaton, the first governor, and John Da- 
venport, the first minister, whom Cotton Mather de- 
nominated the ''Moses and Aaron" of the settlement. 
In 1665, this colony was united by a royal charter to 
Connecticut. In 1784, New Haven was chartered as a 
city. In July, 1779, the city was invaded and plundered 
by about 3,000 British troops from New-York, under 
Generals Tryon and Garth, after a feeble opposition on 
the part of the inhabitants. 



RAILROADS IN NEW-ENGLxlND. 

Finished or in Progress of Construction — 1843. 



Name. 

Bangor and Orono, 

Portland, Saco, & Ports- 
mouth, 

Eastern, 

Marbleliead Branch, 

Boston and Lowell, 

Nashua and Lowell, 

Concord, 

Boston and Maine, 

Great Falls Branch, 

Boston and Providence,- • 

Dedham Branch, 

Taunton Branch, 

New Bedford and Taunton 
Providence & Stonington, 

Quincy, 

Fitchburg,* 

Boston and Worcester, •• 
Norwich and Worcester, • 
Extension, do. 

Western, • 

West-Stockbridge, 

Berkshire, 

Housatonic, 

New-Haven & Hartford, • 
Hartford and Springfield* 



From. 



To. 



Bangor, • 



Orono, 



Portland, ♦•'•••• iPortsmouth,- 

Portsmouth, •••[Boston, 

Eastern RailroadjMarblehead,' 

Boston, Lowell, 

Lowell, iNashua, 



Nashua, Concord, 

Wilmington, S. Berwick, M. 

B. ^.M.^Railroad G. F. Village,- 

Boston, Providence, •• 

B. &P. Railroad, Dedham," 

Mansfield, Taunton, 

Taunton, New-Bedford,- 

Providence, Stonington,- •• 

Quincyj Neponset river 

Boston, Fitchburg, 

Boston, Worcester, •-• 

Worcester, Norwich, 

Norwich, Allen's Point,- 

Worcesier, N. Y. S. Line, - 

N. Y. State Line, W.Stockbri'ge 
W. Stockbridge,- Conn. St. Line, 
Conn. State Line, jBridgeport,- •- j 

New Haven, Hartford, 

jHartford, Springfield,- •- 



Total miles. 



Miles. 
11 

51 

54 

'26 
15 
35 

59 

3 
43 

2 
11 
20 
47 

54 
44 
59 

7 
117 

2-h 
23i 
75 
38 
25 

827 



I.a progress of construction. 



HOTELS. 

The following list of Hotels is added for the informa^ 
tion of Travellers, having been omitted in the body of 
the work: 

Principal Hotels in Syracuse. 

(See description of Syracuse, page 140.) 

American Temperance House, Farmers' Exchange, 
Franklin House, Mansion House, Syracuse House. 

Principal Hotels in Auburn. 

(See description of Auburn, page 151.) 

American Hotel, Auburn House, Western Exchange. 

Principal Hotels in Geneva. 

(See description of Geneva, page 161.) 

Franklin House, Geneva Hotel, Railroad House, Tem- 
perance House. 

Principal Hotels in Rochester. 

(See description of Rochester, page 166.) 

American Hotel, Clinton Hotel, Eagle Hotel, Ex- 
change Hotel, Mansion House, Morton House, North 
American Hotel, Rochester House, United States Hotel. 

Principal Hotels in Lockport. 

(See description of Lockport, page 172.) 

American Temperance House, Eagle Tavern Lock- 
port House. 



336 HOTELS. 

Principal Hotels in Buffalo. 
(See description of Buffalo, page 178.) 
American Hotel, Farmers' Hotel, Huff's Hotel, Man- 
sion House, Pollard Temperance House, United States 
Hotel, Western Hotel. 

Principal Hotels in Montreal. 
(See description of Montreal, page 234.) 
Exchange Hotel, St. Paul-street j Orr's Hotel, Notre 
.Dame-street 5 Ottawa House, McGill-street ; Rosco's 
Hotel, St. Paul-street; Sword's Hotel. 

Principal Hotels in Quebec 

(See description of Quebec, page 247.) 

Albion Hotel, Palace- street, Upper Town ; Payne's Ho- 
tel, St. Anne-street, do.j Ottawa House, Lower Town ; 
St. Lawrence Hotel, do. 



TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC. 



J. DISTURNELL, 

DEALER IN 

sa^5?^y (a^aa>a 3<^(^SQ5> 

statistical Works, &c. &c., 

NO. 102 BROADWAY, BETWEEN PINE AND WALL STREETS; 
NEW-YORK; 
Keeps a full assortment of the above articles, together 
with a collection of ENGRAVINGS, illustrative of Ame- 
rican Scenery — all of w^hich v^^ill be sold on reasonable 
terms at wholesale or retail. 



Citizens and Strangers are invited to call and exa- 
mine his assortment of Maps, Guide Books, &e., before 
leaving the city on excursions of pleasure, or travels for 
health or business, as they can be furnished with publi- 
cations relating to every section of the United States, Ca- 
nada, Texas, Mexico, Guatemala, the West Indies, South 
America, Europe, Asia, and Africa — embracing every 
part of the Civilized World. 



N. B.— The PICTURESQUE TOURIST, being a 
Guide through the Northern and Eastern States, 
and Canada, together with other publications of J. D.'s, 
useful to travellers, can be obtained at most of the Book- 
stores in the United States and Canada. 

New- York, June, 1844. 



J. DISTURNELL, 

No. 102 BROADWAY,: MEW-YORK, 

HAS RECENTLY PUBLISHED 

1. A New Township Map of the State of New-York ; 
showing the boundaries of Counties and Townships; the 
location of Cities and Villages, &c. By J. Calvin Smith. 
Engraved on steel. Price, (Pocket Form,) $0 75 

Do. on RolSers, 1 5^ 

2. Gazetteer oe the State of New-York ; comprising 
its Topography, Geology, Mineralogical Resources, Civi] 
Divisions, Canals, Railroads, and Public Institutions, to- 
gether with General Statistics; Accompanied by a ne^^ 
Township Map of the State. Price, $2 0( 

Do. without the Map, ■ 1 o( 

3. The New -York State Guide; containing an Alphabeti 
cal List of Counties, Towns, Cities, Villages, Post Offices, 
&c., with Census of 1840. Price, with State Map, $1 0( 

Do. without the Map, 2^ 

4. The New- York Political Manual; containing the. 
Official Election Returns for 1840-42, and the Census of 1840 
—together with other useful information. Price,. $0 25 

6. The New-York State Register for 1843-4. Edited 
by O. L. HoUey. Price, $1 50 

6. The Northern Traveller; containing the Hudson 
River Guide, and Tour to the Springs, Lake George and 
Canada, passing through Lake Champlain; with 2 Maps. 
Price, $0 50 

1. The Western Traveller; embracing the Canal and 
Railroad Routes, from Albany and Troy to BufiTalo and 
Niagara Falls. Also the Steamboat Route from Bufialo 
to Detroit and Chicago. Price, $0 50 

8. The Picturesqe Tourist; being a Guide through the 
Northern and Eastern States and Canada. Edited by O. L. 
Holley. With Maps and Illustrarions. Price, .... $1 50 

N . B .—A liberal discount will be made to the Trade. — 
Orders solicited for all kinds of Maps and Geographical 
Works, and supplied on the most reasonable terms . 

New -York, June, 1844. 



C 310 88 



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